Removing Top Bolt On Rear Shock On 1998 Model

Okay, I'm no genius but hopefully not a fool either.[image: biggrin.gif]

Having read the Haynes bible on how to remove I followed the instructions.[image: mad.gif]

Firstly, raising the tank only allows me to locate thee top bolt using a torch, but you can't reach it with a spanner or a socket! Even if I remove the tank (not in a rush to do that!) it will not improve access.[image: smiley_banghead.gif]

Secondly, If I remove the tail unit, this does not help either. So the only way I can see a way of gaining reasonable access, is to remove the Givi rack, take off the bodywork, disconnect the electrical components attached to the sub-frame, and then finally remove the sub-frame.[image: shooter.gif]

Seems a days work to undo one bolt!!! Bloody ridiculous. [image: puke.gif]

Am I missing a trick to get round this?

I want the shock off so I can get to the pre-load and free it off , as at the moment I can't change the position. currently have plied it with lots of Plus-gas, but not expecting any improvement. [image: rant.gif]

I need to get this done quite quickly as I have planned a trip to either the Black Forest or Scotland at the end of this month with the wife.

Currently the set-up is okay for me on my own but with luggage and a pillion it gets a bit soggy.

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You don't have to take the upper shock mount off to remove the shock.

You can take off the horizontal bolt that goes through the shock eye. You might have to shorten a spanner and it helps if you ahve small hands. I've done it myself and it isn't easy, but it's doable. If the bolt is siezed, then you may have to remove the subframe for better access.

This diagram is for the VTEC model, but the upper shock mount arrangment is the same.

You would be removing #15 and #18 instead of #1 and #18:

[image: Block%2052%20VFR800ABS%202002-09.jpg]

It's not that hard; the 2001 model's pretty much the same. I've had the OEM shock off, fitted the Elka, then practiced removing the Elka and refitting it before I went on a road trip 18 months ago to have the Elka Ohlins-ised, then more recently (few weeks ago), removed and replaced it again for some pointless reason... can't recall why.

Just take the bottom bolt out, remove the top nut, and slide it out and down. Apart from taking the seat off, and lifting the rear of the tank, it's pretty straightforward.

I've done 2 rear shocks on VFRs. First one I didn't follow the shop manual and pulled the bolt in the clevis. Second one I lifted the tank... Much easier. Not sure what you don't understand.

Okay, I'm no genius but hopefully not a fool either.[image: biggrin.gif]

Having read the Haynes bible on how to remove I followed the instructions.[image: mad.gif]

Firstly, raising the tank only allows me to locate thee top bolt using a torch, but you can't reach it with a spanner or a socket! Even if I remove the tank (not in a rush to do that!) it will not improve access.[image: smiley_banghead.gif]

Secondly, If I remove the tail unit, this does not help either. So the only way I can see a way of gaining reasonable access, is to remove the Givi rack, take off the bodywork, disconnect the electrical components attached to the sub-frame, and then finally remove the sub-frame.[image: shooter.gif]

Seems a days work to undo one bolt!!! Bloody ridiculous. [image: puke.gif]

Am I missing a trick to get round this?

I want the shock off so I can get to the pre-load and free it off , as at the moment I can't change the position. currently have plied it with lots of Plus-gas, but not expecting any improvement. [image: rant.gif]

I need to get this done quite quickly as I have planned a trip to either the Black Forest or Scotland at the end of this month with the wife.

Currently the set-up is okay for me on my own but with luggage and a pillion it gets a bit soggy.

When you say raising the tank, are you removing the bolts at the front of the tank and raising it as to replace the air cleaner or are you removing the bolt through the hinge at the rear of the tank and raising the rear.  If you raise the rear you should have good access to the top bolt.  Oh, and remover the bolts at the front also so you can tilt the tank forward and get in under the rear of the tank

Pitch the Haynes manual. Get a Honda Factory Manual.

Pitch the Haynes manual. Get a Honda Factory Manual.

:1:   download it here.

 With an EMPTY tank remove the front, and rear tank mount bolts (2 in front 1 in rear). Disconnect pump/sender wiring, and vent hoses. Flip tank upside down on towel covered table next to R side of bike.