My $700 VFR750 died an my second trip, up untill then I was very impressed.... Looks like the 'starter switch' in front of the batttery had a melt down. I ordered a new one, but i am worried something else may have caused it. The battery has normal charge (not over charging), anyone run into this?
Thanks -
:mellow:
[image: View Post]unbalanced, on 29 August 2010 - 12:36 PM, said:
My $700 VFR750 died an my second trip, up untill then I was very impressed.... Looks like the 'starter switch' in front of the batttery had a melt down. I ordered a new one, but i am worried something else may have caused it. The battery has normal charge (not over charging), anyone run into this?
Thanks -
:mellow:
hi there sad to say but its not uncommon for electrical problems on 3rd and 4th gens.more info to help you check out the charging system is in the electrical section.do it before you take a long trip.hope you get sorted. :mellow:
[image: View Post]unbalanced, on 29 August 2010 - 12:36 PM, said:
.. I ordered a new one, but i am worried something else may have caused it.
If the 30A fuse didn't blow then you have a short circuit to ground on the starter cable somewhere on your bike. If it has ever slid on the ground then parts of the wiring harness could be damaged and bare wires touching the frame, etc. My guess is that a $700 vfr has likely been in a wreck or lowslide. If you put the new part on without finding the short it will fry again, don't ask me how i know...
OK, I went through all the cables and no open shorts anywhere. I replaced the melted starter switch and started trouble shootin' According to the manual, the starter is the problem... it does not turn over when directly connected to the battery with the ignition on (by-passing the switch). I pull it out and it turns slowly, but turns. Now the question: would a bad starter cause the starter switch to melt, and not blow a fuse?
If your starter is dragging it would put a larger draw (creating excessive heat) on the system. Over time this could damage the solenoid. When you jumpered the starter how did you do it (pics would be great)? How about when you hooked it directly to the battery. What size wire did you use?
I used the cable that goes from the switch to the starter - should be able to carry the same current. I am leaning this way, may have to get a new starter....
[image: View Post]unbalanced, on 02 September 2010 - 05:00 PM, said:
OK, I went through all the cables and no open shorts anywhere. I replaced the melted starter switch and started trouble shootin' According to the manual, the starter is the problem... it does not turn over when directly connected to the battery with the ignition on (by-passing the switch). I pull it out and it turns slowly, but turns. Now the question: would a bad starter cause the starter switch to melt, and not blow a fuse?
Great, you have found the source of the electrical problem, and yes a stalled starter could melt the switch. A dc brush motor (starter motor) produces maximun torque and draws the maximum current when it is stalled--so something mechanical is keeping the rotor from spinning (jammed gear internal to motor, grim or spooge in bearings, etc.)
You may be able to remove the starter motor from the bike and connect it to power to determine which, then dismantle the starter and clean the bearings, etc. If the starter is still stalled when off the bike, then the starter is defective. If it spins like a banshee, then you have an internal mechanical problem with the bike and will need to pull the clutch cover to find out what is binding.
The 30 Amp fuse is not for the starter but for everything else on the bike. If it were blown then you would be looking elsewhere for the culprit.
[image: View Post]kennybobby, on 03 September 2010 - 09:20 AM, said:
[image: View Post]unbalanced, on 02 September 2010 - 05:00 PM, said:
OK, I went through all the cables and no open shorts anywhere. I replaced the melted starter switch and started trouble shootin' According to the manual, the starter is the problem... it does not turn over when directly connected to the battery with the ignition on (by-passing the switch). I pull it out and it turns slowly, but turns. Now the question: would a bad starter cause the starter switch to melt, and not blow a fuse?
Great, you have found the source of the electrical problem, and yes a stalled starter could melt the switch. A dc brush motor (starter motor) produces maximun torque and draws the maximum current when it is stalled--so something mechanical is keeping the rotor from spinning (jammed gear internal to motor, grim or spooge in bearings, etc.)
You may be able to remove the starter motor from the bike and connect it to power to determine which, then dismantle the starter and clean the bearings, etc. If the starter is still stalled when off the bike, then the starter is defective. If it spins like a banshee, then you have an internal mechanical problem with the bike and will need to pull the clutch cover to find out what is binding.
The 30 Amp fuse is not for the starter but for everything else on the bike. If it were blown then you would be looking elsewhere for the culprit.
Ibench tested it, and it wasn't stalled, but was not spinning fast at all. So new starter is in order - thanks for all the help!
:fing02:
Well - my VF1000R starter is the same, so I bolted it in and no go. My voltmeter had a low battery and turns out the battery was low, I charged it up and she starts. Here's where the disturbing part comes in - new switch back in and charged battery, all is well. Charging at 14.5 V at 5000 rpm... what could have caused it? could it be just a bad starter switch?
I suggest reading up on the Regulator/Rectifier. Melted contacts at the starter relay one of the symptoms of a faulty R/R. The cause is most likely also due to poor contact at this point as already suggested. However if I was you I would give my R/R a voltage check first to make sure it seems okay. You diagnosis of a battery with low charge is good...I had the same symptoms when I bought mine and a new battery was the solution.
If the battery is okay, and the R/R checks okay, then hopefully the bike will be okay. It could well be that the damage at the starter relay occurred before you bought it, and once you restore good contact there there you may not get any further problems. It is possible that the previous owner replaced the R/R but didn't fix the starter wiring as it was still working, even though it had been overheated sometime.
The wiring is definitely not up to the job and you can buy replacement parts, as well as a complete upgrade for the wiring.
See http://www.vfrdiscus...1990-1997-vfrs/
End of thread · 13 posts recoveredWayback Machine snapshot 2 Oct 2010