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Engine Swap Tips?

10 posts Started 15 Mar 2013 Last recovered post 15 Mar 2013 Wayback Machine snapshot 12 Apr 2013

#1

Just wanted to see if anyone had tips on swapping a motor in a 5 or 6g? I'm thinking of rigging up ceiling straps to support the rear frame and dropping the motor & swingarm. Any good alternative short of a complete teardown?


#2
Sorry, I can't offer any insight, but I'd be more than happy to offer you help with the heavy lifting.

Say, was that you I waved to at park and Stanford ranch tonight?
#3

Yep, looked you and the wife were off for an evening ride.


#4

Just wanted to see if anyone had tips on swapping a motor in a 5 or 6g? I'm thinking of rigging up ceiling straps to support the rear frame and dropping the motor & swingarm. Any good alternative short of a complete teardown?

I know WERA910 pulled the engine out of a 5th gen. I'm sure he has a picture or two in his gallery if you want to look there.


#5

Don't drop it on your toes. It's a bit heavy.


#6

The 5th gen service manual shows the rear supported via a bar through the rear subframe to a couple of support frames. Get it up, get it stable then remove the swingarm, then the engine.I'd advise removing all the ancillery parts Tank, Airbox, Injectors, Radiators etc before supporting it for engine removal. The engine is about 75Kg so more than a one man job. If you have the ability to make an engine holding frame do so & use a wheeled jack to move it !


#7

75kg?? That's more than the transmission out of my car! Wow.


#8

I just swapped an engine into a 4th gen frame.  This job was a bit easier because the 4th gen swing arm mounts to frame.  The 5th gen swing arm mounts to the engine.  Here's how I did it:

-Loosen/remove as much as possible.  (Tank, entire exhaust, chain and cover, rad, oil cooler, air box, carbs or throttle bodies, all electric plugs, coils and wires, etc)

-I unbolted all the mounts and dropped the engine onto wood under the from most part of the oil pan using a screw jack and pivoting on the rear mounts.

-Made a castle nut driver out of a 7/8" socket.  You will need an impact driver.  I used a hammer impact driver from harbor freight, with a 3/8" adapter into the socket.  Probably easier to order the right castle nut driver.

-Removed last bolt, and used jack to drop engine another few inches.

-Used ratchet straps to hook up the frame and lift it up high enough to swing it out of the way.

-Moved old engine away with help.

-Moved new engine into exact same space with help.

-Dropped frame back onto engine and started rebolting.

Easy stuff.  I did it all outside, in the cold of winter, with gloves and earmuffs, and some ample swearing.  Used anti seize on everything for less swearing next time.

Goodluck!

Everyone likes pictures: [image: CAM00201.jpg]

The rest:  https://plus.google....=CKG0k_uG3J6Mcw


#9

I dont think it would be all that hard, if you are organized. I like to put sets of faseners in ziplock bags and label them. I think mostly the job is more tedious than difficult.

Here's a pic of mine when I stripped it down, and just few more parts and bolts and the engine would have been out sitting on the jack. Probly just pull the frame off the engine. -I think VeeferCanuck did something of the reverse when he installed a new frame -- Unbolted the frame from the engine.

[image: anaked.jpg]


#10

   best way is pay a tech 150 like I did,even picked the bike up and delivered it.

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End of thread · 10 posts recovered Wayback Machine snapshot 12 Apr 2013