Riding earlier today I noticed the throttle getting a bit jerky. As I opened it and closed it a few times, the engine died and I rolled off the road in neutral. The FI light came on but shut off after a key restart. Restarted the bike, pointed it towards home (traffic and 12 miles or so) and had it happen a couple more times. After the last time it shut off, it ran OK, although at one point or another, some jerkiness was felt during gear changes.
I don't have a voltmeter to test with. I do remember a few days a go when I stupidly stalled a couple times in quick succession smelling something burning for a bit. Other than that, I can't think of any related symptoms.
I haven't noticed any other electrical issues (although I did swap in a new battery yesterday, come to think of it). The clock did not reset and there were no issues with the bike starting.
Soooo, am I looking in the right direction here? Ironic if that's the case, seeing as I have a VFRness in the mail as a preventative measure.
You really need a meter to check voltages, but checking the integrity of all the connections is a good place to start until you can get one. Even a cheap one is better than nothing. I have a throw-away Harbor Freight multimeter that lives in one of my saddlebags at all times. If it breaks or gets lost/stolen no problem just grab another. My Fluke stays in the garage.
Thanks all. I picked up a multimeter and am going to dig into it. I rode around some more yesterday and did not experience any more issues, which reminds me somewhat of an issue I had with the headlight going out on me on my old V-Strom. It would go out for a day, then stay on for a week. Eventually it was the other way around. It turned out to be a corroded contact in the harness so I think I have an idea of what to look for.
Checked all the connectors I could find yesterday, included the dreaded orange ground in the harness, and still can't find anything burned or corroded. I haven't had any issues since that day either, which is unnerving as things like this have a tendency to bite at the worst possible time. Installed the VFRNess yesterday as well, so hoping that will prevent any further issues from creeping up.
Definitely didn't seem loose, although in the process of checking I did end up reseating many of the connectors on the bike. g
Also, just now I was going to give a friend a lift to his bike and he asked if he could "drive". He stalled and restarted like 3 times and after he got off and I rode away I noticed the burning smell coming from underneath the tank on the right side. The other thing in common with the last time I smelled this was that it had just rained.
Had anyone had anything similar going on? Is it just water boiling off? It does smell kinda rubbery. Could something be burning up from repeated starts?
Was hoping not to have to update this thread, but, well, here we are. Had to bump start the bike 3 times today.
I hadn't had any issues until today since this started, although once or twice in heavy traffic the bike did stall out. I tried taking measurements with a miltimeter, but they seemed more or less good, except that at 5k RPM is dropped quite a bit. It was within the spec of the flowchart someone linked to earlier, so I left it alone. Today, after a 15 minute ride, I wen to get back on the bike and the battery didn't have enough juice to turn over the starter. Happened a couple more times. Learned one thing though... this bike is pretty damn easy to bump start, especially compared to the VStrom.
It has a new battery, so it's definitely not that. How would I go about ruling out the stator?
Sure sounds like the stator like you said. Someone more knowledgeable will chime in and let you know how. Only advice ùi have bnased on my knowledge is while you've taken the side panels off when you take your measurements, make sure your air filter box is not occupied by critters--very common. And maybe double-check the idle speed. Sorry, can't help more.
Good luck.
C
^^^^^^^^^^^
The quick drill…..
Sorry for your electrical troubles, assuming you have gone thru you connectors for burnt leads and checked all your grounds, here's the charging quick test loop --Go through this starting point list. You will need a multimeter too.
Steps:
- Recharge battery overnite - then to take it to Autozone or simular to load test. -- Good? Bad? btw an iffy battery can fake you out and look like a bad R/R.
- With good battery fire it up.
These are R/R quick checks--- do first..
--- With voltmeter at battery get voltages -- idle volts? 5000 rpm volts? Whats the nunbers? Should be in 13ish min idle and in 14s at revs.
- Check stator
- 1. pull connector apart. Set meter to resistance. Check pin to pin, 3 yellow wires, A to B, B to C, C to A. Whats the numbers? 3 separate readings --Should be less than 1.0 ohms.
- 2. Check continuity from each A,B,C pin to ground, -- -should be infinity - nada nothing. no continuity. -- 3 separate checks .
- 3. Crank it back up. Do another pin to pin thing, but set meter on AC volts. idle and 5000 rpms. What's da numbers? Should start 15 -20ish and climb 50ish and more. Again – 3 readings
4. Repeat hot.
Thanks for the tips. Will break out the multimeter again in the morning. Meanwhile, has anyone had any experience with a slight burning smell, particularly after it rained? It seems to be coming from the right side front fairing. I've also noticed what looked like a single thick spark while moving, in front of headlight usually flying towards the windshield. Thought I was seeing things (or fire flies) the first few times I saw it, but it's happened on quite a few occasions.
I picked up the bike with 10k on it a month and a half ago and it has about 13,500 now. It has a new Pipercross filter in it, so I doubt that it's a problem (will take a look-see just to make sure nothing's going on in there). The old filter I pulled after buying it looked like a forest floor, and I've gained 4+mpg since the swap.
You saw a spark and you have a burnt smell? -- I would be dropping the plastic off and go digging before I ride it anymore. Could be a short, burnt connector or....
I didn't dig into the stator today, but did some minor testing. 12.6 off, 13.8 idle that drops progressively as the revs go up down to 13.2 at 5k. Also checked more connectors and still can't find anything. I did notice that when wet, the V-Strom has the same smell, so it may just be either water boiling off or stuff from the tree they're parked under.
I didn't dig into the stator today, but did some minor testing. 12.6 off, 13.8 idle that drops progressively as the revs go up down to 13.2 at 5k. Also checked more connectors and still can't find anything. I did notice that when wet, the V-Strom has the same smell, so it may just be either water boiling off or stuff from the tree they're parked under.
Those are the identical voltage symptoms my '99 showed as the R/R was going TU. Replaced the R/R with one from Tightwad, cleaned all the connections and all's good - about 14.5v from idle to 5000 rpm.
^^ ^^^ - I think it was Tightwad that mentioned that he has seen several 5th gen R/R do the higher volts at idle and drop lower at revs. - Its been some months, but from my foggy memory, I think my OEM also did that.
[image: View Post]mello dude, on 17 May 2012 - 12:35 AM, said:
^^ ^^^ - I think it was Tightwad that mentioned that he has seen several 5th gen R/R do the higher volts at idle and drop lower at revs. - Its been some months, but from my foggy memory, I think my OEM also did that.
Happened to me. I thought it was the stator putting out fewer volts due to shorts, but decided to replace/upgrade the R/R first and all has been well ever since.
I think mine is more heat related than RPM. The reason I say this is it took longer to act up on cold days than warm days. Longer to act up in freeway riding than getting hot around town.
[image: View Post]realistdreamer, on 17 May 2012 - 01:58 AM, said:
[image: View Post]mello dude, on 17 May 2012 - 12:35 AM, said:
^^ ^^^ - I think it was Tightwad that mentioned that he has seen several 5th gen R/R do the higher volts at idle and drop lower at revs. - Its been some months, but from my foggy memory, I think my OEM also did that.
Happened to me. I thought it was the stator putting out fewer volts due to shorts, but decided to replace/upgrade the R/R first and all has been well ever since.
I think mine is more heat related than RPM. The reason I say this is it took longer to act up on cold days than warm days. Longer to act up in freeway riding than getting hot around town.
Coincidentally, my issues, both times, started as soon as it warmed up outside.
End of thread · 22 posts recoveredWayback Machine snapshot 24 May 2012