What's up everyone! I just picked up a 93 vfr750f with 18k miles for $700 bucks.
The owner misrepresented it a good bit. Clutch is not engaging, engine won't turn over (I put in in 2nd and tried to rotate it from the rear wheel), carbs are dirty, airbox was removed and the tray that connects the airbox to the carbs doesn't want to go back on. It hits the brass nozzles and doesn't want to get past them. All the insulator bands appear to be missing except one he handed me. Many bolts and screws missing. Every fairing is cracked somewhere. No battery.
He said it's been sitting for 3 years because one day it wouldn't start anymore and he thought it was an electrical issue. Said the receiver started smoking last time he tried to start it. He bought a new one but never tried to start it again.
I actually like the bike more than I thought I would. I only looked at it to used the wheels, swingarm, forks, and brakes on a 1980 cb750 I rebuilt last year.
My plan now is to see if I can get it running. If I can I want to do a tail swap with a cbr600rr and replace all the fairings maybe with an Airtech kit.
This would only be my second build. Third time cleaning carbs.
I sprayed some wd40 down past the butterflies through the carbs in hopes I can get the engine free. If that doesn't work I try spray it into the spark plug holes in case the rims are rusted to the cylinders.
Looking for opinions, thoughts, experience with a vfr in this condition.
Is it even worth fixing? I'm not worried about the $700 if the engine is shot I feel like the running gear is worth that much and it would look awesome on my CB. But at the same time I've always been interested in the vfrs and doing the custom work on this would be sweet!
Quick update it does have the insulator bands I just didn't know where to look. I pulled the carbs and am cleaning them now. There was a fair amount of dirt and grit in there.
I also pulled the clutch mc and found it full of sludge. That's going to need to be rebuilt or replaced. Not sure how easy it is to find a good one.
Rice Welcome aboard. Did it come with a clean title? The engine - open the cap on the clutch cover, make sure its in neutral, spray cylinders through the spark holes and try to turn with a wrench. It could be a fun project. Enjoy!
Thanks I wasn't sure where to hand crank from I'll give that a shot!
phparray Thanks I wasn't sure where to hand crank from I'll give that a shot!
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Oh yes it did come with a clean title too. Good news the engine is free it's turning over no problem with a wrench. Maybe it won't be so bad after all. Carbs are almost done. Just have to deal with the clutch and toss in a battery I think.
Stator had continuity on all 3 wires. Not too sure about the rectifier. My meter was giving me numbers that matched the shop manual. I got numbers between 030 and 570. The manual say .5 and 10.
I thinking an easier way to test is to check voltage while revving. I read if the voltage should be between 14 and 16.5. bad unit can make it low or as high as 30v.
Carbs weren't terrible but had grit in them and a little oxidation. I've seen a lot worse. I broke the down and cleaned them well. Never can trust carbs on a bike that hasn't started in awhile. [image: a2f8449dd6831483e1023ee17db01278.jpg]
Ordered all the missing screws and stuff for the air box from hondapartshouse. Also got a new air filter, oil filter, spark plugs, and a alternator cover gasket since mine broke pulling the cover off, or it was already broken.
Ordered a battery for a 2010 cbr600rr since I plan to swap the tail with that model. Also found a good used clutch MC on ebay.
After today I'm thinking this thing will run again without too much more trouble. Won't know until all my parts come in. All together that was another $200ish invested. Those screws are expensive at $2.95 each. Wish the previous owner had not lost them. That's what happens when you take something apart and never put it back together I guess.
I really don't like the modeled turn signals. Anyone try to cut them out and fiber glass the holes closed then mount smaller signals? I'd love to see a pic. Thinking about getting RC30 bodywork but they had round head lights. Not sure if my lights would fit right. The fairing comes filled in so maybe it could be cut to fit, or maybe I could add fiberglass to mould them in. Hmmm decisions decisions.
I bought some JB weld pastic weld to try and glue some of the cracks back together. Maybe I can fix/modify the stock plastics instead of replacing them.
Welcome, Anything is worth fixing if it has value in your eyes, seems you're halfway there anyway. Good find, if you haven't had a V four before, careful, they're addictive.... Following with interest!
Reminds me of myself. Bought a non working bike thinking I could sell the parts if I cannot do anything with it. Finally engaged in a long a costly restoration ;-)
Good luck with this project and thanks for sharing your progress(es).
Thanks for all the support guys. Can anyone compare this pic to their gen 3? My buddy says these welds look hand done like someone repaired a crack. [image: bf12ce222344cf528700b8a5b00c23dd.jpg]
Screwed up and ordered a brake mc instead of the clutch. Tried using mine but no matter how many time I try to bleed the line using a vacuum pump there is always air in it. I have the clutch mc on the way, anyone need a good used brake mc? Or want a clutch mc that needs rebuilt?
All the other parts are here. I plan to get the carbs and airbox back in tomorrow.
Decided to work on the cb750 today instead. Pulled the engine using this new lift I got at harbor freight, this thing is awesome! Getting a big bore kit installed. Soon to be cb823.
Nice one!!, I picked up one exactly the same in red; same condition carbs looked exactly the same clutch MC looked identical to yours. after having to order the T junction on the carbs from Japan which took 4+ weeks to arrive I've just got fuel through the whole system again tonight but the battery I'm using to crank is on its last legs so it on charge until I can get enough juice in it to crank it over tomorrow, only thing is compression seems really good and struggles to fully crank. (Could be battery) will keep udated on your thread because it'll be handy to bounce comparisons off each other given the same condition they are both in. My original thread is here if you want to see how almost identical they are in condition
Lordy Nice one!!, I picked up one exactly the same in red; same condition carbs looked exactly the same clutch MC looked identical to yours. after having to order the T junction on the carbs from Japan which took 4+ weeks to arrive I've just got fuel through the whole system again tonight but the battery I'm using to crank is on its last legs so it on charge until I can get enough juice in it to crank it over tomorrow, only thing is compression seems really good and struggles to fully crank. (Could be battery) will keep udated on your thread because it'll be handy to bounce comparisons off each other given the same condition they are both in. My original thread is here if you want to see how almost identical they are in condition
I'll be happy to check it out. Good luck getting it started. I still haven't cranked mine over with the starter yet. Need to finish installing the carbs and airbox still. I'm also refinishing the alternator cover since I pulled it off to make sure the engine was free. Need to finish that and get the clutch working too.
I'll be happy to check it out. Good luck getting it started. I still haven't cranked mine over with the starter yet. Need to finish installing the carbs and airbox still. I'm also refinishing the alternator cover since I pulled it off to make sure the engine was free. Need to finish that and get the clutch working too.
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Seems like pretty standard stuff but what did was pulled the spark plugs put it in 6th gear put a small amount of 2 stroke oil down each cylinder and turned the back wheel quite a few times just get get the oil in the cylinders flowing through all the passages. My dip stick was completey dry because it was on the side stand for 3+ years there wasn't a drop of oil on the cylinder walls despite being brand new oil.
Also with the carb rebuild I too struggled to get the top plate back on because of the brass nipples I had to loosen the carbs on the mount that hold them all together so I could jig the around to get the plate on then tightened everything back up. I GoPro'd the whole disassembly/ rebuild I'm yet to edit and upload to YouTube (I'll do it one day soon when I'm not actually working on the bike)
Did you really need to pull the carb plate? Seems excessive to simply clean the bowls, etc.
In terms of fairing, the bike will look (in a word) crap with the RC30 fairing as you've got those big fins on the back end of the frame that meet the rear fairing. I'd just dig about for standard fairing that you're missing/have that are beyond repair and get it back to standard. The later 94-97 bike converts to an RC30 quite well as the frame is nigh on identical looking.
750 They can be so very pretty in standard fairing form...
Great looking bike. I didn't actually take the airbox to carb plate off. The previous owner did and never put it back together. I think that's the real reason it sat for so long. I did leave the carbs on the rack to clean them.
I may return to stock fairings. Mine are pretty busted up and the upper appears to have two mount point broken off and missing. The RC30 fairings look too small. I hear you need a smaller radiator to make it work. Plus what do you do with a headlight and cluster that is most likely is too high. I'm leaning toward stock or rvf fairings from the same year. Not to create clone but just to get a better looking fairing, imo.
I do have all of the stock plastics though. The sides don't look too terrible but it seems like every piece is cracked. I'd rather spend time fabricating/customizing than plastic welding. The back is just too boxy as well so a rear conversion is definitely happening.
If it wasn't in such rough shape I'd keep it stock.
Still no clutch after installing the used clutch mc. Decided to rebuild the slave cylinder. It was a mess. Had to use the air compressor to pop the piston out. Ordered a k&l rebuild kit. Hopefully that will do it.
JZH Clutch m/cs are very annoying to bleed when you're starting from dry. Brake m/cs are a lot easier. Are you sure you've not given up too early?
Ciao,
I don't think so but I've never done a hydraulic clutch before. Now when I open the bleeder and squeeze the clutch lever I get clean fluid coming out, and no air. With the bleeder closed I can feel the piston move just a little but pressure never builds enough to move it any more. Sucks that both my mc and the one from eBay didn't work. I ordered the rebuild kit and will try to fix mine. If that doesn't work I guess I'll replace the line too, waiting for parts is the worst. I should have started with rebuilding my mc instead or trying to replace it. Oh well.
My clutch is working! After rebuilding my original clutch mc it pumped up and is finally working! So after a lot of trouble and rebuilding both the mc and slave I finally have a clutch again. This means once it's running I can actually ride it! As a side note the vacuum pump didn't really work too well. I don't think I was getting a good enough seal on the bleeder. But I used it for a bit and finally got some pressure to start building. Then I closed the bleeder and worked the clutch lever back and forth. It continued to build pressure and I could feel where the clutch was getting depressed. Eventually I could feel the clutch was actuating through the lever's whole range of motion. To test it I put the bike in gear and was able to roll it around in gear with the clutch. Happy day! I do have an extra clutch and break mc I need to sell now.
Carbs and airbox back on. Man that was a pain to do. Getting those carbs seated in the boots is pretty horrible.
Also put in new spark plugs. Those front ones aren't much fun either. Front right plug looked new so I'm wondering if that coil is bad.
Tried to turn it over with the starter and no joy. No power coming out of the solenoid. The old owner gave me an extra one, not sure if that one works either, we shall see.
Just going to change the oil and fix put in a working solenoid before trying to start it.
First coat of primer is on the tank. I think I did pretty good fixing all the dents and dings. Using black primer but it will be white before it's done. [image: 67d63ffe0e8b9b27dd1f40428a2cb2bd.jpg]
I was hoping to get it started today but it didn't happen. I'm not getting fuel through the fuel pump. I'm suspicious of this fuel cut relay. I have power on 2 wires with the key and ignition on, at the relay but no power on the third. I'm not 100% sure what to test but I would think the third wire should be 12+ to the fuel pump. Can anyone confirm? A new oem relay is $48. [image: 6c62e7ff6dd1d3491d14832233edaaab.jpg]
Ran a wire from the battery to the fuel pump and it works but it seems too loud to me. Is it supposed to click, click, click like that. I had the fuel end running to a bucket so maybe it was just trying to build pressure and couldn't. It should turn off once the floats close and there is some back pressure right?
I tried testing by jumping from the blue wire at the fuel cut relay to the red wire but that didn't work even though there is 12volts with the ignition and run switch on. But when connected that drops to like 2 volts. What am I missing?
Thanks@Dutchy I jumped the wrong wire. Jumping blue to blue/black worked. I do have continued between the spark unit and red wire so the fuel cut relay is bad. Question can I just wire a standard relay in or do I really need they OEM relay?
Can't believe it. I just heard it start and run for a few seconds after swapping the rectifier. Only had a small amount of fuel in the bowls so I think it will run after I button up the last bits.
It's alive!!!! Little bit of white smoke and I think I saw a drop of oil. Probably still needs some work but after the new carb seals there's no more gas leak. Might even get through inspection.
Any suggestions on where to get the quick release blots for the side fairings? I need a few other misc fairing bolts. I saw a kit pretty cheap but they replace the quick turns with nuts and bolts, I'd rather have the quick turns. Only place I found them so far was in the UK. Might see if the local speed shop has any laying around they'd give me.
No more stickers! I'll paint the tank after I do some repairs on the fairing and assemble some form of a paint booth. That may take awhile. [image: 0da58b7b4dedb513354b7d387d9abbdd.jpg]
Picked up this 94 cbr900rr roller for parts. The tail on this has already been modified and I think the plastics are not for this year CBR. It looks like the 929 tail but with an undertail kit. It came with both seats too so that's pretty much everything for the tail swap on the vfr. The cbr suspension will go on my cb750. Not sure about the other cbr fairings. They are in tack for the most part.
The vfr is tagged now after passing inspection so I can do the modifications and not go back through for awhile.
I've found a lot of joy and feelings of accomplishment fixing up these old junkers. Something I wish I would have learned to do a long time ago. Better late than never though.
Me too, learned a long time ago, left off for too long.....now catchup time! Although full projects don't go very fast on a budget.....very satisfying indeed.
New tires and valve stems are on! This project is getting a little expensive.
Still debating what to do for fairings. Fit mine or replace. Gen 5 kits are easy to come by. How close is the gen 5 kit to the gen 3? I see the headlight is different how do the mounting holes line up? I only found one example of this online. I'd think it would be more common if it was easy.
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End of thread · 61 posts recoveredWayback Machine snapshot 9 Jul 2017