Ill start by saying sorry, its been asked to death.
but i have a specific question i couldn't find an answer to.
can i delink the brakes with just removing hoses and pluging ?
The front is a non issue just plug some holes were golden.
BUT the rear is there a hose direct from the cylinder to the caliper?
and can i get an explanation for the COP mod
added a pic of my bike
170,000Km
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Sure anything can be done but it is a bad idea. The master cylinders will no longer be a good size for braking.
You create more issues than you fix.
9 hours ago, mello dudeSure anything can be done but it is a bad idea. The master cylinders will no longer be a good size for braking.
You create more issues than you fix.
I create more easily fixed problems.
The issues with bleeding, and maintaining the linked brakes are way more complex then calculating the piston diameter and stroke
3 hours ago, orendangerI create more easily fixed problems.
The issues with bleeding, and maintaining the linked brakes are way more complex then calculating the piston diameter and stroke
Well, I have rebuilt and maintained a linked 5th Gen 800 and I'm a buffoon, so if I can do it, it's cant be that difficult.
If you just want de-linked brakes, thats a different story. Best of luck :beer:
The COP conversion is discussed here,
Denso coils (Suzuki or similar) and a section of the FI wire harness from an earlier CBR1000, and it connects right up.
For the rear caliper, you can make a short section of hose/line to bridge them. As I recall, swapping in a F4i rear master cylinder worked best with this mod.
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Hi orendanger, having some experience on the subject (after learning a lot from this forum and its members).
Front:
- Original fork/calipers: drill an hole in left and right caliper (at a specific location in cavity of middle piston) to allow moving all three piston with one hydraulic connection (which then requires you to change the front primary brake master cylinder; 6th gen worked out great. Biggest 'issue' with original fork you have to fixate the front secondary brake master (the 'weird' moving caliper bracket on the front left). I did my own take on replacing it with a custom bracket, see here.
- VTR1000F fork lowers and some RVT1000R calipers (Captain 80s) - needs some work to get the front fender mounted
- VTR1000 fork lowers and some CBR954/SP2 callipers (Terry) - needs some work to get the front fender mounted
Rear:
- Original caliper: drill a hole in the caliper (at a specific location in cavity of middle piston) to allow moving all three piston with one hydraulic connection (which then requires you to change the rear brake master cylinder; the one from a CBR600 F4 worked out great
- CBR600F4 calipers with a CBR600 F4 rear master cylinder (Terry)
I should not be attributed with anything in this area, except that I do pay attention to and note the different ways to accomplish this, and continue to voice my opinion that linked brakes do not belong on a VFR. A goddamn master cylinder mounted to a fork leg is just the start of the Rube Goldberg insanity, with multiple extra possible failure points, maintenance headaches and extra (unsprung) weight.
"But... when it works, it works really good." That's great. So does my brain, hand and foot. And they are already along for the ride.
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You can use Honda CoPs. The wires are exactly the same.
I assume we are talking about ignoring the middle pistons and just driving the outer pairs at both ends. The rear master is a big, 17.46mm diameter, and normally operates two rear pistons plus two front pistons. If you delink, then it will only drive the two rear pistons and it is likely to feel very wooden, not much travel or power. If you link that master to all three rear pistons the ratio will be better but may still feel a bit wooden, so moving to a 14mm rear master driving those 3 pistons would be best. You can join the two stock rear hoses at the master using the double banjo bolt that comes out of the linked system, and it will work just like Honda planned to do it that way originally.
At the front, you could keep the original 12.7mm master driving just the outer 4 pistons, and that is a completely stock hydraulic ratio. The 6th gen actually drives all 3 right pistons from the front master plus the two outer left pistons, and that uses a 14mm master, and is a better brake setup IMHO. If you wanted to operate all 6 front pistons then a larger master cylinder than 14mm would be wise.
This is why i prefer forums to facebook... Thanks!
What is 'facebook'?
Worfje, 4/21/2026 at 9:00 PMHi orendanger, having some experience on the subject (after learning a lot from this forum and its members).
Front:
- Original fork/calipers: drill an hole in left and right caliper (at a specific location in cavity of middle piston) to allow moving all three piston with one hydraulic connection (which then requires you to change the front primary brake master cylinder; 6th gen worked out great. Biggest 'issue' with original fork you have to fixate the front secondary brake master (the 'weird' moving caliper bracket on the front left). I did my own take on replacing it with a custom bracket, see here.
- VTR1000F fork lowers and some RVT1000R calipers (Captain 80s) - needs some work to get the front fender mounted
- VTR1000 fork lowers and some CBR954/SP2 callipers (Terry) - needs some work to get the front fender mounted
Rear:
- Original caliper: drill a hole in the caliper (at a specific location in cavity of middle piston) to allow moving all three piston with one hydraulic connection (which then requires you to change the rear brake master cylinder; the one from a CBR600 F4 worked out great
- CBR600F4 calipers with a CBR600 F4 rear master cylinder (Terry)
do you still have the specs for the bracket?
Love what you did!
Since I designed the bracket, I have 'the specs'. However, at this point in time, I would be reluctant to share 'the specs'.
I believe in my design (since riding with it), but for a 'commercial' product (thus sharing it with others), I would at least want certification by TÜV SÜD (or similar).
I feel confident to 'risk' my own life, but not that of others at the current level of testing / lack of certification.
You don't need the secondary master replacement bracket. Just use the clevice that is already there with a bolt retained in the secondary master cylinder by the steel plate & circlip that is also already there. The clevice is static the bracket moves on it. If you gut the secondary master cylinder then you can fit a bolt of the correct dimensions into it such that the bracket does not move when the brake is applied. Simples 🙂
Worfje, 4/23/2026 at 1:10 PMSince I designed the bracket, I have 'the specs'. However, at this point in time, I would be reluctant to share 'the specs'.
I believe in my design (since riding with it), but for a 'commercial' product (thus sharing it with others), I would at least want certification by TÜV SÜD (or similar).
I feel confident to 'risk' my own life, but not that of others at the current level of testing / lack of certification.
ahh got it, didnt know you intended it for commercial use, sorry!
I don't intend for commercial exploitation, but I do see the certification required for commercial use as a requirement for releasing the design to others.
I could "delink" this front brake completely.....
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Cos it was crap when it left the factory in 1952 to begin with... 🙂
Sorry, could not resist...
off topic: I have a hunch where you shot this picture 🤫
11 hours ago, DutchyI could "delink" this front brake completely.....
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Cos it was crap when it left the factory in 1952 to begin with... 🙂
Sorry, could not resist...
thats a strange VFR!!! 😄
22 hours ago, WorfjeI don't intend for commercial exploitation, but I do see the certification required for commercial use as a requirement for releasing the design to others.
ah, got it
I can't find a picture of my solution, but if you look at the clevis, it has an threaded adjustable plunger, that passes through a retainer plate. Just replace the plunger with a socket head bolt I think it's an M6 IIRC. To assemble, slide the retainer plate over the bolt. Add a Nyloc lock nut to retain it & tighten the plate onto bolt head. Add a second locknut, can be ordinary or a Nyloc added in reverse. Thread on the clevis. Fit the retainer plate in the Secondary master cylinder as per stock disassembly, such that the bolt head is inside where the plunger would be, retaining it with the stock circlip. Connect the clevis to the fork leg loosely check pad alignment on the disc, adjust bolt length as needed until you are happy, snug up second lock nut & clevis cross bolt. Go ride it 🙂
Stock Clevis
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Modified with Cap Head Bolt Clevis, the Red represents the Cap Head Bolt ! Trim bolt to length where is passes through the clevis.
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I used an alloy cap head bolt, its more than strong enough as it only sees compression loads, you may need to reduce the cap head outer diameter to fit inside the master cylinder hole.
I cut away all the surplus bracket where the hoses mounted & drilled some lightening holes.
Happy modding 🙂