My search for a rebuildable VFKR is over, I found this '85 in need of a new home. 32K on the clock, runs as rough as it looks but the engine doesn't knock or tick. I am hoping the carbs are just varnished up, but I'll soon know. I am planning a complete teardown, upgrading the suspension and modernizing some of the important bits. I have followed the threads from Kel and VF1000RS, and can't wait to bug you all about what front end to use, mods to make, etc.
Thanks!
:biggrin:
Looks like a good place to start. You can go mild to wild and anything in between. The stock wheels limit good tire choice but some "purists" would scoff at a wheel change. An F2 wheel upgrade was one of the single best things I did.[image: Posted Image] CBR wheels on!
I may even go back to that set up one day. The USD fork swaps and different swingarms are fun if you have time/talent/money or no good sense. :biggrin: A good carb clean is always in order for a bike that has sat for any length of time followed by a carb sync. At least all the panels are there and not too rashed up. I did a ton of fiberglass/carbon fiber work on beat spare panels. If you can work comfortably with these materials, with some patience you can get them looking mint. Can't wait to see the progress. Thanks for the pics!
Thanks for the welcomes! I have been rebuilding/tinkering with bikes for 20+ years, the 91 ZX11 was the last project and I am selling it to fund this one. I will definately upgrade to some newer wheels-tires combo, not to sure about the USD forks. I have seen other front ends grafted on, any one know the other options for non-USD's?
Nice to see another R coming back for some updates. I also love to see the variety of bikes in other peoples garages for some reason. Love the ZX...but I`m one of those that have no good sense :laugh: ...
[image: View Post]unbalanced, on Oct 24 2009, 03:51 PM, said:
Thanks for the welcomes! I have been rebuilding/tinkering with bikes for 20+ years, the 91 ZX11 was the last project and I am selling it to fund this one. I will definately upgrade to some newer wheels-tires combo, not to sure about the USD forks. I have seen other front ends grafted on, any one know the other options for non-USD's?
You'll find that anything newer/better will be too short, especially inverted forks. You need to check your clearances carefully being particularly mindful of full suspension compression. The rule is that if it can hit, it will hit.... eventually. The only way I know of to make something like this work is with some custom triple clamps, which are pretty expensive.
Anything is possible, if you want to give it a shot just make sure to get the longest forks you can and check everything very carefully. Don't be surprised if you run into a lot of trouble trying to make it work.
[image: View Post]unbalanced, on Oct 24 2009, 03:51 PM, said:
Thanks for the welcomes! I have been rebuilding/tinkering with bikes for 20+ years, the 91 ZX11 was the last project and I am selling it to fund this one. I will definately upgrade to some newer wheels-tires combo, not to sure about the USD forks. I have seen other front ends grafted on, any one know the other options for non-USD's?
Let's be honest, it's still a street bike. A set of emulators in the stock forks with some good springs and a 17" front with good rubber and steel lines will be perfect for the R. Big improvement for short money. Throw a 4.5" F2 rear wheel on and you're good to go. Very little fuss to get that set up. As far as other USD forks, for me, if it isn't honda, it doesn't go on the bike so that really only leaves the 51 forks but IMO they need custom uppers to make them long enough. Tom seems to enjoy his so it's possible without. You lose some steering lock but that's a personal compromise that may or may not be tolerated. I'm sure you'll do a great job no matter what you do. Keep us posted.
[image: View Post]Kel, on Oct 25 2009, 09:01 AM, said:
[image: View Post]unbalanced, on Oct 24 2009, 03:51 PM, said:
Thanks for the welcomes! I have been rebuilding/tinkering with bikes for 20+ years, the 91 ZX11 was the last project and I am selling it to fund this one. I will definately upgrade to some newer wheels-tires combo, not to sure about the USD forks. I have seen other front ends grafted on, any one know the other options for non-USD's?
Let's be honest, it's still a street bike. A set of emulators in the stock forks with some good springs and a 17" front with good rubber and steel lines will be perfect for the R. Big improvement for short money. Throw a 4.5" F2 rear wheel on and you're good to go. Very little fuss to get that set up.
Absolutely, the upgrades that you list are an excellent approach to improving the handling of the bike. The Gold Valve Emulators transform the fork action and make them actually do something. The wheels, expecially the front, make the steering a lot lighter. That's something a 600lb bike can use as much of as it can get.
[image: View Post]Kel, on Oct 25 2009, 09:01 AM, said:
.... if it isn't honda, it doesn't go on the bike ......
I have been planning out the mods for many months now, reading through all your posts and projects - Awesome resources! I will probably keep the stock forks and go for the F2 wheel upgrade, just thought I would quiz the population. My wish list of top mods: 86 headlight assembly, 4-1 exhaust, euro spec fuel tank (seems un-likely from what I hear). The tank is rough and it's the one thing I really don't like about these, I like Tom's VFR tank, but don't want to get into making a seat/trim to finish it off right. I'll have to watch Kel's progress...
[image: View Post]unbalanced, on Oct 25 2009, 11:41 AM, said:
I have been planning out the mods for many months now, reading through all your posts and projects - Awesome resources! I will probably keep the stock forks and go for the F2 wheel upgrade, just thought I would quiz the population. My wish list of top mods: 86 headlight assembly, 4-1 exhaust, euro spec fuel tank (seems un-likely from what I hear). The tank is rough and it's the one thing I really don't like about these, I like Tom's VFR tank, but don't want to get into making a seat/trim to finish it off right. I'll have to watch Kel's progress...
Sounds like you've been thinking on this for some time. :fing02: The headlight does come up every so often on Fleabay. You have to cut the upper 2 mounting tabs off of the fairing. Buy or fab different headlight brackets or find an 86' upper frame. Then fab or find the lower trim piece below the light. A 4-1 that isn't crushed flat on the front pipe or completely rusted out is tougher and the euro tank even harder(impossible). I too like the Euro tank better and can't for the life of me figure out why the US market was deemed different enough to warrant such a change. Perhaps we just have bigger belly's than the rest of the world. I had a chance to get one from Australia but with shipping it pushing $500. I think the early VF700/750 tanks are close and surprisingly similar in capacity. They are a direct bolt on and have the knee cutouts I was looking for. With the CBR cap welded in, it looks closer to a factory race bike tank, even one from the 80's.
[image: View Post]AB-Oz, on Oct 25 2009, 01:05 AM, said:
nice, very nice.
An OzVFR member has one of these that he has restored, these are a beautiful bike.
Oi AB.....I resemble that remark..!! :biggrin: Mine's an '84 RE, but they're all good..took it for a good long ride last week, still brings a smile to my ugly head....a bike with real character.
Absolutely, the upgrades that you list are an excellent approach to improving the handling of the bike. The Gold Valve Emulators transform the fork action and make them actually do something. The wheels, expecially the front, make the steering a lot lighter. That's something a 600lb bike can use as much of as it can get.
Speaking of 600 lb bikes, getting this girl on a rear stand is a chore! I have a universal rear stand that can use spools, anyone found a good location to bolt a pair on the swingarm? Or - good tip to not tippin' them over?
Started tearing her down, found a rats nest in the airbox!
[image: View Post]unbalanced, on Oct 25 2009, 09:04 PM, said:
Quote
Absolutely, the upgrades that you list are an excellent approach to improving the handling of the bike. The Gold Valve Emulators transform the fork action and make them actually do something. The wheels, expecially the front, make the steering a lot lighter. That's something a 600lb bike can use as much of as it can get.
Speaking of 600 lb bikes, getting this girl on a rear stand is a chore! I have a universal rear stand that can use spools, anyone found a good location to bolt a pair on the swingarm? Or - good tip to not tippin' them over?
Honestly, it's about the same for me as any other bike. Once you get the hang of it you can pop it up on the swingarm stand (and off) pretty quickly without any help.
[image: View Post]unbalanced, on Oct 25 2009, 09:04 PM, said:
Quote
Absolutely, the upgrades that you list are an excellent approach to improving the handling of the bike. The Gold Valve Emulators transform the fork action and make them actually do something. The wheels, expecially the front, make the steering a lot lighter. That's something a 600lb bike can use as much of as it can get.
Speaking of 600 lb bikes, getting this girl on a rear stand is a chore! I have a universal rear stand that can use spools, anyone found a good location to bolt a pair on the swingarm? Or - good tip to not tippin' them over?
Started tearing her down, found a rats nest in the airbox!
I made a set of these, should prove easier than a pad type stand and stable. :cool: [image: Posted Image]
OK I have her stripped down to the the basics and want to check engine compression to start making my repair list, two questions; what is the proper compression rating (i am looking for a manual now) and can anyone recommend a good, cheap compression gauge? I need to add more tools to the shop...
Thanks! :biggrin:
[image: View Post]unbalanced, on 30 October 2009 - 06:34 PM, said:
OK I have her stripped down to the the basics and want to check engine compression to start making my repair list, two questions; what is the proper compression rating (i am looking for a manual now) and can anyone recommend a good, cheap compression gauge? I need to add more tools to the shop...
Thanks! :biggrin:
I think anything around 170-180psi should be good. Just as important that all cylinders are within range of one another, around 20% max, and one isn't way down compared to the others. If you're getting close to 200 psi or over you've probably got a lot of carbon buildup on the piston.
There's an owner's manual available for download on the site here. It has most of the repair procedures and specs of the (pretty limited) shop manual for the 1KR.
Any old automotive compression gauge will work fine. All it needs is the 14mm (I think) thread size, which almost all of them do. There's really nothing special about a motorcycle engine when it comes to compression.
Here is what I have:
#1 = 172 psi
#2 = 180
#3 = 180
#4 = 180
I now have a new found respect for those of you who have changed the plugs (12mm BTW) without losing a finger!
Thanks guys!
Jamie - I have been researching exhausts (love to find a 4-1) and keep seeing mention about you having a bender, are you making exhausts?
:fing02:
Into the teardown and have a few questions;
I didn't check the charging system before I started the teardown, and found the connectors between the stator and rectifier were not in good shape. This happened on an old Yamaha I had, is it a common problem on the Vf's? Assuming the stator is good, any issue with soldering a more robust connector?
(still having problems inserting images.. details in my gallery)
Also - Still waiting on my service manual, and the carbs do not want to leave their home even after loosening all the boot clamps. Either they need more convincing or I am missing something, any secrets?
I know you have a 1000r but I recently pulled the carbs off my 500, and let me say it was a task (getting em back on was worse though). I don't know how the plenum for the 1000r is shaped, but the 500 one allowed significant leverage on one side of the carbs, so I worked that side (the rear), out first. It was really simple to get the front out then.
good luck man, with all the resto'ed 1000r's on here they are quickly becoming my favorite honda v4!
[image: View Post]pmucka, on 09 November 2009 - 09:32 PM, said:
I know you have a 1000r but I recently pulled the carbs off my 500, and let me say it was a task (getting em back on was worse though). I don't know how the plenum for the 1000r is shaped, but the 500 one allowed significant leverage on one side of the carbs, so I worked that side (the rear), out first. It was really simple to get the front out then.
good luck man, with all the resto'ed 1000r's on here they are quickly becoming my favorite honda v4!
-P
V4 carbs kind of suck, but there are some tricks that make it easier:
Jamie, your How-to site is awesome! A great reference and it is appreciated (ay all i'm sure). I sent you an email about some work, now that I sold my ZX I can start the fun stuff...
I will have to wait on the electrical issues until the carbs are back on, hopefully by the weekend.
Thanks again for all the help!
Never ceases to amaze me what people do... I finally got the carbs out, #1 boot was f'ed up and the pilot screw on #1 was missing! They stuffed a small piece of plastic in the hole...
Does anyone know if you can still order the pilot screw, and P/N?
[image: View Post]unbalanced, on 14 November 2009 - 10:43 AM, said:
Never ceases to amaze me what people do... I finally got the carbs out, #1 boot was f'ed up and the pilot screw on #1 was missing! They stuffed a small piece of plastic in the hole...
Does anyone know if you can still order the pilot screw, and P/N?
I think you can still get them from K&L or Keyster. Try these links:
Carbs are almost back together - thanks for the tips. I have another question - I have a line on a full yoshimura exhaust system, not slip-ons. I can't seem to find much info, anyone have pics or info? I heard slip-on decrease power, how bout this system? I really prefer the small block V-8 sound, but parts for these guys are kinda tough to find, and $200 sounds reasonable...
Thanks!
[image: View Post]unbalanced, on 21 November 2009 - 09:52 PM, said:
Carbs are almost back together - thanks for the tips. I have another question - I have a line on a full yoshimura exhaust system, not slip-ons. I can't seem to find much info, anyone have pics or info? I heard slip-on decrease power, how bout this system? I really prefer the small block V-8 sound, but parts for these guys are kinda tough to find, and $200 sounds reasonable...
Thanks!
Yosh didn't make a full system for the R. If it's got twin pipes then it's plain ol' slip-ons. What you need to find is a 4-1 system if you want to make more power over stock. If you find one of those it's likely going to take a lot more than $200, even in rough used condition.
Well, finally got the carbs back together and fired it up - and sounds pretty good for guessing at the syncronization! I wanted to check the other systems before i tore it all down all the way and don't you know...
The connectors at the alternator/regulator had overheated, and after connecting directly i get 17 to 18 Volts back at the battery (no good). The alternator has been replaced once, any chance its the regulator?
[image: View Post]unbalanced, on 26 December 2009 - 08:24 PM, said:
Well, finally got the carbs back together and fired it up - and sounds pretty good for guessing at the syncronization! I wanted to check the other systems before i tore it all down all the way and don't you know...
The connectors at the alternator/regulator had overheated, and after connecting directly i get 17 to 18 Volts back at the battery (no good). The alternator has been replaced once, any chance its the regulator?
Yep, the Regulator is what controls "how Much" voltage. :fing02:
Another question on tanks. I have been looking at replacing the tank, i bought a 84 vf750 tank but not sure of the lines. I am looking at a CBR600 F3 tank - anyone try this mod? It looks like the petcock may have a clearance issue, but i think i can get around it. Before I buy one and see I thought i would ask the group.
Thanks!
:idea3:
Welcome and good luck with your project. I would love to attempt a rebuild but don't own the skil sets needed. Nice looking ZX-11 to the side. Daily driver? Ride safe, JD
I have yet another question - the front suspension is now dissasembled in in Jamies capable hands (Thanks!) and with the forks out the triples now feel like there is a detent in the straight ahead position. It was not felt when assembled, is this normal?
:unsure:
[image: View Post]unbalanced, on 07 January 2010 - 09:09 PM, said:
I have yet another question - the front suspension is now dissasembled in in Jamies capable hands (Thanks!) and with the forks out the triples now feel like there is a detent in the straight ahead position. It was not felt when assembled, is this normal?
:unsure:
You prob need head stem bearings, very common on a 25 year old bike.
Did you get a new mixture screw? I've got parts and know these carbs well if you don't.
make sure to replace the coolant tube o-rings while the carbs are off.
[image: View Post]PLCGuy, on 07 January 2010 - 10:16 PM, said:
[image: View Post]unbalanced, on 07 January 2010 - 09:09 PM, said:
I have yet another question - the front suspension is now dissasembled in in Jamies capable hands (Thanks!) and with the forks out the triples now feel like there is a detent in the straight ahead position. It was not felt when assembled, is this normal?
:unsure:
You prob need head stem bearings, very common on a 25 year old bike.
Did you get a new mixture screw? I've got parts and know these carbs well if you don't.
make sure to replace the coolant tube o-rings while the carbs are off.
Great suggestions right there!
Check out www.goallballs.com for replacement bearings, much cheaper than Honda. Replacing the o-rings is important on a bike this old, you really don't want to get it all back together and then find out that they dry rotted!
Alrighty then - deeper down the rabbit hole I go! I have the carbs completely rebuilt, and replaced all of the rubber bits so far. Next is the cooling system (and now the stem bearings...)
Thanks guys!
Here is the current state of the project, just in case. It should start looking better very soon, I have a planned trip to the Tail of the Dragon in May. Guess its time to get at it!
[image: View Post]PLCGuy, on 07 January 2010 - 10:16 PM, said:
[image: View Post]unbalanced, on 07 January 2010 - 09:09 PM, said:
I have yet another question - the front suspension is now dissasembled in in Jamies capable hands (Thanks!) and with the forks out the triples now feel like there is a detent in the straight ahead position. It was not felt when assembled, is this normal?
:unsure:
You prob need head stem bearings, very common on a 25 year old bike.
Did you get a new mixture screw? I've got parts and know these carbs well if you don't.
make sure to replace the coolant tube o-rings while the carbs are off.
Sorry for derailing the thread;
Where can I get coolant tube o-rings?
Are they a special kind of o-ring, or just a typical rubber o-ring?
[image: View Post]Turbocharged314159, on 14 January 2010 - 06:48 PM, said:
[image: View Post]PLCGuy, on 07 January 2010 - 10:16 PM, said:
[image: View Post]unbalanced, on 07 January 2010 - 09:09 PM, said:
I have yet another question - the front suspension is now dissasembled in in Jamies capable hands (Thanks!) and with the forks out the triples now feel like there is a detent in the straight ahead position. It was not felt when assembled, is this normal?
:unsure:
You prob need head stem bearings, very common on a 25 year old bike.
Did you get a new mixture screw? I've got parts and know these carbs well if you don't.
make sure to replace the coolant tube o-rings while the carbs are off.
Sorry for derailing the thread;
Where can I get coolant tube o-rings?
Are they a special kind of o-ring, or just a typical rubber o-ring?
On the 1000 they were still available from Honda as of last year. Try Bikebandit.com or RonAyers.com or your local dealer.
[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on 14 January 2010 - 09:08 PM, said:
[image: View Post]vfrcapn, on 14 January 2010 - 08:43 PM, said:
[image: View Post]Turbocharged314159, on 14 January 2010 - 06:48 PM, said:
Sorry for derailing the thread;
Where can I get coolant tube o-rings?
Are they a special kind of o-ring, or just a typical rubber o-ring?
On the 1000 they were still available from Honda as of last year. Try Bikebandit.com or RonAyers.com or your local dealer.
...Or take an old one to your local NAPA/other auto parts tore and get some for cheap. :fing02:
Well, I hav o-rings, in all sizes (I'm a paintball gun tech, I got o-rings lol).
I just need to know if the o-rings are just standard o-rings, or a special compound (it being an engine application, my thinking is that they may be some kind of high-temp o-rings).
Just wanted a few opinions and some updates - here's the latest. I am waiting for the suspension from Jamie, so in the mean time I have started laying out the new body work. Any opinions are welcome!
The tank is a CBR600F3, tail is 1st gen 900rr. I have the '86 headlight in, frame painted, and most of the electrical sorted out. This is still a mock up, so go easy...
Cheers -
:beer:
[image: View Post]unbalanced, on 30 January 2010 - 07:45 PM, said:
Last one!
You're makin some headway! Looks like you'll have your hands full with the F3 tank. The rear mounting point is very different form the R's. The CBR frame is quite a bit steeper so the rear of the tank is fairly open on the R frame, making it difficult to seamlessly tie the seat into the tank, one of the reasons I didn't use them for my project. Anything can be done though! I just thought they looked added on rather than fitted.(IMHO) Nice to see you used a bulkier tail. A modern "wasp" tail is too tiny for the front proportions. Love seeing the photo's. Keep them coming. Looks like a great shop to work in, and warm too!!! I'm jealous. Keep putting in the time and it will be done soon.
Thanks Kel -
Surprisingly the tank is working with the seat (for me), I had to fab some brackets for the mounts, but I think it will work out. I hope to get some real work done on the body soon, I will update when it looks better. I am just trying to keep up with your project!
:biggrin:
[image: View Post]Turbocharged314159, on 14 January 2010 - 09:40 PM, said:
Well, I hav o-rings, in all sizes (I'm a paintball gun tech, I got o-rings lol).
I just need to know if the o-rings are just standard o-rings, or a special compound (it being an engine application, my thinking is that they may be some kind of high-temp o-rings).
They are probably just Buna-N, but if you can get them, use Viton O-rings instead.
[image: View Post]unbalanced, on 30 January 2010 - 10:20 PM, said:
Thanks Kel -
Surprisingly the tank is working with the seat (for me), I had to fab some brackets for the mounts, but I think it will work out. I hope to get some real work done on the body soon, I will update when it looks better. I am just trying to keep up with your project!
:biggrin:
Are you using the RR seat? Don't wait for the pretty stage to take pics. We want ALL progress documented. I need something to follow since I'm getting nothing done! It's going to look cool and the fun part is, even people who claim to be bike experts will be wondering how they missed this one. :fing02:
Yes I am using the 900 seat, the front tab fits without mods in the KR's bracket, and the seat 'mounts' line up great. The front of the seat is wider than the tank, but some heat to deform it should line it up well... I plan on using a high temp, high durometer rubber sheet cut to fill in the space between the frame and bottom of the tank. I also like the reasr seat flipping up for access, my mock-up in carboard will be .090" aluminum and i can tuck some of the electronics in there. I am going to use the original taillight to make it look more like the KR. Kind like the 900's single vent to match the front fairing, guess we'll see!
I'll keep posting when I get some more sorted out -
:beer:
[image: View Post]unbalanced, on 31 January 2010 - 01:31 PM, said:
Yes I am using the 900 seat, the front tab fits without mods in the KR's bracket, and the seat 'mounts' line up great. The front of the seat is wider than the tank, but some heat to deform it should line it up well... I plan on using a high temp, high durometer rubber sheet cut to fill in the space between the frame and bottom of the tank. I also like the reasr seat flipping up for access, my mock-up in carboard will be .090" aluminum and i can tuck some of the electronics in there. I am going to use the original taillight to make it look more like the KR. Kind like the 900's single vent to match the front fairing, guess we'll see!
I'll keep posting when I get some more sorted out -
:beer:
Filling in under the tank is a good idea. Having a "trunk" is key too. Also really like the idea of using the R's tail light. Should look awesome back there. Any idea's on hiding the rad overflow bottle/battery. You can always paint the side that shows in a flat black?
I am pretty sure I can rotate the battery 90 degrees and hide it pretty well. I am going to try and work a hugger fender on the swingarm, but not sure yet. The overflow for the coolant is going to be hiding up front near the radiator. I am going to loose the crankcase 'reservior' and connect directly to the airbox with a deep loop in the hose to catch any oil. I do not know what to do with the breather line from the carbs - anyone have any ideas?
:unsure:
[image: View Post]unbalanced, on 31 January 2010 - 08:52 PM, said:
I am pretty sure I can rotate the battery 90 degrees and hide it pretty well. I am going to try and work a hugger fender on the swingarm, but not sure yet. The overflow for the coolant is going to be hiding up front near the radiator. I am going to loose the crankcase 'reservior' and connect directly to the airbox with a deep loop in the hose to catch any oil. I do not know what to do with the breather line from the carbs - anyone have any ideas?
:unsure:
Here's what I did on my 750F; it's an automotive crankcase breather.
[image: View Post]unbalanced, on 31 January 2010 - 08:52 PM, said:
I am going to loose the crankcase 'reservior' and connect directly to the airbox with a deep loop in the hose to catch any oil. I do not know what to do with the breather line from the carbs - anyone have any ideas?
Posted Image
Looks interesting so far. Delete the feedback to the airbox and do something like Seb`s crankcase vent, add a T to catch oil. Carb vent tube simply vents to atmosphere somewhere away from heat.
Snowbound here in the North East! So I am putting together the short list of what is left and I can cut corners ons some stuff put braided steel brake lines are on the must have. Anyone know of a good source?
:comp13:
Still searching for braided brake lines, looks like BikeBandit.com has universal 'kits' by Goodridge, anyone try these?
Another is the rearsets - I need to replace the front foot pegs at a minimum and see plenty of non-isolated styles on ebay. What are you guys using?
Thanks!
:beer:
[image: View Post]unbalanced, on 27 February 2010 - 07:00 PM, said:
Still searching for braided brake lines, looks like BikeBandit.com has universal 'kits' by Goodridge, anyone try these?
Another is the rearsets - I need to replace the front foot pegs at a minimum and see plenty of non-isolated styles on ebay. What are you guys using?
Thanks!
:beer:
If you know the length you need, you can order any color combo you want from Spiegler:
[image: View Post]unbalanced, on 27 February 2010 - 07:00 PM, said:
Another is the rearsets - I need to replace the front foot pegs at a minimum and see plenty of non-isolated styles on ebay. What are you guys using?
Thanks!
:beer:
These aren't rear sets but I did mount the BLS peg lowering blocks and the VFR 5th gen footpegs. For me this made the seat - peg position almost identical to my 5th gen.
Sebspeed - thanks for the tip, and FYI looks like they still offer kits for the VFKR! I'll find out monday.
vfrcapn - looks good, what is BLS?
As always, thanks for the help!
[image: View Post]unbalanced, on 27 February 2010 - 10:05 PM, said:
vfrcapn - looks good, what is BLS?
As always, thanks for the help!
BLS is a member here, http://www.vfrdiscus...busylittleshop/ , and makes the peg lowering blocks in my pic. Since the 5th gen pegs fit in the BLS blocks I think you could bolt in any solid peg that is compatible with the 5G VFR.
Spiegler makes 'em and can ship in 1 to 2 days. They offer the front brake line kits in two versions, stock replacement 3 hose or a direct 2 line. I beleive I read that the 2 line off of the master cylinder has an interference problem? Can anyone confirm this?
Thanks -
[image: View Post]unbalanced, on 01 March 2010 - 12:30 PM, said:
Spiegler makes 'em and can ship in 1 to 2 days. They offer the front brake line kits in two versions, stock replacement 3 hose or a direct 2 line. I beleive I read that the 2 line off of the master cylinder has an interference problem? Can anyone confirm this?
Thanks -
I can't speak to the interference, but you'll have a much easier time bleeding the 2 line setup with a double banjo bleeder at the master. Air bubbles tend to get trapped in the splitter on the 3 line setup, especially when the lines are new/dry.
A few updates - she rolls! Many thanks to Jamie for the suspension mods, I have it on its feet and it already feels better. I still have to shake out body alignments and the rear still seems low (I need to confirm the 1" suspension raise). I had some mid-pipes from my CBR1100XX and although larger OD I think the geometry works for the exhaust mock up, any thoughts? I have more photos in the gallery, but here are a few of the latest. I should be able to start the body work soon...
:biggrin:
[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on 14 March 2010 - 08:38 AM, said:
I would try to raise that tail up a bit if were you, looks a bit off sitting below the level of the tank.
I thought the same thing - thats why it is still a mock-up untill the suspension was in. Luckily its a straight forward change.
Thanks for the feedback :beer:
[image: View Post]VF1000RS, on 14 March 2010 - 10:39 AM, said:
The cans look good at that angle.
Need to pop the rear in the air a bit though... and not just the tail, whole rear chassis.
I agree - but the budget and time schedule (I intend to ride soon)will mean I now have something to work on next winter! I aligned the tail so it matches the tank lines, and I'll have to live with it for now. Perhaps a SSS will help...
[image: View Post]unbalanced, on 01 March 2010 - 12:30 PM, said:
Spiegler makes 'em and can ship in 1 to 2 days. They offer the front brake line kits in two versions, stock replacement 3 hose or a direct 2 line. I beleive I read that the 2 line off of the master cylinder has an interference problem? Can anyone confirm this?
Thanks -
Keep me posted. I want to do braided lines also and didn't hear about the clearance issues.
[image: View Post]grazi, on 18 March 2010 - 10:45 PM, said:
[image: View Post]unbalanced, on 01 March 2010 - 12:30 PM, said:
Spiegler makes 'em and can ship in 1 to 2 days. They offer the front brake line kits in two versions, stock replacement 3 hose or a direct 2 line. I beleive I read that the 2 line off of the master cylinder has an interference problem? Can anyone confirm this?
Thanks -
Keep me posted. I want to do braided lines also and didn't hear about the clearance issues.
I'll find out soon enough, I ordered the front and rear and they'll be here Monday. They are pretty helpful and offer many colors on the SS lines. I'll let you know -
Well, I am finally getting to the point where I can put some shake-down miles on her. I have some more pics in the gallery for anyone who is interested, but here are a few of the more recent. She runs pretty well considering the carbs have not been sync'd. It revs smooth up to redline, but idling there seems to be a slight 'giddyup'. I have not touched the body work as can be seen, and the tail light is the stock 900 for now since I need to be riding soon.
I should have the rear brake arm finished tonight and plan to ride this weekend. Still need to get a plate bracket and turnsignals figured out. I couldn't resist bolting up all the bodywork for a mockup and paint shop base. The tail looks better but not complete yet - let me know what you think...
:beer:
Went riding yesterday!! only clocked 50 miles but it felt surprisingly good! The suspension mods are by far the best improvement, it now feel lighter than it is (Thanks again Jamie!). I have a couple of questions though - the carbs are pretty good considering their not sync'd, but them seem slow to come down to idle. not bad, but i am used to a crisper response. I know all the slides and rubbers are good and sealed well, would the sync help this out? or stiffer springs? Second is braking power, which is also slightly soft. I will re-bleed but i think they are ok, just used to more stopping power. Any thoughts?
Here is a few more pics, and the plate holder I went with -
:fing02:
Well guys - I am sick to my stomach, but I have to try and sell her. I posted in the 'Bikes for Sale' on the site. Freakin economy is pissing me off, I am staring at another round of layoffs and I cant see using her to commute my 120 miles a day tour. I'll see what happens and I will not be going away, I bought a 3rd gen VFR to commute on...
But it still kills me... :angry:
Thanks for all the help, support and ideas -
Steve
[image: View Post]Kel, on 13 September 2010 - 09:59 PM, said:
Sorry to hear it!
i feel for you, it's not something to look forward to...
but remember, the bike is yours now, as in you MADE it yours, you might regret selling it and money you gonna get for it ain't gonna last that long to make you forget that bike...
it's not an easy decision anyway. i hope i never have to sell any of my customized bikes....
[image: View Post]wlodek1980, on 14 September 2010 - 12:58 PM, said:
[image: View Post]Kel, on 13 September 2010 - 09:59 PM, said:
Sorry to hear it!
i feel for you, it's not something to look forward to...
but remember, the bike is yours now, as in you MADE it yours, you might regret selling it and money you gonna get for it ain't gonna last that long to make you forget that bike...
it's not an easy decision anyway. i hope i never have to sell any of my customized bikes....
I gotta remember to put it in perspective - I still have the house, the family, many things others do not. I hope to find someone the can continue the caretaking of this piece of history.
:mellow:
[image: View Post]unbalanced, on 14 September 2010 - 09:11 PM, said:
[image: View Post]wlodek1980, on 14 September 2010 - 12:58 PM, said:
[image: View Post]Kel, on 13 September 2010 - 09:59 PM, said:
Sorry to hear it!
i feel for you, it's not something to look forward to...
but remember, the bike is yours now, as in you MADE it yours, you might regret selling it and money you gonna get for it ain't gonna last that long to make you forget that bike...
it's not an easy decision anyway. i hope i never have to sell any of my customized bikes....
I gotta remember to put it in perspective - I still have the house, the family, many things others do not. I hope to find someone the can continue the caretaking of this piece of history.
:mellow:
I love what you've done with it. I'd be more tempted if you lived closer to take it off your hands and finish it.
I would not sell a thing that i have put so mutch love into, but you have to do what you have to do.
I guess you did ruch a bit mdoing all the mods in a short time so the budjet got out of controll?
Would have been wiser to keep it stock for a while geherig parts then mod it.
Myself I sold my 87 VFR750f as I upgrade to newer VFR, a thing I reget werry mutch.
Well I guess I should not complain, I still have 3 bikes in the shed, one of them being my wifes and only one is a VFR
Well, no responses here or Craigslist so its on to Ebay. I'm still pissed that I have to do this... I did a little 'Detail for Resale' work and thought I would update on were it is now. I'll still be lurking around to see what going on, thanks again for all the posts.
Steve
[image: View Post]unbalanced, on 02 May 2010 - 06:44 AM, said:
.....the carbs are pretty good considering their not sync'd, but them seem slow to come down to idle. not bad, but i am used to a crisper response. I know all the slides and rubbers are good and sealed well, would the sync help this out? or stiffer springs?
Steve,
Sorry to hear you are selling...
Did you ever get the idle problem sorted out? What solved the isue (I am having the same issue on my project bike)
Thanks Dylan
End of thread · 111 posts recoveredWayback Machine snapshot 4 Jun 2011
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