So if you were going to shaker can a bike

Flat black is not out of the question at this point. I've made up my mind on a few things:

a. I'm not going to wait to save the money to do a professional job.

b. My bike is 11 years old and a pro job might be like putting an addition on a camper.

c. I'm good enough, smart enough, and dog gone it, I can paint my own motorcycle.

d. I've got the colors narrowed down to three... metallic blue, dark metallic gray (think 2006 VFR), something like the CBR600RR Orange.

Your input is appreciated... AndIThankYou.

- Jim

no idea about the poll.

I think I'd go for the orange or the blue.

no idea about the poll.

I think I'd go for the orange or the blue.

I vote orange and blue. WAR EAGLE! :laughing6-hehe:

Just curious, what's your budget? I would think that there's some small shop in your area that would shoot a solid color for cheap...

Over the years, I always been able to locate and do some business this way on project bikes.

craigslist is your friend.

I used ColorRite on a 636 in Ninja Green. Wasn't great, wasn't awful. Color looked to be pretty good, I just sprayed the sides to match the factory tank and upper, and it matched ok. People with patience can get reasonable results from a rattle can. I'm not one of those people. It was a 20 footer, at best! :laughing6-hehe:
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Krylon or store brand on the old track bikes in the past. :fing02:

Actually, I'm considering the ColorRite route again for my '99. Probably won't have the time or cash to get it done before TMac, though. So, really what would be the point? :mellow:

Just curious, what's your budget? I would think that there's some small shop in your area that would shoot a solid color for cheap...

Over the years, I always been able to locate and do some business this way on project bikes.

craigslist is your friend.

I checked the local shop... $1,300.00. Nothing else I could find local.

There's a place in MD that will shoot a one color for $600.00 minimum (he shoots PPG paints); but it's 6 weeks for him to get to it.

I was going to save the $600 and do it, but for a quarter of that, I could be done next weekend..

Actually, I'm considering the ColorRite route again for my '99. Probably won't have the time or cash to get it done before TMac, though. So, really what would be the point? :mellow:

Sounds like you have another year to save up for what you want. :fing02:

If you really take your time with the prep work and you apply several very light coats along with some wet sanding and and clearcoat, you can actually get very decent results from rattle can paint jobs.

In my opinion, darker colors seem to come out better, and I think I'd skip the blue and orange options.

Yellow fifth gens are relatively rare. If the stock paint is in good shape, I'd seriously consider just leaving it, or trying to find another fifth gen owner who'd be up for swapping plastics with you.

Either way, good luck and be sure to post some pics of the results.

Go, read, and sin no more:

DIY rattle can

Be sure to read and follow mfgrs instructions on paint.

I did my own front fender with Colorrite 3 part Crystal Pearl White, looks OEM for a R1 front fender on a 3rd gen white VFR.

Larry
VFRrider

I have had good luck with both duplicolor and colorite. The key is good prep! Read up on it and follow the instructions on the paint. Remember to spray a tack coat first and let all coats cure well before the next one gets sprayed. A clean dust free area is a lot of help too. A simple sheet of drop cloth and a spritzer bottle can turn any enclosed space into a decent spray booth :fing02:

Toro1 has an orange 5th gen and Axel_7 an orange 6th gen in their galleries if you'd like to see either in that color.

Painted my old ZX600 with Krylon. Lotsa work, but came out better than i thought it would.

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Normally, I would say to stay AWAY from dark colors because flaws pop out like a flare at midnight but MBrane seems to have the magic touch with a rattle can. Awesome work!

it doesnt matter if you use spray can or ,1,000,000,000,000 paint by a pro..
if the prep work and sanding is done in between coats s it will look good!

a shop called "mobtown" spray cans most of there stuff satin black.
it so silky smooth its crazy.

then clearcoat and sand with 600 grip a few times..
its all about the WORK , not the paint. :fing02:

You don't like the yellow? BLASPHEMY!!!!!!!

If you want some wild colors, Black Gold sells House of Kolors in spray cans. I painted my RC51 front fender using their products and the paint was an absolutely perfect match. As has already been said, prep and finishing work is everything, so if you're willing to invest the time, you can do it.


Also, if you have a friend (or a friend of a friend) who does paint work, see what they'll quote you for the whole job -- it might end up being the only way to go (I had my entire bike painted for $250, including materials).

No Comment.

If you really take your time with the prep work and you apply several very light coats along with some wet sanding and and clearcoat, you can actually get very decent results from rattle can paint jobs.

Agreed. I painted a couple of bicycle frames with off the shelf Krylon and can say they turned out quite nice. I did spend several hours though sanding and polishing.

where's the "I know you and you won't be happy once it's done" vote option? cover it with decal kit for a $100, till you can do it the way you want..

What is the goal?
If it's to save money, and enjoy the experience then you should go with it.
As everyone said, be prepared to spend more than one weekend though if you want any kinda decent results.

Don't have an opinion on the choice of suppliers, but I do like the orange.
One other advantage of the orange is that it may better hide the imperfections. IMHO.

I've painted my truck interior with a spray can and what seemed like an easy job turned into lots and lots of sanding, spraying, waiting, sanding, .............

Enjoy :biggrin:

No Comment.

"If you choose not to decide, you still have made a choice" :goofy:

No Comment.

"If you choose not to decide, you still have made a choice" :goofy:

You're not secretly Canadian are you? :dry:
It never hurts to be vigilant :laughing6-hehe:

Wow, over 12 hours, and no one's posted a picture of Timmy's special house brand paint?

Many, many hours sanding, painting, sanding, painting, sanding, painting... I put about 3 coats of primer, 7-8 coats of red, 5-6 coats of clear. To finish I wet sanded with more and more fine grit (up to 2000) and then polished/buffed it by hand. A ton of work and I messed up on a few spots, but I was proud of it when I was done

[image: Posted Image]
Finished

[image: Posted Image]
Painted the detail by hand

If you want some wild colors, Black Gold sells House of Kolors in spray cans. I painted my RC51 front fender using their products and the paint was an absolutely perfect match. As has already been said, prep and finishing work is everything, so if you're willing to invest the time, you can do it.


Also, if you have a friend (or a friend of a friend) who does paint work, see what they'll quote you for the whole job -- it might end up being the only way to go (I had my entire bike painted for $250, including materials).

This brings me to another question: how much of each product (Primer, Base, Clear) might I need for my 5th Gen?

where's the "I know you and you won't be happy once it's done" vote option? cover it with decal kit for a $100, till you can do it the way you want..

You mean like a big wing or tribal across the sides? That's a possibility, too. But, I'm seriously tired of the yellow and if I don't do something this season, I'm thinking I'm not going to do it at all...

(sorry Lobster... to each his own)

No Comment.

I know what I'd want to do in a perfect world, Seb. But, that doesn't seem to be happening this season.

If you decide to do a Timmy flat black use SEM's trim black. Easy to spot back in.

Don't wash it.

So, I wen't from this

[image: Posted Image]

to falling over and going to this

[image: Posted Image]
[image: Posted Image]

To tipping over and going to this

[image: Posted Image]
[image: Posted Image]

And I'm respraying it Navy blue with gold wheels as we speak. Always rattle canned. I use a full can per body panel, so I go thru about 5 cans. Just wash the panels and dry them really well. Paint the inside of the panels too so you don't see yellow around the vent edges. Also, don't use flat black. Look for Satin Black wheel paint. Best finish I could have hoped for, and just enough shine to not be a rat bike. Makes the brushed silver frame look amazing too.

to falling over and going to this

[image: Posted Image]
[image: Posted Image]

To tipping over and going to this

[image: Posted Image]
[image: Posted Image]

I'm surprised Timmy hasn't jumped in screaming blasphemy for this color change.

Best finish I could have hoped for, and just enough shine to not be a rat bike.

I can hear you, ....you know.

You don't like the yellow? BLASPHEMY!!!!!!!

Lobster...

I put my bike next to Jim's, his yellow is WAY OFF. It isn't the beautiful yellow we have. I hate to say it, but Jim's yellow is quite, er, um, bland.

Best finish I could have hoped for, and just enough shine to not be a rat bike.

I can hear you, ....you know.

I regret nothing. :wink:

Best finish I could have hoped for, and just enough shine to not be a rat bike.

I can hear you, ....you know.

quit bragging! :goofy: :laughing6-hehe:

Okay - so Timmy sends me a Facebook post and says, "No you won't." As in, I won't actually paint my bike using shaker cans. And, dammit, he might be half right.

I found a paint shop in Philly that will do the job for a reasonable rate - PPG Shopline paints. Finalizing details with him and will likely pull the trigger on this in the next week or two.

Timmy = the Oracle. Who knew (besides Timmy of course)??

You don't like the yellow? BLASPHEMY!!!!!!!

Lobster...

I put my bike next to Jim's, his yellow is WAY OFF. It isn't the beautiful yellow we have. I hate to say it, but Jim's yellow is quite, er, um, bland.

It's true. It's like a washed out yellow.

If mine were the same color as your two bikes, I would just do a big wing or tribal on the side fairings and suck it up until I was ready to buy the RWB or metallic black 6th Gen (of course, then I'd bitch about the VTec surge, and wish for a 7th Gen).

[image: Posted Image]

And I'm respraying it Navy blue with gold wheels as we speak. Always rattle canned. I use a full can per body panel, so I go thru about 5 cans. Just wash the panels and dry them really well. Paint the inside of the panels too so you don't see yellow around the vent edges. Also, don't use flat black. Look for Satin Black wheel paint. Best finish I could have hoped for, and just enough shine to not be a rat bike. Makes the brushed silver frame look amazing too.

Where you at, man? If this falls through with the shop, I might come see you with a handful of green paper with pictures of dead presidents. :cool:

.

Timmy = the Oracle. Who knew (besides Timmy of course)??

Next time just say "You know much that is hidden, oh Tim."
[video: http://youtube.com/v/yTKdHbiLim0?version=3]

Where you at, man? If this falls through with the shop, I might come see you with a handful of green paper with pictures of dead presidents. :cool:

About an hour out of San Francisco. Plus, cell phone pictures from ten feet make the bike look better than it really is.

dammit I hate the yellow

I cannot fathom this concept
I have nothing to add
:tongue: :tongue:

dammit I hate the yellow

I cannot fathom this concept
I have nothing to add
:tongue: :tongue:

Makes good primer.

Timmy... I know where he stores the bike.. Let's surprise him!

Timmy... I know where he stores the bike.. Let's surprise him!

i'm with you, not against you
[image: Posted Image]

Where you at, man? If this falls through with the shop, I might come see you with a handful of green paper with pictures of dead presidents. :cool:

About an hour out of San Francisco. Plus, cell phone pictures from ten feet make the bike look better than it really is.

My old stompin' grounds.

Timmy... I know where he stores the bike.. Let's surprise him!

i'm with you, not against you
[image: Posted Image]

The 'Hello Kitty' treatment, eh?? I'm watchin' fer you summmbiatches.

it doesnt matter if you use spray can or ,1,000,000,000,000 paint by a pro..
if the prep work and sanding is done in between coats s it will look good!

a shop called "mobtown" spray cans most of there stuff satin black.
it so silky smooth its crazy.

then clearcoat and sand with 600 grip a few times..
its all about the WORK , not the paint. :fing02:

+1000

I spent a lot of time sanding that ZX. Paint, sand, paint, sand, paint, sand.......

Would have been a bit less if I had a proper booth, and such but I digress......

I'm done with the newest rattle can job. Got crazy and did the wheels too.

[image: Posted Image]
[image: Posted Image]

Rust-o-leam Navy Blue and Rust-o-leam flat gold on the wheels. I dig it. Paints not too glossy.

I'm done with the newest rattle can job. Got crazy and did the wheels too.

[image: Posted Image]
Rust-o-leam Navy Blue and Rust-o-leam flat gold on the wheels. I dig it. Paints not too glossy.

Not bad. If I go blue, it will be this one:

[image: Posted Image]

Just curious, what's your budget? I would think that there's some small shop in your area that would shoot a solid color for cheap...

Over the years, I always been able to locate and do some business this way on project bikes.

craigslist is your friend.

I checked the local shop... $1,300.00. Nothing else I could find local.

There's a place in MD that will shoot a one color for $600.00 minimum (he shoots PPG paints); but it's 6 weeks for him to get to it.

I was going to save the $600 and do it, but for a quarter of that, I could be done next weekend..

Where is that place in MD? Sounds like a good winter project...

Just curious, what's your budget? I would think that there's some small shop in your area that would shoot a solid color for cheap...

Over the years, I always been able to locate and do some business this way on project bikes.

craigslist is your friend.

I checked the local shop... $1,300.00. Nothing else I could find local.

There's a place in MD that will shoot a one color for $600.00 minimum (he shoots PPG paints); but it's 6 weeks for him to get to it.

I was going to save the $600 and do it, but for a quarter of that, I could be done next weekend..

Where is that place in MD? Sounds like a good winter project...

the painter at my work can do some on the side 1 color about 1200 and he is AWESOME!!! let me know when you want to paint :fing02:

I painted my bike with duplicolor rattle cans, waited about 3 weeks for the paint to thoroughly cure, and then painted a German company's urethane paint in a rattle can over the duplicolor.

Duplicolor is cheap and easy to use, has good UV and fading resistance, but doesn't stand up to chemicals (gas, oil, raod tar, etc) as well as urethane.

Paints like duplicolor cure boindg with the lower layer and through evaporation. Urethane cures through cross-linking. You can paint urethane clear over duplicolor rattle cans *after* the duplicolor has fully cured - but not vice-versa.

THis is how I did my bike, pics below:

#

1) Perform any plastic repairs first.

2) Sand smooth to the eye and the touch. Hold the parts at several angles to catch the light so you can be sure they are really smooth.

3) Wipedown with MEK then Dawn dishwashing detergent works about as good as any commercial degreaser for prep. Don;t get the MEK on your hands, use good ventilation. Wash the parts in Dawn and clear water until the water evenly sheets on the entire surface of the parts. Do NOT use MEK once you've started painting. You can find MEK at the orange box store.

4) When you're done sanding, wash the parts with Dawn & water again. Then don't touch prepped parts with your bare hands - wear the cheapie plastic gloves you can get from almost any good-sized auto parts store..

5) Paint following the Duplicolor directions. Go very slowly and follow their directions in a dust-free well ventilated place.

6) Paint with duplicolor clear following the manufacturer's directions.

7) Wait 2-3 days, then wet-sand the clear and re-wash the parts, let them dry and put on a last coat of clear. Do not use any cleaner or wax just yet.

8) Wait 3-4 weeks for the paint to thoroughly cure, then degrease them with Dawn again and dry & paint several coats with this stuff. Be sure to allow adequate time between coats.

http://www.repaintsu..._2k_aerosol.cfm

Let this 2K urethane paint dry at least overnight before touching the parts. The smell is really nasty and will mess up your lungs if you don't use it in a ventilated dust-free place.

9) Wet-sand and polish if you like, but with the 2K urethane paint it's not really necessary.

##

Sorry if this is a long rant, but basically don't sweat the paint choice. Use whoever has colors that you like and then go from there. Unless you urethane top-coat it, other paints won;t hold up to chemicals like urethane does.

I painted my bike with duplicolor rattle cans, waited about 3 weeks for the paint to thoroughly cure, and then painted a German company's urethane paint in a rattle can over the duplicolor.

Duplicolor is cheap and easy to use, has good UV and fading resistance, but doesn't stand up to chemicals (gas, oil, raod tar, etc) as well as urethane.

Paints like duplicolor cure boindg with the lower layer and through evaporation. Urethane cures through cross-linking. You can paint urethane clear over duplicolor rattle cans *after* the duplicolor has fully cured - but not vice-versa.

THis is how I did my bike, pics below:

#

1) Perform any plastic repairs first.

2) Sand smooth to the eye and the touch. Hold the parts at several angles to catch the light so you can be sure they are really smooth.

3) Wipedown with MEK then Dawn dishwashing detergent works about as good as any commercial degreaser for prep. Don;t get the MEK on your hands, use good ventilation. Wash the parts in Dawn and clear water until the water evenly sheets on the entire surface of the parts. Do NOT use MEK once you've started painting. You can find MEK at the orange box store.

4) When you're done sanding, wash the parts with Dawn & water again. Then don't touch prepped parts with your bare hands - wear the cheapie plastic gloves you can get from almost any good-sized auto parts store..

5) Paint following the Duplicolor directions. Go very slowly and follow their directions in a dust-free well ventilated place.

6) Paint with duplicolor clear following the manufacturer's directions.

7) Wait 2-3 days, then wet-sand the clear and re-wash the parts, let them dry and put on a last coat of clear. Do not use any cleaner or wax just yet.

8) Wait 3-4 weeks for the paint to thoroughly cure, then degrease them with Dawn again and dry & paint several coats with this stuff. Be sure to allow adequate time between coats.

http://www.repaintsu..._2k_aerosol.cfm

Let this 2K urethane paint dry at least overnight before touching the parts. The smell is really nasty and will mess up your lungs if you don't use it in a ventilated dust-free place.

9) Wet-sand and polish if you like, but with the 2K urethane paint it's not really necessary.

##

Sorry if this is a long rant, but basically don't sweat the paint choice. Use whoever has colors that you like and then go from there. Unless you urethane top-coat it, other paints won;t hold up to chemicals like urethane does.

pics??

I'm done with the newest rattle can job. Got crazy and did the wheels too.

[image: Posted Image]
[image: Posted Image]

Rust-o-leam Navy Blue and Rust-o-leam flat gold on the wheels. I dig it. Paints not too glossy.

Man that Flat Gold looks really cool. My bike is a 3rd gen painted RWB like the 1986/7 model. Right now I've got white wheels but they're a bitch to keep clean. Might go with the Flat Gold instead.

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• [image: with-flowers.jpg]

Prep is at least as important as the paint.
I rattle can painted a 1977 Yamaha XS750 once, gas tank, 2 fenders, 2 little side covers. No fairing.
It was a ridiculous amount of work, but if I dug up a picture and scanned it, would look good from internet distance, OK from 10 feet.

Swore I would never go through all that again. Better to Pay the man, Homer. :goofy:

Prep is at least as important as the paint.
I rattle can painted a 1977 Yamaha XS750 once, gas tank, 2 fenders, 2 little side covers. No fairing.
It was a ridiculous amount of work, but if I dug up a picture and scanned it, would look good from internet distance, OK from 10 feet.

Swore I would never go through all that again. Better to Pay the man, Homer. :goofy:

Yeah unless you just like working on projects or are on a limited budget. Painting is a pant-load of work.