Rescuing a '91 VFR750F

Hello all, great forum, first post!

Inspired my damionj's post on his 1992 model (thanks man), I decided I should contribute and put up a post on my 91 since I also got it from someone who also basically said "just take it".  This bike also was not the worst bike I've seen, its a great 10 footer, it just needs a lots of love and work to get it back on the road again.  My buddy bought it at auction I'm thinking about 8 years ago and never did anything with it, I think he might have rode it once, then it remained in the back of a garage behind 3 Harleys, a quad and probably a couple of tractors.  He told me several times he was not riding it because the petcock leaked, I tried to help him suggesting we rebuild the petcock or eliminate it and put an inline one in, still the bike just sat and sat and sat some more.  Finally one day he was like "come get it, Happy Birthday" (it was close to my birthday), so I did.  Here it is back at my house.  He knew I would do the right thing with it because I have worked on Japanese bikes for 35+ years.  Thanks Bro!!

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I will tell you, if it wasn't a red Honda V4 motorcycle I would have taken a pass, I really didn't need another motorcycle.  But I REALLY like red Honda V4s.  Here is a pic or two of my 1996 ST1100, best bike I have ever owned, 102,000 miles on her (bought it with 16k miles), rides and turns corners like a dream.

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As I said, I really like the color....so much so I bought a 1998 Jeep last year in what I have always called "Honda red".

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Other bikes currently owned include a ZRX1100, a Kawazuki 434 and the SV650 which is my wife's.

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Now onto the VFR!  The bike has 36k miles on it, did not run when I got it.  It's a nice complete bike with from what I have seen from tearing into it, not too many ham-fisted mechanics have had their hands on it (thank goodness), but there has definitely been some racer guy action going on.  Note the Brembo brakes and Yoshi pipe, also take a look at this.  First pic of airbox lid.....I think the person couldn't decide if it was rich or lean :-).  The second pic is the heat shield between the fan/radiator and the intake/carbs, I'm guessing they were trying to get more air to the carbs, but it would just be hot air (hence it being a heat shield). Oh and the tank bra....that was the second thing I took off right after the fork leg covers (hate both of those things).  Also the PAIR system was disabled but not removed, bolts or electrical tape to cap off hoses.  With all that said, the rest of the bike is in good unmolested condition, I can and have fixed all of this already.

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Other immediately noticed issues included an overfilled crankcase (all oil, no gas)....first pic shows the oil I drained out with the correct amount in the left jug and the "extra" in the right.  The second pic is of course some crudded up carbs....this is exactly how I found them with one of them clean the others dirty with I'm not sure what, the crud turns too powder when you rub it between your fingers.  More on the carbs later.  Finally a bone dry gas tank with rust :-(.

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With all that said, I love the bike.  I mean its a Honda and I really like the brand.  The VFR is a completely uncomplicated version of my ST and I like that.  The ST has a 16 valve V4 with gear-driven cams, sounds awesome.  It also has ABS, traction control, anti-dive fork and linked braking.  Oh and a driveshaft and gear box.  The VFR is like working on a Jeep to me as compared to working on the wife's Suburban or my Subaru.  The VFR is just so simple compared to the ST, a much racier version.

Here is the immediate list of things the bike needed just to be a bike:

* tires

* battery

* gas tank rust repair

* new petcock and fuel lines

* new voltage regulator/rectifier

* carb cleaning and parts

Add to all that the things it needs to be safe and me actually ride it:

* inspect, flush and bleed brakes and clutch, replace as necessary

* replace sprockets and chain

* inspect wheel bearings front and rear

* inspect suspension and headset bearings

I have probably 30 more pictures I can post of the restoration efforts I am making on this VFR (we all like pictures, right?), for now I will just put up one more of how the bike looks today, 5 months after I got it (only been working on it for about 2 months, very part time).

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Short story is that I have completed a lot of stuff already (not just stuff on the list above), have run the engine twice with a remote gas tank, changed oil, adjusted valves, gone completely through the brakes.  Inspected and cleaned bike front to back (mostly).  The major list of things left to do include:

* mount and balance tires

* synchronize carbs

* repair gas tank

* finish fuel system lines

* inspect wiring and install new R/R

* install sprockets and chain

Well if you made it this far thanks for reading.  I will follow up with more details of the repairs to this VFR soon and as I get it back on the road where it should be!

The plan is to keep it pretty much the way it is now, keeping the Brembo calipers and full-floating rotors, keeping the Yoshi, keep the rest of the bike as stock as possible.  Definitely want to go completely through the front and rear suspension, upgrade and tune for my weight and riding style.  I'm in no hurry, just working on the bike as I have spare time and want to hang out in the garage.

-mtnpat

Good read, sounds like you’re having a good time 

Before you abandon the OEM petcock you might want to try soaking the 3 way O ring in Wintergreen solution, there may be a rebuild kit for it

NRP in the UK sells rebuild kits.  You have to drill out the rivets, tap and fit screws--easy job.  If you have enough o-rings in different sizes, you don't need the kit, but the measuring's done and the material is correct.

The rusty tank is a bit worrying.  Might be easier to just buy a clean one.  

Otherwise, looks like a great restoration project!

Ciao,

JZH

Thanks for the interest guys and the replies about the petcock issue.  As it turns out I am missing parts from the stock petcock so I made the decision to just use it as a place to attach the fuel line to the tank, but not use it to shut off the fuel.  I found what I hope is an inline petcock that fits nicely and I believe based on my measurements will provide enough fuel flow.

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And since the stock 29 year old fuel lines were hard as a rock and cut or broken (and not available anymore), they had to be replaced with something else.  I went back and forth on whether to use a Tygon style clear hose or an automotive OEM style rubber hose.  I ended up going with the rubber style because I have had hit and miss success with Tygon hose in various colors.  I think I am finished mocking up the new petcock to pump and from pump to carbs lines and I think it will work out nicely, just need to get some more clamps of the style I like and also protect the fuel line as it goes inside the frame and secure things.  The curved piece of hose where it does a 180 and connects to the petcock is part of one of those molded cut-it-yourself hoses in 5/16" ID.

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I will be doing a comparative flow rate test from a)direct from petcock on the tank, and b)from the outlet of the inline petcock.  The fluid path changes from a 7mm ID right at the tank petcock, to ~6-6.5mm as it goes through the petcock.  With a fuel pump I don't think this will be an issue.  I want adequate fuel flow though so am checking.  Unfortunately I don't have a complete stock petcock to test, only the one I have with all the guts and internal tank filters gone.

Oh and for the rusty gas tank....I'm hoping it isn't too far gone and can be saved, the outside of the tank is in very nice condition.  I have 6 gallons of distilled white vinegar, gonna fill tank and see what happens.

After the vinegar treatment have a look at the electrolysis videos on YouTube for the final cleaning 

Great story; keep up the hard work to get this one back on the road !

Dazed, please elaborate (copy link?) to what you refer on the "electrolysis videos" and how do they apply to rusty tanks?

Thanks.

Brian

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As I mentioned previously, since bringing the bike home and working on it I have run the engine twice, and it sounded good!  Started right up with choke, idles nicely off choke.  Carbs need syncing but I was impressed with how well it revved before being synced.  To get here though before ever trying to fire the bike, I did first check and adjust valves, clean and re-jet the carbs.  The exterior of the carbs were not bad, the internals were only visibly dirty in the float bowls (floats, jets, needles & seats).  I also did a compression check which was all good, adequate pressure and all 4 cylinders were within 10% of each other.

Carbs were found to have all stock jet sizes, 130 mains and 40 pilots, aftermarket needles with the front two carbs set different than the back two as far as needle clip position.  Float levels were good on 3 out of 4, had to adjust 1.  Pilot screws were all over the place, all 4 set differently.  The float needles were not worth saving but the seats were ok.  I bought four new size 132 mains, four new 40 pilots also, float needles, pilot screw o-rings and bowl gaskets.  I went with the 132 mains as a starting point  because I have yet to own a Japanese bike that was not lean with the factory settings so I will start with the 132s.  All four needles were set the same at the third clip position as a start and the pilot screws all set to 2 turns out.  So all four carbs set exactly the same.

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The aforementioned carb heat shield was replaced with a piece of kydex the exact same thickness.  This part is also not available new from Honda and all of the used ones I found were for a different generation and not the same.  I did not do an exhaustive search, after looking at it long enough I figured I would just replace it.

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Luckily new valve cover gaskets and rubber washers ARE available from Honda because I did not like the condition of the ones on the bike when I removed the valve covers to check valve clearances.  All valve clearances were checked and only 1 out of 16 was out of spec and only by 1 thou.  I ended up adjusting 2 intake valves bringing them both back close to middle of spec.  I didn't have the size valve shims I needed so I also ordered those from Honda.  I prefer purchasing from Honda or other Japanese bike manufacturers because you can get the shims in .025 increments instead of .050 from aftermarket companies, this allows for setting clearances more precisely.

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Also since not knowing anything about the condition of the engine when getting the bike, I also cut open the oil filter to check for anything metal or shimmery looking, nothing found which is good!  From the start my plan was to not put more money into the bike than absolutely necessary until I knew more about the condition.  Even though the bike didn't cost me anything I could tell immediately that it would take $1000+ to get it back on the road and I did not want to say go buying tires if the engine is in bad condition.  As it sits right now I am moving forward with fixing or getting everything back in good shape with the exception of any suspension upgrades, I first want to ride the bike and more fully check out the engine and gear box.

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 More on things like wheels, tires, brakes and drive chain later.

Thumbs, 11/17/2020 at 7:24 AM

After the vinegar treatment have a look at the electrolysis videos on YouTube for the final cleaning 

Thanks for that suggestion, I will definitely take a look.  This is a project for me and more cool things like this to check and do makes it fun.

While talking about carburetion I should probably mention that I closed up those holes that were drilled in the air box lid with some Gorilla tape on the inside (love that stuff!) and some black electrical tape on the outside just for looks.  I really don't understand why you would drill holes here anyway because from what I am seeing the tank and tank insulation fit snugly on top of the air box, not exactly an area to freely get more air to the carbs (which were probably lean anyway, but I can only guess, now that I think about it I really don't want to know).  Anyway, here are some pics!

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Also important to being able to test and tune your air-fuel ratio is to not have vacuum leaks :-).  The PAIR system was disabled but not removed with some really sketchy work to block everything off.  I removed everything, put proper rubber nipples on intake runner ports, also cylinder head block off plates were added.

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Finally, while talking about carbs we should probably talk about the throttle cables.  You want to make sure they move freely and smooth.  I used my cable oiler to add some silicone spray lube into and through the cables.  Also cleaned up was the throttle tube to handlebar interface.  Everything is working nicely now.

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mtnpat, 11/17/2020 at 1:10 PM

The aforementioned carb heat shield was replaced with a piece of kydex the exact same thickness.

Is kydex the material they use on original heat shields? It looks like good stuff to have around. Apparently it can be shape molded and used for all sorts of things. Best of all for me...it's inexpensive!

Have you figured out why half the air intake was taped?

I'm having fun looking at your progress. Your bike came with some of the opposite issues that mine had. And it's good catching up. Thanks for posting.

Gebruiker, 11/21/2020 at 4:40 PM

Is kydex the material they use on original heat shields? It looks like good stuff to have around. Apparently it can be shape molded and used for all sorts of things. Best of all for me...it's inexpensive!

Have you figured out why half the air intake was taped?

I'm having fun looking at your progress. Your bike came with some of the opposite issues that mine had. And it's good catching up. Thanks for posting.

Hello Gebruiker,

Thanks for the kind words.  I'm not sure what type of plastic was used for the original heat shield but I think the Kydex brand of plastic I used is a more modern composite.  Kydex is super strong, drill-able, easy to shape and one of the key features is that it is easily heat molded.  It is used to make modern (non leather) pistol holsters and knife sheaths.

As far as the intake, I would guess someone was doing some tuning.  It is not unreasonable that if you want to check and see if you are running lean to block off part of the intake and see if a more rich fuel mixture is what is needed, I just think their execution was poor, doubt it did anything.  I'm running wide open snorkel !!

One of the things on my list for this new to me bike was to CLEAN it, I only own one other full-fairing bike and I forgot how dirty the frame and components get under all of that body work.  When working on things I tend to clean as I go, but then you make a clean spot and end up spending the next 3 hours with a rag and some cleaner and sore the next day.  I knew the VFR was easy to work on, just unclip the fuel filter and the entire rear fender assembly comes out with 4 bolts.....(makes cleaning easier).  A lot of the work was cleaning up old chain grease while changing to new sprockets and chain.  Ended up taking the shifter and side stand assemblies off the bike to clean them because they needed a more serious degreasing.  Bike is pretty clean now.  Will just need to clean, wax and polish the plastics and tank when that all goes back together.

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Am I imagining things or did you put a clip master link on your new DID chain? 🤔

It sortof looks like it from your pictures. No judgement from me. But some folks think a riveted link is the only way to go.

And your buddy will be wanting the bike back when he sees the job you've done. How did you polish up the aluminum bits of the frame?

Lookin' GOOD !!

10 hours ago, Gebruiker

Am I imagining things or did you put a clip master link on your new DID chain? 🤔

It sortof looks like it from your pictures. No judgement from me. But some folks think a riveted link is the only way to go.

And your buddy will be wanting the bike back when he sees the job you've done. How did you polish up the aluminum bits of the frame?

Indeed - that is a DID CHAIN 520 VX3 CLIP TYPE MASTER LINK.  When I took that pic I noticed that the black master link really stood out and instead of rotating the chain I left it as is to see who was paying attention - good job.  I feel that a properly installed side plate and clip style is just as secure as riveting, it is a very positive fastener.  I can only go by my personal experience, but in 35+ years of using them on everything from old school dirt bikes, KTM trail monsters, assorted 400-1000cc street bikes, I have never had an issue.  If you think about it there is not a large side load on the link and again that steel clip is very secure.  I would love to hear others experiences.

For raw aluminum there is nothing better than Mothers.

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Brakes only slow you down!

So this bike was bought at auction with no contact with the previous owner, so what you see is what you get.  This bike came with the stock front brakes minus the master cylinder and lever assembly in a box.

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Instead it had a set of Brembo 320mm rotors and Goldline calipers with matching axial master cylinder installed.  The lever feel when I got the bike was horrible, very short and firm, seemed like it would not provide good feel or modulation.  Good thing I wasn't planning to just ride it.  I flushed the system then removed the calipers from the fork to make it easier to inspect their condition and operation.  Turns out other than a lot of brake dust they were in good shape.  Pads were good, just needed grooves cleaned out, all the fastening hardware cleaned and everything put back together.  I also gently pushed the pistons back in the calipers about 1/4" just to see if they would move freely and they did.  Put everything back on the bike, flushed and bled system and now the lever feel is quite good!  I like it.  I also sanded and painted the brake fluid reservoir cup lid because it was in bad shape from fluid leakage.  It does appear to seal correctly and is not leaking, I think it was just some lazy sloppy mechanic behavior.  I will watch for any leaks when I ride the bike but I already bought one of those sweat band looking covers.

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One of the interesting parts of this bike for me is the full-floating rotors, this is new to me.  These calipers are not floating so the rotors have to be.  When I first pushed the bike around the driveway to load it on the trailer I thought there was something broken in the fork because when I would hit the front brake I could hear something loose, I thought it was a spring issue.  Turns out it was the rotors and this is normal.  The rotor design looks the same as my other bikes, the ZRX for example,

but that bike has floating calipers and non-floating rotors, the same two piece connected with buttons design though.

Here is the ZRX, non floating and 6 buttons:

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And the Brembo's, floating, 12 buttons:

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When you grab these rotors you can move them with your hand.  Anyway, pretty cool I guess, supposed to be lower drag and full race.

Here is good video showing the results of the two types of systems - 

The rear brakes are all stock and in good enough condition for a couple of test rides.  I did go through them the same as the front,  cleaned them, inspected condition and flushed and bled the fluid. I can see a new rear rotor and a set of pads in the future.

Looking real good!  Nice work.

Been riding, racing, building motorcycles for over 35 years.  NEVER had a master link clip fail.  I used to safety wire and put a smear of black silicone to keep the Tech Inspectors happy.  On o-ring chains, MANY people can't set up the chain the right way to accept the clip properly.  So lawyers got involved and chains no longer ship with them.

I have had to keep an eye on some dirt bike chains that move thru a guide and rub the sides, as the nylon and dirt and water will start to put a knife edge on after a while.

I've seen some BUTCHERED rivets too.  Some people just shouldn't work on their bikes, regardless how long they have been "learning".

Anyway, nice progress.

1 hour ago, Captain 80s

Looking real good!  Nice work.

Been riding, racing, building motorcycles for over 35 years.  NEVER had a master link clip fail.  I used to safety wire and put a smear of black silicone to keep the Tech Inspectors happy.  On o-ring chains, MANY people can't set up the chain the right way to accept the clip properly.  So lawyers got involved and chains no longer ship with them.

I have had to keep an eye on some dirt bike chains that move thru a guide and rub the sides, as the nylon and dirt and water will start to put a knife edge on after a while.

I've seen some BUTCHERED rivets too.  Some people just shouldn't work on their bikes, regardless how long they have been "learning".

Anyway, nice progress.

Thanks Captain, I appreciate the input and feedback.

I know a lot of people think riveting a master link is the only safe way to secure the side plate but I don't think so.  With either you still have to press on the side plate and as you said not everyone has the skill to rivet with the proper security and tension.....you can end up with a too loose or too tight link if not done correctly.  The clip reduces that variable.

And I have seen the same thing on dirt bikes where a chain guide or other rubbing can wear down the edges of a clip, should keep an eye on those.  That's why we do maintenance.

4 hours ago, Smack

Lookin' GOOD !!

Thanks Smack !

Using a small press where the posts that accept the clip can pass into, I over compress the link a touch to ensure the clip groove is fully exposed.  I have an old-school chain breaker that I can then clamp on and push the link back thru, pressuring the installed clip slightly into the face of the chain link plate.  Not going anywhere.

21 hours ago, mtnpat

I feel that a properly installed side plate and clip style is just as secure as riveting, it is a very positive fastener

I can't comment one way or the other. My experience is like yours. I've never had a clip master link fail on a bike, but I've only ever used them on smaller bikes. And they sure are convenient. It seems to me one of the more experienced, not to say um courageous? VFRd members, Dutchy, once took a bike from the Netherlands to Sweden(?) without even the clip installed on his chain and lived to tell the tale. But I may not be remembering the story quite right... 😁

If DID is even selling a clip link for its chains, then they must have some faith that kind of design security. 

Also, Mother's Aluminum polish. Got it. Thanks. I'll look for it next time I'm in a polishing mood. 

While replacing front sprocket I noticed the tell tale signs of a leaking clutch slave cylinder so decided to just go ahead and order rebuild parts.

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Here's what improper maintenance service intervals looks like.

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It's all fixed now, had to use some 600 grit paper and penetrating fluid to clean up the inside of the slave cylinder bore but it was salvageable.  I bought a K&L slave piston and rebuild kit with all the rubber parts.

Now onto inspecting the clutch plates because in the garage, not running, the bike has a pretty sticky clutch.  From initial visible inspection with the side cover off it looks like it is disengaging correctly.

20 hours ago, mtnpat

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That looks familiar...I got mine in about the same condition. I never figured out why that spring was necessary since it seemed to me that the pressure from the fluid would be sufficient to keep the piston in position.

FYI, sight glasses are available through the V4dreams website https://v4dreams.com/products.html  If yours are also like mine, they're a pretty amber color. And not so great for actually reading the fluid levels. Just another thing to consider while you have the thing apart.

Removed right side case cover and inspected clutch.....and the gasket did not tear!  Stayed 100% stuck to the engine side so I am expecting I won't need a new gasket.

Anyway, on some of my other bikes (can't remember which), you measure the complete stack of fiber and metal disks to determine wear.  On the VFR you just measure the individual fibers.  All were in spec, as were the springs.

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I think that catches me up to where I am today.  High level list of things left to do to the bike:

• install new K&L fuel pump just received
• install the new FH022AA regulator/rectifier I received from Jack Flemming
• install new Yuasa battery
• install auxiliary power cord off of battery
• replace neutral switch
• clean gas tank and install
• repack Yoshimura muffler
• sync carbs
• mount and balance new tires
• repaint lower valance / body panels

And I'm still looking for a stock looking windscreen.  I ordered an ebay special but never received it, requesting a refund.

Thanks for looking!  Stay tuned.

mtnpat, 12/1/2020 at 9:40 PM

repack Yoshimura muffler

I'm appreciating all your reports. If you can, please document your yosh repack. Mine has been not all that quiet since forever and I'd had it in my head to do this messy job.

I'd also found cheap packing at places that sell pottery ovens. Presumably(?) it's just as good as the official pricier stuff. Not sure about that. And now that I've said that, I'm not getting the vibe that you are trying to cut costs...I think Yoshimura will sell you packing too.

23 hours ago, Gebruiker

I'm appreciating all your reports. If you can, please document your yosh repack. Mine has been not all that quiet since forever and I'd had it in my head to do this messy job.

I'd also found cheap packing at places that sell pottery ovens. Presumably(?) it's just as good as the official pricier stuff. Not sure about that. And now that I've said that, I'm not getting the vibe that you are trying to cut costs...I think Yoshimura will sell you packing too.

I bought the “Elephant Brand Muff Pack Muffler Repacking Kit, Up to 15" Long Mufflers”.  It is a triple layer system starting with some screen, then steel wool and finally traditional muffler packing material. It was $30. 
 

I’ll post some pics when I tear into it.
 

Of the 8 screws (4 on each end) holding everything together, I already checked and 7 of the 8 came loose, 1 I will have to drill out or more likely cut a slot in with my Dremel for a large flat blade screwdriver. 
 

As with everything on this bike I have no idea the current condition of the muffler packing so I’m just going to redo it. I did get a hold of some maintenance and other information on this bike and it looks like it was really loved for a lot of years, like 15 or so, it’s the more recent history where it was not maintained and ridden. I actually have the name, address and phone number of the original owner, it might be nice to let him know if I can when it is back on the road 😀. 

looks like you got a great bike there and a very good read watching what you are doing, best of luck with it

If you havent put the clutch back together yet, I recommend getting some EBC clutch springs.  Even though yours measure in spec, the EBC are slightly stiffer and will improve feel and extend the life of the clutch.  They are like 10 bucks and with the hydraulic clutch the pull isnt really affected.

13 hours ago, scottbott

looks like you got a great bike there and a very good read watching what you are doing, best of luck with it

Thank you, cheers.

6 hours ago, Captain 80s

If you havent put the clutch back together yet, I recommend getting some EBC clutch springs.  Even though yours measure in spec, the EBC are slightly stiffer and will improve feel and extend the life of the clutch.  They are like 10 bucks and with the hydraulic clutch the pull isnt really affected.

Good idea.

Luckily the side case cover comes right back off easily and since the gasket is intact I could certainly do that!  Interestingly, I mentioned I found some maintenance records and on 2/12/95, at only 4 years old and with 16k miles, it says the clutch springs were replaced. Hmmm, this is the same time period when the Brembo brakes were installed and the Yoshimura exhaust can was added.  I would bet that when the clutch springs were replaced that it was done with Barnett or other aftermarket spring.  Still we are talking about 25 year old springs and I'm not saying they couldn't use replacement.  Bike has 35k miles on it now.

1 hour ago, mtnpat

Good idea.

Luckily the side case cover comes right back off easily and since the gasket is intact I could certainly do that!  Interestingly, I mentioned I found some maintenance records and on 2/12/95, at only 4 years old and with 16k miles, it says the clutch springs were replaced. Hmmm, this is the same time period when the Brembo brakes were installed and the Yoshimura exhaust can was added.  I would bet that when the clutch springs were replaced that it was done with Barnett or other aftermarket spring.  Still we are talking about 25 year old springs and I'm not saying they couldn't use replacement.  Bike has 35k miles on it now.

The EBC kit comes with 6 springs (multiple fitments) and I have replaced 3 of 4 of my VFRs, a friend's, and one spare engine (that got installed on a frame swap).  I got the "Buy 5, Get One Free" deal.

Enjoyed your story and pictures, nice friend giving you that bike for your B-Day! Someone gave me a free complete motorcycle as a back-up parts bike which I ended up using everything from the wiring harness to the engine on my high mileage unit.

I have two of these generation 3 bikes. My 93 has the same pipe you have, interesting front brake set-up with the master cylinder. I have some EBC full floating rotors on my 91 that I bartered off labour on. Had my 91 since 95 bought with 4500 miles for $4500 and it has 82,000 now. 93 was bought for $500 with 15,000 miles and has 32,000 now (93 was brought home like your bike, on a trailer.)

It takes labour/love/money to properly resurrect a neglected or just a 30+ year old motorcycle period. I took my 93 on a 250 ride for my 55th birthday during the holiday Thanksgiving Holiday and it rode like a top, 90mph cruising with passing 135mph, maxed out for a little way 150mph. I still have to tell myself they are old bikes, but Honda did give us the beauty of the engine Rev range, so why not indulge it sensibly?

Good luck and keep on posting.

2 hours ago, ridervfr

Enjoyed your story and pictures, nice friend giving you that bike for your B-Day! Someone gave me a free complete motorcycle as a back-up parts bike which I ended up using everything from the wiring harness to the engine on my high mileage unit.

I have two of these generation 3 bikes. My 93 has the same pipe you have, interesting front brake set-up with the master cylinder. I have some EBC full floating rotors on my 91 that I bartered off labour on. Had my 91 since 95 bought with 4500 miles for $4500 and it has 82,000 now. 93 was bought for $500 with 15,000 miles and has 32,000 now (93 was brought home like your bike, on a trailer.)

It takes labour/love/money to properly resurrect a neglected or just a 30+ year old motorcycle period. I took my 93 on a 250 ride for my 55th birthday during the holiday Thanksgiving Holiday and it rode like a top, 90mph cruising with passing 135mph, maxed out for a little way 150mph. I still have to tell myself they are old bikes, but Honda did give us the beauty of the engine Rev range, so why not indulge it sensibly?

Good luck and keep on posting.

[image: VFRGARAGE.jpg]

What a beauty.  I've always wanted an unmolested '93.  :wub:

mtnpat, 12/3/2020 at 7:42 PM

I bought the “Elephant Brand Muff Pack Muffler Repacking Kit, Up to 15" Long Mufflers”.  It is a triple layer system starting with some screen, then steel wool and finally traditional muffler packing material. It was $30. 
 

I’ll post some pics when I tear into it.
 

Of the 8 screws (4 on each end) holding everything together, I already checked and 7 of the 8 came loose, 1 I will have to drill out or more likely cut a slot in with my Dremel for a large flat blade screwdriver. 
 

As with everything on this bike I have no idea the current condition of the muffler packing so I’m just going to redo it. I did get a hold of some maintenance and other information on this bike and it looks like it was really loved for a lot of years, like 15 or so, it’s the more recent history where it was not maintained and ridden. I actually have the name, address and phone number of the original owner, it might be nice to let him know if I can when it is back on the road 😀. 

The original owner would probably be really happy to see his old ride still out there!

I found your repack kit on amazon. It apparently combines the ceramic blanket with steel wool. I wonder if the wool provides structure?

And I had to replace one or two of those screws myself. They were just missing. I found stainless replacements at the local hardware store. Nothing special.

Have fun. 🙂

18 hours ago, ridervfr

I took my 93 on a 250 ride for my 55th birthday during the holiday Thanksgiving Holiday and it rode like a top, 90mph cruising with passing 135mph, maxed out for a little way 150mph. I still have to tell myself they are old bikes, but Honda did give us the beauty of the engine Rev range, so why not indulge it sensibly?

It never even crosses my mind to take it easy because of my bike's age (1992), although I can't say I've ever ridden above the legal speed limit. 🤔 Like old airplanes, I expect these to just run forever...

ridervfr, 12/4/2020 at 8:36 PM

Enjoyed your story and pictures, nice friend giving you that bike for your B-Day! Someone gave me a free complete motorcycle as a back-up parts bike which I ended up using everything from the wiring harness to the engine on my high mileage unit.

I have two of these generation 3 bikes. My 93 has the same pipe you have, interesting front brake set-up with the master cylinder. I have some EBC full floating rotors on my 91 that I bartered off labour on. Had my 91 since 95 bought with 4500 miles for $4500 and it has 82,000 now. 93 was bought for $500 with 15,000 miles and has 32,000 now (93 was brought home like your bike, on a trailer.)

It takes labour/love/money to properly resurrect a neglected or just a 30+ year old motorcycle period. I took my 93 on a 250 ride for my 55th birthday during the holiday Thanksgiving Holiday and it rode like a top, 90mph cruising with passing 135mph, maxed out for a little way 150mph. I still have to tell myself they are old bikes, but Honda did give us the beauty of the engine Rev range, so why not indulge it sensibly?

Good luck and keep on posting.

[image: VFRGARAGE.jpg]

I like that solid white bike, you just don't see too many white ones and I think it works well with the VFR 3rd gen styling.  Oh and cool to see the same exhaust on someone else's bike.

It was nice of my buddy to give me the bike as a birthday present......he actually said something like this is for 25 years of NOT buying you a birthday present.  He wasn't going to do anything with it and was at a point where he was trying to consolidate down to fewer vehicles and projects so getting it out of his way hopefully cleared his focus, also gave him back some garage space!  I have offered to build him a bike (with him) and I will ask again, I just can't do it at somebody else's garage without my tools.  My place isn't so bad, he should just come over.  He actually wants me to sell him my ZRX, but I keep trying to steer him towards a modern fuel-injected bike so he has no hassles.

You are right about it being a labor of love getting these older bikes back on the road, not everything is still available from Honda and well as you said they are 30 years old, stuff like hoses, switch and wires, seals and gaskets are approaching not doing there job as well anymore.  When I initially got this bike home and spent 5 minutes looking at it I could quickly count up $1000-1200 in parts it needed.  Tires, battery, chain and sprocket, carb overhaul, gas tank refurbish.  Oh and it needed a windscreen.  After getting into it I also discovered it was not charging, had a non-functioning fuel pump and broken or cut fuel lines, etc.  I'm at $1325 in parts right now and that should be it minus a small amount of primer and paint.  After I ride it, then I will decide what else I want to do like suspension, for now I just want (demand really) a safe and reliable bike.  I love my Honda ST1100 so much and it is a spectacular bike, I'm sure this one will be a winner too!

I will definitely need to find a place to break the speed limit, by a lot!  I hate having a fast bike and not being able to use all that power and speed.  I am fortunate to have a ton of twisty fun roads, but no safe places to do top speed runs without risking going to jail.  I am thinking some track days at Summit Point Raceway in nearby West by god Virginia are in order!  

8 hours ago, Gebruiker

Have fun. 🙂

Thank you, I am.  Having a project and something to get away from it all in the garage really helps.

I'm working on installing the new regulator/rectifier (in a new location) and troubleshooting a neutral switch/circuit issue.  PICs when done.

22 hours ago, mtnpat

I like that solid white bike, you just don't see too many white ones and I think it works well with the VFR 3rd gen styling.  Oh and cool to see the same exhaust on someone else's bike.

It was nice of my buddy to give me the bike as a birthday present......he actually said something like this is for 25 years of NOT buying you a birthday present.  He wasn't going to do anything with it and was at a point where he was trying to consolidate down to fewer vehicles and projects so getting it out of his way hopefully cleared his focus, also gave him back some garage space!  I have offered to build him a bike (with him) and I will ask again, I just can't do it at somebody else's garage without my tools.  My place isn't so bad, he should just come over.  He actually wants me to sell him my ZRX, but I keep trying to steer him towards a modern fuel-injected bike so he has no hassles.

You are right about it being a labor of love getting these older bikes back on the road, not everything is still available from Honda and well as you said they are 30 years old, stuff like hoses, switch and wires, seals and gaskets are approaching not doing there job as well anymore.  When I initially got this bike home and spent 5 minutes looking at it I could quickly count up $1000-1200 in parts it needed.  Tires, battery, chain and sprocket, carb overhaul, gas tank refurbish.  Oh and it needed a windscreen.  After getting into it I also discovered it was not charging, had a non-functioning fuel pump and broken or cut fuel lines, etc.  I'm at $1325 in parts right now and that should be it minus a small amount of primer and paint.  After I ride it, then I will decide what else I want to do like suspension, for now I just want (demand really) a safe and reliable bike.  I love my Honda ST1100 so much and it is a spectacular bike, I'm sure this one will be a winner too!

I will definitely need to find a place to break the speed limit, by a lot!  I hate having a fast bike and not being able to use all that power and speed.  I am fortunate to have a ton of twisty fun roads, but no safe places to do top speed runs without risking going to jail.  I am thinking some track days at Summit Point Raceway in nearby West by god Virginia are in order!  

I look at things a little different than other people, that being said, I have not bought a new new motorcycle since 1993 and that bike cost $3999 (the good old days.) So, my used 1991 used VFR with 4000+ miles cost me $4500 26-27 years ago and I am still running it (can you say, "Ahead of the game?") That particular bike I have bought things without looking at prices so much (I get things at 10% over dealer cost and have Fun funds set aside on Ebay.) Without getting into networth ect it is cheap to keep an older bike on the road compared to buying a 15,000 dollar Busa or some other higher dollar new bike (which could possibly get me into trouble here.) BTW I do ride fast here and have a clean zero point license (hope I dont jinx myself LOL.)

When you get a new used bike its pretty automatic that your going to have to lay out some cash for a least tyres, battery, and other ancillary stuff. My 93 had a dead regulator/rectifier out of the box, it had new tyres and chain and sprockets on it (bad master link that was replaced at a cost of ten dollars.) You get the picture, I am not penurious when it comes to spending money on these bikes because once your done, you have something that (sounds like a cliche) you can't buy for money. The build quality of these bikes is really good, they did not cheap out what-so-ever. I like what you did with the fuel lines and how you repaired the tatty carburetor plastic tray. I was able to get OEM replacement fuel lines when I needed them and ended up getting Samco radiator hoses from the UK for both of my bikes.

I did club level racing here in South FL when I first moved down here, did a light weight sportsman and a heavy weight sportsman class. Had fun, they did not have track days when I was involved with it. If I was going to do a track day, one of my VFRs would be the last bikes I would go out on, (and this is where my head is) if you even have a low side accident on one of these bikes, you basically going to be screwed for parts. Plus one of these bikes that I own is called, "First Wife" can you imagine flogging your poor first wife on a track day? I think not LOL. I would get a dedicated track bike if you wanted to go that route, Ninja something or other or maybe a nice 600cc inline 4.

ridervfr, 12/6/2020 at 9:25 PM

I like what you did with the fuel lines and how you repaired the tatty carburetor plastic tray. I was able to get OEM replacement fuel lines when I needed them and ended up getting Samco radiator hoses from the UK for both of my bikes.

I ended up having to remove the inline petcock I was planning to use, because, of course I didn't check to see if the rear cowling and seat would fit with it at that location.  It doesn't.  I did however get the OEM style clamps installed everywhere though.  I need to get a petcock that bolts right to the tank, either OEM or a Pingel with adapter.  The one I have now was missing parts and not rebuildable.   For now while just getting the bike going, I will just use what I have and be careful when I take the tank off and on and it has gas in it.

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I also installed a new fuel pump because the one that was on the bike was looking pretty corroded.  While you can buy fuel pumps for this bike for $25-40, I decided to go with the one sold by K&L because it is made in Japan the same as the OEM was and I'm feeling the build quality will be just a bit better, it costs quite a bit more than $40 but less than an original if you can find one.  The K&L has the same exact Mitsubishi symbol on the bottom as the pump I took off, I can't say for sure if it was the one that came on the bike from Honda or not but there was nothing in the maintenance records about it being replaced.

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I recently bought a new voltage regulator/rectifier and installed it.  I went with a genuine FH020AA from Roadstercycle.  When I got the bike it was not charging the battery at all, nothing.  It was also ooozing a bit of its insides, outside from probably overheating.  It was the original style regulator/rectifier.  While you can buy inexpensive (read as cheap) R/Rs, from what I have seen in the reviews they are a waste of money.  I went with a product that is known to be excellent quality with quick and easy customer service.

Copying what Hingley did (March 2019 post on this forum), I chose to not mount my new Shindengen R/R at the stock location, instead I made a bracket and placed it behind the rear brake fluid reservoir.  Great idea Hingley!

The FH020AA is quite a bit larger that the stock style R/R and while you can fit it at the stock location it is a tight fit and rubs the body work.  I tried it several ways and did not like it, in the end decided to move it back where there is a ton of room.  I mean it is a cavernous space comparatively.  Mounting further back mirrors the location of the ECU on the other side.

I cut a bracket out of 1/4" aluminum and while it is overkill for holding this electronic part in place I wanted it so that I had adequate thickness for tapping M6 size holes to mount the R/R.  The bracket itself bolts into the 2 existing M8 size holes already tapped in the subframe.  I have not fired the bike yet to see the voltage being supplied yet.  I did test the stator before replacing the R/R and it is believed to be good.  Will report back when I do.

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ridervfr, 12/6/2020 at 9:25 PM

If I was going to do a track day, one of my VFRs would be the last bikes I would go out on, (and this is where my head is) if you even have a low side accident on one of these bikes, you basically going to be screwed for parts. Plus one of these bikes that I own is called, "First Wife" can you imagine flogging your poor first wife on a track day? I think not LOL. I would get a dedicated track bike if you wanted to go that route, Ninja something or other or maybe a nice 600cc inline 4.

I'm with you, there are much better track bikes.  But I'm not wanting a track bike as much as I want to ride my bike at the track.  Just want a place to be able to open her up without worrying about inattentive drivers, deer or bear jumping out in front of me.  So it's either take it to the drag strip or a road course.  Just want to haul ass with a wee bit more safety.  I am blessed to have hundreds of miles of twisty fun mountain roads where I live but few places where you can pin it in top gear!

Went for a ride Friday!

No, not on the VFR, not yet.  Instead took out the Kawasaki for the last ride of the year before topping off the gas tank and covering her up for the Winter.  I was riding through a local small town, in a 25 MPH zone just crossed some railroad tracks, looking around I see a family sitting on the front porch of their house, maybe a grandmother and a couple of small boys.  One of the boys gives me the "twist the throttle" gesture so I pulled in the clutch and gave them a blast with the Kerker, he seemed to appreciate it!  Obviously a motorcycle fan. 👍

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ridervfr, 12/6/2020 at 6:25 PM

If I was going to do a track day, one of my VFRs would be the last bikes I would go out on, (and this is where my head is) if you even have a low side accident on one of these bikes, you basically going to be screwed for parts. Plus one of these bikes that I own is called, "First Wife" can you imagine flogging your poor first wife on a track day? I think not LOL. I would get a dedicated track bike if you wanted to go that route, Ninja something or other or maybe a nice 600cc inline 4.

mtnpat, 12/14/2020 at 12:11 PM

I'm with you, there are much better track bikes.  But I'm not wanting a track bike as much as I want to ride my bike at the track.  Just want a place to be able to open her up without worrying about inattentive drivers, deer or bear jumping out in front of me.  So it's either take it to the drag strip or a road course.  Just want to haul ass with a wee bit more safety.  I am blessed to have hundreds of miles of twisty fun mountain roads where I live but few places where you can pin it in top gear!

Yeah, there are many ways to enjoy racetrack. Practice and skills improvement is one way. You don't have to go all out racer-type at all for it to be beneficial. I took my VF500 to track starting way back in '90s and have always been a little apprehensive. That's why I never got into racing. But it did make me much, much better rider on street.

Then couple years ago, I saw used Ninja-250 race-bike going for next to nothing. Its lightness and responsiveness bumped me off wall I've been sitting on and it's been just a blast racing, I wished I had done it sooner. 

11 minutes ago, DannoXYZ

Yeah, there are many ways to enjoy racetrack. Practice and skills improvement is one way. You don't have to go all out racer-type at all for it to be beneficial. I took my VF500 to track starting way back in '90s and have always been a little apprehensive. That's why I never got into racing. But it did make me much, much better rider on street.

Then couple years ago, I saw used Ninja-250 race-bike going for next to nothing. Its lightness and responsiveness bumped me off wall I've been sitting on and it's been just a blast racing, I wished I had done it sooner. 

Yep, I've been riding for 35+ years but guarantee I could learn a lot from an instructor in an organized session.

A lightweight well setup bike is sooo much fun.  I used to have a set of super moto wheels and tires on my KLX, that thing was scary fun in corners, all 35 HP.  It's more fun to ride a slow bike fast than a fast bike slow 😉.

13 hours ago, mtnpat

Went for a ride Friday!

One of the boys gives me the "twist the throttle" gesture so I pulled in the clutch and gave them a blast with the Kerker, he seemed to appreciate it!  Obviously a motorcycle fan. 👍

[image: IMG_5681.JPG.4bc0982b51b2c5a13a8cf92c3ea41b42.JPG]

Many Dutch boys are the same.....  But the VF500F2 or OEM 4th gen are far less impressive than the RC51....

Old men give me the thumbs up if I putput past on my Gilera....  :laugh:

mtnpat, 12/14/2020 at 3:23 PM

Went for a ride Friday!

No, not on the VFR, not yet.  Instead took out the Kawasaki for the last ride of the year before topping off the gas tank and covering her up for the Winter.  I was riding through a local small town, in a 25 MPH zone just crossed some railroad tracks, looking around I see a family sitting on the front porch of their house, maybe a grandmother and a couple of small boys.  One of the boys gives me the "twist the throttle" gesture so I pulled in the clutch and gave them a blast with the Kerker, he seemed to appreciate it!  Obviously a motorcycle fan. 👍

[image: IMG_5681.JPG.4bc0982b51b2c5a13a8cf92c3ea41b42.JPG]

This is one of my favorite bikes ever, some day I would like to have one.

mtnpat, 12/14/2020 at 9:01 PM

I recently bought a new voltage regulator/rectifier and installed it.  I went with a genuine FH020AA from Roadstercycle.  When I got the bike it was not charging the battery at all, nothing.  It was also ooozing a bit of its insides, outside from probably overheating.  It was the original style regulator/rectifier.  While you can buy inexpensive (read as cheap) R/Rs, from what I have seen in the reviews they are a waste of money.  I went with a product that is known to be excellent quality with quick and easy customer service.

Copying what Hingley did (March 2019 post on this forum), I chose to not mount my new Shindengen R/R at the stock location, instead I made a bracket and placed it behind the rear brake fluid reservoir.  Great idea Hingley!

The FH020AA is quite a bit larger that the stock style R/R and while you can fit it at the stock location it is a tight fit and rubs the body work.  I tried it several ways and did not like it, in the end decided to move it back where there is a ton of room.  I mean it is a cavernous space comparatively.  Mounting further back mirrors the location of the ECU on the other side.

I cut a bracket out of 1/4" aluminum and while it is overkill for holding this electronic part in place I wanted it so that I had adequate thickness for tapping M6 size holes to mount the R/R.  The bracket itself bolts into the 2 existing M8 size holes already tapped in the subframe.  I have not fired the bike yet to see the voltage being supplied yet.  I did test the stator before replacing the R/R and it is believed to be good.  Will report back when I do.

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Are you sure the RR will not be in contact with the tail fairing? At least, this sounds more elegant than my own version ;-)

4 hours ago, bdouvill

Are you sure the RR will not be in contact with the tail fairing? At least, this sounds more elegant than my own version 😉

Yes, I actually did several test fitments, unlike some other parts.  There is probably 1/2" of space all around it.  I don't know what the M8 holes in the subframe that I used were for from the factory, my guess is for hanging side bags or a trunk since this was considered a sport touring bike.  I however will never be adding those things so using these mounting points is a no brainer, so much more room.

[image: 673780523_IMG_56312.thumb.jpg.8e9306b48d0d0bc6c9c3e61a94bbd0e7.jpg] 

Them holes provide a perfect fit fit the GIVI Wing rack yes.

Nice job on the bracket and upgrade. When you install the new r/r do you use thermal paste? The cooling fins are obvious, but I wonder if paste is still helpful. Like on computer chips...

[image: IMG_5614.thumb.JPG.d9ee5d0775ad04061860c79b37c38b1c.JPG]

DannoXYZ, 12/14/2020 at 3:49 PM

Then couple years ago, I saw used Ninja-250 race-bike going for next to nothing. Its lightness and responsiveness bumped me off wall I've been sitting on and it's been just a blast racing

Everybody says the little Ninja's are loads of fun on a track. The guys have a pretty good website too, not just for ninja's but for general rider information. Nothing like VFRd. Nonono, nowhere near as good as this. 😉 But maybe worth a look. It's here:   https://forums.ninja250.org/

4 hours ago, Gebruiker

Nice job on the bracket and upgrade. When you install the new r/r do you use thermal paste? The cooling fins are obvious, but I wonder if paste is still helpful. Like on computer chips...

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I thought about it but no. I did make sure the aluminum plate was relatively flat for maximum surface contact with the back of the R/R for good thermal conductance. I think the design of the MOSFET R/Rs negate having to add the thermal paste as they run cool enough as is. Good question though. 

Oh crap, I made a shiny spot. 

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Dutchy, 12/17/2020 at 1:47 AM

Them holes provide a perfect fit fit the GIVI Wing rack yes.

Thanks for confirming, I can see now the knock out pieces on the plastic fender for when you mount luggage,  still in place on this bike.

Merry Christmas everyone.  Some updates on motorcycle fun stuff.

Got the electrical all sorted 100% now.  I had a few things to address, specifically wiring new R/R to battery, adding an auxiliary battery connection for charging, accessories and monitoring voltage.  Also the neutral circuit / light was not working when I got this bike....the engine would not run in neutral with the side stand down, which it should.

Wiring the new R/R connections and adding an aux cord is very straightforward.  Keeping the new connections on the positive and negative posts on the battery close together, everything facing forward, no modifications are needed to the battery lid and it fits nicely over everything.  There is a fuse holder with a 7.5a fuse in it for the aux power cord directly in front of the battery and in easy reach.  The 30a circuit breaker for the R/R is mounted outside the sub frame.  A couple of pics:

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The battery power cord is run to the front of the bike where it is just tied off to the front fairing frame, you can either use it or tuck it away.

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And the neutral circuit issue turned out to be the clutch diode.  I had read many other posts about the neutral light coming on when pulling in the clutch to shift gears and the problem being the clutch diode, but I had not seen my issue where the light never comes on and the bike doesn't know when you are in neutral thus allowing things like the bike idling in neutral on the side stand.  The diode itself tested good, but the act of removing and reinstalling the diode a couple of times must have cleaned up the 30 year old connections and it all magically started working.  I put it back together for the last time with some dielectric grease added.  I actually went through and inspected all of the major easy to get to connectors on this bike and I am happy to report that none of them were burnt or visually corroded, they all were in pretty good shape....added dielectric grease to all of those connections as well.  Here's a pic of the clutch diode and its location on the right side of the bike:

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I also repacked the Yoshimura muffler with a kit I bought.  It has a combination of stainless steel screen and steel wool, then a layer of ceramic insulation blanket.  Here are some pics of the disassembly, repack and assembly.  7 of the 8 screws that hold this all together came right out, 1 of them I had to cut a slot in with a Dremel and #409 cutting wheel and then use a flat blade screwdriver, right angle for torque.  Also, a couple of shots of what I am sure was the factory packing material:

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A sturdy padded jaw bench vise helps a lot with both disassembly and assembly of the can.  Mandatory is a soft-faced dead blow hammer.  Optional is heat, I recommend it as it helps get the end caps off and the whole thing apart.  I used a propane torch and just barely kissed the ends of the cans with a soft flame never discoloring the metal or getting it visibly hot.

PLEASE DO NOT BURN YOUR HOUSE DOWN OR USE A PROPANE TORCH NEAR CHILDREN OR ANIMALS.

I think a heat gun for removing paint would do just as good of a job.  The following pics include tools for both methods.

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Here is the repacking sequence.  Not shown is that I added an additional 3-4” ring of ceramic blanket inside the end of the can nearest the engine to completely fill the can with blanket:

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Finally some elbow grease and that Mothers shine was added to the can and mounting strap.  I also removed the burnt up fiberglass band that was inside the mounting strap where it touches the muffler and replaced it with a strip of 1/16" silicone rubber that I cut to width and length.

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And before you think the "Made in U.S.A." on the label of the Yoshimura exhaust system is BS, those are 1/4-20 thread screws holding the end caps on and not a metric size.....I know because I decided to purchase some new ones because I didn’t have the correct ones.  🇺🇸

Thanks for reading and helping out everyone! 

Nice job, looks like new.

This is the thread I'll now reference if I ever get around to repacking my yoshimura. Thank you for the detailed tutorial!

Was the original packing...assuming it was original...also steel wool wrapped with ceramic? It appears to be only ceramic or glass fiber wrapped with foil. Maybe? Also, you wrapped the ceramic blanket with blue tape (your picture below)? Is that some kind of super heat tape that comes with the rewrap kit? It doesn't look permanent. Do you then remove that as you slide the entire package into the can, or do you leave it in place, expecting it to just char once the exhaust warms up?

As for your final product...now I know what mine is supposed to look like. 😁

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jefferson, 12/26/2020 at 12:30 PM

Nice job, looks like new.

Thank you, I see you are a ZRX owner as well, a 1999, the best year!

The VFR will look good for a 30 year old bike that has had a hard last 5-10 years.  No major damage to body work, quite a few small dings or paint touch ups.  The goal is to ride the bike, then see where to go with it next. 🤷‍♂️

Are you on the ZRXOA. Lots of good info there like any good forum with a lot of die hard enthusiasts. Lots of activity which I like. I have done mine up as a proper Eddie Lawson replica. Kawasaki painted it the wrong color green in my opinion.

The VFR is my first Honda and I think I got a pretty good one. Time to start the modding since winter is here.

Gebruiker, 12/27/2020 at 9:46 AM

This is the thread I'll now reference if I ever get around to repacking my yoshimura. Thank you for the detailed tutorial!

Was the original packing...assuming it was original...also steel wool wrapped with ceramic? It appears to be only ceramic or glass fiber wrapped with foil. Maybe? Also, you wrapped the ceramic blanket with blue tape (your picture below)? Is that some kind of super heat tape that comes with the rewrap kit? It doesn't look permanent. Do you then remove that as you slide the entire package into the can, or do you leave it in place, expecting it to just char once the exhaust warms up?

As for your final product...now I know what mine is supposed to look like. 😁

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Hey Gebruiker,

Yea I remember you were interested in some pics when I opened up the Yoshi so I'm glad you asked any questions.

To answer, I am thinking the packing I removed was from the factory, it had that very neat well manufactured look to it.  And it was all one material, looks like some sort of fiberglass wrapped completely with what I would call old school masking tape, it's what people used before the blue stuff came along.  It was wrapped 100% end to end.  When I put mine together I saw no need to wrap the whole thing so I just used the 3 strips of regular blue painters tape to hold it together and I left it in place and slid the whole thing in the can expecting the tape will just get dried out.  It's only purpose here is to hold the blanket in place.

If you use this same kit for your exhaust I can also offer up the following additional things I discovered.

It is a universal kit and the instructions do say to cut the different layers of material to length and diameter for your application.  For the screen and steel wool, you will need to cut the pieces both lengthwise and some off the diameter too for it to fit nicely on the perforated pipe.  Tech Tip: the steel wool can be hard to cut and will send little pieces of metal everywhere that you don't want to get in your skin or eye, have a nice contained place when you cut the steel wool and clean up well.  Also, do not use your wife's kitchen scissors for cutting the steel wool, it will dull them!  The kit also came with some 304 stainless tie wire, if you look closely in the pics you can see I just made a small loop on one end then you used it to anchor the wire wrap along the screen and steel wool sandwich, they give you just enough to tie off at the other end if you space it out just right.

Also it is important to note here because everyone on the Internet could be reading this right now......the screen and steel wool used here are not the standard hardware store variety, it is stainless and manufactured with a process that does not use oil so it is not combustable - very important.  Do not use material not designed for the job or you may regret it.  Don't burn anything or place down.

For the ceramic insulation blanket, you will not want to cut any off of the length or diameter.  They give you just enough to make one wrap around the steel wool with about 1.5" overlap, leave all of it.  And don't cut anything off the length of the blanket either or you will just have to add it back on like I did, no big deal either way, just make sure to fill the can completely without overly compressing the blanket.

Good luck with your project.

30 minutes ago, jefferson

Are you on the ZRXOA. Lots of good info there like any good forum with a lot of die hard enthusiasts. Lots of activity which I like. I have done mine up as a proper Eddie Lawson replica. Kawasaki painted it the wrong color green in my opinion.

The VFR is my first Honda and I think I got a pretty good one. Time to start the modding since winter is here.

Yes on ZRXOA, what a bunch of crazies over there.  Yes, a very good active forum.

I need to see a pic of your bike now, everyone does!

mtnpat, 12/24/2020 at 6:47 PM

Merry Christmas everyone.  Some updates on motorcycle fun stuff.

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That looks fantastic (and I'm sure sounds the same).  Nicely done.  Thanks for posting. 

How's it sound after repacking? What's different?

Can you post link to repacking kit? thx

7 hours ago, DannoXYZ

How's it sound after repacking? What's different?

Can you post link to repacking kit? thx

I have not run the bike since repacking the exhaust can. The next time will be when I sync the carbs, I’m waiting on a warm day here in Northwestern VA. to do just that.  Can’t wait to hear it. 
 

I hope we are allowed to post links, let me know if not.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ED8QTJ6/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_track_package_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Inspired by RC1237V, here are some gratuitous beer pics from tonight’s dinner:

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It’s good to have a friend who bottles beer and keeps me in a fresh assortment

😁

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DannoXYZ, 12/28/2020 at 1:10 PM

How's it sound after repacking? What's different?

If you follow up on this mtnpat, I’m interested too. 🙂

Yoshimura actually recommends repacking at least once a year(!). Seriously? I wonder how many of their customers follow that schedule.   https://www.yoshimura-rd.com/pages/repack-and-insert-chart 

mtnpat, 12/28/2020 at 11:19 AM

Yes on ZRXOA, what a bunch of crazies over there.  Yes, a very good active forum.

I need to see a pic of your bike now, everyone does!

Well there aren't any pictures of the ZRX on this computer and the SD card with them on it now has an error. The computer they were loaded onto has been shelved when we bought this one because it was bad. I'm going to see if the pictured can be retrieved off of it.

Happy New Year, hope all is well.  I got some more things completed, I'm very close to the last step - tires.

Meanwhile, out in the garage (driveway) I synchronized the carbs which was the step before fixing the gas tank which is right before tires.

I find the idle speed screws on the VFR750 uniquely hard to reach compared to other 4 cylinder bikes including my Honda ST1100 V4.  Basically on this quartet of carbs the screws are on the bottom.  And actually not that hard to get to at all if you have the correct tool, which I bought.  With a 90 degreee extended-length screwdriver you can reach into the valley and adjust the idle screws as necessary to sync the carbs, I like this tool because you can fit it with a 7mm socket to adjust the screws, this makes for a nice positive engagement between tool and fastener which is what you need when you are trying to adjust something you mostly can't see.  TIP: use a mirror to get a good look at where the screws are so you know what you are shooting for when reaching in there.  I was able to adjust the VFR carbs very quickly, all 4 banks very close together.

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And my preferred tool for measuring how synchronized the intake pulses are on a V4 is by using an air flow meter and measuring in kilograms per hour the flow rate of the air passing through each carb.  This is different than the traditional method of measuring vacuum from a small port at the base of each intake runner.

Here are some old vacuum style mercury-filled carb sticks, they work so-so:

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And here is a home made vacuum style sync tool using transmission fluid as the medium.  It works very well for the ZRX where you sync 2 carbs at a time then sync the 2 banks together.

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Here is what I used for the VFR.  It simply tells you how much air is being sucked into the intake.  Using this you get an easy to read, repeatable measurement, you just move tool from one velocity stack to the next, takes like a second.

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I still so far have only run the engine using an auxiliary gas tank and a gravity feed so far, this because of the rust issues with the tank.  Plus you need an auxiliary tank anyway when using this method.

And as far as the sound from the newly re-packed Yoshimura muffler....hard to tell how sweet it will be because well so far I have only run the bike in the driveway hooked up to a gasoline IV, RPMs from 1k - 6-7k.  I will say it sounds quieter than it did with the blown out fiberglass insulation packing.

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Speaking of rusty gas tanks, I really couldn't procrastinate any more on seeing if I could save the tank.  As it turns out I could.  I used distilled white vinegar, filling the tank and letting it soak so the mild acid could attack the rust.  Total soak time was ~48 hours.  I used the method found at the following link and it did the job. 

https://www.revzilla.com/common-tread/how-to-clean-rust-out-of-a-motorcycle-gas-tank

I will list what ended up being my steps, maybe it will help someone as well:

1. remove fuel filler assembly
2. remove petcock and fuel level sending unit
3. add block off plates to cover up petcock and sending unit holes
4. prop tank up level and fill with 5.5 gallons of white distilled vinegar
5. let sit for 24 hours
6. use manual or electric fuel pump to drain 4.5 gallons from tank leaving 1 gallon
7. add 2 cups of small rocks to tank, keep them marble size or smaller, you don't want to dent your tank
8. tape the tank filler hole closed, degrease and use Gorilla tape for this, works great
9. take tank outside over some soft grass and shake like crazy
10. turn tank on all sides and shake some more
11. sit tank down and rest 5 minutes
12. come back and shake some more
13. use gloves or whatever you need to do to hold onto tank and NOT DROP IT
14. bring tank back inside and prop it up level again, remove Gorilla tape from tank opening
15. add back in the 4.5 gallons of vinegar you previously pumped out
16. let sit for 24 hours (again)
17. use manual or electric fuel pump to drain 4.5 gallons from tank leaving 1 gallon (again)
18. repeat shaking process from steps 6-10 above
19. use manual or electric fuel pump to drain remainder of vinegar from tank
20. starting at the next step you want to work fast as you can to keep new rust from forming so have your stuff ready
21. turn tank on side or top and remove both blank off plates
22. go outside near your garden hose and put down a big piece of soft cardboard or a blanket, something that can get wet and can catch your tank if your drop it, but don't drop it, it also comes in handy for having something soft to sit your tank on while working on it outside, you could use soft nice soft grass too
23. take tank outside and rinse for 2-3 minutes with a garden hose, washing out all of the vinegar and as many rocks as possible, I found most came right out the petcock mounting hole
24. have 2 large pots of hot water ready mixed with a small amount of Dawn dishwashing liquid in each (to neutralize acid from vinegar), heat to ~140 degrees, so hot but not boiling or even scalding hot)
25. use a large funnel to dump one of the large pots of hot water + Dawn dish soap into tank, shake, shake, shake and rinse tank out, repeat immediately with the second pot of hot water + soap.
26. pick tank up and shake out as much water as possible
27. take tank back inside and get a hair dryer going pumping a large volume of hot air through the tank, entering the filler neck and exiting the petcock and fuel sending unit holes
28. the combination of using hot water and then the hot air dryer will help get the inside of the tank to dry quickly preventing a bunch of flash rust from happening
29. pick tank up periodically and shake out any water settling then turn tank over and put back in front of hair dryer
30. repeat step 29 a few times, it took less then 30 minutes to completely dry out my tank after all of this
31. shake tank and try to get out the 4-5 rocks that are still in the tank, cussing helps here, eventually I was able to get each of the few remaining rocks out by shaking them forward in the tank, turning tank over and grabbing them with a long pair of hemostats through the fuel sending unit hole
32. at this point since I was choosing not to coat the inside of the tank with any kind of liner, I used an engine cylinder fogging oil to spray the crap out of the inside of the tank using long applicator wands and all 3 holes in the tank to access everywhere inside.  I also over the next couple of days turned the tank on its sides and top for a few hours each to let the oil creep into all cavities and locations.  Again, have something nice and soft (don't scratch or damage your tank) but disposable to put your tank on when working on it inside, especially for this step, it makes a mess.  I put what I consider a lot of the spray fogging oil into the tank, by a lot I am guessing 1/4 can or less, so a lot but you are not filling the tank, you are coating the walls to prevent rust.

That's it basically, 32 easy steps.  The fogging oil if you used enough will leak out the bottom of the tank for a couple of days so don't bring it in the house or over any carpets or anything like that!

I don't plan to run the bike using the gas tank and fuel pump for 3-4 months so I am leaving this coating of oil in the tank for now.  Before running the bike in the Spring time I will use some gasoline to wash most of the oil out of the tank then I should be good to go with normal use of riding the bike and keeping the tank full of fresh gasoline as much as possible, I don't expect appreciable new rust in the future.

Here are some before and after pics using both my iPhone and a endoscope:

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So not perfect and I'm sure more could have been done with different methods but perfectly useable.  Here is a shot with the fogging oil added:

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So the tank is back on the bike after many months, all polished up and shiny.  Not much left except replacing the 12 year old tires and getting the body work back on it.

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Here are a couple of pics from the whole de-rust / vinegar process.  I recommend a LARGE funnel for filling tank with vinegar and then at the end with hot water, hard for even me to mess things up.  In use here is an automotive radiator funnel.  Also seen is a pic of my 12v inline fuel pump I used to remove vinegar from tank at a few of the steps, it made the whole process very easy.  A couple of other random pics including one showing the mess the oil will make in the last step so be warned.

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I think I will wrap it up here for now.  I have some other minor stuff I can share later.  Good luck with your projects everybody.

It sure looks like you got almost all the rust out of the gas tank. In spite of all that work you've done, do you expect to use an extra fuel filter? Maybe something pretty big to collect random leftover bits of rust that might be hiding, but still allow fuel to flow. I'm just wondering if it'll take a while before there's no more risk of contamination...and I'm wondering if a standard fuel filter would be up to the challenge. Or does the fogging oil create a permanent sealant barrier inside the tank?

Gebruiker, 1/13/2021 at 3:00 PM

It sure looks like you got almost all the rust out of the gas tank. In spite of all that work you've done, do you expect to use an extra fuel filter? Maybe something pretty big to collect random leftover bits of rust that might be hiding, but still allow fuel to flow. I'm just wondering if it'll take a while before there's no more risk of contamination...and I'm wondering if a standard fuel filter would be up to the challenge. Or does the fogging oil create a permanent sealant barrier inside the tank?

The vinegar really did a good job of dissolving the rust so no plans to run an extra fuel filter as I really don't expect there will be many flakes or chunks breaking loose.  I understand where you are going in that I do want a large semi-transparent fuel filter to check for contaminates and blocking....good thing Honda already designed one into the bike!  The stock style filter should work well for filtering anything out and it's my only filter because I do not have one in-tank.  I am going to keep an extra filter under the seat though!!

The fogging oil is just oil protecting the raw steel, it will wash away once filled with gas the first time.

Fitting body panels back on the bike.  Having to repair and glue a few places, touch up the red paint which isn't easy.  Also put a coat of black on dash surround pieces because they were badly stained and not looking too good.

Tires soon, saving for dead last, I bought a set back in October when I found a good sale.

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Oh and the new R/R is working great!  14.5v at start up with a brand new battery (charged but never run), then settled down to a steady 13.8-13.9v.

Bike was not charging at all when I got it and had no battery.

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Here is why I had to paint dash surround bits.  I don't mind old looking, but this is damage so had to freshen it up.

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Following up rebuilds like yours are both inspiring and depressing. They give me an idea of what my bike is supposed to be like and at the same time give me an idea that my bike is never going to be like that. 🙂

Gebruiker, 1/27/2021 at 1:50 PM

Following up rebuilds like yours are both inspiring and depressing. They give me an idea of what my bike is supposed to be like and at the same time give me an idea that my bike is never going to be like that. 🙂

What does your bike still need or what would you like to upgrade?

Mechanically I think my bike is in good shape (now), but until I ride it and run it through the gears I can’t say for sure. Cosmetically it is “ok”, stand back 10 feet and it looks good. 

21 hours ago, mtnpat

What does your bike still need or what would you like to upgrade?

Mechanically I think my bike is in good shape, but until I ride it and run it through the gears I can’t say for sure. Cosmetically it is “ok”, stand back 10 feet and it looks good. 

What I think my bike needs mostly is a more proficient owner... 😁  But bit by bit I've managed to cobble it into better shape than when I got it. Cosmetics were always going to be the hard part because they'd been neglected, and they are an ongoing project when I get bored. 10 feet? More like 50... Mechanically I lucked out on mine. I give credit to Honda for that and the previous owners. I never had to tear into it the way you chose to do on yours. So I'm happy and confident enough riding the thing right now. Still, upgrade jobs occur to me all the time. I should really sort out the R/R stator circuit, as you've done. Repack and polish my yosh...as you have done. Things like that. If I ever decide on renovation to a higher standard, your thread will be one of the inspirations. Thanks for posting! Let us know when you get some rides in.

18 hours ago, Gebruiker

Let us know when you get some rides in.

I definitely will, I'm looking forward to riding the VFR750!

My other Honda V4 sport touring bike is 750 lbs dry and is my favorite street bike to ride.  I'm thinking a 550 lb Honda V4 sport touring bike is going to be really nice!  I'm hoping it's a cross between my ST1100 and my wife's SV650 with a similar aluminum frame to the VFR, and a 90-degree twin which is an awesome engine. 

I'm going to give my gas tank another vinegar treatment this weekend because using my bore scope I have discovered some rust on the ceiling of the tank that did not get soaked when I filled the tank.

When filled sitting upright, you can't actually completely fill it and touch all parts of the inside of the tank because the filler neck is lower than the ceiling of the tank.

I will be cleaning out the layer of preservative oil currently in the tank and adding 2-3 gallons of vinegar and this time turning the tank over so that the top of the inside of tank gets covered with vinegar and the rust dissolved.

Have you looked at using a battery charger and getting all the rust out by electrolysis?

This is one of many YouTube videos 

8 minutes ago, Thumbs

Have you looked at using a battery charger and getting all the rust out by electrolysis?

This is one of many YouTube videos 

I've done this many times.  It's easy, cheap, and doesn't harm the paint at all.  It's pretty amazing.

Unfortunately, that ceiling rust will come back because top of tank is always exposed to air & moisture. I recommend POR-15 fuel tank sealer after you get last bits of rust out. I've had very good experiences on old classic autos with steel tanks.

5 hours ago, Thumbs

Have you looked at using a battery charger and getting all the rust out by electrolysis?

This is one of many YouTube videos 

I have thought about it and was planning to go this route if necessary. The vinegar did a great job of dissolving the rust so I am thinking I won’t have to. 

5 hours ago, DannoXYZ

Unfortunately, that ceiling rust will come back because top of tank is always exposed to air & moisture. I recommend POR-15 fuel tank sealer after you get last bits of rust out. I've had very good experiences on old classic autos with steel tanks.

You’re right, thanks for talking me into it. I just ordered a tank sealer kit.

No reason to not do it right. 
 

I’m going to go ahead with my second treatment with vinegar, but this time after flushing and drying the tank I will coat the inside. 

Spring is approaching and a mans (and woman's) thoughts turn to motorcycles.  I was able to get some parts I have been needing and now I have hope that I will be able to ride the VFR for the first time soon.  Here are some quick but exciting for me updates.

First off, some of you may remember this:

[image: IMG_5084.thumb.JPG.6e153d673f9ac8aa7ec00762c4f1a397.JPG]

[image: IMG_5079.thumb.JPG.3264edf64348dfb4713a48c8ee6316fb.JPG]

Not that attractive and half-ass functional, my plan was to tape it up properly and make do. Well @RC1237V saw that and was like I can help this person, so without my asking RC1237V offered to send me an airbox lid that did NOT have 15 holes drilled it....we would swap and I would send him the holy one.  His thoughts was since my bike was mostly stock and was likely going to remain that way it deserves a nice factory piece.  What a great way of thinking and I was like heck yea, thank you.  Now I have this:

[image: 1746675997_ImageuploadedfromiOS(1).thumb.jpg.765293fdc58637c5b27d950737ef486b.jpg] 

[image: 1744931099_ImageuploadedfromiOS(2).thumb.jpg.3bf4af1bd7391019652d906b93221c7d.jpg]

I did finally figure out what the holes in the lid are for.....they are to hold spanners 🙂

[image: IMG_6111.jpg.c12e1de65153b01f6835d3af0ac279c0.jpg]

The key piece I was missing though for this bike was a windshield, you see mine looked like this:

[image: AF2DCADD-C1CF-42FF-8C8A-78DD2D74920E.thumb.jpeg.561ab3ed6eb9b2b0ae1c6841fc6d513a.jpeg]

That stain is on the inside.  While I had the screen off fixing things I tried wet sanding with some 600 grit and it did not even touch it, that is when I gave up.  Then I remembered that RC1237V had one or two bikes that were being converted to naked street fighters and that he mentioned somewhere about having extra parts.  I reached out and we came up with a great deal on a windscreen, heck he even threw in some dash surround parts for free which was really nice.  I think this is much better:

[image: 1294942852_ImageuploadedfromiOS.thumb.jpg.b65547c0bf5b626bdee8cedcc2497a72.jpg]

Just a couple of things left to do.  The first is taking another swing at the gas tank, I'm going to clean the inside again and then seal it.  I bought this recently.  It looks to be pretty time consuming to do it right so I need to blank off most of a day, as good a reason as any to take a vacation day:

[image: 875101047_ImageuploadedfromiOS(3).thumb.jpg.8fe80c9898793d7a694e46de91743e9d.jpg]

Then it will be time to replace the 12 year old tires with these Metzlers that I found at a great price ($205 shipped).  I will post up when I do.  I have a home made bead breaker that has served me well for years.  For  mounting the new tires on the rims I have found the zip tie method to work amazingly well.

[image: IMG_5348.thumb.JPG.6ca3899d472909bb1ad4022fbc4658c2.JPG]

Get all that done and I just need something to put here:

[image: 225904236_ImageuploadedfromiOS(4).thumb.jpg.59d273533dd57986b65d1d5dab2c703e.jpg]

I have an appointment with the Virginia DMV next month.  I wonder if the state safety inspector will say anything about the red turn signal lenses?  They are hooked up and work but are not amber.  I do have the add-on set of amber turn signals that bolt so if I have to to pass inspection I can put those on.

Thanks for reading, good luck with your riding, bike builds and 2021.

Rear turn signals are not required to be amber.  Just think of all of the vehicles (including new Harleys) with just red taillights that also function as the signals.  What is illegal, is to wire rear amber signals as running lights, but I have never heard of any motorcyclist getting grief for it.

I believe Honda added the "extra" signals because the DOT requirements of how far apart they needed to be were ridiculous at the time.   God, some of those rear turn signal stays were LONG in the 80s and early 90s.

I was in Germany in the early 90s and bought a set of amber VFR lenses to bring back with me.  I sold those same lenses 3 times for well over $100, as they kept coming back on trade-ins.  Then I would swap in some red ones, and re-sell.  😉

Then in 1994 those signals were integrated in amber on the VFR.  The gig was up.

12 minutes ago, Captain 80s

Rear turn signals are not required to be amber.  Just think of all of the vehicles with just red taillights that also function as the signals.

That would be good.

I was wondering if the red lenses are US spec and the amber ones Euro?  I have seen pics of both.  I wouldn't mine a set of the amber ones.

5 hours ago, mtnpat

That would be good.

I was wondering if the red lenses are US spec and the amber ones Euro?  I have seen pics of both.  I wouldn't mine a set of the amber ones.

It would appear so. My 91 I had in England a few years back had amber lenses, and as Capt. 80's pointed out so did the German bikes.

The 94 - 97 VFR lenses are the the exact same lens as 90-93 , but amber.

Indicators must flash orange over here.

Yes, you may fit white lenses/housings, as long as the bulb itself is orange...

[image: image.png.37d37bcde777721d0837d3aa89fdf26d.png]

[image: image.png.b636d7cefcb63ea31dc83f28b0c7bfcc.png]

What an awesome adventure this has been to read about. The bike looks brilliant and I'm super impressed with everything you've done to it.

As my '93 is sitting naked and tankless at the moment this is really inspiring me to try and get as much care and repair done as possible. Sadly my lack of any ability, knowledge, a garage to work in or much in the way of tools is going to limit it to plugs, filters and rubber hoses as much as I can. This is still a big step up from adding petrol, my previous best effort at bike maintenance 🙂

First, @moroseduck, thanks for the kind words.  And if you are able to change spark plugs and hoses you are doing good. You don't need a lot of tools to work on a quality bike such as your Honda, eventually if you can gather up a good metric socket and wrench set, two torque wrenches of different ranges, some feeler gauges and a multimeter you can troubleshoot and fix most things on a VFR.  Not many specialty tools are needed unless you get into rebuilding engines and transmissions.  So good luck and post up any questions, I'm sure someone here will answer.

NEXT - my 91 model VFR is tagged and on the road now!!  I've done two rides, the first only 15 miles, the second 40 miles.  The bike has performed pretty flawlessly.  The K&L fuel pump is doing it's job nicely, so is the Shindengen voltage regulator/rectifier and Yuasa battery..  The sealed gas tank is doing it's job too, no contaminated fuel or fuel filter.

The engine sounds great and I have not found any flat spots in the power yet, the tune I have started with and the carb sync seems pretty close to being on the money.  Starts and idles well, revs fast and smooth.  I'm pretty impressed with the 6-speed transmission too, nice solid shifts, even when I miff the shift.

Two oil changes already with 15W40 Rotella-T, one when I initially dumped the overfilled crankcase and once again after the first 15 mile ride I did.

The re-packed Yoshimura exhaust I am pleased to announce is in my opinion is not too loud, it has a nice tone and doesn't get rowdy until you get up to 6-7k RPMs, just cruising around it is not obnoxious.

The Brembo front brakes are working well, providing good modulation and power, I haven't had to really test them yet (thank goodness), just a few hard stops.

The suspension is ok, the shock actually feels decent for my weight (165 lbs) and riding style, it has both compression and rebound damping in the amounts I want (a touch more rebound than compression) and the spring rate is not bad.  The fork does not have the stock spring because it came with the bike extra, so probably an aftermarket spring was installed at some point.  The fork needs more spring rate for me as it has too much sag and I'm not really feeling the front end.  My plan is to freshen up the fork oil and at the same time check and see what springs are in there and how much spacer.  I'm thinking about adding a fork cap that includes some preload adjustment, that should make tuning easier.

Anyway, without further ado, here are some pictures!!!

[image: vfr2.thumb.jpeg.70fdb51f459990474b3351c93a9d43f1.jpeg]

[image: vfr6.thumb.jpeg.eaa71ef5c5450138142f52285b54a887.jpeg]

Here is a shot in the garage while I was still working on it.  I went with a stock 170/60-17 rear tire and am glad I did, I think it looked stupid with the 180/55-17 it had on it.  You are a 750...be proud of what you are! No need to go all American Chopper on these bikes.  Just my opinion.

[image: vfr4.thumb.jpeg.a3f7f0179f7eaf595801ae18fdbf5c38.jpeg]

Now I just need to find some new people to ride with!  Open invitation, anyone who would like a tour of the twisty rolling roads in and around the Shenandoah Valley of Virginia let me know.

Thanks again to everyone who has chimed in, showed support or just followed along during the VFR build.  Please let me know if I can help anyone with anything.  I'm in Virginia 85 miles West of Washington DC just South of Front Royal.

I've been waiting for this last report! Thanks again for all your upgrade posts. The bike came out great. And Shenandoah has got to be terrific territory for a VFR. Have fun. 🙂

42 minutes ago, Gebruiker

I've been waiting for this last report! Thanks again for all your upgrade posts. The bike came out great. And Shenandoah has got to be terrific territory for a VFR. Have fun. 🙂

Thanks Gebruiker.  Good to hear from you.

I plan to have the bike totally legal with a state safety inspection before too long so that my wife does not frown at me when I say I want to go for a ride.....I actually have 5 bikes with expired stickers....what a pain in the backside.  Can't wait to get the VFR out to really stretch it's legs, compare it to my ZRX1100, etc.  Hope to be posting some scenic mountain riding pics early this Summer!

Wow, looks awesome! Very thorough restoration, with attention to detail. I enjoyed seeing your progress!

Also please post a link to where you found that fuel pump....😁

Sorry to post on an older thread, but that bike looks great!  I had to take a break and I'm finally back to work on my '92!  

I finally got around to taking pictures of the ZRX and thanks to Danno I know how to load them now. You mentioned you wanted to see the bike so here goes.

Well 2 of them don't want to seem to resize so I guess this is it.

mtnpat, 4/9/2021 at 6:40 PM

First, @moroseduck, thanks for the kind words.  And if you are able to change spark plugs and hoses you are doing good. You don't need a lot of tools to work on a quality bike such as your Honda, eventually if you can gather up a good metric socket and wrench set, two torque wrenches of different ranges, some feeler gauges and a multimeter you can troubleshoot and fix most things on a VFR.  Not many specialty tools are needed unless you get into rebuilding engines and transmissions.  So good luck and post up any questions, I'm sure someone here will answer.

NEXT - my 91 model VFR is tagged and on the road now!!  I've done two rides, the first only 15 miles, the second 40 miles.  The bike has performed pretty flawlessly.  The K&L fuel pump is doing it's job nicely, so is the Shindengen voltage regulator/rectifier and Yuasa battery..  The sealed gas tank is doing it's job too, no contaminated fuel or fuel filter.

The engine sounds great and I have not found any flat spots in the power yet, the tune I have started with and the carb sync seems pretty close to being on the money.  Starts and idles well, revs fast and smooth.  I'm pretty impressed with the 6-speed transmission too, nice solid shifts, even when I miff the shift.

Two oil changes already with 15W40 Rotella-T, one when I initially dumped the overfilled crankcase and once again after the first 15 mile ride I did.

The re-packed Yoshimura exhaust I am pleased to announce is in my opinion is not too loud, it has a nice tone and doesn't get rowdy until you get up to 6-7k RPMs, just cruising around it is not obnoxious.

The Brembo front brakes are working well, providing good modulation and power, I haven't had to really test them yet (thank goodness), just a few hard stops.

The suspension is ok, the shock actually feels decent for my weight (165 lbs) and riding style, it has both compression and rebound damping in the amounts I want (a touch more rebound than compression) and the spring rate is not bad.  The fork does not have the stock spring because it came with the bike extra, so probably an aftermarket spring was installed at some point.  The fork needs more spring rate for me as it has too much sag and I'm not really feeling the front end.  My plan is to freshen up the fork oil and at the same time check and see what springs are in there and how much spacer.  I'm thinking about adding a fork cap that includes some preload adjustment, that should make tuning easier.

Anyway, without further ado, here are some pictures!!!

[image: vfr2.thumb.jpeg.70fdb51f459990474b3351c93a9d43f1.jpeg]

[image: vfr6.thumb.jpeg.eaa71ef5c5450138142f52285b54a887.jpeg]

Here is a shot in the garage while I was still working on it.  I went with a stock 170/60-17 rear tire and am glad I did, I think it looked stupid with the 180/55-17 it had on it.  You are a 750...be proud of what you are! No need to go all American Chopper on these bikes.  Just my opinion.

[image: vfr4.thumb.jpeg.a3f7f0179f7eaf595801ae18fdbf5c38.jpeg]

Now I just need to find some new people to ride with!  Open invitation, anyone who would like a tour of the twisty rolling roads in and around the Shenandoah Valley of Virginia let me know.

Thanks again to everyone who has chimed in, showed support or just followed along during the VFR build.  Please let me know if I can help anyone with anything.  I'm in Virginia 85 miles West of Washington DC just South of Front Royal.

She's a looker!  :wub:

Checking in from VA....I still have the VFR, ridden it a few more times, got a few more things sorted.  Only one recent stupid moment. 

Got the 750 out for a couple of 50 mile or so rides late summer, I really like the bike, a lot different than my ZRX1100 and ST1100.  Anyways pics to prove it happened and everybody likes pics...I have been using it to run errands and such.

[image: IMG_6790.thumb.JPG.1d348fe81735186fbd62a100612982f0.JPG]

[image: IMG_6882.thumb.JPG.7d0bc1da6804b4e1b8c68746951735de.JPG]

[image: IMG_6795.thumb.JPG.c1db9427bcb91f5202ed5f4393233837.JPG]

As far as continuing to get things sorted, after checking the spark plugs I went ahead and put the cooling fan back on the radiator, I didn't really need it for the rides I was doing so waited to re-install it after having it off while working on the engine.

The other thing that needed sorting was my lack of a working petcock situation.  Some may remember that my bike came with a gutted, missing pieces shell of a petcock so I was just using it as a way to get fuel from the tank but not to shut off the flow of fuel when removing the tank.

[image: IMG_6852.thumb.JPG.37cef763fae12400e50b144b302d119b.JPG]

It works great but I needed a way to shut off the fuel.  I looked at a few different inline options but didn't like any of them.  I thought about fitting a Pingel brand petcock to the tank but that option is pricy and would require I make an adapter plate.  While surfing the net I found an inline disconnect that goes in a fuel line and shuts off the flow when disconnected.  So far it has worked out well.....fits in the space and doesn't leak, flow rate is acceptable with an 1/4" ID.  A couple of pics, on the bench and then installed.

[image: IMG_6834.thumb.JPG.85f4a25a187cf0d90f25bf3c31991069.JPG]

[image: IMG_6837.thumb.JPG.8bbd59fba47a5c6c519aa9fbcd50cc70.JPG]

[image: IMG_6849.thumb.JPG.1ef15c655e737442633acc8c5788e3d6.JPG]

[image: IMG_6859.thumb.JPG.c7cc197d58a8c95ab72e8753e846f69a.JPG]

Oh and the stupid moment.....well that happens when you get ready to go for a ride, check your oil, coolant, tire pressure and then forget to put gas in the tank AND you don't have a working gas gauge because you had not yet procured a new fuel tank sending unit to replace the one that came on the bike that looked like it had been on the bottom of the North Atlantic with the Titanic.  The wife graciously rescued me and brought me gas but I really hated bothering her while relaxing.  Yea that was a dumb ass move.  Funny how you can forget to add gas as you get all excited to go for and start your ride, but it only takes a fraction of a second to realize what you didn't do as the bike coughs and stops running - OOPS.

I have since fixed this situation, replacing what I had that was basically just a blank off plate, with a functioning sending unit.

[image: IMG_6823.thumb.JPG.49a4f46e7a8abf0cd79546f70477748a.JPG]

[image: IMG_6819.thumb.JPG.b7d7fc5d122fa9704b66007a50e86d77.JPG]

Oh and the KBS gas tank sealer/liner I used is still holding up well.  Here is a pic.  The pinhead size bubbles are from my not doing the application 100% correct, bubbles appear where the coating ends up too think and the solvents are trying to gas off and weren't able to because of the thicker application.  I tried, I literally spent hours rotating and draining off excess sealer but it's hard not to get some build up.  You want to avoid bubbles because that is a place where the liner could break down, so far it has not, I am thinking it would only be a problem with large bubbles.  Anyway, again, the KBS product has done the job well in that it cleaned out the rust, prepped and then sealed the tank well.

[image: IMG_6854.thumb.JPG.627a1e9addbeab5d0adec428ac5a655a.JPG]

That's about it for me.  Once again if anyone wants to do a ride in the Shenandoah Valley there is still plenty of good Fall riding weather left so just send me a message or something, available most weekdays or weekends.

This is a really helpful thread! Please don't forget to add occasional comments and updates.

51 minutes ago, Gebruiker

This is a really helpful thread! Please don't forget to add occasional comments and updates.

I agree, please add updates. Gives me some good ideas.  I really like the fuel quick disconnect!

The CPC fuel line quick disconnect is nice, but make sure you have the one with Viton o-rings (they make two types), as that is the only one that is fuel-rated.

Ciao,

JZH

Nice thread and timely too. I recently purchase a 92 VFR and plan on going through it like you did with yours. The first thing I did was ditch the tank bra! Lol [image: 1339549085_92VFR.thumb.jpg.c4699f0ab7612e0c3796f6fd3bb1ccef.jpg]

That's beautiful. Any body bras are a mixed bag. I used to run them all on my olf FJs!

19 hours ago, bmart

That's beautiful. Any body bras are a mixed bag. I used to run them all on my olf FJs!

Thanks!

The 'ol Kerker left-exit half-system... I bet it's loud!

Ciao,

JZH

I love the Kerker on my CB-1. Lovely when I'm going through the mountains and there's a wall of earth on the right! Tunnels sound great too. 

3 hours ago, bmart

I love the Kerker on my CB-1. Lovely when I'm going through the mountains and there's a wall of earth on the right! Tunnels sound great too. 

FYI, back in the 80ties in Germany, when you had a Kerker pipe on your bike, you were the baddest bad ass! It was like the "arrest me red!" Well, good old memories.

Not sure if this will load...

1 hour ago, bmart

Not sure if this will load...

MVI_0135.AVI

Couldn't locate item 🤦🏻‍♂️ 

Will try a smaller file size of the beast R1 before I sold it as a test. 

Not sure what the file size limit is.