Hid Projector Headlights

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Two questions:

1. Did you only have to 'bake" it once or did you need to put it back in the oven before you were able to disasemble the housing?

2. It looks like your projectors have the "halo" ring, did you opt for the "Angel Eyes"?

Cheers

Very interesting...... I've threatened myself for the last bunch of years to do the Modification that runs all four bulbs at once - but this is a mod that might be even more beneficial.

I believe that its illegal to run more than two head lamps at once (at least here in Canada it is) so if I'd done the 4 lamp system, and the law wanted to write me up - they could have.

Please continue to post up your results. Where are you mounting the ballasts - or are they internal?

:fing02:

Two questions:

1. Did you only have to 'bake" it once or did you need to put it back in the oven before you were able to disassemble the housing?

2. It looks like your projectors have the "halo" ring, did you opt for the "Angel Eyes"?

Cheers

1: Baked it once. If you work quickly and begin disassemble them immediately after they come out of the oven, you can do it all at once. You have about three minutes before they cool too much.

2: Yes, they have halo rings. Basic colors are included if you buy from the website I listed. I just choose white, because 1)It's classic. White halos look good with any color. 2) White halos, while not specifically legal, are highly unlikely to precipitate a light show of the red and blue variety in my rear view mirror. I have never been pulled over for anything on my bike, and I would like it to stay that way.

Very interesting......  I've threatened myself for the last bunch of years to do the Modification that runs all four bulbs at once - but this is a mod that might be even more beneficial.

I believe that its illegal to run more than two head lamps at once (at least here in Canada it is) so if I'd done the 4 lamp system, and the law wanted to write me up - they could have. 

Please continue to post up your results.  Where are you mounting the ballasts - or are they internal?

:fing02:

I'm sure it's been covered here somewhere, but running both filaments on the halogen low beam (H4) bulb will DRAMATICALLY shorten bulb life. 

Ballast will be mounted in the nose piece of the fairing between the headlights and/or in the space between the headlights and the turn signals, haven't decided yet. Internal ballast? I didn't know there was such a thing. 

:offtopic:  I won't be mounting them just yet, as I have ordered a white and black euro style fairing kit, which hasn't arrived yet. My bike is Candy Glory Red, but i'm planning on doing a white and black theme with white powder-coat wheels. The stock silver-ish finish on the wheels is just so...MEH.

Original post has been updated.

V4Supremacy :offtopic: I won't be mounting them just yet, as I have ordered a white and black euro style fairing kit, which hasn't arrived yet. My bike is Candy Glory Red, but i'm planning on doing a white and black theme with white powder-coat wheels. The stock silver-ish finish on the wheels is just so...MEH.

I can't wait to see how this will look. I think the VFR is one bike that looks really good in White and some of the non US offerings that have the B&W colors look very cool. Do keep us up to date with pics. I am really interested in how the halo lights look head on.

Looking good.

My own take on halos is that they're not really very noticeable when the lights are on--and they always are on a motorbike, no?

Ciao,

My own take on halos is that they're not really very noticeable when the lights are on--and they always are on a motorbike, no?

The halos are powered independently of the headlights and can be activated (or deactivated) at will, even when the motorcycle is off. Together, they consume 0.5 amps. So, assuming you have a stock battery in good condition, you should be able to leave the halos on for 5 hours and still have about 70% charge in the battery. Great for meets, and just a little eye candy when parked. I tend to agree with your assessment however,  when riding they are useless.

How does the projector stay? Is it screwed into the factory reflector housing?

As far as I know there are no internal ballasts unless it is some high end cage and the projectors would be even bigger to accomodate them. Not something you would want for the VFR.

You probably could have freed up some space by removing the lower reflector. Something you may want to consider as you don't want the projector touching the lens. Vibrations will cause scuffing of the projector and create hot spots in you beam pattern. That and the heat of the projector could potentially melt the lens over time also causing beam pattern distortions.

I know this means baking it again but you probably want to do this anyway because it will be easier to adjust the projectors with the lens off anway to make sure you have a nice horizontal spread when you test everything on the VFR.

Still, this is looking very nice and I give you massive kudos for doing HID the right way. :fing02:

Here's a how-to for HID projector a guy did on another bike: http://www.theretrofitsource.com/pdf/trs_tech/Sportbike_Stage_III_Retrofit_Kit.pdf

The OEM D1S system used internal (integrated, really) ignitors, and this was the type of system used in the infamous "PHID" driving lights that were once popular with the LD riding crowd. The advantage of doing it that way was that all of the wiring going to the projector unit could be regular 16-ga or so, rather than the high-voltage wire used by the D2S-type systems (which used to have separate igniter and ballast, but now incorporate both igniter and ballast into one unit). There are also D2S OEM systems that have igniters built into the bulb holders (rather than being part of the bulbs themselves), and these are very compact, too, and can use regular wires. Yes, I've been studying this topic for quite a while: I may never have finished a single xenon retrofit project during that time, but I've got boxes of xenon-related crap in two countries! :tongue:

Ciao,

KanadianKen

"I believe that its illegal to run more than two head lamps at once (at least here in Canada it is) so if I'd done the 4 lamp system, and the law wanted to write me up - they could have."

If so, how do they sell HArley's with the 3 headlight setup(THE most visible bike system btw...)

KanadianKen

houseofcharm

KanadianKen

"I believe that its illegal to run more than two head lamps at once (at least here in Canada it is) so if I'd done the 4 lamp system, and the law wanted to write me up - they could have."

If so, how do they sell HArley's with the 3 headlight setup(THE most visible bike system btw...)

The two side lamps on the harleys are called, fog lights so they can get away with it, but I have a car that does run with the lows and highs on at the same time when I turn on the highs, it just depends on the country and there laws

You probably could have freed up some space by removing the lower reflector.  Something you may want to consider as you don't want the projector touching the lens.  Vibrations will cause scuffing of the projector and create hot spots in you beam pattern.  That and the heat of the projector could potentially melt the lens over time also causing beam pattern distortions. 
 
I know this means baking it again but you probably want to do this anyway because it will be easier to adjust the projectors with the lens off anway to make sure you have a nice horizontal spread when you test everything on the VFR.

How does the projector stay? Is it screwed into the factory reflector housing?

Good to see someone doing a HID install the right way not just replacing a halogen bulb with a HID, and blinding everyone with glare while decreasing their useable field of vision.

And the purpose of baking your parts is? :unsure:

Does it release some adhesive or something?

Obviously I have not read the instructions. :sleep:

VFR4Lee

And the purpose of baking your parts is? :unsure:

Does it release some adhesive or something?

Obviously I have not read the instructions. :sleep:

Yep. Softening the glue that binds the shield to the housing.

Grazi. I guess it should be obvious that we don't need no stinking screws for electronics these days.

At least not the cases. Glue is the word. :goofy:

... project ... in progress ...

(the dirty spots & splashes are dead insects from the week end ride)

[image: post-17864-0-00929400-1366231048.jpg]

[image: post-17864-0-72898100-1366231066.jpg]

ciprinakos

... project ... in progress ...

(the dirty spots & splashes are dead insects from the week end ride)

I really like that.

That looks like a pissed off 4 eyed bird, lol!! You got a lot going on in those housings. Pretty cool

ciprinakos

... project ... in progress ...

(the dirty spots & splashes are dead insects from the week end ride)

PUT DOWN THE BLING AND BACK AWAY FROM THE VEHICLE. DO IT NOW... :biggrin:

Ciao,

The most difficult thing was to fit all the wires, ballast and igniters under the fairing. Unfortunately one 4300K was busted so I need to find a replacement. I'll need to make a beam adjustment and I should be good to go.

To open up the headlight is not difficult and it wend much faster than expected after seeing the tutorials on youtube. 2-3 min with the hot air gun and it was done. I had to trim the upper projector's shroud to fit on the lower part. I did not make any pictures since there are plenty instructions on the net and/or youtube.

The bling factor is made by blue angel eyes, red devil eyes and yellow led strip - my national colors. Beside the management of the multitude of wires, there was no trouble. Like the bulbs, these are powered up only if the engine is running (see below) and I have the possibility of switching them on in steps - first the angel eyes and the strip; - second step all together.

The lights are all bi-xenon (4300k on lower and 6000k on upper) with possibility of switching them on either 2 by 2 or all together which basically means 4 bulbs on low or high beam simultaneously. Although HID are more economical than normal ones, the starting current is much higher and that puts to the stress the entire electrical circuit. For this reason the stock wiring should not be used and the assembly should be powered up directly from the battery with a higher section wire than stock. It is advisable to use also the kit from or similar to the ones on wiremybike.com. I am using a VFRness bundle with some extra mods. An extra 10 slots fuse panel which is powered up through a relay only when the engine is running and the RR is producing energy - I hated the fact that before starting the engine the lower beam was on squeezing energy from sometimes drain battery. Also the left side projectors are connected through some delay relays and starting with an almost 8 sec later than the right ones - for the same reason of stressing the electric circuit.

Later I'll make some more pictures and a small phone made movie.

Cheers.

Did you use my HID wiring kit with the projectors to get the Latch and Delay functionality? I don't recall sending any to Romania but I have mailed them all over. I am not keen on the LED strip...the rest looks good and the camera makes the light look more purple than it probably is given the color temperatures you went with.

The answer is no, I did not get the HID harnes from you. I'm a seaman and last year, while going (regularly) to Hueneme, I got the agent to order the VFRness bundle for me.

I received from the ebay seller that sold me all the projectors, for free, also the controllers with the appropriate harness. It was a struggle to find place for everything. Unfortunately one of the controllers was defective - probably an internal short circuit between the power and the High beam signal. Because I did not have the patience to disassemble the controllers, I simply kick them out and in place I'm using two (one for each pair of bulbs) normal/basic auto relays to power up the bulbs. The high beam signal is going straight to each projector's coil.

The delay functionality I've made it using adjustable relays (normal auto relays with a knob adjuster 1-50 sec). They are set up for aprox 7 and 12 sec so that, if all 4 projectors are powered up simultaneously, 2 will fire up immediately and the other two long enough for the power/current consumption to settle down.

The latch is from my Cheetah VizAlert and is "...intelligent “engine running” sensor, the POWERSENSEnode, which you just attach directly to the battery terminals. This clever little gizmo automatically powers up your detector or jammer when you start up the engine, and shuts them down when you stop, so there’s no risk of a flat batteries" - quote from the maker's web site. It is connected to the VFRness and give-s the signal to power up the relay/fuse box. The fuse box is under the seat, but in parallel with it I have another 10 fuse box rooted to the right front side (now I have only 2 free slots).

I thought of ordering from you but the shipping and the custom fee did not made it worth. Next time I'll reach US I'll try to get a RR, even though the OEM is still working great.

The picture taken is not showing the real view - it was dark and the camera (an Iphone4) messed up the colors. Have more patience for more pictures, please. Time, right now, is something that I lack.

Cheers!

Ok guys, finished, although I had initially wanted to do quad projectors, I didn't want to deal with the hassle of finding a place to put 4 ballasts and associated wiring. The headlights are wired through a hidden, heavy duty, marine, waterproof, 20amp toggle switch. (overkill, I know) The halos are wired independent of the headlights and can be activated even whilst the the ignition is off.

The headlights are 55w (as opposed to the typical 35w), 5000k, Bi-Xenon. They work as both low and high beams using an internal solenoid activated shutter. This is in addition to the factory high beams. Both the projector and factory high beam systems are activated with the stock switch on the handlebars.

Here are some quick, dirty pics... better ones to come. Overall, I'm pleased with the results...

5000k Halos, HID off

[image: 2013-05-12 18.00.58.jpg]

[image: 2013-05-12 20.06.22.jpg]

Projectors, Halos On

[image: 2013-05-12 20.09.33.jpg]

[image: 2013-05-12 20.08.00.jpg]

Above the cutoff line, low beam (it is definitely has a SHARP cutoff line... even more pronounced than my car with stock HIDs)

[image: 2013-05-12 20.08.57.jpg]

Below the cutoff, low beam

[image: 2013-05-12 20.09.16.jpg]

High beams (whoooooa DADDY! INSANE AMOUNTS OF LIGHT! So bright it blinds oncoming traffic IN THE DAY TIME!)

[image: 2013-05-12 20.08.27.jpg]

and below the cutoff... This is a pretty good representation of what it looks like, about 300 feet away. It's like... ZOMG! A supernova is following me!

[image: 2013-05-12 20.08.42.jpg]

I'd be interested in seeing the light pattern from the pilot seat... on-road and against a wall.

That's a massive amount of light! Pretty cool. I was wondering how well the bi-xenon would look with the factory high beams & I like it. Can you run just the halo's while riding?

Very nice! +1 on the pilot's view of the cutoff.

I'd be interested in seeing the light pattern from the pilot seat... on-road and against a wall.

Very nice!  +1 on the pilot's view of the cutoff.

Yup, Going to get it out on some unlit country roads so I can take a good picture of the on road light distribution.

That's a massive amount of light! Pretty cool. I was wondering how well the bi-xenon would look with the factory high beams & I like it. Can you run just the halo's while riding?

Yes, the HID and halos operate completely independently. In fact, you can also ride with just the factory high beams and no HIDs at all. Just halos works perfect for dawn/dusk or overcast days. The power draw of the halos is so small that I just turn them on in the morning and leave them on all day until i'm done ridding. I did the math in a previous post, but basically you could leave these on for over 6 hours with no risk of a dead battery.

... project ... in progress ...

(the dirty spots & splashes are dead insects from the week end ride)

I really like this EXCEPT for that string of leds. It goes from "Nice custom headlight" to "Look at me! Look at me!" ...Which I guess is not a bad thing on a motorcycle. Seems very derivative to me. Otherwise NICE WORK! :fing02:

Where are you mounting you ballasts?

My project is still unfinished. I decided, when I'll start working, to ditch the LED strips. Just the projectors are good enough. I'm still waiting for one of the bulb's replacement (one was busted on first firing - bad things happens sometimes). I need to reopen the headlights because the projectors does not have the same cut off line on low beams and I'll use the opportunity to take off the LED - I'll find another use 4 it.

@V4Supremacy - nice work! Ballasts are under the side fairings, behind the ECU (on the right) and ABS controller (on the left).

That looks like one excited motorcycle!  Nice job!

They are a combination of Madhead & Acerbis ( http://www.louis.de/...tnr_gr=10019605 - http://www.louis.de/...tnr_gr=10019645 ) and they can't be used on stock bars because they are too short. I have a pretty large & high LSL superbike handlebars.

Check out the link (from the signature) to my gallery to have a better view.

Cheers!

Here's how it looks like - was using only the lower lights at that time - http://www.vfrdiscus...fest-constanta/

Ok guys, finished, although I had initially wanted to do quad projectors, I didn't want to deal with the hassle of finding a place to put 4 ballasts and associated wiring. The headlights are wired through a hidden, heavy duty, marine, waterproof, 20amp toggle switch. (overkill, I know) The halos are wired independent of the headlights and can be activated even whilst the the ignition is off.

The headlights are 55w (as opposed to the typical 35w), 5000k, Bi-Xenon. They work as both low and high beams using an internal solenoid activated shutter. This is in addition to the factory high beams. Both the projector and factory high beam systems are activated with the stock switch on the handlebars.

Here are some quick, dirty pics... better ones to come. Overall, I'm pleased with the results...

5000k Halos, HID off

[image: attachicon.gif]2013-05-12 18.00.58.jpg

This is exactly the look I want to do to my bike... however the wiring confuses me.

1. I want to run Halos ONLY as driving lights during the day.

2. I want full functionality of High/Low.

What I'm getting from your wiring is that you put a cut-off toggle in-line of your stock headlights (so now instead of running all the time, you can simply shut them off). Installed another switch for the halos... and once you turn the main toggle swith ON your high/low switch works like stock...

Am I right in this?

Great job by the way!!

I did the same thing but i got my set from ebay $40 per projector

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Ok guys, finished, although I had initially wanted to do quad projectors, I didn't want to deal with the hassle of finding a place to put 4 ballasts and associated wiring. The headlights are wired through a hidden, heavy duty, marine, waterproof, 20amp toggle switch. (overkill, I know) The halos are wired independent of the headlights and can be activated even whilst the the ignition is off.
 
The headlights are 55w (as opposed to the typical 35w), 5000k, Bi-Xenon. They work as both low and high beams using an internal solenoid activated shutter. This is in addition to the factory high beams. Both the projector and factory high beam systems are activated with the stock switch on the handlebars.
 
Here are some quick, dirty pics... better ones to come. Overall, I'm pleased with the results...
 
5000k Halos, HID off
[image: attachicon.gif]2013-05-12 18.00.58.jpg

 
This is exactly the look I want to do to my bike... however the wiring confuses me.
 
1. I want to run Halos ONLY as driving lights during the day.
2. I want full functionality of High/Low.
 
What I'm getting from your wiring is that you put a cut-off toggle in-line of your stock headlights (so now instead of running all the time, you can simply shut them off). Installed another switch for the halos... and once you turn the main toggle swith ON your high/low switch works like stock...
 
Am I right in this?
 
Great job by the way!!

In a word, yes.

Sorry for the late reply. A cager "didn't see me" and changed lanes into me on the highway. No, I wasn't speeding, in fact I was going at the speed limit in the slow lane. The driver was an elderly lady in a chevy SUV. Bike went flying, tumbling and rolling accross the highway. From mint condition to totaled in 5 seconds. I was so very fortunate, I was able to walk away, thanks to my gear. After this incident I decided to take a short break from motorcycling.

Interesting!!.

I bought V4Supremacy's bike.....He told me it'd never been dropped. I think I will look into a CarFAX report since I neglected to do so previously.

Oop's    ....

In a word, yes.

Sorry for the late reply. A cager "didn't see me" and changed lanes into me on the highway. No, I wasn't speeding, in fact I was going at the speed limit in the slow lane. The driver was an elderly lady in a chevy SUV. Bike went flying, tumbling and rolling accross the highway. From mint condition to totaled in 5 seconds. I was so very fortunate, I was able to walk away, thanks to my gear. After this incident I decided to take a short break from motorcycling.
 

 
 
Interesting!!.
I bought V4Supremacy's bike.....He told me it'd never been dropped. I think I will look into a CarFAX report since I neglected to do so previously.

Not  good  ..