Another Inverted Fork Conversion (6th Gen)

Hi all,

I've collected almost all the parts I need to do my fork conversion, so I thought I would share my plans on here. Mine is an '04 Asphalt VFR800 with ABS; I have already pulled the main ABS fuse and rode around, and had no issues, so I don't think the de-link/de-ABS is going to be much of a problem. My goal is to improve the bike's performance to close to where it would be if it were receiving biennial updates to keep pace with the GSX-R750, which means losing weight, improving dynamics (braking and turning), and improving engine power and delivery. This modification obviously addresses the first two.

[image: post-10025-125947282008_thumb.jpg]

It started where many on here have already been, with RC51 SP1 and CBR929RR/954RR triple clamps. When I started seriously considering this conversion, I decided that I would need to have inverted forks with radial brakes. That eliminated the most common upgrade, the RC51 SP1, which automatically made the process harder. The next place to look would be at CBR1000RR forks, but they seemed too short (based on my research).

Inverted Fork Swap Data Excel 2003.xls

That opened it up to other brands, and after looking hard at the GSX-R family of forks, I finally decided on the '06-'07 Kawasaki ZX-10R (which I thought would have 743mm forks, but ended up 738mm). The Kawi forks use a 25mm axle, so I next tried to find a wheel to fit. Also, the ZX-10R uses 210mm fork spacing (the triples are 214mm), which means custom wheel spacers (and eventually, rotor spacers too...).

[image: post-10025-125947280313_thumb.jpg]

After a few dead ends, I decided to use a Ducati 748/916/996/998 wheel (since they use a 25mm axle, and the 5-spoke design matches my VFR's 8-spoke rear). Well, a couple days after buying a wheel with rotors on eBay (actually a Brembo wheel for Aprilia RSV-R's, which fits the Ducati) I found something even better: a cast magnesium Marvic Penta II for the Ducati 749/999. I jumped on it, and now I have a Brembo wheel to sell, but that's a different story...

Then I got a set of Ducati 848 rotors (which interchange with 749/999 rotors). After trolling some Kawasaki forums, it turns out the stock ZX-10R Tokico calipers were kind of weak, so I abandoned the set I had scored and instead bought a complete '04-'05 CBR1000RR braking system. I got a set of Vesrah pads from Kurveygirl and some lengthened Spiegler lines from the guys at Convertibars. The CBR calipers in conjunction with the 848 rotors resulted in needing 15mm caliper spacers, which I should have had machined but got lazy and bought from Dan Kyle.

So now, I just need to have some spacers machined (~5mm rotor spacers, which makes me a little nervous, and some axle spacers for the 999 wheel). So, if you know a good machine shop in the San Diego area, let me know. Although I will be moving to the east coast in a month, so I'm open to almost anything.

[image: post-10025-125947277896_thumb.jpg]

Parts List:

Triple Clamps - CBR929RR/954RR (I may use an RC51 SP1 upper if I have to put the clip-ons below the upper triple clamp)

Forks, axle - '06'-07 ZX-10R

Clip ons - Cycle Cat risers for Ducati Monster

Fender - Carbon fiber for ZX-6R/ZX-10R

Wheel - Marvic Penta II cast magnesium 5-spoke for Ducati 749/999

Calipers, Master Cylinder - '04-'05 CBR1000RR

Rotors - Ducati 848 320mm

Pads - Vesrah RJL for the CBR1000RR

Brake lines - Spiegler extended lines for CBR1000RR

Caliper spacers - 15mm from Dan Kyle

Custom bolts - stainless 70mm caliper bolts, 20mm rotor bolts from Pro-Bolt USA (due to caliper and rotor spacers)

Steering bearings - All Balls for Honda (CBR929RR/954RR and VFR800 use the same)

Axle spacers - (to be) custom machined; I have a couple chunks of 6Al-4V titanium sitting around...

Rotor spacers - also (to be) custom machined; I'll probably go 4.5mm thick

I also have a set of '04-'07 CBR1000RR Vortex rearsets sitting in my closet, with a 600RR rear master cylinder. I need to have new mounting plates machined to slap them on, which is also on the "to do" list...

Lacy

Oooh, can't wait to see the finished product.

As for the RC51 brakes, there are radial brake adaptors out there for the '51 forks, and although they are not as spiffy as a clean-sheet design for radial brakes, and probably slightly less stiff, it is possible and has been done.

[image: tues001.jpg]

Oh, and if you want a blingy upper triple clamp, look for one of these:

[image: Vortextriple.jpg]

After black anodizing:

[image: triple2.jpg]

Rob,

Your GL800RR-SP2 is one of the builds that inspired me to give this a shot (along with Swiffer, ZRoyZ, and a few others).

I've seen the RC51 radial mount adapters, but thought going the ZX way would be cheaper (which it probably wasn't in the long run). Oh well.

By the way, I see you've been collecting new parts for your VFR; good luck with the eBaying and the healing, can't wait to see the rebuild.

Lacy

From having done my RC51 swap, the only thing that I can say is test fit test fit test fit...

And of course, Good luck

VFR800R

My goal is to improve the bike's performance to close to where it would be if it were receiving biennial updates to keep pace with the GSX-R750, which means losing weight, improving dynamics (braking and turning), and improving engine power and delivery.

I applaud your passion to conceptualize your idea and follow it through to fruition; however, in so doing, you're gonna have to shed about 100 lbs. off the bike and increase the engine's output by at least 30%. How do you intend to do this?

Anorexia and a bottle of nitrous? :happy:

EmeraldVFR

VFR800R

My goal is to improve the bike's performance to close to where it would be if it were receiving biennial updates to keep pace with the GSX-R750, which means losing weight, improving dynamics (braking and turning), and improving engine power and delivery.

I applaud your passion to conceptualize your idea and follow it through to fruition; however, in so doing, you're gonna have to shed about 100 lbs. off the bike and increase the engine's output by at least 30%. How do you intend to do this?

Complete de-link is about 10 pounds saved, right? He's probably dropped a pound or pound and a half with the change in front wheel. Good titanium exhaust could save 15, and completely removing the PAIR system & a little work with a hole cutter to open up the airbox could be a couple pounds. What are we up to, 30 pounds? There's that lighter weight forged rear wheel for the 5th & 6th gens out now that saves a couple pounds, and then... uhm... I guess there's a swingarm swap to the Ducati stuff that's been talked about that can save a couple pounds. So if he throws a cubic yard of cash at this thing he might hit 40 pounds of weight reduction. That's an admittedly highly optimistic estimate on my part. And probably outside the lines drawn for this specific thread so I'll stop now.

pres589

EmeraldVFR

VFR800R

My goal is to improve the bike's performance to close to where it would be if it were receiving biennial updates to keep pace with the GSX-R750, which means losing weight, improving dynamics (braking and turning), and improving engine power and delivery.

I applaud your passion to conceptualize your idea and follow it through to fruition; however, in so doing, you're gonna have to shed about 100 lbs. off the bike and increase the engine's output by at least 30%. How do you intend to do this?

Complete de-link is about 10 pounds saved, right? He's probably dropped a pound or pound and a half with the change in front wheel. Good titanium exhaust could save 15, and completely removing the PAIR system & a little work with a hole cutter to open up the airbox could be a couple pounds. What are we up to, 30 pounds? There's that lighter weight forged rear wheel for the 5th & 6th gens out now that saves a couple pounds, and then... uhm... I guess there's a swingarm swap to the Ducati stuff that's been talked about that can save a couple pounds. So if he throws a cubic yard of cash at this thing he might hit 40 pounds of weight reduction. That's an admittedly highly optimistic estimate on my part. And probably outside the lines drawn for this specific thread so I'll stop now.

Removing the passenger footpeg assemblies, the chain guard, and centerstand might save another 15 lbs. He could also swap the steel sprockets for aluminum ones. Maybe he's gonna get CF bodywork all the way around. Maybe even fab an aluminum subframe.

EmeraldVFR

Removing the passenger footpeg assemblies, the chain guard, and centerstand might save another 15 lbs. He could also swap the steel sprockets for aluminum ones. Maybe he's gonna get CF bodywork all the way around. Maybe even fab an aluminum subframe.

I'd say those items are good for maybe 6-7 lbs(not including the sprocket change). :happy: I've gutted my 02 almost as much as possible, even a modded rear sub frame which I dropped to almost 1/2 weight, but that was only around 5-6 lbs savings there. Running a 5th gen sub or maybe an aluminum F4i sub could drop close to 10 lbs.

I haven't have a chance to get an accurate weight of my stripped Vtec as of yet, but will in the next few months(when I can walk again) :fing02:

I think you could buy a nice used 07 GSXR 750 for less that what it would cost to drop 50lbs off a vtec! :ohmy:

BR

VFR800R

When I started seriously considering this conversion, I decided that I would need to have inverted forks with radial brakes. That eliminated the most common upgrade, the RC51 SP1, which automatically made the process harder.

After trolling some Kawasaki forums, it turns out the stock ZX-10R Tokico calipers were kind of weak, so I abandoned the set I had scored and instead bought a complete '04-'05 CBR1000RR braking system.

Stock RC51 brakes (full system) are serious kit and shouldn't be brushed off when upgrading but radials, of course, are more up to date and are easier to source. I, too, sourced adapters to mount cbr1000r radials (pictured). Better yet, I later found a set of mono-blocks for $40!!!!! :happy: They (not pictured) will require shimming on my mixed bag of parts configuration while adding even more brake bling :ohmy: :fing02: but hopefully will provide more feedback and sensitivity.

[image: vfr021.jpg]

As for the zx10 brakes reputation, I suggest a big bit of pessimism as that bike has way more HP/performance than any Viffer. I think they'd more than adequate on the VFR.

My 2cents.

Lacy,

Good luck with the mods and give us an update when you get it all together.

It would be cool if he could pull if off, though. :fing02:

Maybe he's gonna bore out the cylinders and put in some higher compression pistons, put in some radical cams, do some head work, etc. What's cool about that is it certainly sounds doable.

Is there anyone out there that has done a fork conversion w/o changing the brakes or front wheel? I have access to a full machine shop, so I'm not worried about custom fab work. I'm just wondering if anyone's done it, or knows the complications with it. I'm already working on building a alum rear subframe along with some other alum parts. My goal is to keep my bike as close to stock looking as possible while upgrading some things that I don't like (the linked braking I actually do like and want to keep).

rufrydrsc2

Is there anyone out there that has done a fork conversion w/o changing the brakes or front wheel? I have access to a full machine shop, so I'm not worried about custom fab work. I'm just wondering if anyone's done it, or knows the complications with it. I'm already working on building a alum rear subframe along with some other alum parts. My goal is to keep my bike as close to stock looking as possible while upgrading some things that I don't like (the linked braking I actually do like and want to keep).

I did a F4i front end on my vtec track bike which uses stock wheel and brake rotors, I did delink and use the F4i calipers & m/c but I'm sure you could fab the bracket needed to retain the linked brakes if desired. :happy:

[image: post-301-125951939866_thumb.jpg]

Baileyrock

rufrydrsc2

Is there anyone out there that has done a fork conversion w/o changing the brakes or front wheel? I have access to a full machine shop, so I'm not worried about custom fab work. I'm just wondering if anyone's done it, or knows the complications with it. I'm already working on building a alum rear subframe along with some other alum parts. My goal is to keep my bike as close to stock looking as possible while upgrading some things that I don't like (the linked braking I actually do like and want to keep).

I did a F4i front end on my vtec track bike which uses stock wheel and brake rotors, I did delink and use the F4i calipers & m/c but I'm sure you could fab the bracket needed to retain the linked brakes if desired. :rolleyes:

[image: post-301-125951939866_thumb.jpg]

Could you change out the internals of the fork to keep the original lowers and linked brakes? Although I'm in the camp of wanting unlinked brakes and 4 (or 6) piston dual sided calipers.

Whoa guys, we took a hard right turn into pessimism pretty fast. How many pounds has vfroem dropped off his VFR750? And how many horsepower has Toro added to his VFR800? Now, I'm not going as extreme as either of those, but they are examples of what is possible.

For the engine power, there is no way to get the VFR800 VTEC in the same league as a modern GSX-R750 with only natural aspiration. However, there is a lot that can be done to improve output and delivery while also dropping weight (Motad headers, single exhaust, aftermarket filter, Power Commander, etc.). I think 110 hp is reasonable, with improved drivability due to gearing and a Power Commander V (and taking note of Coderighter's work). So, that's giving up 20 hp to the Suzuki, but as has already been stated, it would be extremely expensive to challenge that without a Torocharger.

For the weight, as stated above, 100 lbs is about the difference you're looking at. The '08 GSX-R750 was 447 lbs wet, and the VFR800 VTEC (with ABS) is around 557 lbs.

http://www.sportrider.com/bikes/146_0808_ducati_848_suzuki_gsx_r750/final_tally_specifications.html

http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/features/2002_honda_vfr_800_interceptor/index.html

So, is 100 lbs reasonable? Maybe, but again it will be expensive. 50 lbs is certainly achievable, especially since I'm starting with a handicapped ABS bike (with a few extra pounds to drop). We'll see what I have the stomach and checkbook to do. I've already done the exhaust swap (stock duals to a single low mount titanium can), which dropped around 15 lbs.

Some other weight numbers:

- Removing the passenger pegs and grab handles is a total reduction of 5.7 lbs. I have no intention of removing the centerstand.

- The magnesium wheel sitting in my apartment weighs 7.04 lbs (including bearings and spacer). I expect that to be around 4 lbs less than the stocker.

- As stated above, the de-link/de-ABS will be some free weight. I won't speculate how much until I can put the stock stuff on my scale. However, I'm pretty sure the CBR calipers are also lighter than the VFR's.

As for why to do this with a VFR instead of a(n) [insert CBR/GSX-R/R_/ZX here), I think we've already debated that ad naseum. I have the VFR, it is very nearly paid off, and I like it. The V4 is unique in arrangement and sound, and I think the styling still looks fresh nearly 8 years after it was introduced. I'm a tinkerer, and even though I don't do any real engineering in my job, my undergraduate was in mechanical engineering.

My end goal is to return the VFR to where it was in its early history, as an all-conquering middleweight, while keeping its ability to tour. A bike that can do it all (on pavement): tour (sportily), strafe backroads with the best of them, and tackle the track on occasion. I know it can already do all of this, but I'm having fun expanding the envelope a little bit.

Discuss.

Lacy

VFR800R

Whoa guys, we took a hard right turn into pessimism pretty fast. How many pounds has vfroem dropped off his VFR750?

Lacy

Lacy, please don't take it as negative, but everything you want to achieve on the Vtec has been attempted and or achieved or found to be impossible or extremely cost prohibitive for the last 8 years here on VFRD and by it's members. :rolleyes:

Hundreds of Vtec owners before you have delved into the exact same issues, so were not saying it can't be done because were pessimistic, it's because we've tried just about everything and you will find a thread about every attempt resulting as a success or failure. :blush:

For sure your bike has some extra weight with the ABS equipment for sure! How about finding a member to trade bikes of similar condition except for ABS as many members would love to have ABS. This could do several things for you, give you a bike with less weight and work to do to start with and maybe a few hundred bucks in your pocket to do mods on the lighter non-ABS bike.

I checked a few other weights for you:

-Rear linked brake lines/valves & brackets 2 lbs

-Center stand 3 lbs

-Par valve hoses/clamps & control valves 2 lbs

-chain guard 9 oz

-factory bar ends 8.8 oz

-vtec front brake calipers w/lines 8 lbs

-rear peg assy w/bolts (L&R) 3 lbs

-rear grab rails w/bolts 1 lb 2oz

-rear sub frame(if I remember right) 15 lbs

Good luck and keep us informed! :fing02:

My RCBVFR is down to 491 lbs. wet (real world wet=full tank and all fluids). Getting another 40ish off it would, IMNSHO, be realistically impossible; 20ish, maybe but that would come at an extreme cost by throwing lots of carbon, ti, and magnesium at it, many custom bits. :rolleyes:

If weight loss is the ultimate goal and a worthy goal it is since it is always "working" unlike motor mods, then an F4i front end may have been a better choice. USD units are typically heavier and most utilize massive rotors (320's) which is good for braking but somewhat negates the mag wheel weight savings.

This is a path of diminishing returns. It's starts off easy and relatively cheaply (aftermarket exhaust, chunking stock parts) but gets progressively more difficult. We each have different levels for when this becomes silly. For me, it would be spending hundreds of dollars for mere grams of weight savings on a street bike (Ti bolts and screws, etc). Your best bang for the buck in weight savings comes from unsprung weight. Unfortunately that isn't very easy to do on the VFR rear end.

I think you might be confusing pessimistic with realistic. Nobody is discouraging you from doing it. We're just saying that what you want to do, simply put, isn't realistic. The Suzuki GSX-R 750 is a serious track weapon and is not to be taken lightly. Another thing to consider is the wheelbase on your VTEC is over 2" longer than the GSX-R 750's. That certainly doesn't work in your favor and, strictly speaking for myself, I don't know what in the world you could do about that.

Personally, I've seen it all on a VFR. I've seen a supercharger and I've seen a turbocharger. I've seen a big bore kit and I've seen a nitrous kit. I've seen high dollar Ohlins rear suspensions, RC51 fork conversions, you name it. Sure, if you throw enough money at it, anything is possible. That goes without saying. However, without spending an exhorbitant amount of money, your VTEC simply can't come close to matching the Suzuki GXS-R 750's level of performance. If you think you can do it, then by all means go for it. I assure you we'd all be rooting for you. I know I would.

Nothing wrong with a better VFR! Do it up as you wish sir!! :rolleyes:

Personally, the only thing about my 5th Gen I dislike is the slide caliper linked brakes. My main goal in a fork swap would be radial calipers. That said, I'm really happy with the RC51 stock brakes since I got mine a year ago. So stock RC brakes on my VFR would be dream for me.

Speaking of the RC51, that was designed to be competitive with 750's of the era. Now, it compares with the 600's of this era. Going to be pretty tough for a VFR to match up with the modern 750.

Bottom line: Build the bike that makes you happy! :rolleyes:

Torocharge the motor, and stuff it into a gixxer frame. :rolleyes:

Has BLS made an appearance in this thread yet? Maybe we should get these two together, get a little contract engineering work started. Between all the posts it looks like 50 to 60 lbs could be saved before things just get painfully expensive. Where would I say painfully expensive starts? When the cost of a new VFR has been invested in his new VFR. So, whatever could be done for 10 grand. Glad it's not my money...

And I haven't seen anything pessimistic or overly negative here yet. Actually a lot of really great suggestions have come up so far and I bet there are more to come. Here's a couple more;

If you keep the stock swingarm, Civic lugnuts work. Meaning, titanium lugnuts meant for a Civic work. You'll still be better off trying to get a different swingarm mounted if you care about weight as much as you seem to, but if you stick with stock, here you go.

The stock headlight assembly is kind of weighty, maybe look there, go to a single lamp and a dummy or something, I bet there's half a pound waiting to be freed up there if you're willing to forgo the excellent stock lighting and aesthetics.

If you can figure out a way to go to a single radiator and fan there's probably a couple pounds to be saved there, and you may get better cooling out of it as well when sitting still.

Solo seat.

VFR800R

So, if you know a good machine shop in the San Diego area, let me know.

Paging BLS (busylittleshop), you have a customer on the parking lot. BLS, you have a customer on the lot. :rolleyes:

Dang, pres589 beat me to it! :rolleyes:

You (I) can get titanium lug nuts for a Civic? :rolleyes:

[image: View Post]Baileyrock, on 29 November 2009 - 04:57 PM, said:

[image: View Post]Pete McCrary, on 29 November 2009 - 09:14 PM, said:

[image: View Post]Baileyrock, on 29 November 2009 - 04:57 PM, said:

Quote

[image: View Post]VFR800R, on 29 November 2009 - 11:48 PM, said:

[image: View Post]marid2apterbilt, on 29 November 2009 - 11:22 PM, said:

Quote

[image: View Post]VFR800R, on 29 November 2009 - 11:48 PM, said:

[image: View Post]EmeraldVFR, on 30 November 2009 - 11:51 PM, said:

[image: View Post]VFR800R, on 29 November 2009 - 11:48 PM, said:

[image: View Post]EmeraldVFR, on 30 November 2009 - 11:51 PM, said:

[image: View Post]VFR800R, on 29 November 2009 - 11:48 PM, said:

[image: View Post]Smokey74, on 02 December 2009 - 11:36 PM, said:

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on 02 December 2009 - 11:47 PM, said:

[image: View Post]Smokey74, on 02 December 2009 - 11:36 PM, said:

[image: View Post]Smokey74, on 03 December 2009 - 12:18 AM, said:

[image: View Post]Smokey74, on 03 December 2009 - 12:18 AM, said:

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on 02 December 2009 - 11:47 PM, said:

[image: View Post]Smokey74, on 02 December 2009 - 11:36 PM, said:

[image: View Post]KPerham, on 03 December 2009 - 06:18 AM, said:

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on 03 December 2009 - 06:21 AM, said:

[image: View Post]KPerham, on 03 December 2009 - 06:18 AM, said:

[image: View Post]KPerham, on 03 December 2009 - 06:35 AM, said:

[image: View Post]2fast2young, on 30 November 2009 - 05:23 PM, said:

[image: View Post]marid2apterbilt, on 29 November 2009 - 11:22 PM, said:

Quote

[image: View Post]The Phantom, on 01 December 2009 - 09:44 AM, said:

go for it !!!!!,i did you can do it!!!!!

I'm glad this thread was re-bumped as I'm sure a good few of us are drooling at the prospect of future fork it swap. I didnt catch the excell spreadsheet last time I read the thread - well now I downloaded it and saved it in my bike tech folder. The sheet deserves a "Holy shit!". Very cool.

Hey VFR800R - How's things going for ya?

MD

One question I always ask myself when I see one of these threads is, are the VTEC forks really that bad? I find the swap to upside downs with full adjustments very intriguing.

Hello again folks!

The project has been in a holding pattern for the last 6 weeks or so. I am executing a move from San Diego to Newport, RI, so the bike has been packed up in a moving van since December 28. I got my house in Newport (with a garage!) today and should be taking delivery of the VFR (oh, and all my other household goods) on Friday. Then, we will see if I can shimmy the bike down into the basement to begin the tear-down process...

I found a machine shop here in Newport that should be able to build me my last required parts: axle spacers (titanium, I have a few chunks of 6Al-4V to sacrifice for the cause), front rotor spacers, and rearset mounting brackets. I still need to measure, solid model, and make drawings of said parts, but that will be pretty easy (not many dimensions on the spacers, a few for the rearset brackets).

While those parts are getting machined, I plan to tear down the bike, install the CBR954RR triple (with new All Balls bearings), and modify the steering stops as necessary to ensure they have the proper range of motion. I used to be of the opinion that those stops weren't particularly important until I low-sided on Palomar Mountain and squashed my left thumb between the handgrip and the tank. That was exacerbated because I had a tank bag mounted and the magnetic flap reduced the gap between grip and tank by just enough to screw up my opposable. Now I'm a firm believer in those lock stops.

I also have a few other random pieces to install: Motovation frame sliders bought here on VFRD and a carbon fiber hugger scored on eBay. I will also take a few other measurements with the intention of "fixing" one of the big design flaws (I feel) Honda committed on the VFR800s. I will explain further after I have done more research.

By the way, NYMBYSS those Ohlins forks look niiiice. I didn't know anyone had yet accomplished a 6th Gen Ohlins transplant.

Lacy

jasonsmith

One question I always ask myself when I see one of these threads is, are the VTEC forks really that bad? I find the swap to upside downs with full adjustments very intriguing.

Three words - BRAKES, BRAKES, BRAKES...

VFR brakes are fine, until you try serious brakes. All the other benefits of the USD fork swap (increased stiffness, lower unsprung weight, closer tolerances reducing play, more adjustability, better selection of aftermarket upgrades, good looks...) are just extra benefits :wheel:

The Phantom

jasonsmith

One question I always ask myself when I see one of these threads is, are the VTEC forks really that bad? I find the swap to upside downs with full adjustments very intriguing.

Three words - BRAKES, BRAKES, BRAKES...

VFR brakes are fine, until you try serious brakes. All the other benefits of the USD fork swap (increased stiffness, lower unsprung weight, closer tolerances reducing play, more adjustability, better selection of aftermarket upgrades, good looks...) are just extra benefits :wheel:

Sold!!!! I'm going to blame this all on you just so you know. wink.gif

VFR800R

Hello again folks!

The project has been in a holding pattern for the last 6 weeks or so. I am executing a move from San Diego to Newport, RI, so the bike has been packed up in a moving van since December 28. I got my house in Newport (with a garage!) today and should be taking delivery of the VFR (oh, and all my other household goods) on Friday. Then, we will see if I can shimmy the bike down into the basement to begin the tear-down process...

Looking forward to future progress Lacy. It's a pain when life gets in the way of projects huh.

Jason - go to it. Collect a few parts and start a topic :cool:

Speaking of which, I haven't updated mine for a while... :wheel:

Folks,

A little spy shot (or preview) of what is coming:

[image: gallery_10025_5394_486498.jpg]

If you look hard enough, there are a few interesting things in the photo. There's evidence of one massive failed project hidden in there, which I will post up after the bike is back together and I have exhaustively updated the actual front end conversion.

Until then...

Lacy

Is that a front mount radiator I spy in the box back there?

toro1

Is that a front mount radiator I spy in the box back there?

Good eye, Toro. Good eye. There are actually a couple of them floating around the garage. I would bet that you looked at other radiator arrangements for the VTEC when planning the supercharger installation, and ran into similar roadblocks.

I hate the side-mounted radiators, so I planned to find a way to shift to a front mounted radiator (or radiators). I'll detail why it didn't work later, but I believe that Honda moved the engine forward in the chassis with the 1998 VFR800 (which begat my beloved VTEC), which leaves VERY little room to play with up there. Trust me, I tried.

[image: gallery_10025_5394_454484.jpg]

Perhaps later, I will give it another shot. At this point, I just need to button up the highest priority parts of the project and get it on the road.

Lacy

Yep, I've been down that road as well. There is a reason why my kits do not run a front mount intercooler or standard style oil cooler. It would be possible with a multi-piece, custom radiator setup, but not at a realistic price.

SEBSPEED

Nice!

[image: IMG_45371.JPG]

Granted, I have a thing for all black bikes but that thing is supremely gorgeous!!! The red/black wheels and red valve cover set it off!! fing02.gif

The gold wheels & black bike will look great! :fing02:

SEBSPEED

The gold wheels & black bike will look great! :fing02:

+1,000,000 :wub:

VFR800R

Folks,

A little spy shot (or preview) of what is coming:

[image: gallery_10025_5394_486498.jpg]

If you look hard enough, there are a few interesting things in the photo. There's evidence of one massive failed project hidden in there, which I will post up after the bike is back together and I have exhaustively updated the actual front end conversion.

Until then...

Lacy

Lacy:

What's the exact color you used on your wheels? I had mine done in the Subaru WRX BBS gold. Guy that did them works in a body shop. He put about 5 clear coats over them. They look great.

Pete

Pete McCrary

VFR800R

Folks,

A little spy shot (or preview) of what is coming:

[image: gallery_10025_5394_486498.jpg]

If you look hard enough, there are a few interesting things in the photo. There's evidence of one massive failed project hidden in there, which I will post up after the bike is back together and I have exhaustively updated the actual front end conversion.

Until then...

Lacy

Lacy:

What's the exact color you used on your wheels? I had mine done in the Subaru WRX BBS gold. Guy that did them works in a body shop. He put about 5 clear coats over them. They look great.

Pete

Looking nice..

Bin that hideous water cooler thingy.... You will save a good half Kg+ there! A small empty HRC bottle should do. Just top up yr rad. you dont need spare coolant water if you maintain it every trip out.

Will an RC45 hub fit right into that swing arm?? Instantly transforming the weight issue... coupled with a 520 chain conversion..

I'll be using Powder Buy the Pound's Sun Gold on my next set of wheels!

[image: GOLDSUNWEB2.JPG]

Is this now a shiny gold titanium thread?

count me in!

SEBSPEED

I'll be using Powder Buy the Pound's Sun Gold on my next set of wheels!

[image: GOLDSUNWEB2.JPG]

Nice color!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Pete McCrary

VFR800R

Folks,

A little spy shot (or preview) of what is coming:

If you look hard enough, there are a few interesting things in the photo. There's evidence of one massive failed project hidden in there, which I will post up after the bike is back together and I have exhaustively updated the actual front end conversion.

Until then...

Lacy

Lacy:

What's the exact color you used on your wheels? I had mine done in the Subaru WRX BBS gold. Guy that did them works in a body shop. He put about 5 clear coats over them. They look great.

Pete

Pete, I'm 99% sure the powdercoat is Tiger Drylac Sahara Gold 49/90137 (interior/exterior). The powdercoater tried to find a match for the Marvic magnesium front wheel I had, and Sahara Gold turned out to be close but not perfect. It will be good enough for my purposes.

@SEBSPEED: I'm pretty excited about the Asphalt black/gold wheel combination. I think it's going to look pretty awesome.

@B4D80Y: I agree on the HRC coolant overflow bottle idea. As for the RC45 wheel hub, I don't know. A rear wheel change is waaay down the road in my plans. However, the 520 chain conversion is closer....

Lacy

SEBSPEED

I'll be using Powder Buy the Pound's Sun Gold on my next set of wheels!

[image: GOLDSUNWEB2.JPG]

Something looks wrong with that wheel, even with the angle I would expect to see a bit of the other lip.

SwiftTech

Something looks wrong with that wheel, even with the angle I would expect to see a bit of the other lip.

Must have gotte nthe angle just right... but to be safe, here's one more of different wheels...

[image: GOLDSUNWEB.JPG]

I'll start the update with the teardown. First, the fairings came off and were scattered around the garage. Then I put my motorcycle jack under the bike and slid a couple of 2x4 chunks under the oil pan to lift the bike from the engine instead of the headers. Then, off came the braking system, front wheel, clip ons, and forks. Before disassembly, I measured the original fork position (from the top triple clamp to the top of the forks) in case they ever go back in, and used the dowel method to measure the distance from the bottom of the steering head to the front axle so I could set up the new forks with the stock settings (actually, I will pull them up 5 mm to help account for the increased trail from the new triples, and also raise the rear end, both of which will steepen the rake and reduce trail). The VFR after disassembly:

[image: gallery_10025_5394_4162.jpg]

Next, I tackled the triples. I decided to use CBR929RR/CBR954RR triple clamps. The '06-'07 ZX-10R forks I will install have the lower machined surface positioned such that the CBR lower triple, with its flat profile, grabs in the right spot; RC51 SP1 triples grab too low due to their gullwing shape. I thought I could use the existing steering stops instead of just cutting them off and designing a new stop. So, I put the lower triple in and started shaving the stops with my Dremel (it turns out the stops are closer to the steering stem on the CBR triples than the VFR ones, so first I had to remove material from the stem side of the stops to get the triple up into position). My "machining station" is shown here; I don't recommend this, as I got aluminum filings EVERYWHERE and will be washing the bike naked before reinstalling the fairings to clean it up. But, it was much handier than pulling the triple, taking it to my basement, putting it in the vise, cutting 1mm off the stops, refitting the triple, and repeating about 50 times.

[image: gallery_10025_5394_460888.jpg]

You can see my initial cuts on the left-hand stop here (sorry for the out-of-focus shot):

[image: gallery_10025_5394_395167.jpg]

It turns out the CBR stops are much farther forward than the VFR ones, so the stops would never make contact with the original frame pads on the VFR. After mulling it over, I realized I could shape the stops to work against the bracket on the front of the steering head. That took a LOT of careful shaping of the stops; I removed a little material at a time, then would refit the triple to see if the stop allowed the steering lock to function. This took a while...

I also had to file away a little bit of material from the frame (eek!) to get the stops to contact the steering head well. It's hard to see, but I just flushed-up the part of the boss at the front of the steering head, just below the lower fairing stay bolt, where the stops will contact (there was left over casting flash from the factory):

[image: gallery_10025_5394_331001.jpg]

After gaining ground with the stops, the next hurdle was the oil cooler and its mounts. The outside edge of the triple contacted the cooler and mounts, as RustyA discovered with the RC51 SP1 triples on the VTEC, but in a different spot. I'm operating on the "first, do no harm" principle on this build, so I'm trying to do as little irreversible damage as possible, which prevented me from just lopping the oil cooler mounts off. Eventually, I decided to trim the mounts and cut a relief into the triple between the clamp bolts. First, the mount trim; you can see where I removed some material on the inside edge of the mount:

[image: gallery_10025_5394_391300.jpg]

Next, the triple reliefs:

[image: gallery_10025_5394_222487.jpg]

That got me sufficient clearance with the mounts, and eventually I trimmed my stops to get sufficient range of motion in both directions. The completed, sanded lower triple:

[image: gallery_10025_5394_138353.jpg]

In total, I took off over half of the original stops. I think the new stops and the "new" frame pad at the front of the steering head will be sufficient to limit bar movement in all but the worst crashes. I took RustyA's advice and used Duplicolor Self-etching primer and their silver wheel paint. After masking, installing the All Balls lower tapered roller bearing, and greasing, here is the finished product:

[image: gallery_10025_5394_196824.jpg]

I installed the All Balls steering bearing set (thanks HS for your great maintenance guide!) and then moved on to the next stage. Here are a few shots of the triple after installation; you can see how the new stops contact the frame and how the outer edges of the triple clear the oil cooler mounts:

[image: gallery_10025_5394_77647.jpg]

[image: gallery_10025_5394_470553.jpg]

[image: gallery_10025_5394_425163.jpg]

[image: gallery_10025_5394_366819.jpg]

I then took a few minutes to install the forks, wheel, and brakes to make sure everything fit. It did! Simultaneously, I was having my rear wheel powdercoated at a machine shop that was also cutting me some new parts (spacers for the front axle and the rotors, and rearset brackets). While I was waiting on that, I took a detour into another project I have been daydreaming about: a front mounted radiator. I looked at a lot of options, and bought a 2004-2005 GSX-R600 radiator and fan for a test fit a while ago. It was narrow enough (surprisingly), but it was too tall to fit since the front cylinder head sticks out so far. I then thought about two radiators, but struck on the idea of cutting a chunk out of the middle of a literbike radiator. So, I bought a 2008 ZX-10R radiator on eBay and it looked like it might work (it was narrow enough, and fairly tall, which would allow me to cut out quite a few tube rows). Here is the radiator, and my cardboard prototype for fit testing:

[image: gallery_10025_5394_443197.jpg]

The replica is curved and everything, by the way. I removed the stock radiators and pushed them and the oil cooler lines aside, then set about fitting the cardboard rad. I started by cutting out a strip at the leading edge of the forward head, then opened up the hole to get clearance to push the radiator back.

[image: gallery_10025_5394_723117.jpg]

My concerns were the front wheel and fender contacting the radiator, the side fairings fully enclosing it, and the forks and lower triple hitting the top of the radiator. I figured I could remove about 30% of the tubes from the radiator (the ZX-10R puts around 165 hp down, while the VFR's max seems to be around 110 hp, or about 66% of 165, which I rounded up to 70% to add some fudge factor), so I cut a hole that corresponded to removing 15 of the 50 rows. Everything looked pretty good:

[image: gallery_10025_5394_508152.jpg]

I don't have a shot of it, but I pulled the forks waaaay up in the triples to simulate full wheel travel of 120mm, and it looked like the tire and fender would just barely contact the lower fins of the radiator. I optimistically figured the cardboard replica was thicker than the actual radiator, which may have bought me some room there. Things looked very tight, but probably workable.

[image: gallery_10025_5394_414810.jpg]

The real problem came when I fitted the side panels. You can't quite see it in the following picture, but if you look hard enough, behind the left fork is evidence of the deal-breaker:

[image: gallery_10025_5394_529522.jpg]

The radiator's lower corners would stick out from the sides of the fairing panels!

[image: gallery_10025_5394_55415.jpg]

Well, so much for that plan. While the ZX-10R radiator was narrow enough at the top, the VFR narrows at the bottom too much to enclose the ZX rad. Add in the close proximity to the headers and the curve of the radiator, and you end up with rad corners poking out of the fairing. I was fairly disappointed after spending the better part of a weekend mocking up the rad and jamming it into place, but it was a good try. And I have since come up with a new plan; I just need to score a 2008+ CBR1000RR radiator from eBay and find a really good aluminum welder...

After giving up on the radiator, I tackled the oil cooler again. With the ZX-10R radiator, I was going to relocate the oil cooler somewhere by having -AN fittings welded to the original line ends and using braided stainless lines to move the cooler. With the radiator plan dead, I decided to stick with the original lines and only move the cooler a little bit. I made brass spacers and used long bolts to space the oil cooler down enough to clear the lower triple clamp, which turned out pretty good. Some minor oil line bending was needed, but now the oil cooler bolts to the stock mounts and everything fits:

[image: gallery_10025_5394_374362.jpg]

The next installment will cover freshly machined parts, powdercoating, and maybe a weight-loss estimate. Stay tuned...

Very cool. Can't wait for the finished product.

I wanted to convert my bike to radial brakes using adaptors for the RC51 forks and use 330mm CBR 929/854 rotors, but the extra expense was a deterrent.

So I just got new 320mm rotors and called it a day.

One of my rotors was badly bent in the crash, so I needed at least one new rotor anyhow........

[image: gallery_554_5200_815276.jpg]

Veefer800Canuck

Very cool. Can't wait for the finished product.

I wanted to convert my bike to radial brakes using adaptors for the RC51 forks and use 330mm CBR 929/854 rotors, but the extra expense was a deterrent.

So I just got new 320mm rotors and called it a day.

One of my rotors was badly bent in the crash, so I needed at least one new rotor anyhow........

[image: gallery_554_5200_815276.jpg]

Nice. Are those Braking wavy rotors?

Lacy

VFR800R, nice job! :fing02: How do you like the wheel paint?

Veefer800Canuck, get yourself some HRC Hard Bite brake pads for the RC51 calipers. :fing02:

VFR800R

Nice. Are those Braking wavy rotors?

Lacy

Not so much, no. :unsure:

[image: chinamap.gif]

But I DO have a spare set of OEM rotors waiting in the wings if the Eastern Knockoff rotors don't pan out.

They came with my replacement front wheel, so I hung on to them until I see how the wavy ones go.

RustyA

Veefer800Canuck, get yourself some HRC Hard Bite brake pads for the RC51 calipers. :fing02:

I have EBC HH pads which have been working fine up until now. They were hardly worn before the crash, and I was using them on the OEM rotors.

I simply removed them and sanded them down to refresh them and reinstalled them on the Chinese rotors.

RustyA

VFR800R, nice job! :computer-noworky: How do you like the wheel paint?

Rusty,

Thanks! The wheel paint turned out awesome; I was just going to leave the triple bare, but guilt took over and I decided to shoot it despite its out-of-the-way location. The Duplicolor primer and paint looks good; we'll see how it lasts!

Lacy

All right, time for some beauty shots...

[image: gallery_10025_5394_69336.jpg]

I found a place in New Bedford, MA, that does powdercoating and machining (Allpage Inc.). They stripped the 8 spoke Enkei 3rd generation VFR750 wheel I had mounted to my VTEC and powdercoated it Sahara Gold. I (somewhat impatiently) had them order and coat the wheel without getting a paint chip (powder chip?!?) to check the color better against the Marvic magnesium front wheel I was trying to match it to, so the color is further off than I would like. It doesn't come out well in the photos, but the newly coated rear is somewhat brighter than the Marvic, which looks like a dirtier color of gold. Oh well, I kept telling myself that the two wheels would be 5 feet apart, the front would be partially covered by the rotors/forks/calipers/fender, and that it would only be really noticeable on the right side of the bike. We'll see how it all looks when it's bolted together in the sunlight...

[image: gallery_10025_5394_55647.jpg]

[image: gallery_10025_5394_381680.jpg]

I also had them strip and coat the aluminum nuts I have been using, which is awesome except... the powder is thick enough that the socket doesn't fit, and unfortunately there isn't a standard (English unit) socket that is slightly larger. I'll probably wrap some paper around the nuts and try to use the next higher metric size, and if that doesn't work I may have the shop strip them again and have them anodized instead (as they were originally). Speaking of stripping powdercoating, I forgot to have the shop mask off the mating surface of the wheel (where it mounts to the hub), so I'll be sanding that off prior to mounting the rear. Rookie move...

The rest of the parts came out very well.

[image: gallery_10025_5394_355346.jpg]

The titanium front axle spacers look fine; I originally intended to have complete spacers machined that would replace the stock ZX-10R spacers and give me the additional 12mm I needed, but after talking to the machine shop I decided to minimize how much titanium cutting I was going to ask of them to reduce cost somewhat (so these will be in addition to the stock ZX-10R spacers). I have since discovered that the spacers are a little bit too wide (about 0.1mm each), so I need to re-measure everything and get them shaved down. The ZX-10R axle is different than our VFR (and most Honda) axles; it doesn't shoulder against only one fork leg, instead it compresses both fork legs together, so my spacer/wheel hub width needs to be right on so I don't end up tweaking the fork legs and adding stiction (or blowing out my fork seals).

The rotor spacers are 5mm thick, to correctly place the Ducati 848 rotors within the 2004-2007 CBR1000RR calipers. I measured up the 848 rotors and had the spacers machined to match the contours of the rotor, so they don't stick out; since the machine shop was going to cut them on a CNC mill, I didn't feel too bad about adding a longer cutting profile. With the spacers, the rotors are no longer precisely located on the wheel hub shoulder, so I eyeballed that when torquing the rotor bolts and had the wheel balanced again after installing the rotors. No weights needed!

[image: gallery_10025_5394_347821.jpg]

[image: gallery_10025_5394_157303.jpg]

Finally, the rearset brackets. These adapt 2004-2007 CBR1000RR/2003-2006 CBR600RR Vortex rearsets to the VFR800 VTEC. The original Vortex relocating brackets are angled and space their mounting bolts too far apart for the VFR, so I redesigned them to fit correctly. I couldn't get a position that exactly replicated the stock peg location because the Vortex peg brackets are pretty long, which meant the holes to provide a stock location were way too close to the relocater bracket mounting holes. So, instead they feature a "stock" location that is the same height as the stock VFR pegs but 10mm back, with additional positions from 10mm down to 20mm up and up to 30 mm back.

In the photo below, the Vortex brackets are on the left (with the angled mounting holes) and mine are on the right.

[image: gallery_10025_5394_427670.jpg]

If anyone is interested, I can provide SolidWorks or .dxf files of the brackets. In my case, I got a good set of used rearsets (Vortex part number RS205) from eBay for $125, then paid around $140 for the machining of the brackets and $40 for the anodizing. I also bought another Vortex part, a shifter bracket, to try to get the rearset shifter system to work. I'll report on that when I declare success or... well, I won't declare failure, but will try another angle. Your costs may vary, but it is a viable alternative to the Sato Racing rearsets if you have access to a CNC mill and don't mind fiddling to make the shifter work. I also have a CBR600RR rear brake master cylinder to go on the rearsets, which would probably not be the right move if you were keeping the linked brakes on your VFR. Again, some of this may not be for the faint of heart.

So, that's where I am, still assembling and with a couple of outsourced jobs yet to complete. Once the axle spacers are shaved, I can bolt the front end together for good. I'm currently mounting the controls to my Cycle Cat clip ons, and need to drill a few holes in them. Then, it's time to strip the rest of the ABS parts off and weigh them to determine how much I have really lost; based on my (very incomplete) spreadsheet, I will be very lucky to reach 50 pounds total removed at the end of this set of modifications. That all depends on how much the remaining ABS parts weigh (both ABS control valves, the ABS computer, lines, and whatever proportioning valve is resident under the seat). Once my accounting is complete, I will share it so we can compare measured weights of the stock components and the new stuff I bolted on.

Then, it will be time to ride...

Lacy

Wow VFR800R, Duke rotors, ZXR forks, Marvic wheel, CBR calipers... you sure know how to mix it up mate.

Look forward to seeing the final job.

[image: gallery_10025_5394_700170.jpg]

It's done...

Stand by for more to come...

Looking awesome! :fing02:

Standing by... :lurk:

Well, I finally finished putting the bike together today. The first ride test will follow shortly. Until then, here is a visual tour of the changes made to the bike. For those of you who are clean freaks, beware: it's pretty dirty.

[image: gallery_10025_5394_715271.jpg]

DSC02964.JPG

Front shot, showing off the new front end and the oil cooler mesh I added. The cooler had a bunch of mauled fins, so I cut up some window screen and zip-tied it around the cooler for future protection.

[image: gallery_10025_5394_1877129.jpg]

DSC02962.JPG

[image: gallery_10025_5394_1166326.jpg]

DSC02973.JPG

I ended up with a bunch of electrical connectors that were abandoned in place, so the old electrical tape came in handy. In this photo, there are actually four different connectors taped up and fastened to various attachment points (two ABS computer connectors, one ABS control valve connector, and the front wheel speed sensor connector).

[image: gallery_10025_5394_1007037.jpg]

DSC02954.JPG

The shifter-side Vortex rearset, bolted to my custom-machined mounting bracket. I have parts to make the peg-mounted shifter linkage operational, but I need new bearings and haven't got around to calling Vortex about it. I may even be able to change over to GP-style shifting, we'll see. I already painted the rashed peg tip once, and then promptly stepped on it and messed up the paint. I'll repaint it after the test ride...

[image: gallery_10025_5394_175197.jpg]

DSC02949.JPG

The new rear brake line runs through the swingarm, courtesy of work previously done by EmeraldVFR and Seb:

Gen. 6th Vfr: The Brake Lines are Now Runnging Through the Swingarm!

[image: gallery_10025_5394_1821694.jpg]

DSC02953.JPG

[image: gallery_10025_5394_1166646.jpg]

DSC02952.JPG

I followed Steve and Seb's directions, using Earl's coated hose and steel hose ends. Instead of running two lines, I pushed a single line through the swingarm (via a hole in the front left, near the shock) and made a small bridge line to connect the two ports in the caliper. You can just see the hose coming out of an existing hole in the bottom of the swingarm behind the bridge line in the photo.

[image: gallery_10025_5394_1437880.jpg]

DSC02982.JPG

I finally have an exhaust setup I'm happy with. Although I haven't ridden it yet, so we'll have to see if it sounds as good as the old TiForce can. The exhaust system is all Yoshimura: the link pipe is a Yosh RS-3 for the '98-'01 VFR800, and the carbon-tipped end can is an R55 originally intended for the '08-'10 Kawasaki ZX-10R. Luckily Yoshimura tends to use a standard can inlet size of 2.25", so the newer can mounted up to the older link pipe with just a little trim of the pipe. The spring hangers don't line up perfectly, but they are close enough. Amazingly, the aluminum muffler bracket I hacked out for my old TiForce setup (that also mounts the Ohlins preload adjuster) perfectly matched the Yoshimura R55 mount. Sweet!

rum/uploads/1287620871/gallery_10025_5394_1739847.jpg[/img]

DSC02947.JPG

[image: gallery_10025_5394_1028874.jpg]

DSC02983.JPG

The right side Vortex rearset mounts a CBR600RR rear brake master cylinder with a brake pressure switch plumbed into it. The adjacent exhaust heat shield mounted to the original rear set, so I set about making a bracket to connect the shield to the new rear sets. After a few hours of cutting, drilling, and sanding I happened to look in the box of Vortex goodies and realized that there were two small brackets in there intended for the CBR600RR/CBR1000RR heat shields, that just happened to work perfectly on the VFR. Oh well, they are prettier than what I was bungling up anyway.

[image: gallery_10025_5394_2183219.jpg]

DSC02972.JPG

No more evap canister!

[image: gallery_10025_5394_1505573.jpg]

DSC02970.JPG

A shot of the completed front end. '06-'07 ZX-10R (Kayaba) forks, '04-'07 CBR1000RR (Tokico) calipers with Vesrah pads, Ducati 848 (Brembo) rotors, Ducati 999 Marvic Penta II cast magnesium wheel, and custom Spiegler brake lines. The carbon front fender was donated from some random Kawasaki, and I thank it for its sacrifice...

[image: gallery_10025_5394_707861.jpg]

DSC02956.JPG

The cockpit features CBR929/954RR triple clamps, a Yoshimura top nut (notice a trend here?), Cycle Cat Ducati Monster clip ons, and a CBR1000RR front brake master cylinder set up. It is REALLY tight everywhere around the bars, and I'm still adjusting them to make everything work.

[image: gallery_10025_5394_2430560.jpg]

DSC02960.JPG

The clutch reservoir is very close to the clip on, and currently bangs against the screen mount at full right lock. Adjustments are needed...

[image: gallery_10025_5394_2079279.jpg]

DSC02961.JPG

The right side is similarly tight; the brake lines and throttle cables are rubbing at full left lock. Surprisingly, the brake reservoir clears everything.

[image: gallery_10025_5394_1563802.jpg]

DSC02993.JPG

[image: gallery_10025_5394_2336317.jpg]

DSC02981.JPG

That about covers the modifications. I finished bolting on the fairings tonight, and have just a few tweaks to make before going for a test ride tomorrow or Monday. I'll post up my weight spreadsheet shortly to show how much mass I've cut off. It just exceeds 50 pounds, according to my figures. I'll have to put the bike on some scales to see if it has dropped below 500 pounds wet; unfortunately I didn't weigh it pre-modifications, so I can't prove how much it has lost.

So far, I'm pretty happy with it. Once I have washed it, I'll take some "final" shots and post them up.

Lacy

Nice job! :fing02:

Thanks for the additional information.

As for the weight loss, you could always compare it to someone else's stocker and be fairly certain of the figures.

Nice work. One small thread in this forum can not account for all the time and thought a person puts into a project like this. Congratulations on getting to this stage. :fing02:

For what it's worth, the RC51 and VFR use the same clutch slave cylinder. So you can swap out the master for a better looking (Possibly better clearance, too) match to the brake reservoir. Probably the CBR, as well.

I like your rear brake solution. :fing02:

If you want a matching set of radial pumps. Brembo RCS19 for the front brakes, and RCS16 for the clutch. This is the set-up I'm using now. :fing02: They're about $365 each.

[image: DSCN1186.jpg]

[image: DSCN1187.jpg]

[image: DSCN1730.jpg]

Another awesome thread :fing02:

Thank you.

Here's to a smooth test :beer:

I went for a brief (less than 10 miles) test ride this afternoon just before dark. Here are a couple of photos; I apologize for the poor quality, they were taken with my iPhone. Although the graininess does hide the dirt and dust that I haven't had time to wash off yet.

[image: gallery_10025_5394_17088.jpg]

photo1.jpg

[image: gallery_10025_5394_25148.jpg]

photo2.jpg

It was a pretty ginger ride, with a lot of focus on bedding in the new pad/rotor combination up front and testing out the new forks. The steering feels MUCH lighter than before, but to be honest I really can't do a before and after comparison as the last time I rode the bike (in its original form) was December, and the last bikes I did ride were both Buells. Probably the most shocking change is the rear brake feel; with the CBR600RR master cylinder, I didn't realize how harsh the bite of the rear caliper would be. I'm accustomed to braking with the front lever and rear pedal with the CBS system, without much feel coming from the rear brake and the ability to step on it pretty hard with little effect. With the new setup, however... WOW, I locked the rear brake the first time I used it. I will have to relearn how to stop this thing.

For the most part, the whole package felt pretty good. I didn't challenge myself or the bike at all on this ride, however, so pushing harder will have to wait for later.

Prettier photos will follow after I wash the bike this weekend (hopefully).

Lacy

KPerham

For what it's worth, the RC51 and VFR use the same clutch slave cylinder. So you can swap out the master for a better looking (Possibly better clearance, too) match to the brake reservoir. Probably the CBR, as well.

I like your rear brake solution. :fing02:

Great idea, I will try to score a CBR1000RR clutch master and see if it will work. I think the RC51 design was carried over to the CBR, so they should be the same (and the CBR likely cheaper).

RustyA

If you want a matching set of radial pumps. Brembo RCS19 for the front brakes, and RCS16 for the clutch. This is the set-up I'm using now. :fing02: They're about $365 each.

Rusty, I love your Brembo goodness, but I'm not prepared to throw down $750 for master cylinders! Maybe for a magnesium rear wheel....

Lacy

VFR800R

I went for a brief (less than 10 miles) test ride this afternoon just before dark. Here are a couple of photos; I apologize for the poor quality, they were taken with my iPhone. Although the graininess does hide the dirt and dust that I haven't had time to wash off yet.

It was a pretty ginger ride, with a lot of focus on bedding in the new pad/rotor combination up front and testing out the new forks. The steering feels MUCH lighter than before, but to be honest I really can't do a before and after comparison as the last time I rode the bike (in its original form) was December, and the last bikes I did ride were both Buells. Probably the most shocking change is the rear brake feel; with the CBR600RR master cylinder, I didn't realize how harsh the bite of the rear caliper would be. I'm accustomed to braking with the front lever and rear pedal with the CBS system, without much feel coming from the rear brake and the ability to step on it pretty hard with little effect. With the new setup, however... WOW, I locked the rear brake the first time I used it. I will have to relearn how to stop this thing.

For the most part, the whole package felt pretty good. I didn't challenge myself or the bike at all on this ride, however, so pushing harder will have to wait for later.

Prettier photos will follow after I wash the bike this weekend (hopefully).

Lacy

If you were used to the linked brakes, you will need to recalibrate yourself on separate rear brake. With a separate rear, you get to decide when you want rear brakes and when you dont. I have the exact same rear caliper setup with a RC51 master. (check my gallery) I believe the CBR600RR, F4i, and RC51 are all 14mm bore M/C's. I once calculated that with a 14mm m/c it gives a set up very simular to a stock 4th gen rear brake performance. -- If you decide over time that it's still too sensitive for you, I also calculated that a 5/8" bore m/c would tone it down a bit and still be an acceptable rear brake. Unfortunately, I cant give a specific bike or part that has one.

Another tip - I believe that 2005 VTR1000 super hawk clutch master is separate resourvoiur type and may be another option for you, maybe cheaper.

BTW awesome job - good luck

I know how you feel about the before and after comparision. I did my conversion during last winter. Long time between rides. LOL

What's the bore on the 600rr rear brake master cylinder?

What I like about the Brembo radial pumps is, that I can change the feel of the clutch and brake levers, and where the brake and clutch start to bite on the lever throw.

The VFR looks good. Now go out and enjoy it. :fing02:

Bike looks great.

Do you want to sell your old front wheel? I'm looking for one.

My project, vfr800 v-tec

[image: post-21028-044404800 1288467938_thumb.jp]

with radial monoblock brakes

the picture

[image: post-21028-022394100 1288468113_thumb.jp]

rvf750rr

the picture

Nice. How about starting a build thread on your VFR. Would like to see how you did your cooling system in more detail. :fing02:

As we're getting ready to move again (this time from Groton, CT to Poulsbo, WA), I realized that I never really took "final" photos of the VFR and posted them to my build thread. So, here are a couple:

VFR800 Front quarter 9Aug2011

VFR800 Right Side 9Aug2011

Recently, I have only done a couple small things. I have had a carbon fiber hugger sitting around for a year, waiting on the time to build a bracket (because my eBay "steal" didn't come with one, and the British company who made it wouldn't answer any emails), so I finally hacked out an aluminum bracket and trimmed the trailing edge of the hugger with my Dremel to eliminate a crack. It turned out pretty great, with good alignment and more than enough protection for my Ohlins shock. I also added a couple of HRC/Yoshimura stickers (another eBay find from somebody in Thailand), and a Yosh timing plug for the CBR600RR (thanks Honda for all your standardization!). The plug is obviously only visible when the right fairing is off, but I like that I have at least 3 Yosh parts on the bike to tie together the HRC/Yosh theme (the upper triple clamp nut, the timing plug, and the R55 muffler).

I also finally completed the Vortex rearset conversion; I needed a few parts from Vortex (worn out shifter lever bearings, which necessitated buying a new shifter lever) and a shifter rod, but now the shifter is fully functional. I keep contemplating a reverse-pattern, but the clearances are pretty tight already and interference would be bad. Finally, I added a lithium iron battery from Shorai which knocks about 6 more pounds off the bike, which brings my rough total to about 60 pounds removed. Not bad, but it could be better...

I have more stuff in the garage waiting to go on the bike: Tokico monobloc calipers from a CBR600RR to drop another pound of front unsprung weight, a Superhawk clutch master cylinder, and more parts for the (repeatedly failed) front radiator project. They will have to wait for next winter, because I will be at sea all fall...

Next, I think I want to finally do something about the undertail space. There have been a few discussions on VFRD of late about making panels, so it may be time to bite the bullet and do it. Then, I think rideability is next on my list; with the BMC filter, no PAIR valves, and the Yoshimura exhaust, I have a lean flutter just off idle that is pretty annoying. I may buy myself a PCV with Autotune for Christmas.

Well, that's it for now. I didn't get to meet any East Coast VFRD folks while I was out here due to the bike being in pieces and my tendency to play with my daughter and hang out with my wife, but hopefully I run into some of you in the Pacific Northwest!

Lacy

Looks great, nice job! :fing02:

Love the look! Nice.

Although there prolly are not many in the aftermarket yet, we may as well add these forks as possible candidates. They are pretty good stuff:

[image: eifel3020.jpg]

timmythecop

Love the look! Nice.

Although there prolly are not many in the aftermarket yet, we may as well add these forks as possible candidates. They are pretty good stuff:

[image: eifel3020.jpg]

Funny you should mention that Timmy as that was exactly what I was thinking when I read the post about your trip fing02.gif

Nice work, check out my 5th Gen Upgrades in this thread

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/72202-vfr800-10year-refresh-part-deux/page__hl__%2B5th+%2Bgen+%2Bpart+%2Bdeux

pres589

Has BLS made an appearance in this thread yet? Maybe we should get these two together, get a little contract engineering work started. Between all the posts it looks like 50 to 60 lbs could be saved before things just get painfully expensive. Where would I say painfully expensive starts? When the cost of a new VFR has been invested in his new VFR. So, whatever could be done for 10 grand. Glad it's not my money...

And I haven't seen anything pessimistic or overly negative here yet. Actually a lot of really great suggestions have come up so far and I bet there are more to come. Here's a couple more;

If you keep the stock swingarm, Civic lugnuts work. Meaning, titanium lugnuts meant for a Civic work. You'll still be better off trying to get a different swingarm mounted if you care about weight as much as you seem to, but if you stick with stock, here you go.

The stock headlight assembly is kind of weighty, maybe look there, go to a single lamp and a dummy or something, I bet there's half a pound waiting to be freed up there if you're willing to forgo the excellent stock lighting and aesthetics.

If you can figure out a way to go to a single radiator and fan there's probably a couple pounds to be saved there, and you may get better cooling out of it as well when sitting still.

Solo seat.

How come nobody has mentioned the "Cat"? The best two things I have read up to this point was the mention of unsprung weight and the Honda Civic lug nuts, brilliant! I am keeping in mind that the project goal is a "sportier" Sport TOURING. I liked the "anorexia" line too. The Viffer has a sloppy front end for my taste. Straight line acceleration is not as important as confidence inspiring handling with a "big" bike that can be achieved with the spring kits available and the compression/dampening adjustability with the fork upgrade. I will not defend this position as it is only my humbly stated preference. I love the grunt of my 2001 VFR800. Every time I crack the throttle I fall in love over and over again.

I know this is a thread from the dead, but has anyone filled the rear seat cowl and cleaned up the lines when they went to a single exhaust such as above?

I have a 2002, and would appreciate your information re: inverted fork swap, parts needed, etc. Does an rc51 front end "bolt on"?

Rojo241ktm, 6/25/2017 at 11:12 AM

I have a 2002, and would appreciate your information re: inverted fork swap, parts needed, etc. Does an rc51 front end "bolt on"?

Did you even read the thread or search at all?

VFR800R, 11/29/2009 at 6:13 AM

…Also, the ZX-10R uses 210mm fork spacing (the triples are 214mm) …

Sorry to dredge all this up again, but just came across this. What the hell does it mean?

I guess 214mm is the forkleg centre spacing and that matches what Honda often use on larger bikes, but what's 210mm? There simply cannot be 2 different fork spacings on the same bike.

????

7 hours ago, BiKenG

Sorry to dredge all this up again, but just came across this. What the hell does it mean?

I guess 214mm is the forkleg centre spacing and that matches what Honda often use on larger bikes, but what's 210mm? There simply cannot be 2 different fork spacings on the same bike.

????

Hey BiKenG, what I was meaning to say is that the spacing between fork centers is 214mm on the CBR954RR and RC51 triples, but the Kawasaki ZX-10R spacing was 210mm. The ZX-10R forks still easily fit into the CBR or RC triples, but if you plan to use the ZX-10R axle spacers and wheel (or any other 25mm axle-based wheel) that difference in centers will likely require custom-machines axle spacers. Hope that helps clear it up. 
 

To further revive the dead thread, I picked up my set of eBay 2008 ZX-10R forks from the bike shop today (needed new seals) and should confirm over the next month or so if these fit my front end.