Yet Another (BUDGET) Street Fighter Build

Hooked up the dash wiring, oil light, neutral light, high beam light, turn indicators, shift lights, tach, fuel gauge, and speedo all work as planned. I won't know if the low fuel light works until I get low on fuel. I will still need to program the gear indicator once I can ride it for more than a few minutes, without wires hanging everywhere...

Also have to try to remove and replace the temp sensor without taking the tank and carbs off. Looks like I might have a shot at success...

The protective film is still on the gauge, so it looks kinda funky...

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Had to cut out a section of the SALVAGE TITLE frame to clear the headlight connector. There was about 1/8", but I would rather be safe than sorry. I rigged up a jig using some parts from the RC51 Tuono ignition lock. Worked out well...

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The only issue I ran into was the high beam and low beam only work if both relays are in place, even though I only have one bulb. I don't know if the bulb is different from the VFR, or if I can wire it differently. I try to put the VFR bulb in tomorrow, and see if that helps. Otherwise I may just have to leave both relays intact. I will use the NASA method recommended by Danno to shorten up all the wires tomorrow. I made a print for my headlight bracket so I can mill that out on Monday. Just have to tidy up some stuff and front will be done for now. I will eventually make some side panels, mount the fuse box, and make a coolant tank.

Here's a short video to prove it runs... 😀

Almost forgot....NOW it's time for some refreshment!

No beer when reading wiring diagrams....

Looking good. I love the sound of that bike.  :beer:

Coming along nicely! 👋

Dual headlight relays are more complicated than necessary. I can work up simple diagram for you to use single Bosch/ISO 5-pin relay for both low & high beam. Can eliminate at least 2-miles of wiring that way. Get one of these socket+relay kits:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N66W2XF/

We will remove this entire relay+headlights circuit and replace with single relay + single headlight.

[image: 1993-1997_VFR750-headlightsUpdate.thumb.png.bf7f98a51f24849e289fefd8e4ff2b82.png]

Ok, here's wiring reduced to single headlight and single relay (wiring-colours are from this kit). Only side-effect is no headlight shutoff when cranking engine. But shouldn't be problem, it's worked this way on my CBR600RR for past 15-years without any issue.

[image: 1993-1997_VFR750-headlightSingle.thumb.png.5685c1c6decef0fd0eb94b99a830ad08.png]

You can remove one headlight circuit completely and most of both relay circuits. Leaving just enough to connect to new relay. Might want to mount relay securely first, then figure which wire and lengths you needed to reach.

Bu = high-beam trigger from dimmer-switch to white on relay-socket

Green = ground to black

Bl/R = +12 power-feed from fusebox to red

W/Bl = low-beam filament to yellow

Bu/Bl = high-beam filament to blue

Thanks Danno, I am trying to simplify as much as possible, so that will help. There are so many wires for this bike...here's how it looked this morning...

I wrapped each connector bundle, and have some braided sheathing when I finish the last few details. Some progress made...

2 hours ago, DannoXYZ

Ok, here's wiring reduced to single headlight and single relay (wiring-colours are from this kit). Only side-effect is no headlight shutoff when cranking engine. But shouldn't be problem, it's worked this way on my CBR600RR for past 15-years without any issue.

[image: 1993-1997_VFR750-headlightSingle.thumb.png.71deae4c34ac65b3c9300bd76dff596d.png]

You can remove one headlight circuit completely and most of both relay circuits. Leaving just enough to connect to new relay. Might want to mount relay securely first, then figure which wire and lengths you needed to reach.

Bu = high-beam trigger from dimmer-switch to yellow on relay-socket

Green = ground to white

Bl/R = +12 power-feed from fusebox to black

W/Bl = low-beam filament to white

Bu/Bl = high-beam filament to cyan

Hey Danno thats a great Relay Kit. But according to the colour code on the web site for the relay, it doesn't match your drawing.

The two coil wires are the 16awg wires being the Black 85 should go to Green (ground) on blike, and the White 86 should go to Blue (hi beam select) on bike.

Relay contacts 12awg wires are the Red, Yellow and Blue.

- Common 30 is Red. Should go to Black/Red on bike. (Bulb power)

- Normally Closed 87a is Yellow. Should go to White/Black on bike. (Lo beam)

- Normally Open 87 is Blue. Should go to Blue/Black on bike. (Hi beam)

Perhaps the web site is wrong! Bit confusing, needs checking.

Cheers.

[image: 81lDLvxgguL._AC_SL1500_.jpg]

[image: 71ZzDkOSWgL._AC_SL1500_.jpg]

darn, i may have downloaded wrong image. I'll double-check. Thanks for heads-up! :computer-noworky:

EDIT: I've updated wire-colours to match relay-kit.

Note that I'm always trying to update to better-than-stock specs. In this case, relay is sealed to prevent moisture and corrosion.

10 hours ago, RC1237V

Thanks Danno, I am trying to simplify as much as possible, so that will help. There are so many wires for this bike...here's how it looked this morning...

10 hours ago, RC1237V

I wrapped each connector bundle, and have some braided sheathing when I finish the last few details. Some progress made...

Coming along nicely! Very tidy work, I like it!!! :)

Some products that may help you:

silicone electrical tape - won't dry up and get crispy like regular vinyl or PVC-based tape. However, my oldest sample is 5-yrs old, so not sure how it holds up to my 50-year standard.

adhesive shrink-wrap tape - for those times when you've got connectors already attached and want to seal up wiring and joints upstream.

Awesome, thanks! I did not know they made heat shrink tape - good to know! I will get an LED flasher relay too, so my turn signals don't hyper-flash.

Have to rebuild the forks on the 12Hundo, and have the oil, seals, and bushings, so hopefully get that done tomorrow. The parts finally came in for the tank, so might get that done this weekend too. Final headlight bracket might be awhile, as work is really busy now...

Working on some beers right now.  😋

BTW, this is the beer section of the grocery store where I get my brew....

1 hour ago, RC1237V

BTW, this is the beer section of the grocery store where I get my brew....

20210112_175221.mp4

WOW, that’s a big selection for sure. 
 

Cheers 🍻 

VFRs and beer, two of my favourite topics. This thread delivers 👌

I will need some of that wiring info for one of my own projects so thanks for sharing, Danno.

Work has been slammed, so not a ton of progress. Did get the temp sensor in without taking the carbs off! Installed the magnets in the rotor bolts and tested - both work! 

Someone really beat up the air horns, or velocity stacks on this bike...

Anyone know if the coils need to be grounded? These little "grounding brackets" make me think they should be, although it runs fine just hanging off the bike...and the other bracket is why the VFR's were so heavy and expensive. Engineering overkill......

And no, I didn't forget - enjoying this tonight - Smoke and Mirrors from Revision in Reno....top notch!

13 hours ago, RC1237V

Someone really beat up the air horns, or velocity stacks on this bike...

[image: 20210121_170513.jpg]

[image: 20210121_170519.jpg]

[image: 20210121_170522.jpg]

[image: 20210121_170545.jpg]

WTF?

People have never heard of a rubber mallet?  And why would you need to beat on them anyway, I guess somebody totally disassembled the carbs at some point and was trying to re-attach the stacks. It almost looks like somebody was hitting them with a punch. 

40 minutes ago, mtnpat

WTF?

People have never heard of a rubber mallet?  And why would you need to beat on them anyway, I guess somebody totally disassembled the carbs at some point and was trying to re-attach the stacks. It almost looks like somebody was hitting them with a punch. 

Looks like somebody repeatedly dropping them down in the driveway upside down on the stacks.

15 minutes ago, Captain 80s

Looks like somebody repeatedly dropping them down in the driveway upside down on the stacks.

Plus 1 on that. It's amazing how clueless and uncaring people can be.

3 hours ago, Captain 80s

Looks like somebody repeatedly dropping them down in the driveway upside down on the stacks.

I can see that. Maybe they “worked” on the carbs upside-down on their driveway. You know, for a solid base. 

Hopefully it will add .001 horsepower through turbulence, like the dimples on a golf ball for extra loft during flight.

loving this build, I just bought a 3rd gen to do a street fighter. Thanks for the details about the fork installation, Im definitely doing that. Whats your thoughts for exhaust? Going under tail? Cheers from Australia.

I thought about undertail, but as the title says BUDGET, I think I will just go with a shorty pipe. Also most undertail exhaust bike are known for roasting your arse.

I am at a standstill for the moment as big storms are rolling through, and my garage is packed with bikes, tools, and a car. Work is off the hook busy as well, so overtime will help with any parts I may need to buy. Still waiting for some machine time to get the headlight bracket made.

Post progress of your work, and don't be afraid to ask the collective for help - it's like having a super computer at your disposal!

You've already got your wiring sorted, but I came across a recent video for rewiring that might be generally helpful to others. Maybe. Some helpful tips if you have 20 minutes. The guy talks mostly of rewiring cars, but includes bikes in his approach. I didn't ask for linking permission...so if there's a problem, we might hear about that too.

Not much action lately as work has been really busy, and I picked up some side work as well. Also the weather has been crummy, for CA at least.

 I did buy a 5th/6th gen rear wheel, and will notch it to fit, then powder coat it gloss black. To me the 3ed gen wheel look is lost a bit on a street fighter, but the square-spoked 5/6 gen looks tough. Also if they ( 3rd gen rear wheels) are not white, they don't POP, and they are hard to come by these days. Actually the neon green one on Brian F's old bike had plenty of POP!

I bought a few trick parts for the red bike project as well, but I won't get started on that until the street fighter is done!

Had a little free time today, so I washed the wheels, as I don't want to get grease and grime in the sandblaster at work. The original and the Ebay wheel had to soak with simple green, as the back sides of the spokes had never been washed. I will post up the wheel mod, as soon as I can get to it.

Hey, looking good!!  

be careful about soaking any bare metal in Simple Green for too long...

Yep, etches it right up, same as citrus degreaser...

Both bikes wheels' have corrosion, from brake dust, and being left outside for years on end...

Be extremely careful with the stuff. Dilute it lots and never leave on for too long!

Simple Green doesn't just etch, but causes hydrogen-embrittlement and outright dissolves metal. Discovered this about 20-years ago on bicycle-racing forums where chains soaked in Simple Green comes out cracked with pieces missing!!! When I brought this up to Simple Green, they added warning on their website:

https://simplegreen.com/industrial/faqs/

Quote

However, caution and common sense must be used: aluminum is a soft metal that easily corrodes with unprotected exposure to water. The aqueous-base and alkalinity of Simple Green All-Purpose Cleaner can accelerate the corrosion process.

Therefore, contact times for unprotected or unpainted aluminum surfaces should be kept as brief as the job will allow - never for more than 10 minutes. ...

Simple Green has also developed break-through water based cleaners that are safe for use on metals, plastics, rubber and high tech alloys. Extreme Simple Green Aircraft & Precision Cleaner, Pro Series Simple Green Automotive Cleaner, and Simple Green Pro HD are available on both the industrial and retail markets, respectively.

U.S. Army, Air Force and FAA discovered same (planes and helicopter falling out of sky) and issued orders forbidding its use on aircraft.

http://www.chinook-helicopter.com/maintenance/issues/cleaners/cleaners.html

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/parts-washer-solvent-recommendations.811853/#post-9010627

https://crc.army.mil/MediaAndPubs/magazines/flightfax/2005_issues/ffnovdec05.pdf

Quote

It has been brought to the attention of the AMCOM Depot Maintenance Engineering Team that numerous units are using the commercial product “Simple Green®” as an aircraft wash. STOP! This product has been through DoD testing and was determined to be highly corrosive on aircraft aluminum. It can also be a catalyst for hydrogen embrittlement in high strength aircraft alloys. While it’s a highly effective cleaning agent for floors and non-aluminum/non high-strength alloy vehicles, this product is not approved for aviation usage. If your unit has been using Simple Green® on a regular basis, it is recommended a thorough freshwater wash with the approved cleaners per the appropriate airframe maintenance manuals be accomplished as soon as practicable. This should be followed by a corrosion inspection / treatment and application of approved corrosion prevention compounds.

—POC is Richard Cardinale.
He may be contacted at DSN 861-4041 (361-961-4041) or e-mail corrosion@amcomcc.army.mil.

https://crcapps2.crc.army.mil/warrior_stories/warrior_story.asp?lessonid=2004930-42

https://forum.miata.net/vb/showpost.php?p=925384&postcount=1

http://www.avweb.com/newswire/news0020b.html

Quote

It's Simple -- Don't Use This To Clean Aircraft

A well-known aviation magazine this month published a feature article on cleaning one's aircraft and getting it ready for spring flying. Only one problem -- a product the article recommended as safe for aviation use has been proven corrosive to aluminum. The product is Simple Green, a popular household cleaning liquid. According to the magazine's May issue -- which included a photo of Simple Green and other products -- the liquid "does an admirable job for a fraction of the cost of the aviation cleaners." While that may be true as far as it goes, both the U.S. Air Force and the U.S. Army have conducted tests of Simple Green and strongly urge that it not be used to clean aluminum structures. In one test conducted by the U.S. Air Force, results from which were published in 1989, aluminum alloy samples were immersed in Simple Green for a week then removed, cleaned and weighed. The results indicated that the approximately 3.5-gram aluminum alloy samples experienced a material loss of about 31 milligrams in a diluted solution and a whopping 295 milligram loss after spending a week in the undiluted liquid. The Air Force report summed it up this way: "We do not recommend the use of this product on Air Force equipment containing aluminum." Good advice, that.

Wow, did not know it was that aggressive...any other suggestions for heavy duty cleaning off years worth of stuck-on-crud?

WD-40 is my go to for chain goo. I generally used simple green also for cleaning. I never let it sit on a part as it was spray, scrub, and rinse. I didn't know about how bad it could be either.

One of things learned in my o-chem classes was "like dissolves like". Personally, I think it's futile to make an aqueous (polar) solution try to dissolve non-polar compounds (oil & grease). A polar solvent works much better. Yeah, I like WD-40 also, or kerosene.

You have been pretty quiet for awhile. Hope everything is going ok.

Thanks for the concern Jefferson! Yes, went through some pretty tough times with the wife (her health) and then loosing her job, and medical insurance. Things were looking pretty dark, and couldn't ride for awhile. I had to do some deep soul searching, and lots of medical assessing since western medicine seems to only focus on curing symptoms, not causes. We are on the right track now, and doing well. Because of some covid rules at her employer, we got the medical insurance re-instated for a few months at least. So at now I can continue riding ( my therapy ).

Also been insanely busy at work, so have not had time to make the parts to continue on my project. I will still give you the part(s) you needed when I get back on the SF project and start working on the back of the bike. I was enjoying your posts as well as Pat's while I was in my dark place, so that was something I looked forward to - reading the progress of all the other projects while I could not work on the bike. 

I just have to make a bunch of brackets, and the front will be complete, as everything works, it's just not long road trip worthy. The rear is just mounting the tailsection and adapting the 929 shock. After that, just a decent coat of paint, so hopefully I will be done before, or right around summer time. 

sounds like things have been a bit crap for you and your wife, hope it works out for you both and the bike gets finished

Sorry to hear that. Hopefully she will be back to good health soon and I know what you mean about symptoms over causes.

Echoing scottbot and jefferson, I hope things go well for you in 2021.

Your bike(s) will be there for you when you are ready, meanwhile good to hear from you and thanks again for the windscreen 😎

Really enjoyed reading through this thread, what you've done and are doing is awesome. 

When I trashed the plastics on my gen 3 last year I gave some thought to going streetfighter as its so hard to get replacement parts in the UK that aren't also busted. I quickly realised however that making a good looking streetfighter was completely beyond my ability, and seeing all that you've done has definitely confirmed that! 

I hope things continue to improve for you and your wife this year, and that you get the chance to finish this project. 

Thanks for the words of encouragement! Yes things are getting much better and we are looking at life from the best perspective possible given the circumstances. I try to make the best decisions, but sometimes life has other plans, and have recently learned to sail" through life, rather than "row" as it is much less work. Instead of trying to push life around, and fight the universe, I just use gentle nudges to try to guide it in the direction I would like it to go. 

Getting back on topic, I have a small electrical issue on the RC51 to sort, then back to the SF project. Also getting caught up at work, so I should be able to make my brackets in the next few weeks.

Thanks again everyone for your entertaining posts, and kind words! 

About to go through the RC51 wiring diagrams, I noticed the RC51 manual has the unmistakable outline of the mighty 3rd Gen VFR on the cover - a hint at the gear drive lineage????