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Charging System Maintenance (R/r Relocation)

21 posts Started 9 Feb 2014 Last recovered post 17 Feb 2014 Wayback Machine snapshot 2 Jul 2015
#1 MadScientist Thread starter

As part of my winter refresh, I'm going to take care of some preventative maintenance on the electrical system.  I haven't had any electrical issues as yet (knock on wood), but figured at 30k miles I might want to replace some things before they leave me stranded.  I upgraded the wiring, connectors, and main fuse when I got the bike a few years ago.

1) I'm sure some of you have relocated the regulator to somewhere with better airflow.  Where did you end up putting it?  Pictures would be ideal.

2) The r/r is the OEM unit.  I was thinking of upgrading to a series unit, current budget points to the Shindengen SH775 or traditional shunt mosfet FH020AA.  The Cycle Electric CE 605 has better power capacity, but does this matter for someone who doesn't use have any accessories?  FWIW, I still use incandescent bulbs everywhere and I would like to add heated grips in the future.

3) Should I replace the rotor/stator?  I've heard that the lifespan of these items is about 50k miles but I commute through some areas that I would not want to be stranded in.  As far as I know, they are original w/ ~30k on them.

Thanks all.


#2 gll429

stick it where you want .

 the Shindengen SH775 SUCKS!!!!!


dont change the stuff thats still good. i sent a PM on how to beef up your wires to help prevent a failure.  :beer:


#4 JeffLaurence

I would solder the three yelow wires from the alternator to the RR.

Next, I have had good luck with the Compufire RR.

 YMMV.

 Jeff


#5 JeffLaurence

Also, check and solder connections on the starter relay and the 30 amp fuse- these overheat due to high resistance and  you WILL be walking!

 AMHIK

 Oh yeah, also check and clean the connections for the fuel pump.


#6 mello dude

These charging threads are turning into something like oil threads....

Anyhoo, for the moment, the best thing you can do is inspect your stator connector, and do the basic charging system checks for a data point on system health. Then go from there. ------- A '98? The '98s and '99s OEM R/Rs are near sure thing to eat it. 

For the moment, if I'm fixing a local bike here, I'm using the FH020a unit. 

http://www.vfrdiscus...est#entry928906


#7 MadScientist Thread starter

stick it where you want .

 the Shindengen SH775 SUCKS!!!!!


dont change the stuff thats still good. i sent a PM on how to beef up your wires to help prevent a failure.  :beer:

Thanks for the link (http://www.vfrdiscus...d-stud-removal/ for others watching).  All of that stuff is done.  Oddly, Miguel says in that thread that the PC fan won't last.  Mine has been on there and working for 3 years now, some cheap light up rig with the LEDs removed from an old PC case.  Probably one of the reasons that the oem unit has lasted as long as it has.

I would solder the three yelow wires from the alternator to the RR.

Next, I have had good luck with the Compufire RR.

 YMMV.

 Jeff

I know the benefits of soldering, but then I have to cut the old one off if it fails.  One of the benefits of using Delphi connectors is that you can get them from any GM dealership and most auto parts stores so I can easily swap another r/r on if it fails on the road somewhere.  I carry a pliers that can crimp connectors if needed, but I don't travel with my soldering iron.

The Compufire unit is really pricy.  How long have you been using it?

These charging threads are turning into something like oil threads....

Anyhoo, for the moment, the best thing you can do is inspect your stator connector, and do the basic charging system checks for a data point on system health. Then go from there. ------- A '98? The '98s and '99s OEM R/Rs are near sure thing to eat it. 

For the moment, if I'm fixing a local bike here, I'm using the FH020a unit. 

http://www.vfrdiscus...est#entry928906

Sorry mello, i know there are a ton.  I wasn't having any luck finding pictures where other people mounted their r/r.  Everything is fine the charging circuit right now, just trying to prevent future issues.  Are you running an FH020a on your bike?


#8 gll429

yeah.. i thought "the fan wont last " was funny too. mine has been on for 8 years. :wheel:


#9 Switchblade

Yeh  and my SH775  is  still  running  after  7 months ..


#10 gll429

Yeh  and my SH775  is  still  running  after  7 months ..

you got lucky.. or already modded your harness.


#11 Switchblade

Yeh  and my SH775  is  still  running  after  7 months ..

you got lucky.. or already modded your harness.

Modded  the  harness already  . Still  gonna  buy  a FH020  just  in  case  ..


#12 mello dude

These charging threads are turning into something like oil threads....

Anyhoo, for the moment, the best thing you can do is inspect your stator connector, and do the basic charging system checks for a data point on system health. Then go from there. ------- A '98? The '98s and '99s OEM R/Rs are near sure thing to eat it. 

For the moment, if I'm fixing a local bike here, I'm using the FH020a unit. 

http://www.vfrdiscus...est#entry928906

Sorry mello, i know there are a ton.  I wasn't having any luck finding pictures where other people mounted their r/r.  Everything is fine the charging circuit right now, just trying to prevent future issues.  Are you running an FH020a on your bike?

----------------------------------------------

--- Oh, no dig on you, just meant like oil, everbody has an opinion. 

- On my own bike, I am running the compufire. 

http://www.vfrdiscus...y/?fromsearch=1

It has performed as required thus far and I have noticed the bike runs cooler, and just seems to have a tic more spunk. 

But we have had a couple eat it, (coderider, CRs) and its hard to say whether its just an anomaly or a design flaw. (I like the running cooler part)

So, for the moment, I have been pointing to the FH20a Shindengen product. Its the evolution of  the companies mosfet OEM work. Its being used OEM bikes today. From that perspective, Shindengen is required to test the living shit out of it to be eligible before manufacturers will buy it. 

-  And the caveat and my bias,  I'll throw out there that I'm an automotive engineer and design, develop products for public consumption. Its a mountain of work to get a new widget qualified to be able to go on a car, truck, bike or vehicle. 


#13 MadScientist Thread starter

Thanks for the replies all.  After reading quite a bit about Compufire, it sounds like they will not honor any kind of warranty if used on anything but a harley (not even a Buell...).  I will probably go with Cycle Electric's CE 605, but will call them first to determine if they will cover any warranty issues on a VFR application.  However, I have yet to find a thread anywhere that mentions problems with a Cycle Electric r/r.  Looks like it will run about $40 more than the FH020, which will hopefully be offset by long stator life.  I can keep my stock unit as backup too.

On that note, sounds like no recommendations to replace the stock stator.

Still looking for any alternative r/r mounting spots, otherwise I think I will stay with the stock location and PC fan.


#15 CandyRedRC46
The best mount I have found is on the back of the left hand passenger peg. Mill it flat and it acts as a giant heat sink and is nearly invisible. This is where I have kept my fh020aa for the last year when I have the pegs on. When the pegs are off I just have it mounted to the peg bracket. This spot is the coolest part of the bike with the most airflow that is the shortest distance for the stator/rr/battery. The shorter you can make the path from the stator to the rr to the battery, the better.


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#16 vfrAustin
Mine will be in a pocket I now have between the subframe tray and the bottom of my new tail section.
It won't be visible with exception to the wires leading to it. My photo is being rotated??. Sorry[image: image.jpg]

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#17 MadScientist Thread starter


^^^ The thing is best that I can tell, there is only one on this board using it. (Coderider) Not trying to deter you, just putting it out there. 

Hmmm - Curiousity kills the cat. The CE- 605 is a Harley part too...... 

http://www.amazon.co...5/dp/B00DX89OIU

https://www.thumpert...5-p4883362.html

- With the series or mosfet R/R, you can ditch the PC fan, 

Yeah, I knew Cycle Electrics deals predominantly with HD.  Roadster Cycle bills this as compatible with many manufacturers, which it theoretically is, but I want to check with the manufacturer to make sure they will honor a warranty on other applications.  Alternatively, if Roadster Cycle will cover the warranty then I will probably order from them.

Not sure exactly where I will mount this, but it looks a little bigger than an FH012.

If there is no warranty, I'll just stick with the FH020.  I did just read that the 2014 Vstrom 1000 may have a switching regulator also, but can't find any details or part numbers yet.


#19 silverbullet132

I recently posted about my recent RR upgrade. It might be of interest to some. There is also a photo of how/where I placed it. Shindengen FH020AA Rectifier/Regulator Super Mosfet Kit

That is the kit I have on my 2000, put it on as soon as I got the bike. The R/R on my 98 caused me a TONNE of problems so I took care of it early.


#20 enzed_viffer

1) I'm sure some of you have relocated the regulator to somewhere with better airflow.  Where did you end up putting it?  Pictures would be ideal.

No picture required - it's the OEM R/R, in the OEM position. AFAIK, it's now at least 13 years old, and for the last 9 of those years, it's had a PC fan blowing on it constantly whenever the bike's running. The battery's doing well too; it's a Motobatt, and it's been in there for ages (so long that I can't remember; maybe 5 years? 7??)

OK - so now I've jinxed myself, and it's all going to go up in smoke, huh? Stay tuned for a tale of my bike catching on fire, causing me to crash, die, explode into flames, and die all over again! :goofy:

I HATE it when that happens! :mad:


#21 CandyRedRC46
Just a guess, but your bike, is it a second vehicle, that lives in a dry garage, doesn't get commuted on, never sees rain and doesn't see much rpm over 6000?


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End of thread · 21 posts recovered Wayback Machine snapshot 2 Jul 2015