[image: Posted Image] Rear shock install
My work has officially started this week, first a little background.
This will be my second motorcycle project, the first being my restoration of an '86 700. I really like the styling of the RC30 and think it still looks better than the newest bikes, so I wanted to make a VFR take on the round headlights and smooth lines. But after looking at pictures, the shape of the tank of the RC30 appeared significantly different than any VFR models (that I could find for sale), so I have settled on the RC45 which appeared close to the 4th gen VFR.
I found the bike with 13,300 on it for $2600, it had been dumped on the left side which bent the clutch lever and gear switch, and scratched the middle fairing, other than that it is in great condition.
[image: Posted Image] DSC01604.JPG
The goal of this project is not so much to make an RC45 replica, but to make a bike that has the looks that I think are the best of any bike on the road today, plus add any mechanical upgrades that will help performance.
The list of the major work I have planned:
929/954 rear shock
954 complete front end
RC45 bodywork
-CBR900 headlights
-CBR900 dashboard
Items I have not yet committed to (but think would be a great addition) are a single nut rear wheel and left side exhaust.
I have yet to order the bodywork so I still have no idea if I can make it work, but have started on the rear shock already and will do the front end next. Thanks to the threads here, the rear has been mostly a breeze, minus getting the battery heat shield out. I bought the 954 shock before I knew there was a difference from the 929, but I am going to see if it will work for me before I order another.
This will probably drag out into the summer, especially since it's not a heated garage. Good news is that it will give me lots of time to get feedback, even if you're trying to convince me not to change the body (which won't work) or paint it anything but red (which won't work either). I'll be posting lots of pictures as I go for your viewing pleasure
Curious if you are also planning to replace the crude, heavy, and low steel rear subframe too? Will a CBR 900 aluminium rearsubframe work if tweaked a bit here and there??
[image: View Post]mrmatt, on Jan 17 2009, 04:21 PM, said:
But after looking at pictures, the shape of the tank of the RC30 appeared significantly different than any VFR models (that I could find for sale), so I have settled on the RC45 which appeared close to the 4th gen VFR.
G'day mrmatt, great project! Will look forward to seeing how it progresses.
If you do still have designs on the RC30, you could get a VFR400 tank, which looks the closest to the RC30 tank. But the RC45 is just as desirable :laugh:
[image: View Post]mrmatt, on Jan 17 2009, 04:21 PM, said:
The list of the major work I have planned: 929/954 rear shock 954 complete front end RC45 bodywork -CBR900 headlights -CBR900 dashboard
You probably know a bit of or all of this, but anyway, for the record:
The 954 shock will not fit unless you mod your inner fender.
The 954 front end is a bolt-in but is substantially shorter than the OEM front end, clearance issues may ensue.
RC45 bodywork looks great, some of the Thurn stuff (Germany) is interesting as it combines 4th Gen and RC45 styling cues.
CBR900 dashboard is from memory a plug-in which just needs some tweaking, there may be some info in old topics here.
And the CBR900 headlights leads me to this - I reckon you can use the whole CBR900 (1st Gen) as a basis for what you are doing - just do some mods between the lights to add the bodywork that is scalloped out on the CBR, fill in the little holes each side of the headlights, and you're nearly there:
[image: View Post]mrmatt, on Jan 17 2009, 04:21 PM, said:
Items I have not yet committed to (but think would be a great addition) are a single nut rear wheel and left side exhaust.
Single nut rear wheel can be achieved by combining a VFR400 hub assembly (fits into the 4th Gen SSS) and either an original RC30/45 wheel ($$$) or a modified 3rd or 5th Gen wheel (or an aftermarket wheel, more $$$). For the exhaust you need a TBR left exit full header...
Since most of your oem bodywork is in good to great condition and you sell it off, you should be able to fund most of your project. :biggrin: I originally wanted to go the RC45 route on my RCBVFR project. At the time I found the front to be too many headaches and went another direction yet continued on with using a 45 tail. I also wanted underseat pipes so I used a vtec subframe too. Ultimately, I decided to go with the vtec tail and seat too so I do have the white rc45 tail section sans pipe, seat, and tail light cut outs if you're interested in it. It's from airtech.
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Good luck with your project. If you haven't seen it, there's a Euro rider who did a 4gen/RC45 conversion complete with OEM style paint several years ago. It looks fantastic. I think he used a 45 tank (they grow on trees ya' know) and upgraded both the front/rear suspensions to complete the look. :laugh:
Thanks for all the suggestions and advice, the more the better
A good night's work
[image: Posted Image] DSC01666.JPG
I set the rear shock in place to see how much modification I would need to do on the rear fender, but it looked more like an inch out of place. I deemed it not worth the trouble and ordered a 929 shock today ($42 shipped)
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On a side note, would the 954 shock be a good upgrade to an NT650? I know of one that might make it into my garage for some wrenching...
The forks side by side
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Had a little trouble measuring how long the forks should be, I ended up taking a measurement from the frame behind the lower triple to the axle. Hopefully it will be very close.
I actually did see the 4th gen/RC45 conversion, I've contacted him and it was he that told me about using CBR900 lights and gauges :lurk:
When I took the dashboard off I kept looking for a speedometer cable, still haven't found it yet. There are only two electrical connectors near the middle of the instruments, was it common in '95 to have an electronically controlled speedometer? Better question is whether the same year 900 had the same setup.
[image: Posted Image] DSC01667.JPG
I'm not determined to use 900 gauges, if anyone knows of a small aftermarket setup I could use I'd like to look at it.
Good question about the subframe, I hadn't thought about it, is there a better that would fit the single piece RC45 tail? I'm not a machinist, but can dremmel and bend brackets if needed.
[image: View Post]mrmatt, on Jan 18 2009, 08:31 AM, said:
Thanks for all the suggestions and advice, the more the better
When I took the dashboard off I kept looking for a speedometer cable, still haven't found it yet. There are only two electrical connectors near the middle of the instruments, was it common in '95 to have an electronically controlled speedometer? Better question is whether the same year 900 had the same setup. http://www.vfrdiscus...4385_443863.jpg DSC01667.JPG I'm not determined to use 900 gauges, if anyone knows of a small aftermarket setup I could use I'd like to look at it.
Good question about the subframe, I hadn't thought about it, is there a better that would fit the single piece RC45 tail? I'm not a machinist, but can dremmel and bend brackets if needed.
Enough for now
Yes, The 4th gen speedometer is electronically driven from a pickup at the countershaft sprocket area. It's the thingy with the "TDK" letters on it and wires going to the harnes towards the front of the bike. I was thinking of the CBR900's subframe because I always like the way it was exposed on the bike and how the luminum was finished. Not sure if it will line up close enough with an RC 45 tail fairing. Fotomoto should have an idea. You can maybe look at the mounting bolt holes of the RC45's tail in pics and see if they are close to where the CBR900, or other subframes you might find out there will work with the 45's tail fairing. Good luck! We will wait in great anticipation for your future posts on your project!
I've run into a problem, the bearings on the triple I have are roller bearings instead of ball like the VFR (no pics right now). I've been trying to get them off of the steering stem but have not been able to, any tips on this?
Also, I put the whole thing together and from my highly technical measurement system it looks like the axle is 1/2 inch shorter than stock when the top of the forks are flush with the top triple. I am not very experienced with the concept of rake and trail, what would this do to my handling of the bike?
Pictures pending on the server switch (big thanks to HS for making all this work)
[image: View Post]The Phantom, on Jan 17 2009, 11:51 AM, said:
[image: View Post]mrmatt, on Jan 17 2009, 04:21 PM, said:
But after looking at pictures, the shape of the tank of the RC30 appeared significantly different than any VFR models (that I could find for sale), so I have settled on the RC45 which appeared close to the 4th gen VFR.
.
CBR900 dashboard is from memory a plug-in which just needs some tweaking, there may be some info in old topics here.
And the CBR900 headlights leads me to this - I reckon you can use the whole CBR900 (1st Gen) as a basis for what you are doing - just do some mods between the lights to add the bodywork that is scalloped out on the CBR, fill in the little holes each side of the headlights, and you're nearly there:
Single nut rear wheel can be achieved by combining a VFR400 hub assembly (fits into the 4th Gen SSS) and either an original RC30/45 wheel ($$$) or a modified 3rd or 5th Gen wheel (or an aftermarket wheel, more $$$). For the exhaust you need a TBR left exit full header...
Good luck with it!
Ok, so I'm kinda doing the same thing to my VFR, but in a round about way. I have already converted to an CBR 954 front end, and a fully adjustable Wilbers Shock out back. I'm looking at fabbing in an RC-51 tail section. The part that I'm really curious about here is the CBR900RR Gauge cluster, and how much fab/mod work is required to swap out the VFR400 hub assembly. I already have a Duc rear wheel, and can have the wheel pins put in the required locations. What else in involved with that??? TIA!!!
[image: View Post]mrmatt, on Jan 19 2009, 05:00 AM, said:
I've run into a problem, the bearings on the triple I have are roller bearings instead of ball like the VFR (no pics right now). I've been trying to get them off of the steering stem but have not been able to, any tips on this?
Also, I put the whole thing together and from my highly technical measurement system it looks like the axle is 1/2 inch shorter than stock when the top of the forks are flush with the top triple. I am not very experienced with the concept of rake and trail, what would this do to my handling of the bike?
Pictures pending on the server switch (big thanks to HS for making all this work)
I used a dremel tool to remove the steering stem bearings from the steering stem, and had a local garage press on the tapered roller bearings. I have the 954 front end installed, and I like it alot, it does lower the front of the bike a little, but if you use the 954 top triple clamp you'll be fine, just get some clip-ons that mount below it. You'll find that turn-in is a little quicker with the 954 set-up, but I haven't had any issues with stability at all. I'm getting my bike more set up for the track than anything, and the RC-51 tail is a one piece unit, and is quite alot lighter than the stock rear tail. If you have any questions about the 954 front end, PM me, or ask here, and I'll do my best to get back to you
Single nut rear wheel can be achieved by combining a VFR400 hub assembly (fits into the 4th Gen SSS) and either an original RC30/45 wheel ($$$) or a modified 3rd or 5th Gen wheel (or an aftermarket wheel, more $$$). For the exhaust you need a TBR left exit full header...
Good luck with it!
Hmm, is that the VFR400 (NC30) or RVF400 (NC35) ? And could I use an NC30 or 35 rear wheel as well? Project may have gotten a little more expensive...
Been a little slower lately, ordered new steering head bearings and still trying to get the old ones off the steering stem. The new Dremmel may see some action tonight Still saving up for all the fairings, lights, mounts, and dashboard I have yet to buy... I'm keeping track of the cost for future members' reference
not to thread jack but are there any bolt on 6th gen swaps for just the front end? I luv my 6th but I think there are alot of better looking cowls out there.
not to thread jack but are there any bolt on 6th gen swaps for just the front end? I luv my 6th but I think there are alot of better looking cowls out there.
No, but with time and some fab skills you could make anything work to a certain point. One limiting factor for any 800 vfr is the side mount radiators and the cowls that cover them attach to the upper cowl.
i've got a second sharkskinz 900rr race upper if you'd like to buy it for that project. im basically doing the same thing but with a 3rd gen. 900rr subframe won't work without mods to at least the top bars. the gas tank mounts to the subframe on the 900rr (and i dont think it is on the 4th gen)
Update Pics are back, sorry if I repeat myself... Front end bolted on (loosely) [image: Posted Image] DSC01671.JPG
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With the top of the forks flush with the top triple I figure it is about 1/2 inch short with my highly technical measurement system [image: Posted Image] DSC01669.JPG
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I think I'll settle on having the top of the fork tubes flush with the top triple so the blue cap will stick above the plate.
I've done some searching on the CBR gauges, the 93-94 model will not work as it still uses a speedometer cable [image: Posted Image] 93_94 cbr900 gauges f.jpg
[image: Posted Image] 93_94 cbr900 gauges b.jpg
I am still not certain on the 95 CBR900 gauges, I have not been able to get a good picture, but I am fairly certain that the CBR600 F3 gauges will work, judging from these pics* *Correction: with my new found skill of counting, the CBR gauges have only 8 pins per connection [image: Posted Image] 95-98 cbr f3 F.jpg
[image: Posted Image] 95-98 cbr f3 B.jpg
I'm only worried that the F3 gauges will be as big as my VFR so they wouldn't help me much, I think I'll be fighting for space anyway as the clipons are fairly low
I got the inner race off the steering stem by grinding a notch in it with my dremmel and knocking it loose with a cold chisel, shop charged me $10 to press the new one on. I suppose it's worth since I didn't destroy anything trying to hammer it on. I special ordered some washers that are 1mm diameter smaller than the outer races, so I will be able to press these on myself. Ordered an NC30 taillight, shipping from England was more than the part, oh well Still many more things to buy
watching this very clocley mate looking good , i also have 4 gen vfr would like to do some kinda conversion like this does the cbr900 headlight ass faring fit straight up? and the tail sec does it fit a fartory vfr sub frame? ig you know
keep it up ill hopfully post one up some day
The front forks are now officially installed [image: Posted Image] DSC01680.JPG
With a new front tire next week I'll be able to get it back on the ground. I'm also anticipating my spacer for the rear shock to come in on Monday, once I grind down the bolt head I can get that hooked up as well. Been doing a lot of thinking about the subframe, some have gone with the CBR 900 (flyguyeddie) or RC51 (douglasthecook), but I've been thinking about an NC30. The tailpiece is basically the same shape, but I'm not sure on the length or angle from the frame. They are easily bought from the UK, so I might give it a try unless someone has some knowledge they can give me here.
Newest parts ordered: Galfer SS front brake lines ($90) (I'll probably get the rear sometime too, just not as important right now) EBC HH brake pads ($30ea) (thought I might as well replace them while its apart) 93-94 CBR900 headlights ($70)
Did you decide on the rear wheel setup? Here's an option I never saw before, go with the Hawk spindle and modify the 3rd gen 8 spoke wheel to make it single nut: http://www.vfrdiscus...tyle_emoticons/default/+1.gif :mellow:
Small update, Still haven't put the front wheel on, waiting for the Pilot Power tire to come in. Found a 10x120mm corse thread bolt for the rear shock but the head was too thick to fit between the shock and bracket, so I have to show off some of my Dremel skills http://www.vfrdiscus...tyle_emoticons/default/smile.gif [image: Posted Image] DSC01686.JPG With about 2-3mm removed at the middle it fits tight around the shock
I also had several aluminum spacers made at different lengths in case I wanted to change the ride height down the road. Right now I'm installing the tallest, 41.5mm, but the three shown here are 39, 40, and 41 [image: Posted Image] DSC01692.JPG
Parts update: The NC30 taillight came in and I found it will plug directly into the wiring harness, thanks Honda Brake pads installed, clear Galfer lines look great. I almost went for the super high dollar Goodridge lines but remembered I'm not a superbike racer in time.
98 VTR1000F brake and clutch master cylinders/reservoirs ordered ($100 each). Expensive, but looked to be the best preserved/not weathered/not scratched up I could find, and I wanted these to be in good shape.
98 CBR900 gauges ($100, good deal), wanted the 95-97 gauges but couldn't pass up as long as there's a chance of working. My concern with this is that the odometer is digital which is different than the VFR. Matching up the wires correctly will be tricky, plus I have no idea if the gauge inputs will even be the same scale.
Bidding on 900 subframe, I have even less of an idea if I can get that to work, I'm not much of a welder
watching this very clocley mate looking good , i also have 4 gen vfr would like to do some kinda conversion like this does the cbr900 headlight ass faring fit straight up? and the tail sec does it fit a fartory vfr sub frame? ig you know keep it up ill hopfully post one up some day
I still haven't gotten my headlights in so I don't know how I'll attach them. I was kind of thinking of picking up a 93 CBR900 gauge mount so maybe they'll bolt on there, but haven't found a straight one I'm willing to pay for yet. I'm still without the body work, hope to order it in the next few weeks, maybe month if I find some more parts I need.
Did you decide on the rear wheel setup? Here's an option I never saw before, go with the Hawk spindle and modify the 3rd gen 8 spoke wheel to make it single nut: :cool: :cool:
I hadn't thought of that either, right now I'm thinking the rear wheel and left side exhaust will be the second part of the series. Heck, I'm tempted to put the OEM body back on just to see how it rides after all the suspension work.
Do you know if the Hawk spindle will work with a 17" NC35 rear wheel? And is that wheel good to use with the VFR? I see them for sale for around $220 so it would not be hard to get
i have a cbr900rr gauge cluster from a 95 i believe. electric speedometer. i repinned my connector so i could use the stock vfr one, but then again i have to run a speedo line to my cluster. my bike had a cable and i bolted the new electronic drive unit straight onto my sprocket cover with no issues.
your doing exactly what i would be doing if i had a 4th gen. in fact, i wish i had a 4th gen, cause i would like to keep the 900rr tail stock and i wont be able to do that without it looking hideous. so mods would be necessary.
Sunday night update I finally got my new Pilot Power front tire on the rim and the whole front end bolted on [image: Posted Image] DSC01696.JPG
When the VTR master cylinder came in, I was pretty excited to find that it still had some really old brake fluid in it, some of which had congealed in the bottom. After some quality time spent cleaning this out, I was able to install the brakes and bleed them. I'm hoping I did it correctly, first time I've ever had to do that.
With the front back on the ground, I could finish installing the rear shock [image: Posted Image] DSC01695.JPG
Since the 929 rear shock reservoir obstructs the heat shield somewhat, I chopped the lower angle off so I could still shield the battery [image: Posted Image] DSC01698.JPG
I've done some searching on the single nut rear wheel and am certain I have to do it now. The only thing that would worry me is that I will eliminate the cush drive, but to get one of these on the back would be a great addition [image: Posted Image] marchesini wheel.jpg
I found some NC35 spindles in the UK, but I am wondering if a Ducati spindle would fit in the 4th gen SSSA as well? The NC35 also has an inner axle that the Ducati does not seem to have, and the parts may be more available
I have not made any headway on the gauges yet, need to go by a computer store and see if they might have any connectors that I could use, then start to match up the pins. Ordered the fender, tail, and windscreen from ARD in England, will probably call Beasley Composites this week for the upper and lower fairing, they're the only ones I've found that have the headlight cutouts.
Wow Just put the head/taillights back on to take it for a spin and it feels like a competely different bike. Now the steering is much quicker, the lower clipons make me hug the tank. 954 calipers, 330mm rotors, EBC HH pads, Galfer lines all make the brakes very much more responsive than before, all I have to do is touch the brake and I'm stopped. I feel I've made it a bit of a beast just by replacing the suspension, or maybe I was just heavier on the throttle than I usually am, but all of it together was quite a rush switching from the ol' 700. Didn't get out of the city tonight, but tomorrow is looking good. Only problem is that the gauges are still off the bike so speed will be a guessing game http://www.vfrdiscus...tyle_emoticons/default/smile.gif I'm definately still going to put the RC45 body on it (placed an order Monday), just going to ride it for a couple weeks (weather permitting) while I'm waiting for more parts to come in.
and been looking at that marchesini rear wheel a lot lately...
Next step, my CBR900 subframe finally came in so I could get some rough measurements [image: Posted Image] DSC01702.JPG
It looks like it is about 1" longer, 1" taller (between the two struts at the bolt locations), the top is the same width as the frame side, and looks a steeper angle, so there's going to be a bit of modification needed for this to work. Stay tuned, if I can pull this one off with my Dremel then anyone can do it. Good thing is that it's very light, will be another good upgrade to the VFR. Also, my tailpiece hasn't come in so nothing can be chopped/bolted yet. Looking at it, I think my exhaust will have to be pulled away from the tail, but there's a lot of room for adjustment on that side for anywhere I want to put it. I have a pretty good idea of how the gauges are wired, downloaded the CBR900 wiring diagrams so all I need is the harness I ordered yesterday and I'll be able to test them out shortly, speedo and tach are obviously the ones I'm worried about the most. Odd thing is that the back has 20 pins, but the diagram only has 14 wires going to them, guess I'll find out soon. I'll post up the pin numbers and function when I get it figured out.
This is an awesome build!
I'm looking to junk the rear plastics from my VFR too ('94, same shape as yours) and I will be interested in seeing how your subframe mod goes.
Good luck with it all, keep up the good work!
Nate :)
[image: View Post]mrmatt, on Feb 28 2009, 11:06 PM, said:
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Next step, my CBR900 subframe finally came in so I could get some rough measurements
[image: Posted Image] DSC01702.JPG
It looks like it is about 1" longer, 1" taller (between the two struts at the bolt locations), the top is the same width as the frame side, and looks a steeper angle, so there's going to be a bit of modification needed for this to work. Stay tuned, if I can pull this one off with my Dremel then anyone can do it. Good thing is that it's very light, will be another good upgrade to the VFR. Also, my tailpiece hasn't come in so nothing can be chopped/bolted yet. Looking at it, I think my exhaust will have to be pulled away from the tail, but there's a lot of room for adjustment on that side for anywhere I want to put it.
I have a pretty good idea of how the gauges are wired, downloaded the CBR900 wiring diagrams so all I need is the harness I ordered yesterday and I'll be able to test them out shortly, speedo and tach are obviously the ones I'm worried about the most. Odd thing is that the back has 20 pins, but the diagram only has 14 wires going to them, guess I'll find out soon. I'll post up the pin numbers and function when I get it figured out.
god im so jealous of you guys with the 4th gens and no nasty frame vents!!!!
I got the gauges hooked up and (mostly) working! There's one spot on the tach at 9krpm that's messed up, I've been looking for some different backings but haven't found it yet. Might just have to put some paint over it.
For some reason it thinks it's a little warm in my garage, but all the signals and tach looked good, haven't taken it out so I can't say about the speedometer.
To splice it into the VFR wiring harness, I found these at the local Home Depot, it was even the correct size for the small wire ends.
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All the connectors together is a little messy, I wish I could find some that take more than 3 on each side so I'll keep looking, but for now it works much better than more permanent things like wire nuts.
I tried to figure out what was wrong with the temp sensor, but have so far not come up with anything. From the VFR manual the resistance on the wire to ground should have been around 60 ohms, which it was, so I cross checked it with the CBR and it appears to have close to the same temperature scale. Anyone know what might be going on?
For all of the other wires, here's the map I used. Most turned out to be the same color anyway.
From the '98 CBR900 side: function/ CBR wire color/ VFR wire color
Right turn / L Blue / L Blue
Left turn / Orange / Orange
Neutral light / L Green:Red / L Green:Red
Oil / Blue:Red / Blue:Red
High beam / Blue / Blue:Black
Tachometer / Yellow:Green / Yellow:Green
Ground / Green / Green or Green:Black
Ground / Green / Green or Green:Black
Battery (to main fuse) / Red / Red:Green*
Speed Sensor / Pink:Green / Pink
Meter and lights common to 10A fuse / Black:Brown / Black:Brown
Temperature / Green:Blue / Green:Blue
Dash illumination / Brown / Brown:White
Speed Sensor Ground / Green:Black / Green or Green:Black
14 leads on CBR gauges, 20 leads on VFR
*for the Battery I used the positive clock lead since it is the same, only passes through a 10A fuse
This wiring is still untested, but by looking at the diagrams I believe it should work (minus the temperature)
I didn't get time to look at the subframe, I want to wait until the tailpiece comes in anyway. All of the fairings have been ordered now, maybe they'll start coming in this week, though some is coming from ARD so it might take a bit longer.
Love the connector idea but in my situation I wouldn't have the room to fit a bundle that size behind my tiny cbr1000r gauges. I hardwired the cbr harness into the vfr main harness.
To make a super long story short, I all ready had an aftermarket water temp sensor installed that gives the correct range. See if the cbr9 sensor can be installed into the thermostat. That was my next plan of attack if the aftermarket unit (koso) didn't work. IIRC my original stock sensor (analog) also sent too high of readings.
Good luck and keep up the good work. A lot of folks (myself included before I did mine) don't realize the amount of work and hours that it can take.
If you can give me an idea of what number of pins you need there, and what gauges, I could take a look through an ITT Cannon MIL-spec catalog at work tomorrow. Cannon's catalog is the easiest one I know of to actually find things, although Positronics isn't bad either. MIL-spec just gives you a nice part number so that any company that makes that part number will work, the parts are not company specific so you can mate a Cannon male plug to a female receptical made by Positronics, for instance. They're also weather hardened.
I also have no idea what they would cost you on the open market, but they'd be a great way to get a lot more pins into a smaller package than the multiple three-socket connectors you're using now, if you want to reduce size. If not, no big deal, just thought I'd offer a little help.
Cool project, I love the look of of the RC45 from the front, can't wait to see how your conversion turns out.
After waiting about 1-2 weeks, I have my upper from Beasley Composites
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I am pretty happy with the turn around, I still have not heard anything from ARD who took my money 3 weeks ago. Hopefully it's in the mail. I still need to order a lower, the one Beasley makes is slightly different in the front, does not have the small shroud at the bottom of the V, so I may just get one from Airtech since it is taking so long to get anything from ARD (who is cheaper even with shipping).
I spent some time trying to make a $5 multimeter into a fuel gauge/voltage monitor combo, but was not able to make anything of it. I wanted to hook it up so a push-button switch would toggle between the two modes and get rid of the dial, but there were too many wires for me to simply connect. I think I would need some logic circuits to make it work, which is beyond what I had in mind. I'm looking at the Datel ones but haven't bought anything yet. Would really like to combine these on one display.
I also need to figure out what upper fairing stay I'm going to use/modify. I think the 93-94 900RR might be the closest candidate which should be able to bolt onto the two stays on either side of the steering head.
Also I've got another mod sitting in the back of my garage that may or may not work... more on this later :ph34r:
Another option for your connectors would be to use a DB9 or DB15 or DB25 from a computer cable. Since the gauges are mostly low power the small wiring should be ok. You might even be able to use a Disk Drive cable that is flat...plenty of those connections to be had.
Perhaps I'll figure out how to post pics here, and take some of my RC-51 tail implant. It just might give someone else ideas, like all of you have given me. I wouldn't be attempting this w/o assistance from guys like fotomoto, mrmatt and a few select others. Good luck, and keep the pics coming!!!
I've taken the front apart again, all the way back to the frame now, so I'm committed and probably won't be riding it until the new body is done (but at least I'll still be riding thanks to MBD :) )
The fairing stays that hang the radiator were in the way of sliding the RC45 upper on, the Dremel took care of this. Now they still hang the radiator and front ignition coils, but not the fairing, so coming from a bit of an upward angle I can slide my new fairing into place, approximately. But with moving it around to where I think it should go, I've run into my first problem. The RC45 is apparently pretty narrow, so now some oil lines on the right and both bottom sides of my radiator are hitting the body. I think I can work with the oil lines, but not so much on the radiator.
My first thought is to look for some other radiators that I can swap out and would have a more narrow profile, it would not have to be by much. I found a CBR F4 looks like it might angle inward at the very bottom, also the CBR 1000 is very much like a 'V'.
So now I need some help on a couple questions, what are the dimentions of the F4 and 1000 radiators, and are either the right size? If I get one too small I'm sure to have overheating problems, too big and I might run too cold. If those of you with CBR's can measure your radiators for me I'd be really grateful and give me a better idea of what space I have
[image: View Post]mrmatt, on Mar 21 2009, 07:27 AM, said:
[image: Posted Image] DSC01717.JPG
So now I need some help on a couple questions, what are the dimentions of the F4 and 1000 radiators, and are either the right size? If I get one too small I'm sure to have overheating problems, too big and I might run too cold.
I wouldn't worry about the size of the rad affecting your running temps. We have a thermostat that allows water to flow in and out of the rad, so get what will fit, and leave the cooling to the components. I am planning on retiring in Phoenix when my military career is over. When I was in Vegas for 3 years my VFR would run warmer than I wanted it to, so I have been considering running an additional radiator. Remember, all the rad does is hold the water and cool it, the thermostat allows water to enter and leave the radiator when the temp is appropriate. You might be able to augment with a rad from a suzuki or something else like that as well. I'd go down to your local used motorcycle dealer with a tape measure, and start mapping out dimensions. Another thing you have to take into consideration is how the front exhaust headers will affect the way the rad mounts. Hope this helps!
Heck, the 3rd and 4th gen VFRs have such small stock radiators to start with (looks very similar in size to what my Hawk GT 650 had), that most other radiators from other sport and ST bikes might provide more cooling capacity....unless the VFR's radiator is a double row type and the others use single....not sure about that detail.
How much interference is there? You might be able to slim the stoack rad down by cutting and rewelding it. Or try curving it, if you have room to do so.
Alright, have had some time to look things over and got a better grasp of this one
[image: Posted Image] DSC01719.JPG
Rear wheel from 07 Ducati Multistrada
[image: Posted Image] DSC01720.JPG
Rear hub from 06/07 Speed Triple
[image: Posted Image] DSC01725.JPG
I got the hub from a member here that was trying a similar conversion on his 5th gen but it didn't quite fit for him, wheel from ebay. Two issues that I know of right now, alignment and axle length. It looks like the axle can lose around an inch, so I'll need to find a good machinist to cut and rethread it for me. Alignment looks very close, I haven't actually put it on yet, but from sighting the hub I might be 4-5mm to the left (max).
Any ideas on these two? Hopefully tomorrow I can actually get it mounted up and check the alignment for real.
No update on the radiator situation yet, still thinking about this one. The VFR radiator is 17in wide and 7in tall. If I were a welder a couple of cuts to the corners is all I need, however (sadly) no welder am I, so off to take some measurements, maybe all I need is one from a 400 (good idea), we'll see
Aren't you making things harder than they need to be? Get either the corresponding matching wheel or hub.
Here's what I planned on doing but have put things on hold: ducati spindle and wheel. Machine off the backside half of the ducati axle so you are only left with the brake rotor mounts and the threaded front portion of the axle for the wheel mounting. Cut off the brake rotor mounting points as they are offset and you want a flat surface. Drill press on the remaining rotor carrier 4 matching holes for the vfr lug bolts. The triumph axle in the above pics all ready has the holes in these spots but they are WAY too large. Slide it on to the vfr hub and bolt it down with regular nuts (not the lug nuts). Clearance backside of wheel to clear nuts if needed (probably so). Bolt ducati wheel to the ducati axle. Hope this makes sense.
A quick check with a hypermotard wheel on my 4gen showed that the offset clearance with the vfr brake caliper could be tight; very, very tight. Wheel alignment is, of course, critical too but you won't know until you do it. (yikes!)
I had to take the exhaust off to slip the wheel on, but will look great when I get this finished.
[image: Posted Image] DSC01730.JPG
The sprocket lines up very well with the chain, also it is the same size as the VFR (42T) so no chain conversion will be necessary.
[image: Posted Image] DSC01736.JPG
I took a straight edge and marked the relative offset on the swingarm of each wheel and sprocket. The hub is actually about 1mm off and the wheel may be about 5mm. This was with the tires on the wheels and not from measuring the rim. The Dunlop on the VFR rim actually slopes out from the rim edge so the width of each with their respective tires is very close. I think the Ducati is around 2mm wider, so the offset I have to account for would be 4mm (not finalized yet, I'll post up exact numbers when I know)
I probably am making things harder than should/could be, but I started going this way for a couple of reasons. The bearing hub that fits in the swingarm is the exact same size as the VFR, so now I don't have to worry about matching the inner/outer diameter on the bearings since the complete assembly is from the same model. Also, the sprocket is the same size so no chain/sprocket/gearing conversion, I might look into this later but right now I didn't want to mess with that. Again, since the assembly is from the same model the rear brake caliper will fit on the disc inside the wheel and I only have to think about the torque arm to fit to the swingarm. Initially I was trying for a way to not have to machine anything and be a bolt on, but the axle is just too long.
I don't know how close the VFR400 axle swap would be, but this seemed to be viable and I haven't seen anyone else try it so I thought I would. Then at least we'll know what works and how much work is needed. Going the Ducati route is very interesting, be sure to post up and let us know the result (might try it myself if I can't conquer the Speed Triple)
[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on Apr 4 2009, 09:38 AM, said:
Matt, show me a pic of what you want to do on the rad, I might be able to help you.
Thanks Seb, I might take you up on that but we'll see. I've sort of not been thinking about the radiator with trying to get the rear wheel aligned.
On the right side just the bottom corner of the rad needs to have an angle on it instead of being square, but on the left there is the hose to the water pump so it might have to be moved higher which would require a bit more work. If I can find one on fleabay that's the right size/price I'll probably go for it, but I haven't really looked yet. I just saw vfroem's work on his VFR837 and he's really changed up his cooling system. I probably won't go for all of it but maybe some ideas will come.
[image: View Post]mrmatt, on Apr 3 2009, 11:03 PM, said:
Alright, have had some time to look things over and got a better grasp of this one
[image: Posted Image] DSC01719.JPG
Rear wheel from 07 Ducati Multistrada
[image: Posted Image] DSC01720.JPG
Rear hub from 06/07 Speed Triple
[image: Posted Image] DSC01725.JPG
I got the hub from a member here that was trying a similar conversion on his 5th gen but it didn't quite fit for him, wheel from ebay. Two issues that I know of right now, alignment and axle length. It looks like the axle can lose around an inch, so I'll need to find a good machinist to cut and rethread it for me. Alignment looks very close, I haven't actually put it on yet, but from sighting the hub I might be 4-5mm to the left (max).
Any ideas on these two? Hopefully tomorrow I can actually get it mounted up and check the alignment for real.
No update on the radiator situation yet, still thinking about this one. The VFR radiator is 17in wide and 7in tall. If I were a welder a couple of cuts to the corners is all I need, however (sadly) no welder am I, so off to take some measurements, maybe all I need is one from a 400 (good idea), we'll see
i have the same problem.. every shop tells me the axle is hardend steal and they cant cut the treads..
one shop did say they can cut them.. but only to a standard .. no metric.. so now i am looking for a nut to fit.. with fine treads.
Well, in the interest of riding my 750 until all the rest of the bodywork comes in and my ambition builds up again, I've put it all back together and ordered a 954 front fender. Tonight I was working on the dashboard and was finally successful.
[image: Posted Image] DSC01745.JPG
To mount the CBR900 gauges I needed an L bracket that would tie in to the fairing stay. I found a thin piece of aluminum at home depot that would work nicely. I first cut it down to about 6"x6" and bent a 1.5" L in the bottom that would hold the dash. Then 3 holes in the upright to match the fairing stay, 2 holes in the L to hold the dash, and a final one for the solitary screw that keeps the dash from falling off.
[image: Posted Image] DSC01740.JPG
I had to reroute the wiring harness to go beneath the dash since I didn't make the wires long enough from my gauges. The oil radiator I had moved lower for clearance for the forks so there was plenty of room anyway.
[image: Posted Image] DSC01747.JPG
[image: Posted Image] DSC01748.JPG
At full lock the brake and clutch masters pass overtop of the gauges nicely, though it is a close fit. Also it barely fits under the windscreen (I think it's just touching), something I didn't measure for and just happened to work out. To do it again, I would move the dash about 1/2 to 1 inch lower for good clearance with the windscreen and gauge wiring, but I think this will work.
4 miles to the gallon?
Couple of days with the new gauges and hate to say that the speedometer didn't convert correctly, reads somewhere around 10x slower. All indicators work, and the tach feels close so it wasn't a total failure :) . Right now it looks like I'll be investing in a speedohealer. I ordered a CBR900 temp sensor so when I put that in hopefully it will fix the temperature reading. Also have a 2 wire voltmeter from Datel digital meters and a fuel gauge from Cyberdyne that I can put in somewhere next week.
Front fender is in but mounting hardware is not (forgot to order it before), should be able to use the same screws when I get the RC45 fender so it won't be a waste.
Also fitting 954 front 2 me 4th gen. aNY CHANCE YOU CAN DROP ME THE bearing sizes, any clues to fitting the yokes to slip in front. Keep it up the work.. i know i will till im dun!
[image: View Post]B4D80Y, on Apr 27 2009, 08:01 PM, said:
Also fitting 954 front 2 me 4th gen. aNY CHANCE YOU CAN DROP ME THE bearing sizes, any clues to fitting the yokes to slip in front. Keep it up the work.. i know i will till im dun!
I just ordered the stock VFR top and bottom bearings online (hdlparts.com) and they are the same size that will fit on the 954 triple. Sorry I don't know the exact sizes, but if you look up on allballs I think they have the equivalent tapered roller bearing part numbers that will fit as well if you want roller instead of ball.
I am not sure what you're asking on the second part about the yokes, for the height of the forks above the top triple I set them just below the blue cap and made sure that they were even by sliding the axle through.
Also with the stock body there are at least three issues that I am aware of: dashboard clearance, oil radiator interference, and inner shroud/wind deflector clearance.
The brake and clutch reservoirs/master cylinders will not fit with the 954 clipons and would hit the dash since the clipons have to go below the top triple, this could be probably fixed with some tall helibars. The front forks and lower triple will also hit the oil radiator and oil lines, this can be temporarily fixed by moving the radiator to the lowest hole in the upper stay, or a better/more permanent solution is to put a slight bend in it and curve it away from the forks. I just discovered the last problem this weekend, the inner U shaped shroud will need some cutting away at the top which shouldn't be very hard at all, and won't effect any of the tie in points.
Hope this helps, have any more questions post them up
[image: View Post]mrmatt, on Apr 28 2009, 04:34 AM, said:
[image: View Post]B4D80Y, on Apr 27 2009, 08:01 PM, said:
Also fitting 954 front 2 me 4th gen. aNY CHANCE YOU CAN DROP ME THE bearing sizes, any clues to fitting the yokes to slip in front. Keep it up the work.. i know i will till im dun!
I just ordered the stock VFR top and bottom bearings online (hdlparts.com) and they are the same size that will fit on the 954 triple. Sorry I don't know the exact sizes, but if you look up on allballs I think they have the equivalent tapered roller bearing part numbers that will fit as well if you want roller instead of ball.
I am not sure what you're asking on the second part about the yokes, for the height of the forks above the top triple I set them just below the blue cap and made sure that they were even by sliding the axle through.
Also with the stock body there are at least three issues that I am aware of: dashboard clearance, oil radiator interference, and inner shroud/wind deflector clearance.
The brake and clutch reservoirs/master cylinders will not fit with the 954 clipons and would hit the dash since the clipons have to go below the top triple, this could be probably fixed with some tall helibars. The front forks and lower triple will also hit the oil radiator and oil lines, this can be temporarily fixed by moving the radiator to the lowest hole in the upper stay, or a better/more permanent solution is to put a slight bend in it and curve it away from the forks. I just discovered the last problem this weekend, the inner U shaped shroud will need some cutting away at the top which shouldn't be very hard at all, and won't effect any of the tie in points.
Hope this helps, have any more questions post them up
Ok im off to garage now to try out the vfr bearings i have already. Hoping your saying the vfr bearings will fit on the 954 stem. will soon find out.
Ill also take a few picks.
Had same project on table over two years now. Just picked up a decent '95 engine and parts so now have good donor. But my last blade front end project has been so good that i havent needed to upgrade.
Hey Kev great to see you're still on the case with your bike :fing02:
How's the business going?
hi buddy,
things goin good here on Isle of Man thanks.
TT comming up in next few weeks. Just had more stock arrive than i have space for in shop!
Am just sorting a low milage vfr(was a cheap damaged front ender which ive put back to standard for ease getting road paperwork sorted) before i butcher and put me two bros system on.. and now 954 front.. and few other shiny bits..
Checked bearing fitments today on front end and yes indeed look like they are same bearings to fit 954 yokes and stem two vfr frame.. woop woop
Still a few bits to do like lock up me rear rc30 brake stay. But hopefully wont be long before me dymag in 954 front is rolling with me 5.75 dymag rear. The Marvics will have to go. The rear is a massive 6.5 and too big to run on this set up.
Was going to take a few pics today, but i ran out of time.
Gotta take all the weight out of the standard bike and fit different body work properly yet, so a total strip last on the list.
The rear end ducati subframe convertion is sorted, so can change from road to track subframes with ease.
The list goes on..
Will prob run this low milage standard vfr this summer before taking apart and adding above tweeks. I have a further main frame and parts to practice with and mock up on.
Hope to race it here next year as i missed the start of season this year. Just hope the vfr power deficit will not let me down too much on track up against newer stuff... will c.. some guys dont push so hard and so hope vfr will be a good bike to compete on and get me next licence. the vfr on the right of pic here was awsome to ride on so hope the new and improved mode will be even sweeter
[image: Posted Image] mock up some time ago soon my pretty
[image: View Post]mrmatt, on Apr 28 2009, 04:34 AM, said:
[image: View Post]B4D80Y, on Apr 27 2009, 08:01 PM, said:
Also fitting 954 front 2 me 4th gen. aNY CHANCE YOU CAN DROP ME THE bearing sizes, any clues to fitting the yokes to slip in front. Keep it up the work.. i know i will till im dun!
I just ordered the stock VFR top and bottom bearings online (hdlparts.com) and they are the same size that will fit on the 954 triple. Sorry I don't know the exact sizes, but if you look up on allballs I think they have the equivalent tapered roller bearing part numbers that will fit as well if you want roller instead of ball.
I am not sure what you're asking on the second part about the yokes, for the height of the forks above the top triple I set them just below the blue cap and made sure that they were even by sliding the axle through.
Also with the stock body there are at least three issues that I am aware of: dashboard clearance, oil radiator interference, and inner shroud/wind deflector clearance.
The brake and clutch reservoirs/master cylinders will not fit with the 954 clipons and would hit the dash since the clipons have to go below the top triple, this could be probably fixed with some tall helibars. The front forks and lower triple will also hit the oil radiator and oil lines, this can be temporarily fixed by moving the radiator to the lowest hole in the upper stay, or a better/more permanent solution is to put a slight bend in it and curve it away from the forks. I just discovered the last problem this weekend, the inner U shaped shroud will need some cutting away at the top which shouldn't be very hard at all, and won't effect any of the tie in points.
Hope this helps, have any more questions post them up
Yes indeed , bearings are the same, so thats just the best news ive had in a long time! no messin with washers, spacers or anything!
I have all sizes and part numbers on file.
Will be setting forks as low as poss on yokes as im not keen on tank slappers.
The dash im considering is a Vapour unit as ive seen else where they work real nice, plug and play.. altho id much prefur a dial for the revs,, so like yourself, plenty to worth with there.
oil rad can be relocated no worries.
Am seriously hoping to junk vfr bodywork for ducati 916 stuff so will go with race clipons, 954 brake and clutch master units and fit body to match with ally adaptor bolted to headstock. Weight is everything in this build. So not worried about standard bodywork getting in way... yet. depends if i decide to do things bit by bit or just go balls out... soon.....
Good to hear things are going well on the IoM. Pics and vid of any racing you do on the VFR are a necessity you know :beer:
The owner of that other Indigo system knows to contact me if he ever wants to sell it (the 3rd Gen it's on has been sitting around for a few years now since he bought 4th Gen). Did you sort that TBR system out? (sorry for the threadjack Matt but Kev's project would be interesting to you).
Good to hear things are going well on the IoM. Pics and vid of any racing you do on the VFR are a necessity you know :beer:
The owner of that other Indigo system knows to contact me if he ever wants to sell it (the 3rd Gen it's on has been sitting around for a few years now since he bought 4th Gen). Did you sort that TBR system out? (sorry for the threadjack Matt but Kev's project would be interesting to you).
No worries, that's the kind of discussion I want to keep going.
Thanks for posting this up, another great project, don't forget to show some final pics with that 916 body and some steps along the way if you can. I'm very interested in the rear wheel conversion, and the ducati subframe if you have some more details on those, things like spacing and alignment on the wheel and modifications you had to make to the subframe.
Update on my project, all of my RC45 bodywork has come in now so I can finally start the grinding/sanding/cutting... (not as much fun as the suspension). I found some 5 3/4 inch headlights from Aztec8, rather expensive but I'm keeping them in mind if I can't get the CBR headlights to work.
No worries, that's the kind of discussion I want to keep going.
Thanks for posting this up, another great project, don't forget to show some final pics with that 916 body and some steps along the way if you can. I'm very interested in the rear wheel conversion, and the ducati subframe if you have some more details on those, things like spacing and alignment on the wheel and modifications you had to make to the subframe.
Update on my project, all of my RC45 bodywork has come in now so I can finally start the grinding/sanding/cutting... (not as much fun as the suspension). I found some 5 3/4 inch headlights from Aztec8, rather expensive but I'm keeping them in mind if I can't get the CBR headlights to work.
[/quote]
45 stuff sounds cool, might have to ditch ducati stuff so i can get thru scrutineering easyer.. but thats will be another story...
Heres a pic of the mock up from a few yers ago hack saw and file style made before i got asimilar stronger cnc adapter sorted for ducati rear fitment... not that this one wasnt stong enough anyway!
[image: Posted Image] ducati adaptor fitting
Also have the ally race rear unit which will slip right in.. That was the origonal idea.. change from road to race one or two passengers when i liked..
Am thinking to fit all electric ancilleries to the carbon under tray.. but not at that stage yet.
more to follow.. lol
I took the entire rear subframe and wheel off and started matching up the new stuff I'll be putting in. My spacers came in so I was able to bolt on the rear axle to see how it looked
[image: Posted Image] DSC01761.JPG
[image: Posted Image] DSC01762.JPG
[image: Posted Image] DSC01763.JPG
[image: Posted Image] DSC01764.JPG
[image: Posted Image] DSC01766.JPG
[image: Posted Image] DSC01768.JPG
I still need to check with a local machine shop if they can modify the axle and spacer for me, then I can put it together for real. The CBR900 subframe will take a lot of work, but first I'm trying to fit the tailpiece in place so I can see where the subframe will need to be. The tail needs some material taken out of the middle to match the tank, and on the sides to fit over the frame, but it's pretty close.
I tried to fit up the upper and lower fairing as well, but I think the exhaust is getting in the way where the 4 headers join into 1, also the center stand will have to go. I really hope this doesn't drive me to a full exhaust system change, which would be a nice but unanticipated expense.
Edit:
One thing I forgot to mention, the first spacer that is on the axle that fits inside the eccentric hub is 5mm (for the wheel alignment), and the one that fits inside of the cush drive/sprocket carrier is 2.5mm (for chain alignment).
Nice work!!! I'm going to try and take some pics of how I mounted my RC-51 subframe so you may be able to get an idea or two from what I did. How I did it, it is completely bolt-on, and can be changed back to stock in around 1-2 hours. PM me your e-mail, and I'll send you the pics directly if you want, once I take them.
Pre-update
I found an awesome mechinist in town and he rethreaded, cut, and drilled everyting I needed on the Speed Triple axle for $60, really helped me out and I will highly recommend him to anyone. He's got several bikes sitting in the shop (mostly Yamaha's, couple FJ's, and rides a CB550). I'm hoping tomorrow I can get it all back together and ride with the new rear end.
RC45 bodywork may have to wait for a little while longer... (sorry to anyone waiting to see this part)
BTW, are you also doing a rear brake caliper flip??
Might as well do it now while you're deep in there!!
You will avoid ride height reducing effect when you tighten the chain.
All day in the garage but I finally have it back together, with the Ducati rear wheel installed
[image: Posted Image] DSC01773.JPG
[image: Posted Image] DSC01774.JPG
I used a few washers to space the rear caliper the same 5mm
[image: Posted Image] DSC01771.JPG
And made my own torque arm (with my dremel and hand-held drill)
[image: Posted Image] DSC01772.JPG
Its pretty rough, just used two 1/8 inch aluminum bar stock because I couldn't find anyone with the 1/4 inch stuff. I'll be making a better one later, but it'll do for now. I didn't get much of a chance to ride tonight, but what I did felt great, I'm really happy on how it's turned out. Also, I only swapped brake calipers out and it seems to work with the VFR rear master cylinder.
And I fixed the temperature sensor, ordered a CBR900 one and it is the same size as the VFR, just screwed it in and I get the right temp.
[image: View Post]The Phantom, on May 16 2009, 06:57 PM, said:
So it works... well done MrMatt on coming up with something new! :fing02: :fing02: :fing02:
Now added to my list of potential mods... I'd love to have the lugnut holes on my 8-spoke welded up and convert it to single-nut...
Thanks, it was really Jim (sa1713) that got me going on this, offered me the Speed Triple hub that he had and told me it would fit in the 4th gen. All you need is a really good machinist and some precision spacers and it is a bolt on conversion
[image: View Post]Beck, on May 16 2009, 11:21 PM, said:
BTW, are you also doing a rear brake caliper flip??
Might as well do it now while you're deep in there!!
You will avoid ride height reducing effect when you tighten the chain.
Beck
95 VFR
I'm not quite sure what you're talking about here, I ended up putting the rear caliper back at the 12 oclock position again since that is how long the brake line is. Also, anywhere between 1 and 9 the caliper bolt heads would hit the swingarm, I didn't want to try to make a whole new caliper bracket and just used the Triumph one.
(and now its too late, I just put everything back... getting to know every screw very well...)
[image: View Post]mrmatt, on May 18 2009, 06:45 AM, said:
[image: View Post]Beck, on May 16 2009, 11:21 PM, said:
BTW, are you also doing a rear brake caliper flip??
Might as well do it now while you're deep in there!!
You will avoid ride height reducing effect when you tighten the chain.
Beck
95 VFR
I'm not quite sure what you're talking about here, I ended up putting the rear caliper back at the 12 oclock position again since that is how long the brake line is. Also, anywhere between 1 and 9 the caliper bolt heads would hit the swingarm, I didn't want to try to make a whole new caliper bracket and just used the Triumph one.
(and now its too late, I just put everything back... getting to know every screw very well...)
When you tighten the chain on a 4th (and maybe also 3rd) gen VFR, the eccentric makes the rear end drop down a little, slightly changing your bikes chassis geometry. If you flip the eccentic and relocate the caliper to the bottom of the disc, the effect will be reversed, so you raise the tail (which the VFRs can all use anyway to improve handling/response) when you tighten the chain on the bike. It's been done by some here, but does involve countersinking a couple of bolts for clearance. You can do a search on the site. I'm sure a few threads must have been saved on the topic.
[image: View Post]mrmatt, on May 18 2009, 07:29 AM, said:
All day in the garage but I finally have it back together, with the Ducati rear wheel installed
[image: Posted Image] DSC01773.JPG
[image: Posted Image] DSC01774.JPG
I used a few washers to space the rear caliper the same 5mm
[image: Posted Image] DSC01771.JPG
And made my own torque arm (with my dremel and hand-held drill)
[image: Posted Image] DSC01772.JPG
Its pretty rough, just used two 1/8 inch aluminum bar stock because I couldn't find anyone with the 1/4 inch stuff. I'll be making a better one later, but it'll do for now. I didn't get much of a chance to ride tonight, but what I did felt great, I'm really happy on how it's turned out. Also, I only swapped brake calipers out and it seems to work with the VFR rear master cylinder.
And I fixed the temperature sensor, ordered a CBR900 one and it is the same size as the VFR, just screwed it in and I get the right temp.
Look pretty good, stock/factory installed even!!! Any year on the CBR 900 in particular for the temp sensor, or is there a specific year that needs to be ordered? It looks like you have Pirelli Sync tires installed, I have a spare rear that will fit your rim, so if you need it, perhaps we can work something out...
[image: View Post]Beck, on May 18 2009, 02:52 AM, said:
When you tighten the chain on a 4th (and maybe also 3rd) gen VFR, the eccentric makes the rear end drop down a little, slightly changing your bikes chassis geometry. If you flip the eccentic and relocate the caliper to the bottom of the disc, the effect will be reversed, so you raise the tail (which the VFRs can all use anyway to improve handling/response) when you tighten the chain on the bike. It's been done by some here, but does involve countersinking a couple of bolts for clearance. You can do a search on the site. I'm sure a few threads must have been saved on the topic.
Beck
95 VFR
Ok, thanks, that makes sense. I'll have to think about that one, but it will be super easy to do once I figure out the caliper bracket/torque arm link again.
[image: View Post]douglasthecook, on May 18 2009, 01:04 PM, said:
Look pretty good, stock/factory installed even!!! Any year on the CBR 900 in particular for the temp sensor, or is there a specific year that needs to be ordered? It looks like you have Pirelli Sync tires installed, I have a spare rear that will fit your rim, so if you need it, perhaps we can work something out...
Thanks, I matched the temp sensor with the year of gauges I got, so its from a 98 CBR900 (about $30). From riding today, I'm getting a warm bike temp of 165-175 F, is this the normal operating temperature? It looks very reasonable to me so I believe its accurate.
Thanks for the offer, the tire is just what came with the wheel and it seems to hold air have have some tread left. Tire types represent a large hole in my mind where there should be information, I was planning to wear it out and replace with a Pilot Road 2 or Pilot Power since I've heard a lot of people around here like them both.
[image: View Post]mrmatt, on May 19 2009, 05:05 AM, said:
[image: View Post]douglasthecook, on May 18 2009, 01:04 PM, said:
Look pretty good, stock/factory installed even!!! Any year on the CBR 900 in particular for the temp sensor, or is there a specific year that needs to be ordered? It looks like you have Pirelli Sync tires installed, I have a spare rear that will fit your rim, so if you need it, perhaps we can work something out...
Thanks, I matched the temp sensor with the year of gauges I got, so its from a 98 CBR900 (about $30). From riding today, I'm getting a warm bike temp of 165-175 F, is this the normal operating temperature? It looks very reasonable to me so I believe its accurate.
Thanks for the offer, the tire is just what came with the wheel and it seems to hold air have have some tread left. Tire types represent a large hole in my mind where there should be information, I was planning to wear it out and replace with a Pilot Road 2 or Pilot Power since I've heard a lot of people around here like them both.
My Ducati rear rim also came with the Pirelli. I have a new Conti Sport Attack mounted to it. The pirelli has about 85% tread life in it, I don't really know what to do with it. I'm a fan of the Conti's so far. I've done trackdays at Assen, Valencia and Sachsenring on the Conti Road Attacks, but I want something a little stickier. Perhaps like you, my next set may be the new Pilot Power 2CT's or something similar. The Bridgestone BT-016's look intriguing as well. I still need to install my new rear axle, courtesy of SAFE-T, and am just waiting for my final 2 pieces of parts to arrive. More than likely it'll be the weekend of the 13th, of June that is. I'm envious, yours is ready to go!!!
[image: View Post]douglasthecook, on May 19 2009, 01:37 PM, said:
My Ducati rear rim also came with the Pirelli. I have a new Conti Sport Attack mounted to it. The pirelli has about 85% tread life in it, I don't really know what to do with it. I'm a fan of the Conti's so far. I've done trackdays at Assen, Valencia and Sachsenring on the Conti Road Attacks, but I want something a little stickier. Perhaps like you, my next set may be the new Pilot Power 2CT's or something similar. The Bridgestone BT-016's look intriguing as well. I still need to install my new rear axle, courtesy of SAFE-T, and am just waiting for my final 2 pieces of parts to arrive. More than likely it'll be the weekend of the 13th, of June that is. I'm envious, yours is ready to go!!!
Nice, I hate waiting for parts.
Which axle/wheel combo are you going with? I suspect the VFR400 might be an easier swap, plus without the cush drive it should be lighter.
How mine looks all together with stock bodywork. The 5 spoke looks a lot (almost exactly) like the 5th-6th gen VFR, I think it looks good with the design of the bike. If I want something more radical and lighter there's always more options now (with a price)
[image: Posted Image] DSC01775.JPG
[image: View Post]mrmatt, on May 21 2009, 07:31 PM, said:
[image: View Post]douglasthecook, on May 19 2009, 01:37 PM, said:
My Ducati rear rim also came with the Pirelli. I have a new Conti Sport Attack mounted to it. The pirelli has about 85% tread life in it, I don't really know what to do with it. I'm a fan of the Conti's so far. I've done trackdays at Assen, Valencia and Sachsenring on the Conti Road Attacks, but I want something a little stickier. Perhaps like you, my next set may be the new Pilot Power 2CT's or something similar. The Bridgestone BT-016's look intriguing as well. I still need to install my new rear axle, courtesy of SAFE-T, and am just waiting for my final 2 pieces of parts to arrive. More than likely it'll be the weekend of the 13th, of June that is. I'm envious, yours is ready to go!!!
Nice, I hate waiting for parts.
Which axle/wheel combo are you going with? I suspect the VFR400 might be an easier swap, plus without the cush drive it should be lighter.
How mine looks all together with stock bodywork. The 5 spoke looks a lot (almost exactly) like the 5th-6th gen VFR, I think it looks good with the design of the bike. If I want something more radical and lighter there's always more options now (with a price)
[image: Posted Image] DSC01775.JPG
So did you notice any handling difference with the wider rear tire? I had a stock VFR rear axle modified, sent a new one off to SAFE-T, and he knew a machinist that could do the work. It's so good, I can't tell where the stock axle ends, and the new part begins!!! This is something that I seem to have pestered him about every winter for the past 3 winters. Well this winter I finally did it. Phase II is almost complete, gimme a few more weeks for the rest of my parts to arrive, and I'll post up pics!!!
That single nut sure looks sweet! It is cool that you were able to use the Triumph rear end with almost no mod to bolt on. That is something that the 3rd/4th gen guys certainly can obtain.
You should be able to use any aftermarket wheel that would bolt onto the Triumph. What a nice selection to choose from.
I'm sad I was unable to pull it off without major modification. :angry:
[image: View Post]douglasthecook, on May 21 2009, 02:14 PM, said:
So did you notice any handling difference with the wider rear tire? I had a stock VFR rear axle modified, sent a new one off to SAFE-T, and he knew a machinist that could do the work. It's so good, I can't tell where the stock axle ends, and the new part begins!!! This is something that I seem to have pestered him about every winter for the past 3 winters. Well this winter I finally did it. Phase II is almost complete, gimme a few more weeks for the rest of my parts to arrive, and I'll post up pics!!!
Well, I can't really say that I have, but that doesn't mean much coming from me. I've only ever (in my life) ridden probably 3500 miles, 3k of which is on the 700, so I'm still trying to figure out how to ride these things. I really did notice the front 954 swap though, totally different bike. Maybe sometime down the road I could give a better ride review...
Glad you finally got that axle modified, waiting for the pictures
[image: View Post]sa1713, on May 21 2009, 07:11 PM, said:
You should be able to use any aftermarket wheel that would bolt onto the Triumph.
Now that he had the spindle shortened he can only fit Ducati wheels, but there are more Duc wheels out there than Triumph wheels, so I think he came out ahead.
Some pics of Doug's modified spindle before I boxed it up...
very interesting your modification (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) i want to do the same thing with 929 or 954 forck ( it's correct ?.. ) or front suspension
what problem did you have to resolve ?
do you have the advice for me ?
perhaps i must create a new topic to collect information and advice
The front fork swap is fairly straight foward if you have any mechanical know-how. I believe that if you do a search for "Frankenviffer" you will get alot of results. I have also done the swap, so between the two of us (MrMatt) I'm sure we can get you squared away!
very interesting your modification (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) i want to do the same thing with 929 or 954 forck ( it's correct ?.. ) or front suspension
what problem did you have to resolve ?
do you have the advice for me ?
perhaps i must create a new topic to collect information and advice
The front fork swap is fairly straight foward if you have any mechanical know-how. I believe that if you do a search for "Frankenviffer" you will get alot of results. I have also done the swap, so between the two of us (MrMatt) I'm sure we can get you squared away!
Agree, it was a fairly simple bolt on, just put the VFR controls on the complete 929 or 954 front end (I believe they are the same) and you'll be good. The even use the same size steering head bearings. The three things that you'll have to figure out on the VFR side will be the clip ons clearance with the dashboard, the oil radiator mount, and the inner shroud for the bodywork. If you get some taller clip ons they should be able to clear the gauges (sorry I don't know about this one), the oil radiator can be mounted on the last hole of the fairing stay (I haven't had any wheel clearance issues), and for the inner shroud I trimmed the top of it when it starts to curve in enough to get under the oil hoses. Good luck, don't hesitate to ask any questions, and post some pics when you get it (IMG:style_emoticons/default/fing02.gif)
very interesting your modification (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) i want to do the same thing with 929 or 954 forck ( it's correct ?.. ) or front suspension
what problem did you have to resolve ?
do you have the advice for me ?
perhaps i must create a new topic to collect information and advice
I finally gave in a bought a Speedohealer. The install was super easy, though I did enjoy the disclaimer
'Do not attempt to install the product if you don't have basic mechanical skills.'
Having barely passed this qualification, I plugged it in (right above the fuel pump) (IMG:http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/uploads/1243810095/gallery_12942_4385_372660.jpg) DSC01778.JPG
and put the unit under the passenger seat (IMG:http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/uploads/1243810095/gallery_12942_4385_333229.jpg) DSC01779.JPG
It will calibrate from -100% to +10,000% scale, plenty for what I need. I tested it out by a roadside speed indicator, so far I think around 550% is correct, I'll be fine tuning this over the next few days. I'll recommend the Speedohealer, a bit expensive (just over $100) but it works, is easy to figure out, and looks durable and good quality, but time will tell.
After several months of stagnation (couple of trips mixed in) I pick up my conversion project again I found a left exit system on ebay off of a 3rd gen, wasn't specially listed so I'm pretty sure the person parting the bike out didn't know what he had. Got it for $120 shipped (!)
Step 1: remove center stand by pulling the spring off with a pair of locking plyers Step 1a: bash knuckles on the closest floor/exhaust pipe when plyers slip off Step 1b: curse Step 1c: take dremel and cut spring Step 1d: finish removing center stand
Step 2: take stock system off (felt heaver than the new one, should have weighed them) (IMG:http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/uploads/1252287302/gallery_12942_4385_427439.jpg)
Step 2a: shear two out of three of the rear header bolts (IMG:http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/uploads/1252287302/gallery_12942_4385_18350.jpg)
Step 2b: curse
Step 3: install new system (IMG:style_emoticons/default/fing02.gif) (IMG:http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/uploads/1252371261/gallery_12942_4385_24861.jpg)
I still need to get a taller mid pipe, the one on it is a low exit, and find a carbon fiber muffler (or any lightweight one, any suggestions?)
Now that the exhaust is taken care of, nothing is stopping me from fitting the new bodywork, except that it needs to be trimmed and made to fit. I think I'll have to make a cut out for the side stand, but the exhaust seems to fit above the longer belly pan, the large stock collector used to get in the way. I also picked up a really nice set of dual headlights from aztec8 ($178 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) ), they needed to be spaced apart a little more but it was no problem (IMG:http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/uploads/1252371261/gallery_12942_4385_47808.jpg)
I didn't want to give in and get these, but they're enclosed and should be easy to install, rather than trying to adapt a CBR bracket that was made to mount to the upper fairing instead of the frame. The brackets to mount the lights and gauges will still be tricky though.
I wasn't sure about the low mount mid pipe at first, but now I think it looks good enough to keep it on until I find someone to make a high mount one for me. I made the bracket out of some aluminum bar stock I had around my garage, two bends and two 8mm holes and its done, might do something more elaborate later
I see your bikes looking like mine did over this summer.
I might well be selling on my high level carbon 2bros. can and connector pipe real soon. Looks like i am going to put a 90 degree turn on the exit of this 2bros system im using here. Will put an Arrows carbon can under the seat right exit at some point. Wont be this month tho as there are a few things to tweek as yet. (like battery issues) Have a 520 race swing arm with the rear Dymag all ready to go. But Ill use the standard 530 set up for the road, just clean it up. Am hoping to ride bike to fabricator for exhaust pipe job. Just so i know it works properly first, Ill also be knocking up a temporay exhaust can stay....
(IMG:http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/uploads/1252757238/gallery_5025_556_651850.jpg) september 09
Got the Vortex clip ons installed, then realized one was upside down. Had to get the triple off again and make it right. I'm still working on making the wiring the right length, learned it's best to take the battery out BEFORE cutting wires to the fuse box.
Problems I'm still thinking about:
Ground clearance - have about 4" as it sits now, I can maybe get another inch but will have to hack up the belly a lot more. I also like how well it fits around the front tire, moving it up will just separate it visually (may not be significant though)
Oil Radiator - not sure if there is room above the fender how it was before, would like to put it below the main radiator but the PAIR system is in the way (may get rid of it too before I'm 'done')
Headlights - bracket I made works perfectly but need to get some sort of rubber gasket that will fill in around the fairing and headlight domes. Visually I think it is fine but the gap would let in lots of bugs, etc so I'd like to seal it off
Fuse box - not sure how to mount it, I know where but want something better than a bunch of zip ties
Get yourself a little radiant propane heater that mounts on a BBQ gas bottle, they make a world of difference in a small garage, and they're relatively inexpensive. Keep up your progress! :fing02:
I am thinking of doing this body conversion to my 1993 which will be a track only bike but it still needs to fit properly to be safe. It looks like you have to raise the fairing up not only for the ground clearance but also for the brake resevoir. Is this true?
Also, do you think it would be possible/feasible to split the lower cowl into a left and right side once you were able to get everything fitted?
I am thinking of doing this body conversion to my 1993 which will be a track only bike but it still needs to fit properly to be safe. It looks like you have to raise the fairing up not only for the ground clearance but also for the brake resevoir. Is this true?
Also, do you think it would be possible/feasible to split the lower cowl into a left and right side once you were able to get everything fitted?
I am still in debate over that, it is above the distance the forks can compress but not much. To raise it I will have to remove the whole belly to go around the exhaust. For the upper I think my Vortex clip ons lowered the brake reservoir enough, also the mirror braces will push up the ends of the fairing to be 12" from the corner (below the handle bars) and give me more room.
I think it would be possible to split the lower, but then you'll have to come up with a way of fastening them all together, I'm going to try to make it just the belly and upper and it shouldn't be that hard to take off for maintenance.
Good luck, get some pictures, which body are you thinking of?
I found someone on the ebays that makes block off plates for a Hayabusa for $20, which work perfectly for the VFR. Now you say, why did you not make them with your mill and save $20? Well, I probably could and should have, guess I was just lazy this time.
Getting the rear pipes out was a real pain though, had to drop the tail to reach in to unscrew it, and then bend them all up trying to get it out, I didn't want to take the rear shock out too.
Well, I kind of started over with the project and got a different 4th gen so I could have one to ride and one to build, and working on a different bike project all together, and getting engaged, so I haven't been able to work on this one lately. But I have been improving my skills of grafting new subframes to different bikes :ph34r: (I'll have some pics soon on a different thread)
I'm hoping to get some projects out of the way so I can continue, I started a second thread for the build up of the bike here, so I might combine the two threads, not sure.
But I haven't forgotten!! Soon I shall triumph and have an awesome street bike!!
Heya guys, Have recently joined the forums and have just come across this project- looks great!
Here's a couple pics of my modded 3rd Gen RC36 which although not as in depth as the project in this post has still come together nicely-details can be found HERE if any of the alterations to my bike are of help to anyone.
Good luck with your project. If you haven't seen it, there's a Euro rider who did a 4gen/RC45 conversion complete with OEM style paint several years ago. It looks fantastic. I think he used a 45 tank (they grow on trees ya' know) and upgraded both the front/rear suspensions to complete the look. :laugh:
[image: rvf750rr.jpg]
Compared with the real deal:
[image: rvfsamen1.jpg]
[image: Zijkantklein.jpg]
THAT is amazing. I would want to do this, but I really would need the thread from this guy if he ever had one. No need to reinvent the wheel here...
You should be able to use any aftermarket wheel that would bolt onto the Triumph.
Now that he had the spindle shortened he can only fit Ducati wheels, but there are more Duc wheels out there than Triumph wheels, so I think he came out ahead.
Some pics of Doug's modified spindle before I boxed it up...
[image: gallery_654_4563_205138.jpg]
PICT3153.JPG
Was taking a look back through this thread. Did you remake those four drive pins? They look much pointier than the ones I have. And they came with allen head bolts on the back, not hex head.
OEM are simple hex head bolts. RC30 pins are available separately, so if they are a standard diameter, not sure why they would not have been used. When I got my NR rear wheel mount made I discovered that the NR's drive pins were a different diameter--and not available separately, of course. Rick Oliver (in the UK) managed to get a set made for me, though.
Single nut rear wheel can be achieved by combining a VFR400 hub assembly (fits into the 4th Gen SSS)...
Old thread, but had to correct this.
An NC30 or NC35 hub is indeed the same diameter as for the RC36 but the NC hubs are 10mm narrower.
If anyone knows how to make that work, please let me know. I've even contemplated cutting the 400 hub and inserting a spacing ring and welding it all back together. Otherwise, anyone got a spare RC30 hub and axle?
An NC30 or NC35 hub is indeed the same diameter as for the RC36 but the NC hubs are 10mm narrower.
If anyone knows how to make that work, please let me know. I've even contemplated cutting the 400 hub and inserting a spacing ring and welding it all back together. Otherwise, anyone got a spare RC30 hub and axle?
nt650/bros spindle works fine with rc36 hub. But is needs drive pins moved for nc/rc/Duc pattern fitment...... pic has afew other goodies.....
Not a bike sold here in the UK (I don't think) so I'm not familiar with it, but it would appear to use the exact same hub as the VFR750, but it also has the single nut fixing. Shame that Honda decided to use a different drive pin PCD (deliberate I wonder?), but great info. Thanks.
Just need to locate a couple here in the UK though. If anyone over in the US has one spare and would be prepared to organise shipping, please let me know.
Isn't it the same as the "Bros", a popular grey import from Japan, "back in the day"? There are both 400cc and 650cc version of the Bros out there...many in bits, I imagine! Complete rear ends seem to be going for £100-150...
So if I understand you correctly, a Honda Hawk/NT650 rear axle will work for the VFR 750, just need to drill a different pattern for the drive pins?
Yes, and no.... drill the drive pins to pattern, but the axle is shorter so you need the smaller nt650/bros cush drive as well. Rotor is smaller diameter, and also has different bolt pattern, so easiest to get the nt/bro's one and caliper hanger. Bros parts are cheap as chips in the UK, i think......
Summary, Axle with drive pins moved, Cush Drive, rotor and caliper hanger all from the nt/bros = bobs your uncle :) add nc30/35/ducati wheel (Duc wheel will need 2.5mm spacer to make up for the offset, goes between wheel and axle).
Bike's looking really good, put some more brakes on it before you ride though:), have you gotten all your fairing mounting points figured out? Also, what rearsets did you find there?
I gotta stop reading these threads,i've always liked the single nut look better than the 4,RC30 fairings,single endurance style light.....nice to see someone follow through
End of thread · 131 posts recoveredWayback Machine snapshot 21 Feb 2020
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