So, a month or so back i made a thread posting up some ideas I was milling around in my mind of what i was going to do with my recently acquired and wadded up '95 VFR
At the same time, i'm rebuilding a 100yr old house, and also built a garage out back.
So during a couple lunch breaks i broke the VFR down as much as i could with the limited hand tools i have available (my home-goods get delivered in a month, YAY!) and started doing a little mockup to keep me inspired while i finish up my house.
[image: vfrcbr.jpg]
basically i got the old bent forks off, swapped on the 929 forks, rigged up the wheel to sit on until the new bearings come in, then removed the subframe and mocked up the CBR piece.
still have a long ways to go, like mounting the subframe for real, swapping out the swingarm and shock (929 shock/900rr swinger) making the bodywork fit properly, making a new midpipe, replacing the radiator and side cover and on and on and on...
anyways, hope you guys like what i've got so far....
lets see a pic of the rd400 !!!! Project looks like its off to a good start :fing02:
the RD is in storage with the rest of our home-goods, and it stalled about 6 months ago when we found out we were moving and i need to make about half dozen various spacers to finish it up. pics here: http://www.2strokewo...hp?topic=9106.0
btl68
Looks neat so far!
SEBSPEED
Looks good!
THANKS!
Motographer
Looks like a great project! CBR1000RR plastics?
yup, best looking japanese plastics in decades i would argue. too bad the newest RR wasn't a V4 aprilia-killer.
Awesome, i'm just starting my own project. I didn't realise you could use the vfr front wheel with the 929 axle, could you give me the sizes. Would love to see pics as you progress.
Awesome, i'm just starting my own project. I didn't realise you could use the vfr front wheel with the 929 axle, could you give me the sizes. Would love to see pics as you progress.
the VFR wheel can work, you just need to get new bearings and center spacer. both the wheels i'm using are from an RC51, if i had known better (that the wheel on the VFR was still pretty straight despite the bent forks) i would have just gotten the correct bearings for it and a plain 900rr rear wheel and saved myself a little trouble. the RC51 wheels i got were a pretty good deal tho and complete so a i can't complain.
what bearings work with the 929 axle and vfr wheel? i couldnt find any during my brief search. id rather use what i have than buy rc51 wheels, but the rotor spacer is kind of a plan killer.
I stand corrected on the RC rim Vs VFR/F3, the OD of the RC bearings is same as 929/954, VFR/F3 OD is smaller by at least 3-4mm, so it's not as easy as just swapping bearings, but that doesn't mean it can't work. you could turn the axle down a few mm's and run a more compatible bearing, or have a custom axle made to use the VFR bearings.
not sure what fork/wheel/brake rotor combo you're using flyguy, but the RC rotors are a match for the complete 954 front end i've put on.
So really, one could get an rc wheel and use the 929 axle with 929 bearings then, correct? just hafta make a new center spacer or use the 929 spacer if its the right length. I have 929 rotors.
So really, one could get an rc wheel and use the 929 axle with 929 bearings then, correct? just hafta make a new center spacer or use the 929 spacer if its the right length. I have 929 rotors.
that is correct! 929 rotors bolt on the RC rim too.
So really, one could get an rc wheel and use the 929 axle with 929 bearings then, correct? just hafta make a new center spacer or use the 929 spacer if its the right length. I have 929 rotors.
the 929/954 wheel bearings are 6005's... the standard vfr are 6004's.. Easy swap!
The 929 axle is larger in diameter, the 6005's account for this.
The brake discs are not a direct fitment..
spacers for the discs will need fabricating, large job. As will new wheel spacers.
In my case it was anyway!
Easy alternatives will be.. Any modern blade front wheel 2002 onwards, should work with no adjustments/spacers needed as they are all the larger inner diameter type. much lighter too, less bolts especially ...
REALLY. hmm. i might go forward with my plans anyway then. at least that takes SOME of the work out of it.
not sure if this helps but this is a different wheel option i did and i too had to change bearings and do some some axle mods http://www.vfrdiscus...t-wheel-option/
Have a little bit to report since the last visit, the swingarm and suspension went on with ease, mocked up the fr/rr subframes and bodywork better.
on the swingarm, as reported earlier, some material needs removed form the frame, doesn't even need to be very accurate, and then either the swingarm bearing bolt from a 900rr, or modify the vfr one (shorten it substantially, and accurately faced since it holds contact) and voila!
still need to make a new clevis for the shock, pipe the headers thru the swingarm, make a mid-pipe, make actual rear subframe and bodywork mounts.
should be one nice little riding VFR.
also, for the record, the 900rr rear swinger/caliper/rc51 wheel is 19.5lbs lighter than the VFR swingarm/wheel/caliper. add in the lost weight of fiberglass bodywork vs. stock, lightweight race can vs. stock, and 1000rr aluminum subframe/light seat vs. stock, lighter RC51 front wheel, slightly lighter 954 forks/triples, 520 chain conversion and i would bet all day long this thing is at least 100 lbs lighter.
minor update, acquired the rest of the replacements for all the broken stuff, (one coil got smashed, the radiator & oil cooler, clutch cover, levers etc)
also got a set of carbs off a recently running bike (mine sat for three years, and a the cost of gaskets/misc parts for the rebuild was the same as these carbs)
a less dented/rusted tank
and a 929 shock for experiments sake (supposedly has the same rate spring vs the 954 having a lighter rate?)
also scored a complete full set of 900rr rearsets for real cheap.
i gave up on the RC51 rear wheel, the hub area is way too wide on both sides, no real way to get correct chainline and make caliper/rotor work. much easier to just bolt on a 900rr rear wheel that looks identical.
also, playing around with the 900rr and vfr linkages.....more to follow
i gave up on the RC51 rear wheel, the hub area is way too wide on both sides, no real way to get correct chainline and make caliper/rotor work. much easier to just bolt on a 900rr rear wheel that looks identical.
also, playing around with the 900rr and vfr linkages.....more to follow
Have you considered an offset front sprocket and/or a different rear hub and/or machining of your RC hub?
More detail on the RC wheel failure is required. I might have the same issues with my 929 rear wheel...
you might. on the RC rear wheel i tried, would have required moving the sprocket/cush drive inboard about 1/2-3/4 inch, as well as making the caliper hanger paper thin on the other side....again, so much easier and cheaper to use the wheel made for the swingarm, and it even looks identical.
SEBSPEED
Have you considered an offset front sprocket and/or a different rear hub and/or machining of your RC hub?
see above....much easier to just resell RC wheel for same price as 900rr wheel...
VFR4Lee
How you manage rebuilding an old house, build a garage (maybe that's done by now, I'd hope), and a bike project is beyond me.
I'd be happy if I found time to ride after the house stuff. :ohmy:
Err, good luck. :beer:
well, the house is almost done (we've moved into it anyways, just alot of detail painting left...all the inspections finalize tuesday... the garage was easy, only took about five days, too bad it's FULL now.... and the bikes will all be getting more attention after the holidays...
the caliper hanger shouldnt be too thin, the 929 has the same distance opening as the 900rr, 255mm.
unless your trying to use the 900 hanger in place of the 929 hanger....
caliper/hanger/spacers/axle/swingarm, basically everything out back is 900rr except the wheel, which is now also 900rr....
honestly there's no telling if the rc51 stuff is remotely close to the same as 929 stuff, is the 929 wheel 6 inches wide? the rc wheel i have is...the case may be the 929 stuff is closer the 900rr stuff than RC51 stuff
actually, the rc51 caliper hanger looks like it would line up nicely with the 900rr swingarm. im going to pick one up and check it out. will have to be bushed to fit the 20mm axle, but thats no biggie. ive already planned to swap the bearings in the 929 wheel to get me 20mm id.
yup, haha the RC wheel has been replaced with a 900rr wheel!
the cush drive needed to be moved inboard, as well as the rotor being too far outboard for the 900rr caliper hanger.
you're still using a 900rr swingarm right? if so, if i were you and just wanted a 3 spoke wheel to match the front, a superhawk wheel is 5.5" as well as cross compatible with 900rr (i had a superhawk once that i wanted 6-spoke wheels on and the 900rr rear was a direct swap)
otherwise if you're hell bent on using the RC51 wheel, it's probably the same amount of work to adapt the RC51 swingarm/caliper etc...
So with the 900rr swingarm, which left side pivot spacer are you using to center the swingarm? My 600rr swingarm conversion is turning into a pita(linkage), so I think I may go with the 900rr ARM to keep it simple.
on the threaded adjuster side (right side as-seated) use the 900rr threaded adjuster or have 12mm removed from the vfr piece (pretty easy to find the threaded piece on ebay, i did anyways) you'll have to cut off some of the thickness of the threaded part of the frame too, doesn't have to be neat, just cut enough off. if you've ever seen a 900rr frame there's even less material than you can cut off.
just to be sure we're talking about the same left and right, you mean chain side or brake side? because i said right side as-seated (which would be the brake side) you don't do anything to the left (chain) side, it lines up perfect.
Cool, its amazing to me how when I centered the 600rr swingarm on my project, the chain run was lined up almost perfectly as well. Honda must use the same dimension (sprocket offset from wheel centerline) on quite a few of their bikes. So how does the linkage line up to the dogbone pivot point on the frame?
linkages line up the same using the vfr dogbone and link, i'm about to take off the centerstand and see if the 900rr dogbone and link works and if there's any advantage (like ride height or shock leverage because they are slightly different dimensions, with 900rr dogbone being a little shorter and link plates have one of the holes offest less)
After the dust from the holidays settles some, I'll be removing the centerstand finally and will check into using the 900rr linkages with the 929 shock. also need to have another long look at a 900rr frame nearby to double check the dogbone mounts in the same relative position as the VFR
yeah, i know about the vfr swinger on 900rr's, i did that a LONG time ago, like a decade ago, but always used the 900rr plates and dogbones on the 900rr.
so, yes the link plates *and* dogbones are different, but also the swingarm link mount points are in the same relative position on each swingarm, and i'll find out in about two weeks if the same is true of the frames when i compare them side by side.
either way, makes me think they are interchangeable even though they are different (dogbones and link plates) and that swapping them would give a more "sporting" linkage rate than the VFR does standard.
(also keep in mind the 900rr shock is just slightly shorter eye-to-eye than the VFR shock, may be that's the reason for the difference in the dogbone/linkplate, but i am pretty sure it's for what i said earlier)
im thinking the difference in link plates is due to the length of the swingarm. longer swingarm would require a longer offset in the link plate, for mechanical advantage. its all lever arms and whatnot im guessing. if u used the vfr link plates on the 900 arm (which im not so sure you can) it might be too stiffly sprung.
You can figure out your linkage ratio pretty easily by mounting each linkage with th shock removed and measure the the amount of shock movement vs. Swingarm movement. Most sportbikes have about 5" of wheel travel, so just measure the amount of movement the hole where the shock would mount to in the triangle plate per inch of movement at the rear axle from full extension. Divide the wheel movement by your shock movement to get your ratio. You'll have to graph each inch of wheel movement to see if your ratio is linear or progressive, but at least you can compare the VFR linkage to the cbr and figure out your spring rate.
Also, the dogbone length affects rear ride height more than anything else, shorter = higher. unless there is a drastic difference in length, the dogbone usually doesn't affect the ratio too much.
good info again. the dogbone is about a 1/4 to 1/2 inch shorter just from eyeballing it, so it'll be good to use either way since the 929/954 shock eye-to-eye is so much shorter (stroke is the same)
good info again. the dogbone is about a 1/4 to 1/2 inch shorter just from eyeballing it, so it'll be good to use either way since the 929/954 shock eye-to-eye is so much shorter (stroke is the same)
Sounds like you'll have plenty of ride height adjustment options to get your swing arm angle where you want it.
I'm no expert, but according to Dave Moss (catalyst reaction) around 12 degrees is supposed to be a good starting point for a track bike. I had mine set at 12.5 degrees with a 23.5 degree rake(CBR600RR spec on the rake) before I took it apart.
if the axle hole is bushed down to size, the rc51 rear brake stay works PERFECTLY with the 900rr swingarm. so if u wanna try the rc wheel again get one of those. make sure its an sp1 cause i thnk the others are different. i just tried it in my arm. ill post a pic. the brake tab lines up nicely:)
give the rc wheel a chance! lol you can run a 190 wheel then, and bigger always looks better lol
alright, things are getting back into a routine and i get a little bit done most everyday....
fired the bike up yesterday....it had sat for probably close to three years since it was wadded up and needed a few things, bought a set of carbs off a running bike from fleabay, as well as a coil to replace one that was destroyed, also put an undamaged clutch cover on...but yeah it fired right up, and i'm excited for it again.
hopefully within the next two weeks i can start routing the rear headers, and finalize the fairing brackets and seat subframe.....it's so weird most of this stuff is going on as if it were meant to.
if the axle hole is bushed down to size, the rc51 rear brake stay works PERFECTLY with the 900rr swingarm. so if u wanna try the rc wheel again get one of those. make sure its an sp1 cause i thnk the others are different. i just tried it in my arm. ill post a pic. the brake tab lines up nicely:)
give the rc wheel a chance! lol you can run a 190 wheel then, and bigger always looks better lol
maybe someday when i have a lathe/milling machines i will make the RC wheel work. after comparing the two wheels directly, the main issue is getting the sprocket 10-15mm inboard
so, i have had a little free time to start tacking the headers together. i used part of a V&H SV650 full system, and a set of late model GSXR headers. I also began mocking up the brackets for the rear subframe. still need to connect and tack the rear headers.....
of course i'll be making a nicer exhaust hanger than the one i made to mock it all up, and i'll be shortening the muffler by 6in, then take it all back apart and tig it together on my workbench once i haul it from my parents old homeplace a few states away....anyways, this post would be worthless without pics!
Looking good! I just picked up a 99 900RR basket case to finish my project, even came with a 2-way Penske that looks to be in great shape, can't wait to get it going again!
Have you finalized the mounting for the Subframe? I am about to hang a 1000rr subframe on my 4th gen and would love to see a good solution before I embark.
finalized the subframe mounts for now, made a simple plate steel adapter plate for each side, trial and error. when my aluminum welding skills get better, i'll cut off the old mounts and reweld them.
I just checked the alignment of my 4th gen with the 900RR swingarm and the rear wheel was offset about 6mm to the right(throttle side).
The stock 900RR left side swingarm pivot spacer is approximately 41mm(measured 40.91 with my vernier calipers), and I just happened to have a 36mm swingarm pivot spacer left over from when I had the 600RR swingarm mounted. Swapped that spacer for the 900RR one and sure enough, I'm only out of alignment by 1mm. Unfortunately a 36mm spacer on the left side of the swingarm means it's almost flush with the left side pivot seal. Ideally the inner face of the frame where the spacer meets should be milled 1mm, but it has to be precise unlike the right side that doesn't touch anything once the pivot bolt is tightened up.
Another bonus to getting the wheels in better alignment is that the shock linkage is also aligned much better, the dogbone had zero side clearance before, now it can slide side to side about 1mm. Unfortunately it looks like the chain run is going to be off a bit now, but that should be easy enough to remedy.
I just checked the alignment of my 4th gen with the 900RR swingarm and the rear wheel was offset about 6mm to the right(throttle side).
The stock 900RR left side swingarm pivot spacer is approximately 41mm(measured 40.91 with my vernier calipers), and I just happened to have a 36mm swingarm pivot spacer left over from when I had the 600RR swingarm mounted. Swapped that spacer for the 900RR one and sure enough, I'm only out of alignment by 1mm. Unfortunately a 36mm spacer on the left side of the swingarm means it's almost flush with the left side pivot seal. Ideally the inner face of the frame where the spacer meets should be milled 1mm, but it has to be precise unlike the right side that doesn't touch anything once the pivot bolt is tightened up.
Another bonus to getting the wheels in better alignment is that the shock linkage is also aligned much better, the dogbone had zero side clearance before, now it can slide side to side about 1mm. Unfortunately it looks like the chain run is going to be off a bit now, but that should be easy enough to remedy.
The VF500F sprocket carrier fits the 900RR wheel and moves the rear sprocket approx. 6mm closer to the wheel. Check and see if an RC30 front sprocket will fit the 4th gen... that will space the chain outboard by about the same. That's what I ran on my 86 and now on my CB900 as well.
I just checked the alignment of my 4th gen with the 900RR swingarm and the rear wheel was offset about 6mm to the right(throttle side).
The stock 900RR left side swingarm pivot spacer is approximately 41mm(measured 40.91 with my vernier calipers), and I just happened to have a 36mm swingarm pivot spacer left over from when I had the 600RR swingarm mounted. Swapped that spacer for the 900RR one and sure enough, I'm only out of alignment by 1mm. Unfortunately a 36mm spacer on the left side of the swingarm means it's almost flush with the left side pivot seal. Ideally the inner face of the frame where the spacer meets should be milled 1mm, but it has to be precise unlike the right side that doesn't touch anything once the pivot bolt is tightened up.
Another bonus to getting the wheels in better alignment is that the shock linkage is also aligned much better, the dogbone had zero side clearance before, now it can slide side to side about 1mm. Unfortunately it looks like the chain run is going to be off a bit now, but that should be easy enough to remedy.
DAMMIT! JUST when I think I've got the 929 rear wheel situation sorted:(
I just checked the alignment of my 4th gen with the 900RR swingarm and the rear wheel was offset about 6mm to the right(throttle side).
The stock 900RR left side swingarm pivot spacer is approximately 41mm(measured 40.91 with my vernier calipers), and I just happened to have a 36mm swingarm pivot spacer left over from when I had the 600RR swingarm mounted. Swapped that spacer for the 900RR one and sure enough, I'm only out of alignment by 1mm. Unfortunately a 36mm spacer on the left side of the swingarm means it's almost flush with the left side pivot seal. Ideally the inner face of the frame where the spacer meets should be milled 1mm, but it has to be precise unlike the right side that doesn't touch anything once the pivot bolt is tightened up.
Another bonus to getting the wheels in better alignment is that the shock linkage is also aligned much better, the dogbone had zero side clearance before, now it can slide side to side about 1mm. Unfortunately it looks like the chain run is going to be off a bit now, but that should be easy enough to remedy.
what wheel are you using? i'm using a '96 900rr wheel and swingarm, the shock and linkages lines up perfectly as well as the chain alignment is perfect.
I'm using the complete rear end from a 98 900rr, wheel, swingarm, linkage etc. I would verify that your wheels are in-fact aligned before going much further. The way I did it was with tires off both rims, bike on a flat surface, take a long piece of string and wrap it around the back side of the rear wheel so that you have two lengths of string long enough to reach past the front wheel. Now take a 2X4 and lay it flat against the front of the front wheel and measure the exact width of the rear wheel and mark it on your 2X4. Take your two pieces of string pulled tight(you may have to tape them at the rear wheel side to keep them from sliding up the rear wheel) and tape them to their respective marks on the 2X4. Now center the 2X4 to the front wheel by making sure the string from the rear wheel just touches the front edge of the rear wheel. Now measure the distance between your marks on the 2X4 and the edge on the front wheel on both sides, subtract the difference and divide by 2 and that's how much your wheels are misaligned.
Maybe the difference between the early and late 900RR's means that yours is perfectly aligned as is, but wouldn't you like to know for sure?
Here's a pic that would probably explain my method a little better, this is not a 900RR arm obviously.
Yeah, that's the 600 arm. Fit beautifully except for the linkage. I think the magic number for the left side spacer is 35mm. This will make it flush, or near flush to the left pivot seal, but should get the wheels almost perfectly in line. I have a spare 96/97 swingarm with an extra left side spacer(which is also 41mm) that I'm going to get machined down to 35mm when I get a chance. This also means that you wouldn't have to remove as much material from the right side of frame either, too late for that now! Probably have to revert to the VFR threaded spacer as well.
And by bound up I mean its all forced to one side.
I think the fix for that is to have the sides of the dogbone milled 1-2mm, shouldn't affect strength much if at all. In fact the dogbone in my Daytona is about 66% as wide as the one on the Honda, all other dimensions are similar except length. I also have a couple of spare triangle plates from a street triple that have slightly different dimensions to the CBR900RR plates mounted on the bike currently. They've done two things, raised the rear of the bike slightly, and brought the shock further away from the swingarm pivot where there was hardly any clearance. Overall linkage ratio is about 2.5:1.
You should definitely measure your setup before you change anything. Like Seb said, there could be some variables between the different arms. One thing that's surprising to me is that the 96-97 arm looks nicer than the 98-99 arm, at least at the axle end. The 98/99 doesn't use the "blocks" to locate the axle, just the stamped steel adjusters.
I have a 93 arm on the bike and a 98 arm at the shop at work. As far as I could tell, the pivots are all in the same place. Personally, I preder the stamped adjusters over the blocks anyway:) but thay arm is far too dented and scratched to use on something I plan to make minty fresh.
Thats bizarre, did you do your meaurements with the tires removed?
Here are some pics of how my swingarm is lined up currently. First pic is with the 36mm spacer(still needs to be turned down to 35mm), second is showing the material removed from the frame and a 900RR threaded spacer, which is too short now(got an ebay 4th gen spacer on the way). Third pic is the stock 900RR 41mm spacer.
Can I ask, what is the reason for wanting to swap out rear swing arm to conventional swing arm when most want the single sided swing arm on other bikes, is it purely for weight saving which when you take into account the weight of the rest of bike is allot of work for little gain.
Yes weight mainly, and I'm pretty sure the 900RR swing arm is quite a bit less flexy than the VFR single sider, but I think that's mostly a bench racing point in reality.
Onespeedpaul found almost a 20 lb difference between the 900RR rear end vs. the VFR stuff. That's quite a bit of weight off an already rear-heavy bike! Since its so difficult to make power with these engines without spending lots of money, losing as much weight as possible is the only viable alternative to increase performance substantially. Now if I could only get this goddamn alignment figured out.
Just spent an hour out in the garage playing with swingarm offset and triple measuring everything, I think I've come to the conclusion that I don't have the front end perfectly centered, so I can't trust the measurement I'm getting for the rear. I need to figure out a way to center the triples in the frame, but there really isn't any reliable reference points to use. Looks like my front wheel has a small amount of runout as well. Used parts can be the biggest variable when it comes to this stuff.
Just spent an hour out in the garage playing with swingarm offset and triple measuring everything, I think I've come to the conclusion that I don't have the front end perfectly centered, so I can't trust the measurement I'm getting for the rear. I need to figure out a way to center the triples in the frame, but there really isn't any reliable reference points to use. Looks like my front wheel has a small amount of runout as well. Used parts can be the biggest variable when it comes to this stuff.
Time to load up your parts and schlep them over to GMD Computrak...
I may do that just to double check everything when I'm done, but I think I've figured out a "close enough" way to align the wheels, assuming everything is relatively straight. I know that my rear wheel is pointing straight ahead, at least in reference to the swingarm pivot since the distance from the axle to the pivot is exactly the same on both sides(hopefully my swingarm is straight, but there's not a whole lot I can do about that at the moment).
So I used my string alignment method using the rear wheel as my "straight ahead" reference, the only extra step I needed to do was measure the distance of the edge of the front wheel on both the front and back sides and make sure they are equal distance to the string, any difference front to rear means the wheel is turned. Looks like my front wheel was turned slightly to the left, throwing off my measurements(likely due to my not perfectly flat particle board table).
[image: frontwheel alignment]
Using this method I've determined that my 36mm spacer is pretty much spot on as far as aligning my bike. I'll have to verify it once its all put together on a professional alignment machine, but I don't think there will be any major changes required at that point.
been a long time, got back to work on my VFR750RR today, removed the headers to finish welding them, got some tires on the way too, going to finish this thing ASAP....
yesterday i spooned on new tires and alot of misc-type stuff like re-tightening bolts front to back, replacing the clutch line and rc51 clutch master, today i finished welding the headers together and put the chain on, it's going to be rideable real soon!
waiting for petcock, gas cap, dzus fasteners, muffler packing and still need to figure out a rearset solution, mainly for the brake side, thinking a set of basic woodcrafts meant for 900rr should be the doggies danglies.
we have a runner! this bike was totalled in 2007 and sat in a salvage yard til 2011, and then in my garage til now, i changed the oil, put on some flea-bay carbs, a new battery and it runs! albeit not well yet, won't hold idle, and seems to flood very easily....but it runs!!!
Flooding carbs can mean debris in the needle valve seat of the carb (I think I got the terminology right)... Even the tiniest speck can cause issues. Just a thought.
I need to figure out a brake side retarder solution, neither te VFR one or 900rr seem like they're going to be easy.
Anyways, I'm still waiting on my muffler packing and ytz10s battery to arrive and I should at a minimum be able to get a test ride around the block. In the meantime here's a pic: [image: zapuba9a.jpg]
Muffler packing and battery arrived. Really need to figure out what's up with carbs, first off the old fuel pump was as full of stalagmites as the original tank and carbs were, so I'm running it off gravity right now so it could be as simple as I need to put a pump inline, second could be needs synced, or maybe it just needs ran? It will fire up just fine from cold, but seems to cycle between bogging/starving an running real good. I've gotten it up tonoperating temp once an if I left it idling for long it stalls and wants to bog/starve. Anyways, thoughts from the crowd?
Nope, no return on these fuel systems, maybe post a pic and someone can identify. You can run gravity feed indefinitely, just don't run the tank dry, as it can be a pain to get the carbs primed without the pump. I've been running gravity feed on my bike for well over a year with no problems whatsoever
Yah I should have thought to snag a pic when the tank was off this morn. If it helps, it's a fuel line sized hose higher and slightly to the right if the fuel tee. Haha, I really don't think it's another fuel line, it's firing on all four the minute or so it runs right
i just remembered I had the old carbs this thing came with, the hose I'm talking about is off the angled four way connection. I have the biggest one and both fuel
Lines connected, just need to know where the other goes and hopefully it's the source of my problems!
Thinking I should go all black on the tank front fairing and front fender. Also probably going to try and drop the subframe by 1/2 to 3/4 inch if possible. [image: a4eba6e8.jpg]
Paint the small parts a light color and the big parts a dark color - the VFR is a big bike and the tank always looks out of place on the Frankenviffers.
Rode it around a little today, had to bleed the clutch a couple times while out, it kept pumping up for some reason? Also I think the R/R fried, it started stumbling like low fuel or low battery, and the R/R was wayyyy hot.