First timer on these boards, please be kind as I jump back into building a bike and riding. I joined up because I found a 1992 VFR750F leaning on the side of a friend's garage. Not the worst shape I've seen for a bike, but nowhere near great. I'm looking forward to giving it a new life with me. I've not ridden for many years, but couldn't pass up the "just take it" deal I got. The keys it came with don't fit anything on it, so I'm starting there. Once I get them, I can pop the seat and start to see what they thought they were doing with the carbs. I'm giving myself an arbitrary timeline. I'd like to ride it by next spring, even if it isn't completely finished.
Good luck with yor project; looks like you've got most if not all of the body panels so that is a great start. I'm guessing from the registration sticker on the fork that this hasn't been roadworthy for 12 years or so? If so you will be getting very familiar with the carbs, tank and fuel system but there's plenty of experience around here.
Always glad to see a 3rd gen rescued - there are getting to be very few about. Check the plastics carefully for cracks or other issues and be kind to them - essentially impossible to find. Plastfix can repair cracked or broken tabs - youtube has diy vids on the subject. Once you get the gas cap open, see what's going on inside - bad gas will be a project - rust in the tank an even bigger one. Keep us updated.
12 years ago could mean no ethanol in the fuel and thus - fingers crossed- the carbs might just be ok....
Just refurbished a 750 that stood idle for 5 years (fuel w/o ethanol) and with fresh feule and filter she runs great. same with a 5th gen fi, no problemo.
no keys....... One you can unkook the seat unsing a bendy coat hanger, you ccan remove the lock cilinder and read the key code of it..
Congrats on scoring a free VFR and welcome to the forum!! 🙂
Tons of great information and people here, many with a passion for working on their machines. You might even find folks willing to give you a hand or send you something you need to complete your VFR. Have fun and good luck with it!
Wow... thanks for the welcome. Right now, it's mostly complete so I got lucky there.
I have a bendy coat hanger... will investigate seat removal.
I mentioned the carbs because there appear to be rags in the intake... maybe that means they were trying to be nice to it and keep it clean? Of course, it could have attracted rodents, too. I just hope I don't have to tear the entire engine down to clean it inside an out.
It's gorgeous. You're making a joke about buffing up, but it really can be brought back to life. We can't tell much from the pictures you've posted so far but it should have plenty of potential. Your back wheel alone is catnip to lots of folks around here. Don't throw out anything. Well, maybe old tires and filters... You might have trouble finding bits you think need to be replaced. And many of those old bits can be rejuvenated. Your concern about tearing down the engine are well founded but you'll learn that major engine issues are not typical even for a neglected vfr. It's a Honda! 😉 With luck and a little patience you might end up with a great ride.
The guys here have been helping me for a couple years now. They still are. Keep us posted.
Found a coat hanger and was able to hook the latch for the seat. Keys are on order. The layers of... stuff... though... I really didn't want to pull the engine for cleaning, but I might just be easier to get it out at a good working height to get all the nooks and crannies... I guess that will make it easier to work on the frame clean up too.
It's not all doom and gloom, the tool set is intact!
Wow - I've never seen anything quite like that. The filth seems to have gotten in to the carb bores - crazy. Was it in a flood? Definitely don't want any of that getting in to the motor. I seem to recall someone removing a 3rd gen motor by laying the bike on its side then once unbolted lifting the frame off. This is going to be an interesting rescue. How does the inside of the tank look?
How did you order keys?
Is there a key-code somewhere that you can send to dealers and they cut matching key?
Found a guy on eBay. We chatted back and forth a bit. He said no problem. We’ll see if the keys work. I just provided year, make, model and cylinder code. This obviously won’t work if you have HISS as you’ll need a matched key and ECU.
Not sure about the linking policies on this forum, so mods can remove if not allowed.
You can jump the ignition out at the harness connector if you want to save the effort of drilling it out. But you seem to be a long way from worrying about the key working. Good luck. I'd be real curious how much of that dirt got it's way into the engine.
Did you check the oil? Is that dirty with dirt too?
I think the first thing that I would do is get a shop vac and suck as much dirt out of the carbs, and intake ports as possible. I wouldn't even try and turn the crank until as much dirt as possible is pulled from the intake ports and any open intake valves.
I think the first thing that I would do is get a shop vac and suck as much dirt out of the carbs, and intake ports as possible. I wouldn't even try and turn the crank until as much dirt as possible is pulled from the intake ports and any open intake valves.
No doubt. Working on a slow tear down and then cleaning. Shopvac and an air compressor will do wonders.
Did you check the oil? Is that dirty with dirt too?
Oil looks clean, just smells a bit... stale? Not burnt though. If it hasn’t run since ‘08, I won’t know about gaskets until I run it. But, that’s a long ways off.
Nice. Looks like you've got an ultra-rare un-cut rear fender, the unobtanium seat cowl, a Sargent seat (with the '90s-spec purple "piping"), most if not all of the original fairings and the original exhaust!
The paint color, by the way, is called "Granite Blue Metallic", code PB-184M. (Most people think it's black.) Have fun.
Joe @ V4dreams.com has nearly all the information you’ll need about stripping the carbs and much more
Yeah, Joe has some good parts for rebuilding those carbs, great resource. Sounds like you've got it handled, good luck. I took a 93 in almost as bad shape and it's maybe my favorite runner now. Took a little work but they come back to life amazingly, well worth the effort.
Looks like you've got an ultra-rare un-cut rear fender
Let's hope it's just about an inch of sawdust. I'm not getting a flooded out vibe from your pictures. I hope not. But no matter. There's a great renovation story of a flooded 3rd generation bike in the forum. If you get daunted, look at bdouvill's write up from the south of France.
Meanwhile, if you're tempted to cut the rear fender down for a more contemporary look, you might think of scrounging a cut one off Ebay. They're around for not much money. As JZH says, the uncut fenders are non-existent. You can put yours on a shelf. Ya never know when it'll turn to gold. Just a thought.
You guys are great! The carbs look clean. Got an air compressor today just to clean all this off. Past the butterfly, the cards are spotless. Looks like it was just dust and saw dust.
I had thought that since it was sitting for 12 years, it probably needs new seals everywhere... perhaps not? I mean, the oil was clean, the coolant was clean... no leaks... I'll think about it while I try to find the airbox.
I had thought that since it was sitting for 12 years, it probably needs new seals everywhere... perhaps not? I mean, the oil was clean, the coolant was clean... no leaks... I'll think about it while I try to find the airbox.
No cleaning suggestions from me. My standards are pretty modest compared to a lot of guys in here. But it looks like you're pretty serious about doing this right. SInce you have the gauge cluster apart, you might consider getting LEDs for in there. They're pretty cheap these days, and much brighter than the original lamps.
You've already heard about not worrying much about leaks. That seems right to me. The only leak I've found is at the clutch slave. That one is common enough. But it's relatively easy to access. You'd be able to replace the seal any time...
You should seriously check out the blog posts and how-to's at v4dreams.com He does a great job at restorations and has some very good tips for saving plastics and other original parts.
I go just to see what the guy is up to every week.
Good news! Found an air box and base plate on eBay. While I wait for delivery... more cleaning.
What have you all used to restore plastics?
I had good luck restoring the plastics on my ZX7R I redid with smearing everything that was black plastic with vaseline and letting them sit for 3 days and then buffing the parts out. I got that idea from Iconic Motorbikes on their website as a restoration tip.
http://v4dreams.com/maintenance.html, never seen this site before and plenty of excellent reading, love the removal of the footpegs and may try and locate a second hand pair to play around with so I can keep my originals
Putting on the base plate for the air box is a bit of a bear! But I hooked up to a battery today and heard the motor turn over! All the electronics seem to check out.
It sounded good. Just need to keep pushing along and find all my missing pieces.
without the air box and filter they usually run too lean for good performance.
It was just an operational check. Making sure the starter and electronics were working.
The air box arrived. Of course, it’s missing a hose connector. I’m modeling and 3D printing a new one. Should be done modeling, printing and in-hand by tomorrow evening.
It was just an operational check. Making sure the starter and electronics were working.
The air box arrived. Of course, it’s missing a hose connector. I’m modeling and 3D printing a new one. Should be done modeling, printing and in-hand by tomorrow evening.
Those two hose connectors attach to the PAIR system. Most people remove it and plug those connectors. From the pictures that you have posted, it is hard to tell the PAIR system has been removed from your bike.
Putting on the base plate for the air box is a bit of a bear! But I hooked up to a battery today and heard the motor turn over! All the electronics seem to check out.
It sounded good. Just need to keep pushing along and find all my missing pieces.
Hello fellow VFRists,
What the he... is that fuel warning light on the dash? Is that specific to US models? I don't think mine has one...
@damionj keep up the good work, this bike is worth it. I enjoy mine anytime I ride it even if it deserves some upgrades I cannot afford right now 😉
You're not missing much. I think I prefer the old fashioned reserve switch...which we don't get. My fuel gauge is so finicky, the light comes on when I have about 2 gallons left in the tank. So I've learned to just keep an eye on the trip odometer which I reset at every fill up.
You're not missing much. I think I prefer the old fashioned reserve switch...which we don't get. My fuel gauge is so finicky, the light comes on when I have about 2 gallons left in the tank. So I've learned to just keep an eye on the trip odometer which I reset at every fill up.
I did not realize that was replacing the reserve manual switch. Having to switch to reserve while driving always happens at the worst time, so I try to stay away from that as much as I can. I try to refill when I reach 150 km on the odometer because so far, I have only rode it around town or near town so no exceptional gas mileage.
I did not realize that was replacing the reserve manual switch. Having to switch to reserve while driving always happens at the worst time, so I try to stay away from that as much as I can. I try to refill when I reach 150 km on the odometer because so far, I have only rode it around town or near town so no exceptional gas mileage.
I'm pretty sure the switch assembly can be installed on American bikes without much trouble. If you wanted the light....mmmmmm, not sure it'd be so easy. Besides replacing your odometer gauge, you'd need a sensor somewhere. I wonder if your bike is pre-wired for that. JZH or one of the knowledgeable guys might have an idea. But it sounds as if you have a perfectly good way to avoid problems anyway 🙂
They are separate systems. You can have both a reserve switch and a low fuel light, but you need a bunch of parts from the US model, e.g., the fuel tank sender and the tachometer. Other than that, I think I just had to change the 2P connector for a 3P connector and add one wire. I happened to have a US model in parts, so it was easy to combine the two. Here's the two senders (US-spec on top):
They are separate systems. You can have both a reserve switch and a low fuel light, but you need a bunch of parts from the US model, e.g., the fuel tank sender and the tachometer. Other than that, I think I just had to change the 2P connector for a 3P connector and add one wire. I happened to have a US model in parts, so it was easy to combine the two. Here's the two senders (US-spec on top):
Found a coat hanger and was able to hook the latch for the seat. Keys are on order. The layers of... stuff... though... I really didn't want to pull the engine for cleaning, but I might just be easier to get it out at a good working height to get all the nooks and crannies... I guess that will make it easier to work on the frame clean up too.
It's not all doom and gloom, the tool set is intact!
Finally drilled out the lock on the tank. Old gas smell is no fun. Looks like tanks aren’t all that expensive on eBay. I think a replacement is in order. I don’t feel like trying to get the tank clean.
You need a tank, you going to make a mismatched "Frankenstein" bike? My 91 was that way until a friend shamed me into painting it. Its a 91 but was bought with 92 livery colour. My 93 was bought with a tank like yours, they installed a new pet cock thinking that would solve their problems I guess (it did'nt) it did save the bike from any use which was a good thing. I bought it with 15,000 miles as a rolling bike that turned over, thats all I knew. I got a replacement gas tank fairly quickly for it on Ebay and used it for years. I ended up buying a another tank on Ebay as it was way nice without a hideous dent that looked real ugly. So, my 93 is on its 3rd tank LOL crazy chit. There are alot of tanks out there you wont have a problem, I am holding on to my old white one for what ever reason (there was someone that sold me a used Penske shock to these style bikes years ago off CL, I called his number because I wanted to buy his rolling parts bike, number was out of order, I am trying to replay the tape in my head to find the warehouse district he worked out. Anyway, PEaCe and happy wrenching/riding.
You need a tank, you going to make a mismatched "Frankenstein" bike?
I have no problems with a frankenstein bike. I'll probably keep this tank to play with de-rust options, but buy a refurbished off ebay. They aren't than expensive. Once I get a nice running bike (I also was "given" a rolling bike that turned over) I'm get all the plastics and the tank fixed up so it looks good. I haven't decided on a color scheme, yet, but that's a ways off.
After what seems like forever, I have uncovered this project and am ready to continue. I pulled all the parts out of the box and tried to remember where I left off.
First up is tank rust removal. I’m going to give electrolysis a try to see if I can keep the original fuel tank.
Hopefully I can get that set up in the next day or two.
Good luck with the tank. The sad part about that is that it's completely avoidable. With the tank empty on my '99, it looks factory new inside. Non-ethanol fuel, Stabil and a change of fuel before winter has prevented the rusting issues.
Good luck with the tank. The sad part about that is that it's completely avoidable. With the tank empty on my '99, it looks factory new inside. Non-ethanol fuel, Stabil and a change of fuel before winter has prevented the rusting issues.
I'm just hoping I don't end up with a swiss cheese tank full of pin holes.
Today I had proof of life! First I tried to feed some fuel through the carbs and get it to fire. The fuel pump works fine and fuel got to the carbs with no problem, but staring was a no go. The first bowl over flowed and I think the floats are all stuck... so I'm going to have to pull the carbs and take a look.
Grabbed a can of starter fluid. Before I really got into the carbs, I wanted to know if the engine would fire. Sure enough... it did! It started right up on the first try just tapping the starter. She wants to run. Hearing it even only for a brief moment was fantastic!
So, the next step... deciding if I want to have the carbs rebuilt or take on the task myself. I've done carbs for race cars and lawn mowers... so this shouldn't be too bad. We'll see... I've got a couple leads on having the carbs rebuilt (some from this forum!).
(I still haven't touched the rust in the tank yet.)
Picked up a Kreem liner kit for the tank today. Thought I’d help out and run some electrolysis for a bit first. This is what it looked like seconds after I turned on the power supply.
That stuff is junk most of the time. Better option is the POR-15 kit. Otherwise, see my earlier post.
Congrats on having it fire over. I've you've been in one carb you've been through them all. Just make sure all the passages and jets are clear and there isn't leftover residue on the needle and stuff. Don't forget to clean the choke assembly. Can always bench test to make sure there aren't any leaks. Just don't break the carbs out individually. Keep them together.
Just don't break the carbs out individually. Keep them together.
Oh yeah… gonna keep them together.
I’ve heard / read both ways on Kreem vs POR. I’m tempted to not use the liner and just rinse with 2-cycle oil and a little gas after the acid. The inside of the tank looked to be in pretty bad shape, so we’ll see if it’s even salvageable first.
After 16 hours of electrolysis, I can see the bottom of the tank! I couldn’t resist dumping and taking a look. I remixed my solution and dumped in a dress 5 gallons. Added another anode to increase surface area.
Science is fun!
Also got the carbs off and will start that cleaning. Time to fire up the ultrasonic.
Spent yesterday and today doing carb work. Got it all back together and couldn’t wait until tomorrow to get it back on the bike, now affectionately know as “Vera”.
I am beyond ecstatic. To hear her purr even for a moment on the dribble of fuel I gave her…
The progress these past few days has been amazing. Just wish electrolysis on the tank wouldn’t take so long. It sits there mocking me.
I've done numerous tanks using this method with good luck. Keep at it and be patient - it will clean up nicely.
Now that the bulk of the rust is out, I’m switching to a full immersion tank. With the tank submerged upside down, it should get the underside of the top.
patience is not my strong quality, but I’m learning.