This is going to be my effort at getting as much weight as is feasible off of my V3 as I'm going to call it. Sounds better than G3 and more like the rocket the Germans didn't get to. I have plans for suspension too. Boy is this thing soft. Really nice to ride and soaks up the bumps, but when you touch the brakes this thing thinks it's a submarine and Dive, Dive, Dive is sounding off the intercom. Just springs will do a world of good. Here's the bike...and as you can see I have the heavy center stand on the bike and I will not do without that. I plan on looking at removing as much weight out of the cast iron support which is where most the weight is.
I'm not near up to speed on getting the text where I want it and pictures as well. Here's my birthday and Christmas haul on titanium and aluminum goodies...Can't wait.[image: IMG_0083.thumb.JPG.fb491863ef2fa53eec4305f687563564.JPG]
Since I won't be hauling anyone I removed everything off the rt. rear footpeg that wasn't needed to hold the muffler. Saved .42 pounds.[image: IMG_0082.thumb.JPG.dac7878089b0a8f10d4fea47a9c725e3.JPG]
The first thing I did was remove the stock turn signals and moved them to where Honda should have put them. 1.63 lbs. saved.
I bought some 5/8 by 058 aluminum tubing and had my machinist friend make up a new lighter grab rail bar and replaced all the steel bolts with aluminum. Saved .33 pounds.[image: IMG_0089.thumb.JPG.50babbb5a3bf50e5640392a36b558c65.JPG]
Even then, you want the higher-strength Ti 6al/4v stuff.
In general, aluminium bolts have 1/3rd strength of steel and Ti has 1/2 strength of steel in same size.
You can adjust those ratios somewhat with different alloys.
A lot of Ti from Chinese may be inexpensive, but are low-strength CP-commercially pure or weaker 3al/2.5v alloy.
Yeah, as JZH says, be careful about structural fasteners.
Replacing anything solid cast-iron with hollow chromoly (4130) would net quite a lot of weight-savings for same strength.
Aluminum bolts on anything other than cosmetic stuff? Asking for trouble. Titanium is what you want...
Ciao,
JZH
I have been using aluminum bolts since the mid 90's with nothing untoward happening. You have to have a good idea where they can be used and where something else would be required. My ZRX has close to 57,000 miles on it with aluminum bolts anywhere I saw fit. I started out with Poggipolini stuff until the distributor bit the dust. Hated to see that as I thought their stuff was about the best there was.
Most of my engine bolts in my other bikes are 4130 chromoly tubing in sae sizes to take up the manufacturing tolerances. Stuff from Coast Fabrication also and then their flanged nuts to turn the tubing into bolts. It was amazing what that did to my Vision racebike for vibration and handling and the weight reduction was nice too.
The front reflectors are gone now which amounted to .18 of a pound and a much cleaner look. I have some Scotch or 3m reflective tape like they use on trucks that I will cut a strip and apply to the fender. I just have to find it or get some more. All the fork and triple clamp bolts were replaced along with some smaller 6mm stuff which named .43 of a pound. My plan is to use the brake fluid tube in the picture instead of the stock reservoir behind the bodywork. It's a Honda part, but it doesn't fit the VFR master cyl. as they used a larger size so I will have to use a small piece of the stock hose with a reducer to the smaller hose.[image: IMG_0087.thumb.JPG.82db40e9da18ce1e4f460ec8c65d0093.JPG]
If that's the "HRC" kit, note that you can sometimes fit different plastic fittings to the master cylinder. Various NISSIN OEM masters had the reservoir hose pointing in different directions and some of those had different ODs for the hose nipples. I have swapped them around in the past. Look at the pics on eBay.
The hose is polyurethane, IIRC, aka Tygon. Everything else will sweat or discolor in contact with brake fluid.
The front reflectors are gone now which amounted to .18 of a pound and a much cleaner look. I have some Scotch or 3m reflective tape like they use on trucks that I will cut a strip and apply to the fender. I just have to find it or get some more. All the fork and triple clamp bolts were replaced along with some smaller 6mm stuff which named .43 of a pound. My plan is to use the brake fluid tube in the picture instead of the stock reservoir behind the bodywork. It's a Honda part, but it doesn't fit the VFR master cyl. as they used a larger size so I will have to use a small piece of the stock hose with a reducer to the smaller hose.[image: IMG_0087.thumb.JPG.82db40e9da18ce1e4f460ec8c65d0093.JPG]
Just get some appropriately sized Tygon, available from McMaster Carr. I wouldn't use a reducer or shim, I would use a hose that is the appropriate size. JMO
It is the HRC kit and I have noticed the screw to remove the plastic end cap with the nipple. I was going to use a section of the stock hose with a reducer in that. The cleanest solution would be to get an end cap with the right size nipple on it. Have to see if I can match something up.
Just as a note, The HRC tube has to be bought from a Honda car dealer and the cap can be had from a Honda M/C dealer. The parts guy at the car dealer was a bike guy and was all excited as it was a first time for an HRC part to go through them. It makes not sense why they do it that way.
In a word, no. Computers are not my forte. If you read above I can't figure out how to get all the pictures and text where I want it and have to keep hitting reply and posting more. This is the first forum I have ever posted pictures to so there is some progress.
It is the HRC kit and I have noticed the screw to remove the plastic end cap with the nipple. I was going to use a section of the stock hose with a reducer in that. The cleanest solution would be to get an end cap with the right size nipple on it. Have to see if I can match something up.
Just as a note, The HRC tube has to be bought from a Honda car dealer and the cap can be had from a Honda M/C dealer. The parts guy at the car dealer was a bike guy and was all excited as it was a first time for an HRC part to go through them. It makes not sense why they do it that way.
I have bought these parts at various places online, never had to use a auto parts dealer.
I wasn't buying the parts from tyga. I had the part numbers that I picked up off videos, but when I went to the Honda dealer which would be logical, they told me they couldn't get the hose and they told me I had to get it from a Honda car dealership. It took a bit of detective work in order to figure that out. The parts guy actually had to call Honda to find out why an HRC part could not be purchased through them.
Edited January 15 by jefferson Thought of something to clarify
Honda has weird distribution channels, but I've found that if you have the part number you can usually order it from someone. But that someone is usually overseas, so it's just weird that a US Honda car dealer can order it and a US Honda motorcycle dealer cannot!
Interesting topic, thanks for sharing. You're doing a great job for not a computer guy.
I take it the goal is to reduce weight but still keep the bike looking as close to stock as possible?
Look into having a lexan copy of the headlight glass made up... you'd be astonished at just how heavy that headlight assembly is.
The rear subframe is also seriously lardy, I replaced the entire rear bodywork/seat unit on a 4th Gen with one from a 2002 Yamaha R6. The entire Yamaha tail (subframe, seat, undertray etc.) weighs less than just the bare VFR subframe. An aluminium copy would take a lot of work, though.
You could also replace some of the metal pipes in the cooling system with plastic. I've got an electric waterpump for that 4th Gen but it requires a digital controller to get the best efficiency, so there wasn't much of a weight saving there - but the engine now no longer will have to drive the stock pump, so reduced parasitic power loss there, the hole in the block where the stock pump drive went is blocked by a welch plug I happened to have lying around from a Ford Windsor V8 kit.
Interesting topic, thanks for sharing. You're doing a great job for not a computer guy.
I take it the goal is to reduce weight but still keep the bike looking as close to stock as possible?
Look into having a lexan copy of the headlight glass made up... you'd be astonished at just how heavy that headlight assembly is.
The rear subframe is also seriously lardy, I replaced the entire rear bodywork/seat unit on a 4th Gen with one from a 2002 Yamaha R6. The entire Yamaha tail (subframe, seat, undertray etc.) weighs less than just the bare VFR subframe. An aluminium copy would take a lot of work, though.
You could also replace some of the metal pipes in the cooling system with plastic. I've got an electric waterpump for that 4th Gen but it requires a digital controller to get the best efficiency, so there wasn't much of a weight saving there - but the engine now no longer will have to drive the stock pump, so reduced parasitic power loss there, the hole in the block where the stock pump drive went is blocked by a welch plug I happened to have lying around from a Ford Windsor V8 kit.
I have been looking at the subframe to see where I could use hole saws and drills to take material out and I have located a number of places, but the savings won't be great. I did that to the seat pan and had a .02 savings, of course that was plastic. I would love to have an aluminum copy made of the stock subframe and for that matter the front subframe for the fairing, but I don't know anyone with the skills at the moment. I take that back, a place just came to mind that does custom car work and could do it if they would.
I was thinking about the water pipes today when I was peering into the middle of the v. The ZRX bunch came across some titanium coolant pipes for it that were super neat, but real expensive.
I have always wondered about how much power loss is saved as you then have to run the pump with more drag on the charging system. Never seen any facts and figures although I have done it to my van. It does make the water pumps last longer with out that big heavy fan hanging off the front/
I have to say it is pretty frustrating to go into 2 multiline dealerships and when you tell the parts guy 93 VFR750 they ask who makes that! Really.
I got the Barnett hard anodized aluminum clutch plates in with a .86 lb. savings. Removed the sound deadening from the cover along with some other weight removal and saved .29 of a pound. The new aluminum drain plug with magnet saved .04. I did weigh the footpeg weight from the other thread along with the peg feelers I had removed earlier which netted .37 of a pound. That footpeg weight is heavy.[image: IMG_0093.thumb.JPG.2465405a8dbee221688ce6146e706cf4.JPG]
Don't remove the exhaust shield behind your right foot peg, as you will ROAST your leg at stoplights, and low speed riding in the summer. It looks better without, but unless you heat wrap the exhaust, it will be pretty hot![image: 20150905_181319.thumb.jpg.d23c280323fdfab4fa74914fd5e1ee9d.jpg]
I have already noticed the heat and it wasn't even hot out. I'm considering having the exhaust jet hot coated or some such. Still might need some more work to stay comfortable. I think a carbon fiber heat shield would look good.
Got my ti swingarm pinch bolt in and the only thing I can say I dislike is the morphodite 18mm head size. It is .13 of a lb. lighter. I had my machinist drill it and I may have him turn that 18mm into a 17 mm head. I have done some research into subframes and I found a guy who 3d prints carbon fiber subframes, but the cost is prohibitive. He gave me a guys name for aluminum subframes that looks promising. Haven't been able to contact him yet due to work.[image: IMG_0090.thumb.JPG.b413e89f0f6932a8dd0f92a32033f0c9.JPG][image: IMG_0091.thumb.JPG.cd43d7d8eaf896882fa0fac6e744b064.JPG]
Thanks for that. I haven't posted the pair valve removal weight yet as there are still some pieces attached to the bike I need to get off and I think it may be kind of a pain to get the rear tubes off. Still have the tubes from the airbox down to the valves to get off also. Going to be removing weight on the sprocket cover too as I have it off and cleaned up. Making a list of bolt sizes and lengths to get replacements and a ti axle and nut for the front and I'm still waiting to hear something on the Renthal rear sprocket. It's just time and money.
Looks like all the 800's and the CB1000R used a 16X51mm bolt, and all the 750's used the "heavy pig" 16X60 bolt, which is why they weigh more than an 800 😆
Yep, I like that one - I just don't want to start down that road on the Street Fighter. I already did up the DRZ with Ti and Aluminum all over, and it was eye opening as to the cost... I took a few pounds off the bike, but I spent around $500...
Yep, I like that one - I just don't want to start down that road on the Street Fighter. I already did up the DRZ with Ti and Aluminum all over, and it was eye opening as to the cost... I took a few pounds off the bike, but I spent around $500...
Yeah, replacing nuts & bolts costs A LOT per-gram shaved. Best to actually start from biggest bolts first, such as any solid axles, brake-caliper bolts, sub-frame bolts, etc. On my race Ninja 250, replacing both front & rear wheel-axles with titanium saved 900gm! Honda's got some extremely trick heat-treated hollow chromoly brake-caliper bolts on their CBR600RR. Even hole at end is tapered and beveled! Couldn't believe it 1st time I disassembled brakes. It's as light as Ti bolts! :biggrin:
I've really been enjoying this thread. Titanium is such a hard metal and so difficult to work I'm semi-amazed that fasteners made from it are available commercially. It all looks great.
In previous decades, titanium was hoarded by military and any processing done was to mil-spec standards. Thus anything made from Ti would very costly (think $45k hammers and $15k toilet-seats). Additionally, the stronger 6al/4v alloy work-hardened very quickly and it would break machines used to roll steel. So specialised mills were needed to work with it.
After the lightening of cold-war tensions in '90s, titanium availability improved greatly and prices dropped significantly. In fact, Russia was so full of titanium, you can walk into any hardware-store and buy titanium shovels and other gardening tools!
I watched a documentary once about development of the SR-71 - Kelly Johnson knew that titanium was the only metal that would meet the requirements of the plane but it was difficult to obtain. So the CIA set up fake companies to purchase Ti from the Russians to build planes that later would be flying over their heads spying on them! Sometimes fact is more entertaining than fiction . . .
Sorry for the hijack - back to the regular programming. :rolleyes:
Name of the place is Ti64. Very reasonable price for how big it is.
Give a little credit where due. I found it, bought one and it is now installed. I just didn't post a link to it as I'm not sure how to do that exactly.
Got some good news out of the UK today as it looks like my sprocket is going to be shipped. No idea how long it will take to get here. Looking forward to attaching it with the titanium sprocket bolts. Got the front sprocket off and weighed and the difference between the Renthal and stk was .14 lbs. The Renthal is almost too pretty to put on be hidden. The lightening and opening up of the sprocket cover I don't believe will make it much more visible. The sprocket cover is .13 lbs. lighter and I may open up one more area.[image: IMG_0081.thumb.JPG.0c873dedadb4f671a8a3fbc41781f20a.JPG][image: IMG_0094.thumb.JPG.80d353e5fcec77daaee493d2771d8459.JPG]
Looks like all the 800's and the CB1000R used a 16X51mm bolt, and all the 750's used the "heavy pig" 16X60 bolt, which is why they weigh more than an 800 😆
Heavy pig is right. It weighed almost a quarter pound at .22 lbs.
Some other ideas, lithium battery, slip on exhaust, rear golfer rotor, center stand just looks heavy, I put mine on with a couple Allen keys though the holes when needed, rear subframe, rear shock. lug nuts I remember you can use certain Honda car lug nuts I got black to match the wheel, you can probably find white to match, and they were much lighter. can you replace the condom mirrors with 6th gen, from 5th gen its a bolt on replacement, do you have the rear cowl? TI sprocket nuts and bolts
Some other ideas, lithium battery, slip on exhaust, rear golfer rotor, center stand just looks heavy, I put mine on with a couple Allen keys though the holes when needed, rear subframe, rear shock. lug nuts I remember you can use certain Honda car lug nuts I got black to match the wheel, you can probably find white to match, and they were much lighter. can you replace the condom mirrors with 6th gen, from 5th gen its a bolt on replacement, do you have the rear cowl? TI sprocket nuts and bolts
All that has been given thought and will be done with time and money. I weighed the lug nuts yesterday and came up with .48 lbs and the muffler weighed 10.55 lbs. I have already located some titanium lug nuts, but their price is bit exorbitant in my opinion. They have the proper seat and are a closed end lug so I may just have to bite the bullet.
I am going to put off a light weight battery until I get a good r/r. I already have the ti sprocket bolts and am just waiting for my aluminum sprocket to get here from the UK.
Some other ideas, lithium battery, slip on exhaust, rear golfer rotor, center stand just looks heavy, I put mine on with a couple Allen keys though the holes when needed, rear subframe, rear shock. lug nuts I remember you can use certain Honda car lug nuts I got black to match the wheel, you can probably find white to match, and they were much lighter. can you replace the condom mirrors with 6th gen, from 5th gen its a bolt on replacement, do you have the rear cowl? TI sprocket nuts and bolts
I went with titanium studs and aluminium lug-nuts on my Porsche. Saved about 1.75-lbs per corner. That's unsprung weight too, so worth about 2x as much compared to sprung weight.
Yeah, lithium battery saved 9-lbs on my CBR600RR. Full-Ti exhaust saved about 6-lbs.
On earlier VFR models, you can get one-piece tail-section and remove subframe and seat completely. That's like +10-lbs or so.
I would love to find aluminum closed end lug nuts with the proper ball seat, but it seems they are unicorn horns. I did read where a guy had aluminum lug nuts machined for the ball seat, but then you still need closed end lug nuts and all that seems to be out there are open end.
I would love to find aluminum closed end lug nuts with the proper ball seat, but it seems they are unicorn horns. I did read where a guy had aluminum lug nuts machined for the ball seat, but then you still need closed end lug nuts and all that seems to be out there are open end.
I think those are steel. Nowhere does it say they are aluminum.
Shoot, sorry I didn't read it carefully. Weird how there's no alloy lug-nuts in 12mm... maybe something to do with flexing of stud+nut. Stud in 14mm are 85% stiffer.
I have looked long and hard for aluminum closed end ball seat Honda lug nuts with no luck. I don't know where that guy found some to machine. The only thing I can think of is they aren't made any more or they were open end. I don't know.
Yeah, I could only find alloy closed-end with conical-end, not ball-seat. Those only came on the bigger Acura 4-door sedans and Honda mini-vans. Probably not enough sales volume to justify production. These are major aftermarket vendors that represent majority of market:
At least you were able to find closed end ones that I could have machined to ball seat. I never came up with anything. I'm going to give them a call.
My Renthal rear sprocket made it here in a surprisingly short amount of time. The steel sprocket and hardware weighed 2.63 lbs. while the aluminum rear and ti bolts and aluminum nuts and washers weighed .94 of a lb. which saved 1.69 lbs. Thats unsprung and rotating weight so it makes a bigger difference.
If I ever get those pair lines out I can start putting things back together, except I did see a couple of areas to lose some weight on the rear brake stay arm and caliper mount and I know the braided stainless brake line will be lighter along with the aluminum banjo bolts. I just can't help myself.
Yeah, I could only find alloy closed-end with conical-end, not ball-seat. Those only came on the bigger Acura 4-door sedans and Honda mini-vans. Probably not enough sales volume to justify production. These are major aftermarket makers that represent majority of market:
I have a set of the gorilla nuts on order. Thanks for finding those. Have to get them off to the machinist when they come in for the conversion to ball seat. Got all 4 for less than 1 ti nut and they weight less. Win, win. Hopefully the machining won't be too bad.
I finally have the pair system exorcized and everything came out to 3.07 lbs.
I added up all the weight of the rotating parts that were replaced and came up with 2.93 lbs. None of those are large diameter which would make a bigger difference, but it has to help.
It's getting close to riding weather so I'm going to try and not take anything more apart and get things put back together. An EK ZVX3 is on the new sprockets and I got one of the screw master links for it. If you haven't seen these you ought to check them out although they aren't as easy to find as they were at one point. There are no special tools required. You use a 10mm wrench to screw the side plate on and you can't get it too tight. I have the same chain and master link on the ZRX and am pleased with the chain on both applications. The screw master does not come with the chain as it is optional and costs extra.
I got the aluminum lugs nuts in the other day and they are less than half the weight of the stock ones. They're off to the machinist to do the ball ends and will be even lighter when they come back. I'm looking forward to my first ride of the season and I think it will be sans muffler just to see how loud it is. The muffler I want to put on is not going to do much in the way of silencing and I want to see if it is bearable or not. I'm afraid it won't be, but I love the look. It's a copy of an SC project muffler so we will have to see. There are several videos of VFR's with SC project mufflers on them and they are the best sounding I've seen.
Honda left some things out of the service manual come to find out. I was trying to remove the middle fairing and referred to the service manual. Had all the hardware removed that I could see, but it would not come out from the upper fairing. Ended up removing the upper fairing and found 2 hidden fasteners that the manual didn't show nor mention that you would need to remove the upper fairing to get to them or remove the turn signals, but it would still of been a major pain to get them released. Now I'm ordering some bolts to replace those I can get to now so I don't have to do this again, fingers crossed. These fairings are such a pain. The reason I needed to remove the middle fairing was to do an epoxy repair where some pieces broke out. Should have just put some Elmers on it.
Got quite a bit accomplished the last couple of days. Filled the crankcase with Amsoil along with one of their filters. I also got some of that Thermo tec heat barrier that sticks on and applied it to the heat shields as well as the frame I could get to. The bolts on the front shield were really a bear to get the bolts in and out. If the exhaust wasn't there it would have been a breeze. My hands are going to be sore for a week.
Still waiting on the ti bolts from the UK, but I did get 16 aluminum bolts in and on the bike. Replaced some 10, 8, and 6mm bolts with a total savings of .28 of a lb. The lug nuts are back from the machinist and that saved .27 of a lb. and look so much better. Got the rear brake master cyl and hose replaced with the tygon which was .35 of a lb. lighter. I also put the aluminum steering stem nut on from the first batch of aluminum goodies and that saved .06 of a lb.
I had noticed that the throttle cables and the clutch hose were both out of a stay and was putting some unneeded bends in the throttle cables. Finally got the cables in the stay and that just made things worse when the bars were turned so I cut it out and saved .02 of a lb. Throttle cables are the better for it.
Once the ti bolts get here it will be time to get things put back together and ready to ride. I think the sprockets and chain are going to make a noticeable difference. Here are a few pictures.
Well none of the pictures would load due to a server error. Have to see what error 200 means if I can.
I think the muffler and lightweight battery will add up pretty good when I get those done. I forgot to mention I found a set of the longer velocity stacks and got those in, but that added some weight and I didn't do a before and after. All that's left right now is mounting the back tire and then repairing some places in the plastic and putting it on, Oh and installing the ti when it gets here.
The ti finally got here after being tied up in customs for 10 days in Chicago. 6 bolts netted .28 lb saved.
These repairs on the fairings are going to be more tedious than I thought. The pieces that I need to epoxy into place pretty much fall apart so now it's going to be a real jigsaw puzzle trying to fit it all back together. These fairings have to be the worst thing about this bike.
The ti finally got here after being tied up in customs for 10 days in Chicago. 6 bolts netted .28 lb saved.
These repairs on the fairings are going to be more tedious than I thought. The pieces that I need to epoxy into place pretty much fall apart so now it's going to be a real jigsaw puzzle trying to fit it all back together. These fairings have to be the worst thing about this bike.
Substantial repairs to my gen5 fairing - had the luxury of a hot staple gun on loan. Stainless staples melted across the breaks adds a lot of strength and you're able to keep the outer surfaces flush. Topped this with fibreglass backing as well. Look carefully at areas to be repaired, especially where they mesh with other panels - some tricky little tabs and slots that once broken can go unnoticed. 3M makes a 2 pack epoxy plastic repair - hard, semi-rigid and flexible plastic to suit various locations/flexibilities. Really good stuff but damn expensive. Also need a mixing nozzle - this stuff sets amazingly fast so one mixing nozzle per use. Check headlight mounts, back of all places where front and side fairings mesh - these holes often are cracked - pretty thin plastic there.
Of course in the interests of dedicated weight saving you could ditch them all for the extreme nude look.
The pieces I'm working with are way to small for any kind of staple. Just corners where fasteners go through. I've got some epoxy for plastic, but I don't think it's the 3m stuff. It's worked on other plastic repairs so I'm hopeful it works well here, if I can just figure out how to get all the pieces back where they are supposed to go.
The pieces I'm working with are way to small for any kind of staple. Just corners where fasteners go through. I've got some epoxy for plastic, but I don't think it's the 3m stuff. It's worked on other plastic repairs so I'm hopeful it works well here, if I can just figure out how to get all the pieces back where they are supposed to go.
1 mm thick ABS sheet makes a good skeleton to build on, I replaced a chunk of fairing with that as a working base .....ABS pipe cement for the win
if I can just figure out how to get all the pieces back where they are supposed to go.
Use duct tape on outside to hold all pieces together. Then patch up on inside. Tape holds cracks together and prevents any drips from running out of cracks onto undamaged surfaces. Also serves as mould to let you fill gaps in cracks from back side.
Well got all the plastic repaired as best I could and it's serviceable. Waiting on the weather now and time as I am working 11 hours days for a few weeks. Getting up at 4 am kind of sucks.
Got a 5th gen shifter from a guy that had a spare as the one he had on the bike he was parting out was going to be rubbing on the metal fairings by the measurements he gave me. He had the spare and the measurements changed to ones that would work. Smoothed all the parting lines off and was kind of surprised to see over a quarter pound of weight savings, .27 to be exact and it is much better looking. Even uses a small 8mm headed bolt compared to the 10mm on the stock shifter.
I plan on using some of the money from all the hours on the ti axle and nut. Really interested in how much weight that will save.
Some observations after a few short rides. No vibration was noticed from removing the weight behind the left footpeg. Engine rpm was only up to around 5,500 so it is good to there. A pull to redline may reveal some vibration at higher rpm so time and rpm will tell.
It does seem to rev a little quicker which would be down to the aluminum drive plates in the clutch. The new sprockets and chain smoothed things up noticeably. I really think the old chain was knackered as the brits would say, yet the sprockets didn't show any wear.
I checked to see if there was any voltage on the ground on the rt side of the frame. I measured .03 at idle and .04 at 5,000 rpm. I had already made a wire to go from the ground point on the frame straight to the ground on the battery. Hooked it up and reduced the voltage on the ground by .02 at both rpm's. There wasn't much there to start with, but it is now reduced to a better level so i am happy. It was easy to do.
Sure would like to post some pictures I need to talk to someone that does the IT work on the forum. Anyone know who I need to contact?
The ti Axle and nut came in the very same day the post office told me it was still being held by customs in Chicago. No tracking updates or anything. PO has a lot of problems if you ask me.
Took the nut in to get it hollowed out and total saved was .25 of a pound.
The new muffler showed up and could not see anyway for it to mount and actually stay in place. Had to have some stainless work and welding done to some ancillary pieces, but I think it will work out nicely. Total weight saved is 7.8 lbs which puts me at a total of 19.24 lbs lighter. The muffler savings may turn out to be more depending on a few things. Have to wait and see.
I needed to get the bike safety inspected for new plates, but without the muffler I knew not to try and then I found the rear brake master wouldn't build any pressure. Local shop actually had the oem Honda kit in stk. Think I kind of lucked out there.
I get an error code when I do that. Never had any problem when I posted pictures before. Apple tells me it is something with the server on the forum and I have posted pictures other places.
I've posted pics using copy / paste function. Mite give that a go. The site certificate seems good so that's probably not it. Could cookie settings affect that?
Sorry, but I thought I posted it was error code 200.
Going to try another way if I can figure it out. All I get is upload failed. I don't know anything else to try. I have drug files and tried to copy them as well as choose files.
Ok, this error you're getting is due to filesize or dimensions of image being over certain limit. I tried to upload 3.1mb image with 5000x3750 pixels and got this error:
I think I may have this figured out. Thanks a lot Danno for the links.
Here are some photo's from months ago. I have 2 more I want to get on here, but it may take some work to figure that out as some things don't seem to work the way they should.
I did lose .25 of a pound with a Spiegler braided rear brake line and aluminum banjo bolts. Installed the oem Honda rebuild kit in the master and it worked great for about 1 long ride. Now I'm right back to not building any pressure. Not sure what is going on.
Well I got these resized and loaded. This thing sounds glorious. A little loud even with the baffle installed. Sounds perfect with earplugs and isn't even too bad without for short rides. It's a lot lighter. I think I posted the weight savings in a previous post. I can get rid of the footpeg/muffler mount altogether for some more savings. I will need to keep the upper part that the side panels bolt to.
So far this year I have put 1608 miles on the bike and loving every one. My mileage varies between a high of 50.3 mpg and a low of 44.7. Avg comes out to 47.2 for all tanks of fuel. The furthest I went on a tank was 202.5 miles with 4.3 gals used. I'm pretty happy with the mileage I'm getting
Got a braided clutch line to go on, but they didn't have the aluminum banjo's in stk. at the time so I am waiting for those in order to put the line on. Should be close to the weight savings on the rear brake line. Also have a set of Racetech fork springs to install. Those should really help the nosedive under braking.
The last couple of days I have been working on several project in the garage and while I waited for things to cool down on one I messed with the clutch and brake levers on the bike. I flattened the top and bottom of the ball on the ends and drilled a hole in the middle of the ball. After sanding and polishing they look like the stock finish and have a tricker look. Saved a whopping 4 hundredths of a pound, but the look is worth it.
I did want to mention also that that stick on heat shield I used on the back side of the frame and metal shields really did cut down on the amount of felt heat on my right leg. Well worth doing.
A few days ago saw that Tyga has a stainless header with RH exit that's available for 3rd gen VFR. Likely lighter than stock and better performing. Looks prettier!
A few days ago saw that Tyga has a stainless header with RH exit that's available for 3rd gen VFR. Likely lighter than stock and better performing. Looks prettier!
I have heard nothing but positive things about their products, and my experience agrees. A member on another forum tricked out a RVF400. He only buys and installs top shelf items and he is a repeat Tyga customer.
A few days ago saw that Tyga has a stainless header with RH exit that's available for 3rd gen VFR. Likely lighter than stock and better performing. Looks prettier!
I don't own any Tyga but hear they produce quality stuff. Maybe others will have first hand experince.
I also really like the fact that they have replacement panels to take the place of the factory panels that don't fit with their exhaust, even one in carbon. The killer for me is no center stand.
There's no doubt it would be lighter and have to make more power than the collector stock system.
I also really like the fact that they have replacement panels to take the place of the factory panels that don't fit with their exhaust, even one in carbon. The killer for me is no center stand.
There's no doubt it would be lighter and have to make more power than the collector stock system.
Curious to why no center stand is a deal breaker. I removed the center stand from my 5th gen, dropped about 7lbs and don't miss it. But, I have an Abba Skylift and a vintage TBR rear wheel stand modified for my Ducati hub.
Tyga also sells a saucy racing step kit. You 3rd and 4th gen guys get all the cool toys.
I just really like being able to put it on the center stand in the garage and be able to work on the left side same as the right. It would also be real handy if a flat rear happened out on the road. I want it light, but practical.
Went for a ride today and as I was filling up beforehand another benefit to the center stand became apparent. You can fill the tank to the brim instead of how full you can fill it on the side stand. I'm not a fan of staddling the bike to hold it upright while filling the tank.
That fairing mount is quite the piece, and the price is probably about the same as a nice 3rd gen. Aluminum is lighter than Ti and easier to work with. Neither would remain straight after a crash, so I would just have one made from aluminum. The VFR fairing mount has a ton of twists and turns, so not gonna be cheap to replicate. The rear subframe however, is very simple in comparison, and could be made from aluminum as well.
While you're at the machine shop, have them make one of these for you too.... :goofy:
Thinking about the fork lower with the stripped bolt last night and I think I may use a cheap allen wrench and JB weld it into the hole. That should take care of the issue. I really don't want to inadvertently drill into the leg and then have a leak due to the damage.
I've drilled out a bunch. The bad head will release before you get anywhere near the fork lower, just use a bit that is slightly larger than the bolt shaft.. And you already have the perfect pilot hole and the extra safety cushion of a thick crush washer. I don't even sweat it anymore when they round out on old forks. The remaining piece in the cartridge unit comes out easily, usually with my fingers.
Talk about timing and you guys having the right answer, I finally found some time today to tackle the removal of the front forks on the 99 VFR, and I found that someone before me must have been into the forks as one allen bolt head shows signs of removal and of course I finished the job by totally stripping out the allen head. So it is time for the drill out trick but I have to ask a question.
What is the size of drill you guys like?, is the bolt shaft 6mm?, 7mm?, and what is the best cutting drill bit these days, I got a bunch of old crap drill bits here but I think this job deserves better.
Looks like it is time for a quality grade set of allen wrenches as well.
And while we are at it I am wondering that once I get into the forks is there a way to determine if the original fork springs have been upgraded to aftermarket?,
Do aftermarket springs have markings?, stampings?, different coil pattern??
Thinking about the fork lower with the stripped bolt last night and I think I may use a cheap allen wrench and JB weld it into the hole. That should take care of the issue. I really don't want to inadvertently drill into the leg and then have a leak due to the damage.
I've drilled out a bunch. The bad head will release before you get anywhere near the fork lower, just use a bit that is slightly larger than the bolt shaft.. And you already have the perfect pilot hole and the extra safety cushion of a thick crush washer. I don't even sweat it anymore when they round out on old forks. The remaining piece in the cartridge unit comes out easily, usually with my fingers.
Talk about timing and you guys having the right answer, I finally found some time today to tackle the removal of the front forks on the 99 VFR, and I found that someone before me must have been into the forks as one allen bolt head shows signs of removal and of course I finished the job by totally stripping out the allen head. So it is time for the drill out trick but I have to ask a question.
What is the size of drill you guys like?, is the bolt shaft 6mm?, 7mm?, and what is the best cutting drill bit these days, I got a bunch of old crap drill bits here but I think this job deserves better.
Looks like it is time for a quality grade set of allen wrenches as well.
And while we are at it I am wondering that once I get into the forks is there a way to determine if the original fork springs have been upgraded to aftermarket?,
Do aftermarket springs have markings?, stampings?, different coil pattern??
Thanks Guys
The bolt shaft is 8mm, so a bit bigger than that. Like 10mm or so. Get yourself a nice new premium drill bit, like cobalt as VFR750F3 suggested.
The stock springs will have coils that get closer towards one end (down if installed correctly), but I don't think they are technically "progressive". Aftermarket straight rate springs (like you want) will all be evenly spaced. If a previous owner went thru the process of installing straight rate springs, they likely sourced applicable (usable) examples, unless they were abnormally light or heavy.
Thanks Capt, spent most of the afternoon here trying to remove that fork allen bolt, no luck so off to get a 10mm cobalt bit Monday morning
I took the other fork apart and it looks to have the stock spring in it, I was not thinking of getting a new set of fork springs but maybe I will have a look , been out of the performance parts for 20 years so it will be interesting to see the options today
Like the allen socket, there will be a set of those for sure
Thinking about the fork lower with the stripped bolt last night and I think I may use a cheap allen wrench and JB weld it into the hole. That should take care of the issue.
I often had success whacking a torx bit into the stripped allen head.
Tried many. Any quality spring will be fine. They seem to be $100-$150/pair. Straight rate, the correct rate, and proper preload setting is 99%. You'll never overcome the wrong spring rate with preload settings, despite what the Internet tells you!
race-tech has a pretty good calculator, but it isn't perfect!
Tried many. Any quality spring will be fine. They seem to be $100-$150/pair. Straight rate, the correct rate, and proper preload setting is 99%. You'll never overcome the wrong spring rate with preload settings, despite what the Internet tells you!
race-tech has a pretty good calculator, but it isn't perfect!
Totally concur. I usually run Race Tech mostly because of availability and some times I can find a sale. Also use Sonic.
I find the RT calculator a touch high for me, and I like my suspension on the stiffer side. I usually go down on their spring and oil height recommendation for my weight (185) and riding style (street, expert, stiff). That would give me 1.00 spring on my VFR, but I go 0.90. And I usually run 10mm less oil height, but stick with the pre-load recommendation to start with.
All personal preference I know, but Im not the only one that thinks RT runs a little high.
I guess you should start your fork rebuild thread Hingley.
Can you explain? It sounds like you like it on the softer side.
Yeah. I'm saying that even though I like it on the stiffer side, I find their recommendation (for street, expert, stiff) even too high for the application. I put 1.00 springs in my ST1100 (700+lbs) and they are PLENTY stiff with the recommended pre-load. RT recommended 1.10 (that they don't even make). I wouldn't want 1.0 in my VFR. I also find their oil height to be a little high and it takes away a little initial suppleness (to me). Way easier to add a few mm of oil to bring it in to a preference feel.
Again, personal preference plays into this of course, and everyone has a different idea of "firm". But I don't think I'm way off on this, and anybody that rides my bikes never come away thinking they are under sprung, or "soft".
End of thread · 116 posts recoveredWayback Machine snapshot 26 Mar 2023