First the filters...do you guys use OEM or aftermarket? I've used K&N's on my previous steed (2007 GSXR1000) and it worked great. However, I have heard some bad fitment/issues with our VFR's, though, so I'll likely stay away. I was thinking an Amsoil synthetic filter or stay OEM. Both are probably $$$.
As for oil...do you guys run the recommended 10w30 or use the typical 10w40?
10w30 isn't as popular, obviously, but I can still find some decent brands for full synthetic.
Honda filter is what I use. Is the cost of the filter really significant considering what you pay for gas, tires, insurance, brake pads, proper riding protective clothing, chain lube, chain cleaner, chains, air filters, price of the bike itself, value of your time on the bike, etc, etc. Are your really worried about paying $5 more for an oil filter no matter what kind you choose to use??
To clarify, this post has very little to do with cost. All of my vehicles, past and present, have always used synthetic oil and if possible, synthetic filters.
More money yes, but they are just flat-out better.
However, like most people, I don't want to throw money down the tube, so I figured I'd see what others are using for their 2014+ VFR's.
As stated, the K&N apparently doesn't agree with our bikes, so I'd like to see what options are available.
Has anyone used a HiFloFiltro on ours? I've heard nothing but good from them and them seem to be built better, hence the TUV and ISO ratings.
I use Hiflofiltro filters and Rotella T6 5w40 on my VFR and all of the bikes that came before it. Oil changes around 8000 km or whenever it feels like it needs it. Filters every second change.
K&Ns have a HUGE history of failure, one as recent as last week on another group I'm in. Hiflo makes K&Ns filters.. so no thanks there.
Bosch 3300 here.
Hey thtanner. Isn't the failure of the K & N caused by people using the nut shape at the top of the filter to tighten the filter fracturing the spot wields causing the filter failure? Even if K&N make HiFlo or visa versa, apart from myself l know a couple of other people who have used HiFlo for ages and never had an issue.
Who tightens an oil filter with a wrench? I can see some torque being applied to remove a used oil filter, but the filter would then most likely be replaced with a new one. No, these K&Ns with the "nuts" manage to fail all by themselves for some reason...
(Oh, and I didn't see anyone mention Fram filters. There's (an historical) reason for that, but it's probably faded from the memories of most by now. In short, a lot of Fram filters failed, disastrous consequences ensued, and many riders swore off Fram forever.)
I use Purolator PureONE oil filters. Or OEM Honda.
It's weird to hear so much bad about K&N...I've used them in my previous 4 high performance vehicles (NA, turbo and supercharged applications) and my past motorcycle. Never had an issue.
I'm just trying to find a good reliable source in buying filters. I'm not a fan of my local dealer so I really don't want to give them my money if I don't have to.
Also, I've always heard good stuff from Bosch and Purolator, but I honestly can't find an application chart for our bikes. I'm talking specifically for the 8th gens.
Katastrophe18 Also, I've always heard good stuff from Bosch and Purolator, but I honestly can't find an application chart for our bikes. I'm talking specifically for the 8th gens.
Hey thtanner. Isn't the the failure of the K & N caused by people using the nut shape at the top of the filter to tighten the filter fracturing the spot wields causing the filter failure? Even if K&N make HiFlo or visa versa, apart from myself l know a couple of other people who have used HiFlo for ages and never had an issue.
The nut is not failing because people are using it to tighten the filter. That's a bunch of b.s. K&N keeps spewing. It's a flawed design, even if you never touch the nut, it can still fail.
HiFlo makes K&Ns filters. I won't support a company that knowingly produces a bad product, even if they're the subcontractor.
The nut is not failing because people are using it to tighten the filter. That's a bunch of b.s. K&N keeps spewing. It's a flawed design, even if you never touch the nut, it can still fail.
HiFlo makes K&Ns filters. I won't support a company that knowingly produces a bad product, even if they're the subcontractor.
(Oh, and I didn't see anyone mention Fram filters. There's (an historical) reason for that, but it's probably faded from the memories of most by now. In short, a lot of Fram filters failed, disastrous consequences ensued, and many riders swore off Fram forever.)
10 hours ago, CandyRedRC46
Eighth and sixth gen use the same engine block...
I use oe Honda filters & Motul 5100.
As to what weight oil to choose, it really depends on the climate & usage. Here is a good primer on oil viscosity: 10W-WTF!? Dispelling Myths About Oil
John is right about Fram. Their filters failed because not enough thread engaged the engine. This happened after Fram had off-shored production but failed to ensure manufacturing kept to the design spec.
Candy forgot to include the RC45 and the 5th gen as they use the same basic engine design as the 6th & 8th gen VFRs.
I used a PC FLO billet aluminum reusable/washable oil filter. Never let me down. Never caused any issues. Bike ran a smidgen cooler. Paid for itself over long run.
The nut is not failing because people are using it to tighten the filter. That's a bunch of b.s. K&N keeps spewing. It's a flawed design, even if you never touch the nut, it can still fail.
HiFlo makes K&Ns filters. I won't support a company that knowingly produces a bad product, even if they're the subcontractor.
How come it just seems to be they fail mainly in the US. Apart from one failure in Ireland I cannot remember reading about failures elsewhere. I have also heard of folk using the nut to put it on.
How come it just seems to be they fail mainly in the US. Apart from one failure in Ireland I cannot remember reading about failures elsewhere. I have also heard of folk using the nut to put it on.
There was a UK failure last week, or the week before last, on a Facebook group. He said he never touched the nut.
Same here. Put on by hand. Fortunately failed in the driveway while warming up the bike. Oil pouring out past the seal. Huge mess. Filter still tight. Never again. Stocked up on Purolator PL14610 via Amazon.
K&N failed on me today at the track! Absolutely never did I ever tighten the damn thin with a wrench either (even though the illustration on the packaging shows just that). Was my first time taking the RC79 to the track, and the first time ever using Bridgestone T30 evos, and near the end of the session I was getting slip from the rear so just put it down to using sport-touring tires on the track. Nope, just oil. $%^$% a K&N filter!
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15410-MFJ-D01 FILTER, OIL
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Purchase this Honda 15410-MFJ-D01 FILTER, OIL --- FILTER, OIL (TOYO ROKI) (Honda Code 8597650)
This Honda 15410-MFJ-D01 FILTER, OIL is used on these models and components:
I'm trying to find a reliable source that to get OEM filters besides my dealer, but in Canada we get wrecked for pricing. I won't support my local dealer, so it's off to the internet!
On the plus side, Maxima ProPlus oil is cheap as hell...as far as full synthetic motorcycle oils go, anyway...$46/gal CAD.
Rotella T6 5 - 40 and purolator/bosch filters. I change just as soon as the engine gets a lil noisier than usual. usually 2500-3500 miles or so. Tranny is super smooth with it though.
I only caught a few of the walmart supertech brand filters before they took those off the shelves, those were top secret top notch pieces.
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