9 hours ago, Indiekixx
Geez.. I was planning on taking mine for service at Beaverton Bob's or Procaliber in Vancouver.... I haven't been impressed with either. What's with all the crap mechanics in this region?
OK, this is just my two cents. Keep in mind I got my 2015 in Spokane 3 days ago. I am a 70 year old guy who has been riding bikes and doing his own work on them (I am a govt licensed aircraft mechanic) for 50 years. I have a 2014 Yamaha FJR and a 2017 Suzuki XT 650, both with shim under bucket adjusters. I am not going to touch them. I just traded in my Honda 2010 NT 700V sport touring bike with 30k on it. It has screw adjusters but they arent especially fun to get to. Not bad...just not fun. I had the dealer check those at 600 miles for $300 and he said they were fine. I checked them the second time at 8k, and maybe tweeked one a bit. At 20k, since the euro boys were extending their checks, I did mine and no change. If I kept the bike, I wasnt going to check them again. The bike before that was a 2003. Kaw C10 with screw adjusters...they hardly ever changed at all.
Keep in mind that a screw adjuster is not a shim, obviously. but here is my take.
I have a 2006 Toyota Matrix (Corolla). I took it in for the 60k shim under bucket check. He says they would do it if I like but they never see them out of tolerance. They just dont do it.
And this is a huge dealer who has been in business a long time.
The Ford ecoboast engines have shim under bucket. No inspection interval.
My HOnda Vtec CRV , 2004, has screw adjusters. They get set every 105,000 miles. Mine were fine.
My take on all of this is when I carefully set the easy to get to screw adjusters on my Yamaha 650 twins/ Honda 350 Twins back in the 1970s,, they did change a bit but not much. Those were air cooled engines. Made with materials and techniques from the last century. My Yamaha 1980 XV920RH was air cooled but by then the setting didnt change much.
Then I got a 1983 Gold wing which has the easiest valves to set just about in the universe. Water cooled. They hardly ever changed. Metals and manufacturing were getting better all the time. I rode that sucker for 16 years.
I know nothing about how to get to the valve covers on the VFR, but if it were just wrench spinning to get to them, and take them off, AND if it were easy to get a feeler gage into the non-vtec valves, I might check them myself. If they were close, I would button it up and ride the bike and forget about it. If one cant do that, I am just going to ride it. I dont ride hard. I am 70 and I have three bikes. I wont put more than 4-5K on any one bike in a year anyway. I paid $8900 for the VFR. If it blows up when I am 76, oh well. I got exactly $1800 for my 2010 Honda NT700V. I am not gonna sink $800 into having some person I dont know beans about set my valves. Way too much room for error. If it makes you feel good, then pay the money and do it. I dont think it needs it. Yamaha wants me to change the plugs on the FJR at 10,000. Nobody does that on the FJR forum. That's crazy. And many dont do their valves either.
Show me the piles of dead 21st century gently used bikes that didnt have their valves checked at 16,000. 😄
Yey old Spokane Coyote headed soon for the Reno National Air Races for two weeks on his FJR with the ORIGINAL PLUGS. Oh the horror....
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