6th Gen - Blue Connector Ground Fix - How To.

[image: IMG_5314_3_1.jpg]

My good buddy out on the left coast of Canada, Mookiethemagnificent - phew thats a mouthful - bought a VFR on my suggestion, and recently had some battery/electrical gremlins to sort out.

Being as I'm not there to help him - I figured I could show him how to fix or pre-empt the blue connector ground connection issue AND pre-empt the problem on my own bike.

Here's a quick summary of what I did. (As luck would have it my soldering iron decided it was too hot out to work properly, so instead of soldering the connections, they are hard crimped, and then electric tape covered.)

First thing - locate the blue connector under the left side fairing, hidden inside a crappy little plastic cover.

Locte the green wires on both sides of the connector. These are the wires you need to work with. The goal is to create an additional path ACROSS the blue connector - as well as create an additional ground location for these wires.

I used a knife to carefully shave off a small (1 cm) length of green sheathing from each green wire - on each side of the blue connector.

[image: IMG_5307.jpg]

Next - I needed to find a secondary ground location to attach the soon to be created "jumper" wire. Found the 8 mm bolt that attached to the frame - just under the left of the gas tank. With that located, I needed to create the jumper wire. HEre's what I made:

[image: IMG_5313_2_1.jpg]

Wire is 14 gauge, and has a ring terminal crimped onto the end to attach to the frame near the left side of the gas tank. I stripped out a small section of sheathing to make the contact with the aft side of the blue connector (green wire) and the end piece to connect to the forward green wire.

Next - I used some crimp connectors to attach the white Jumper wire to the already exposed copper inside the green wires. Its basic stuff - but it worked great:

[image: IMG_5314_3_1.jpg]

Once I was sure that the connections were super tight - I wrapped them in electric tape, double layers. All thats left in the process is to put the fairing back on.

HOpe this helps explain how this fix can be accomplished with basic tools, and minimal expense. Might have been a $2.00 fix.

It is not a difficult task to complete - and even if your blue connector with green wires isn't "bad" why wait till it goes bad and strands you?

Hey KKKen,

Cool fix for the blue connector. Just curious if you also ended up doing anything with the yellow 'master' ground block (mentioned in your BLUE CONNECTOR thread) as well.....

I just finished upgrading my electrical wiring today, but haven't done any voltage testing yet to see what things are running like. BIke was not having any problems and no heat indications on the 30A fuse.

My connectors all looked remarkably good, with only a slight bit of oxidation on the odd terminal. I inpected, scruffed these fresh and put dielectric grease in everything.

On my connections and splices, I used buttonhook or but joints that were soldered, painted with brush on electrical tape (I love this stuff!), then heat shrinked and / or electrical taped.

Will post my findings and some pictures in another thread when I have time.....

Just thought I would inquire about the yellow ground block, since I have done nothing with mine yet. I'm waiting until I install my auxillary fuse block (I wanted to wait on this and do some testing with just the regular harness upgrades first), then I will rip apart the nose end of the bike to do some other mods (rewire heated grips and install Stebel.)

P.S. Did your Stebel come with much for instructions? Not sure how to wire my relay yet.

It seems to me that the only side that needs beefing up is grounding the front harness (left connector in the picture), since it seems that all (most of?) the failures have been to parts that are hooked up to the front harness, i.e. front lights, turn signal relay, and bank sensor/engine stop/fuel relay.

I have a single Posi-Tap from the front harness green wire to ground, and that's it. The back end will just use the standard ground.

Q-DawgHey KKKen,

Cool fix for the blue connector. Just curious if you also ended up doing anything with the yellow 'master' ground block (mentioned in your BLUE CONNECTOR thread) as well.....

I just finished upgrading my electrical wiring today, but haven't done any voltage testing yet to see what things are running like. BIke was not having any problems and no heat indications on the 30A fuse.

My connectors all looked remarkably good, with only a slight bit of oxidation on the odd terminal. I inpected, scruffed these fresh and put dielectric grease in everything.

On my connections and splices, I used buttonhook or but joints that were soldered, painted with brush on electrical tape (I love this stuff!), then heat shrinked and / or electrical taped.

Will post my findings and some pictures in another thread when I have time.....

Just thought I would inquire about the yellow ground block, since I have done nothing with mine yet. I'm waiting until I install my auxillary fuse block (I wanted to wait on this and do some testing with just the regular harness upgrades first), then I will rip apart the nose end of the bike to do some other mods (rewire heated grips and install Stebel.)

P.S. Did your Stebel come with much for instructions? Not sure how to wire my relay yet.

QDawg, i haven't stripped the electrical tape off my bikes wiring harness to get at that yellow junction block. So far my bikes been ok - and the blue connector mod - and the RR Monitor Wire "fix" are what I"ve done to premptively avoid the hassles others have sufferred.

As for wiring your relay - I'll see what I can find for you. It isn't that difficult. Back in a bit. :thumbsup:

EDIT _ go here - it'll layout where you need to connect things!!

http://www.ado13.com/techs/relay.htm

[image: relaywire.jpg]

Thanks for the wiring diagram.

My bike is running pretty well with all the mods, but I discovered my left turn signal is blinking fast.

Hope it is just a burnt bulb.

Didn't have time to check today when I got back from my ride: there was a storm rolling in and I wanted to get the bike and cages into the garage in case it hailed. No room to get at the bike now until it passes.

Thank you, Thank you, Thank you.

This article saved me hundreds of dollars of diagnostics at the shop.

I had no lights, blickers were affecting the fuel pump, etc....

MB

casualfornowThank you, Thank you, Thank you.

This article saved me hundreds of dollars of diagnostics at the shop.

I had no lights, blickers were affecting the fuel pump, etc....

MB

Cool - I guess its running better now? smile.gif :thumbsup:

Just so I'm 100% positive on this fix. It's the blue connector but the green colored wire is the ground circuit Honda uses - correct?

Pete McCraryJust so I'm 100% positive on this fix. It's the blue connector but the green colored wire is the ground circuit Honda uses - correct?

Yes, that's why we have pictures too! :unsure:

Cut me some slack Bailey, I'm old and color blind.

Pete McCraryCut me some slack Bailey, I'm old and color blind.

Well be careful then because there's a gray multi pin connector right next to the blue one. +1.gif

I'm old too! :thumbsup:

I appreciate the help, this thing is just frustrating. I will see about it this weekend.

Guy's is this the fix for the Honda recal? I talked to the dealer and they told me they were going to install a new front wire harness? I'd rather just do this fix and not have the hassle of bringing the bike back. Is there anything else with the front harness?

Well, so far I haven't heard of any front wiring harness problems (buzzing, no headlights, etc) from those of us who had the recall performed. Discoloration of the 30 amp fuse wiring is another story... :biggrin:

SomefunGuy's is this the fix for the Honda recall? I talked to the dealer and they told me they were going to install a new front wire harness? I'd rather just do this fix and not have the hassle of bringing the bike back. Is there anything else with the front harness?

I'm not 100% sure if the blue connector ground wire mod completely eliminates the need for the front wiring harness replacement, but with the new recall front harness, the ground wiring for the headlights is now routed to the right side of the bike and is tapped into the RR wiring instead of going through the blue connector.

No harm getting the Recall harness put in. I should have mine done sometime....

I finished installing the VFRness and was going to do the Blue Connector ground fix. When I checked the blue connector, there is the green wire on one side and not the other. Am I looking at the right blue connector?

Steve

Correct.

RivcykoCorrect.

Shouldn't there be a green wire on both sides?

Thanks,

Steve

What, color blind? LOL. Just follow the green wire. Lower right- most wire. (from your pic). That's the one you want.

danterini18

RivcykoCorrect.

Shouldn't there be a green wire on both sides?

Thanks,

Steve

The recall schematic shows one of the grounds no longer routed into the blue connector, that spot is empty.

[image: zrecallblue.jpg]

RivcykoWhat, color blind? LOL. Just follow the green wire. Lower right- most wire. (from your pic). That's the one you want.

Please forgive, LOWER LEFT- most.

VFOr

danterini18

RivcykoCorrect.

Shouldn't there be a green wire on both sides?

Thanks,

Steve

The recall schematic shows one of the grounds no longer routed into the blue connector, that spot is empty.

Perhaps, (Not like the schematics, have ever been wrong). +1.gif

BUT,...I see a green wire in the pic.

I emailed Tightwad and it seems the recall addressed this issue. So I guess that is why only one green wire in and none on the other side. The recall must have installed the tan connector below it and solved the issue...I hope.

Thanks,

Steve

Yea, the green wire on the front side of the blue connector is missing if you've had the recall performed. I think I mentioned that in my post above... +1.gif

This post was great back in July 07, but since then hasn't the factory totally made up for it with the safety recall and free fix or replacement? If your bike hasn't been fixed by now by the dealer, don't waste your time doing it on your own. Get the to nearest dealer and have it fixed for free.

Edit: I should add that if your not aware of any repair relevant to the recall have been made, you can look for the punch mark near the VIN on the right side of the frame. If the dealer has done the fix, they are required to make a punch mark 10mm below and 10mm left of the letter J.

why is this mod neccessary, sorry new here guys. and what about the RR mod ??????

DANO

why is this mod neccessary, sorry new here guys. and what about the RR mod ??????

I'm also new here but one of the earlier posts mention "I had no lights, blinkers were affecting the fuel pump, etc...."

I guess the front harness had a poor earth through the blue connector but Honda has subsequently had a recall and fixed the problem by replacing the front wiring loom. :fing02:

QtrHorse

DANO

why is this mod neccessary, sorry new here guys. and what about the RR mod ??????

I'm also new here but one of the earlier posts mention "I had no lights, blinkers were affecting the fuel pump, etc...."

I guess the front harness had a poor earth through the blue connector but Honda has subsequently had a recall and fixed the problem by replacing the front wiring loom. :fing02:

At the time of my "fix the blue connector ground wire" post - there were a ton of guys having trouble with the electrical on the front end - lights working intermittently, gauges going out, etc.. At the time I posted this - this topic was very "Current" so I'll take the ownership of missing the prelude for the "WHY DO THIS".

I believe that if you have the green ground wires going into the connector and coming out of the mate to it - do this mod - it'll save you some aggravation.

:fing02:

danterini18

RivcykoCorrect.

Shouldn't there be a green wire on both sides?

Thanks,

Steve

Yes, if your bike has the original Main & Front Sub harness than it WILL have green wires on both sides as that is the Original ground point.

NO, if you've had the Harness Recall done as Honda has found another way to ground the front harness and the Front Sub Recall harness no longer has the Green ground wire running thru/to the blue connector.

BR

PS I did this fix years ago and still haven't had it done by a Dealer yet. :blush:

Just wanted to give a huge thank you to the original poster and everyone else who added to this thread. Bike shit the bed in somewhere, Indiana last night and thanks to this thread I was able to rip her apart and get her running again. My recall has not been done (story for another time) and this fix did the trick.

JoeQ

Just wanted to give a huge thank you to the original poster and everyone else who added to this thread. Bike shit the bed in somewhere, Indiana last night and thanks to this thread I was able to rip her apart and get her running again. My recall has not been done (story for another time) and this fix did the trick.

Awesome! That how's it suppose to work! :fing02:

I had been following the issue for a year or two and when mine did it in my garage it only took 30 min. to fix it and still make my ride!

:bliss:

Is there a similar weak ground in the 5th gen? If so do any of you know where I might look for it? My fuel pump is not working!

my uk bike does't have this mod. ive got the problem of buzzing sound no lights and the engine has been cutting out. the yellow block is melted and ive oredered a replacement front harness. if i do the blue connector mob will it fix the problem for me

NathanStubbyStratford

my uk bike does't have this mod. ive got the problem of buzzing sound no lights and the engine has been cutting out. the yellow block is melted and ive oredered a replacement front harness. if i do the blue connector mob will it fix the problem for me

In most cases this Mod will fix the issue, but probably not if your grounding block is melted.

backonabike

Is there a similar weak ground in the 5th gen? If so do any of you know where I might look for it? My fuel pump is not working!

Not really like the 6th gens!

Check the Tip Over sensor or Kill Switch first.

i got a replacment harnes. but out out curiosity could the all the green wire in the yellow block be soldered together if the yellow block is an earthing block.

Adding to my post above. Could i add another earth/ground point to the soldered green wires of the yellow block as well as doing the blue connector earth/ground mod.

WELL ive done the blue connector mod and i also cut the yellow melted block off soldered all the wires together and then soldered a ground wire and fixed it to the frame. the bike starts and run. lets see if this fixes the problem.

Not sure if this is where my problem lies cuz the symptoms are different and my bike's an '06 but here goes....

Was at NJMP for the AMA teaching/track event this weekend and couldn't complete it cuz after 3 sessions I started having intermittent problems at 6700 rpms. Acted like a coil pack or 2 went out. Starts and idles fine. No lights on the dash. Won't rev past 6700 though. By the end of the first day it was cutting back so severely that it was dangerous to commit to a turn in cuz the power chop would change the radius on my apex. Not sure where to start looking...

Loaded up and sacrificed my 2nd day of training and lots of $$$

HELP !!!!!!

ps Tried to contact Dan at A&A to no avail cuz as most of you know mine was the prototype 6th gen he used for the supercharger guinea pig.

Check your voltage at the battery and then check it running and check the voltage at 5000 rpm .

First sign that my stator was failing was a weird miss.

Thanx Switch. Somewhere to start. I'll report back on findings

I'm sure you checked this but check your 30amp fuse as well. It killed my bike and looked burnt on my recent trip to N.S. it got me home by replacing the fuse (I was 4 days north).

Anyway, good luck. Hopefully its just a fuse and you can still get the 2nd day in.

13.24 volts at the battery off

14.48 volts at idle

14.49 volts at 5000 rpm

good or bad ?

Thats good .

When's the last time you check the air filter?

If the filter good and since this bike was used to supercharge I would pull the plugs next.

Two things to check for on the plugs.

1. Make sure they are right one's, because sometimes they run a colder plug.

2. Electro is wore out and the gap will be wrong .

to add;

I just went out and held 5k and blipped to 9k 4x

beautiful harmonious tune

no break up of any kind

but also not under any load

the 30amp fuse and holder are in factory condition. no discoloration

Check the plugs.

shoulda mentioned I swapped the plugs after it failed in the 4th session.

do the coil packs fail inherently or is that not likely?

heat seems to make a difference too.

spinrb8r

shoulda mentioned I swapped the plugs after it failed in the 4th session.

do the coil packs fail inherently or is that not likely?

heat seems to make a difference too.

No not normal but your bike has been experiment on so that is possible.

What did the old plugs look like ? Normal ?

Does it have a PCM fuel controller ?

Hey "spin" that's also your VTEC engagement point something could wrong with VTEC.

my vtec comes in at 5800

the power commander is disconnected and made it worse.

breaks up at 6400 without the pcIII plugged in

Pull the panels off and start looking at the connectors.

What year did gen 6 start ?

2002 .

I had the exact same issue with my VFR. The low beam relay was making a wierd noise, the bike would not keep running without my thumb on the starter switch, and if I used my indicators or high beams it would kill the bike off completely.

Hi Guys, I am hoping this may help some of you who are struggling. I have got a 2003 VFR 800 Vtec (non ABS).

I did something similar to Kanadian Ken, instead of bypassing the earth at the two ends of the connectors, I cut the ground cable (green at the back of the relay) and joined it with the blue block (the left hand part), it got the bike to keep running and everything was working fine from then on.

I was fortunate enough to have a friend come over and check the bike out for me, luckily he knew a lot more about bikes than I do. We took the nose off of the bike (really easy, theres like 4 bolts), we disconnected the front wiring loom, and checked resistance on the loom, it was reading 63.7 ohms!

Within that front loom, there is a yellow terminal block that has about 16 green cables in there, what I had found was that on the terminal block where the main earth cable comes from the main loom, it had burnt. I rang Honda to enquire about any outstanding recalls on the bike, they said there weren't any, guess they lied.

Any how, to resolve the issue, cut all of the cables from the yellow terminal block and solder the cables together, then simply wrap it back up in the loom. The yellow block loops the cables back round to the main loom anyway, as there is a thin metal strip thing the over side, that just terminates the connections, I also noticed that this was quite gunky, it was obvious that the block had got damp, then got hot because there was all s*** over it. Since we did that, the bike is so much more responsive, the lights do not flicker with a twist of the throttle and it starts so much more easily.

tirostef20

I had the exact same issue with my VFR. The low beam relay was making a wierd noise, the bike would not keep running without my thumb on the starter switch, and if I used my indicators or high beams it would kill the bike off completely.

Hi Guys, I am hoping this may help some of you who are struggling. I have got a 2003 VFR 800 Vtec (non ABS).

I did something similar to Kanadian Ken, instead of bypassing the earth at the two ends of the connectors, I cut the ground cable (green at the back of the relay) and joined it with the blue block (the left hand part), it got the bike to keep running and everything was working fine from then on.

I was fortunate enough to have a friend come over and check the bike out for me, luckily he knew a lot more about bikes than I do. We took the nose off of the bike (really easy, theres like 4 bolts), we disconnected the front wiring loom, and checked resistance on the loom, it was reading 63.7 ohms!

Within that front loom, there is a yellow terminal block that has about 16 green cables in there, what I had found was that on the terminal block where the main earth cable comes from the main loom, it had burnt. I rang Honda to enquire about any outstanding recalls on the bike, they said there weren't any, guess they lied.

Any how, to resolve the issue, cut all of the cables from the yellow terminal block and solder the cables together, then simply wrap it back up in the loom. The yellow block loops the cables back round to the main loom anyway, as there is a thin metal strip thing the over side, that just terminates the connections, I also noticed that this was quite gunky, it was obvious that the block had got damp, then got hot because there was all s*** over it. Since we did that, the bike is so much more responsive, the lights do not flicker with a twist of the throttle and it starts so much more easily.

Front wiring loom ? Hmmm not sure what your talking about. The one that goes to the gage assembly or the head lights ?

[image: 3200C.png]

Hi,

thank you for this blue connector fix. Saved my Day & Money!

vfr800 vtec Bj 2002 German Version.

:cheerleader:

thx

Heiko

jbackus4 Hi All, I'm in a similar situation right now. I have a 2002 VFR non abs, and this time I decided to visit my local Honda dealer for my yearly inspection. Inspection passed. Then they did a VIN check and discovered that both the wiring harness and the PCV valve recalls had not yet been performed. Parts were ordered so I took the bike home and returned it the next week. The PCV valve checked OK but, per Honda, they replaced the wiring harness. When I picked up the bike, a tech asked me when the low beam lights stopped working. He explained that the low beam lights were not working but the high beams were and said it shouldn't have anything to do with the wiring harness that was replaced. He suspected a faulty switch set which I've ordered and may install myself. I asked to see the old wiring harness and I took some pictures which I've attached here. After reading the recall notice, downloaded from VFRD (thank you!!), I was able to determine that no additional wiring harness replacements were necessary (no scorched connectors). I also inspected the old harness for any possible alterations (blue connector fix) that previous owners of my bike might have performed. There didn't seem to be any alterations. My questions are, (1) could the new wiring harness and install of the new wiring harness affect the low beam lights and (2) would you suggest I have the dealer install the new switch set or take the chance of doing it myself, having it not fix the low beam problem and risk having the dealer point blame on me for the continued electrical problem, if one still exists. Thank you in advance, JRB

IF the dealer is messing with your wiring harness under a warranty / recall situation - have them do the repair to the low beams. Installing the switch set shouldn't take long - even if you have to pay the half hour of labour.

I think I'm going to do just that, have them install it even though they quoted me 1 full hour labor to install. Thanks for your input!

JRB

Q-Dawg

Hey KKKen,

Cool fix for the blue connector. Just curious if you also ended up doing anything with the yellow 'master' ground block (mentioned in your BLUE CONNECTOR thread) as well.....

I just finished upgrading my electrical wiring today, but haven't done any voltage testing yet to see what things are running like. BIke was not having any problems and no heat indications on the 30A fuse.

My connectors all looked remarkably good, with only a slight bit of oxidation on the odd terminal. I inpected, scruffed these fresh and put dielectric grease in everything.

On my connections and splices, I used buttonhook or but joints that were soldered, painted with brush on electrical tape (I love this stuff!), then heat shrinked and / or electrical taped.

Will post my findings and some pictures in another thread when I have time.....

Just thought I would inquire about the yellow ground block, since I have done nothing with mine yet. I'm waiting until I install my auxillary fuse block (I wanted to wait on this and do some testing with just the regular harness upgrades first), then I will rip apart the nose end of the bike to do some other mods (rewire heated grips and install Stebel.)

P.S. Did your Stebel come with much for instructions? Not sure how to wire my relay yet.

Excellent photo's and Easy fix Thanks!

Hi all.Thanx for all the help. There is also a white earth connector block near the battery but runs next to the engine just before the wire's split to the tailights/battery and feul level plugs. after a long search i found that it also had made a bad connection witch lead to the battery not charging.

Back again and still struggling, when the low beam headlight relay is plugged out and my vfr idle's the voltage stays on 12.5 volts rev is up to 5000rpm it goes up to 13.2Volts. When the relay is plugged back in the charge goes away and the battery drains away. With the R/R unplugged the red wires test 19.8volts and plugged in without the headlight relay it goes down to12.5 volts. The stators disconected test 4.5V,11.4V and 19.5V is the stator faulty? It also gets hot when plugged in... :wacko: (ps all the earth block are soldered so no bad earth connections)

Please HELP

Lennie03

Back again and still struggling, when the low beam headlight relay is plugged out and my vfr idle's the voltage stays on 12.5 volts rev is up to 5000rpm it goes up to 13.2Volts. When the relay is plugged back in the charge goes away and the battery drains away. With the R/R unplugged the red wires test 19.8volts and plugged in without the headlight relay it goes down to12.5 volts. The stators disconected test 4.5V,11.4V and 19.5V is the stator faulty? It also gets hot when plugged in... :wacko: (ps all the earth block are soldered so no bad earth connections)

Please HELP

Bad stator, 4.5Vac reading is wrong. Replace stator,R\R and the connectors .

Ok thanx will do so

Ok everything is replaced but still no luck. Only when te lights are not coneccted does the battery charge

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

New battery ?

And does it have HID headlights ?

Also new battery and standard lights

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

New Honda stator? New Honda R\R? Any electrical add-ons?

All vfr parts and no add-ons

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

Your gonna have to follow the headlite wires and look for a burnt wire or melted wire.And the check the headlite relay.

Thanx will do and report back

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Thanx

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

Hey guys, this is the problem I encounter with my VFR 2002 non-ABS (french version).

At 30 000 km (around 18 600 + miles), engine fan died, I had it replaced. I told the mechanic about the R/R problem, he told me he checked at the battery & for him there was no problem with it, the voltage was correct.

Then 2 weeks later, (after going high in the revs - around 10 000 rpm - which may have cause the problem), the 20 A. fuse linked to the new fan burnt...

The mechanic told me I have a short circuit somewhere or a similar kind of electrical problem... That he looked but did not find anything. And that I may experience a new problem anytime... Or not...

For him, the solution is to inspect or/ change the entire electrical wiring... Ouch...

I will try KanadianKen fix and will tell you if it has work... If anybody has an advice for me, I'd be happy to hear it... Thank you

Hi Switchblade. I studied the wire diagram and stripped the harnass open. I found that the wire marked (E) coming out of the righthand fusebox (brouwn/Blue) somehow grounds somewhere even if everything is plugged out any advise?

AlainReunion

That he looked but did not find anything.

Yes, because he does not own nor know how to use a SHORT DETECTOR which would tell HIM where the problem lies. This guy will never find anything. The old "wholesale swap" is used by such people.

The good news is you seem to have a link of the fan fuse and the fan. That's the same circuit. It is not like he has to check the entire bike yet. If you can inspect the fan wiring, perhaps you may find a damaged section, obvious bare wire or burnt area? An area near a previous repair which may have gotten nicked in the process? Hopefully he didn't just reconnect a melted connector to the fan, did he?

Lennie03

Hi Switchblade. I studied the wire diagram and stripped the harnass open. I found that the wire marked (E) coming out of the righthand fusebox (brouwn/Blue) somehow grounds somewhere even if everything is plugged out any advise?

Follow the wire and look for burnt wires touching .

Many thanks for this Knight, not many bike mechanics are based in Reunion island, and mine was recommended by a friend who has the red VFR (see my profile picture). He leads a team of mechanics from a Kawasaki, Yamaha dealership. The Honda dealer here has a (very) bad reputation... You are certainly right, he most probably does not have a short detector. I will check with him though. However, looking at this video on youtube (car wiring harness), it looks like you have to take out the wiring harness to find where the problem is with such tool, which is exactly what he told me. Is that right ? I'm an OK rider but a very very bad mechanic, my skills are very poor. What he told me was he did inspect the wires he could see, especially the fan ones... And did not see anything wrong... From what I understood, the connector was not melted, it's just the fuse that "went off". I will clarify the information I got from him and will give him your advice / ideas to and will feedback the forum

French 6th Gens VFRs did not get the recall. Is that because there is no such thing as class actions as you have in the US ? R/R problems are known by french 6th Gen VFR riders... Are the models "different" ? Who the fu.. knows. KanadianKen fix will be tried in 2 days... Will let you know.

I love my VFR, it's just an unreal bike. But next time she breaks down, I'm gone. I Had a 2002 CBR 600F before, only issue was a dead speedometer, that was it. It had more kms thought (50 000 kms) and had been really well maintained but the 2 previous owners.

Knight

AlainReunion

That he looked but did not find anything.

Yes, because he does not own nor know how to use a SHORT DETECTOR which would tell HIM where the problem lies. This guy will never find anything. The old "wholesale swap" is used by such people.

The good news is you seem to have a link of the fan fuse and the fan. That's the same circuit. It is not like he has to check the entire bike yet. If you can inspect the fan wiring, perhaps you may find a damaged section, obvious bare wire or burnt area? An area near a previous repair which may have gotten nicked in the process? Hopefully he didn't just reconnect a melted connector to the fan, did he?

AlainReunion

Many thanks for this Knight, not many bike mechanics are based in Reunion island, and mine was recommended by a friend who has the red VFR (see my profile picture). He leads a team of mechanics from a Kawasaki, Yamaha dealership. The Honda dealer here has a (very) bad reputation... You are certainly right, he most probably does not have a short detector. I will check with him though. However, looking at this video on youtube (car wiring harness), it looks like you have to take out the wiring harness to find where the problem is with such tool, which is exactly what he told me. Is that right ? I'm an OK rider but a very very bad mechanic, my skills are very poor. What he told me was he did inspect the wires he could see, especially the fan ones... And did not see anything wrong... From what I understood, the connector was not melted, it's just the fuse that "went off". I will clarify the information I got from him and will give him your advice / ideas to and will feedback the forum

French 6th Gens VFRs did not get the recall. Is that because there is no such thing as class actions as you have in the US ? R/R problems are known by french 6th Gen VFR riders... Are the models "different" ? Who the fu.. knows. KanadianKen fix will be tried in 2 days... Will let you know.

I love my VFR, it's just an unreal bike. But next time she breaks down, I'm gone. I Had a 2002 CBR 600F before, only issue was a dead speedometer, that was it. It had more kms thought (50 000 kms) and had been really well maintained but the 2 previous owners.

Others have to chime in with specific help. Do you have the factory service manual? It is available in the download section. Any members here near you?

Note that a fuse blowing always means a massive current flowed through the circuit. They never pop randomly but there is always a reason.

You have hit on something key and I think this is why used VFRs are reasonably priced despite being a superstars: It is an extraordinarily labor intensive bike. A lot of these VFR owners work on their own bikes. I rely on mechanics. I fix computer systems all day long, so working on my bike would probably kill me.

Do not put yourself down. You don't have to be a mechanic. The motorcycle fills different roles for different people. Some love tinkering but some, like me just want to turn the key and ride. I enjoy reading the Keith Code books, magazines, studying riding, then applying the lessons on the street. Someone else can fix it.

You should understand that given your bike's age, several electrical components will need attention. Someone Honda certified or who knows VFRs should proactively clean and inspect all of the switches, wiring, and connections. When the electrical is maintained, the bike will go many miles. As you can see from your CBR, good maintenance is extremely valuable. It is just that 7-10 years of age have corroded a lot of the switches and connectors, so they run hotter, and will cause problems if not inspected, and cleaned or repaired. While Honda takes a lot of criticism, I think problems are pretty universal and due to poor maintenance.

The other option is trading up to a newer bike. Also, inline 4's, and certain naked models can be much easier to maintain. But nothing truly compares to the VFR for overall fun, comfort, and performance. I am rooting for you to find a solution.

Thanks again Knight. I'll give a few more info, that may be useful to others too.

After having my fan replaced, one morning, rides 15' to meet up with my buddy for a day ride... Turns ignition off, says hello, ... 5' later tries to start it, for ½ sec. or less all seems good, then she dies, with - if I remember well - a little noise. Then, nothing, she's dead. I turn the key but nothing is happening. As if there was 0 V, no battery at all in my VFR... 15' later II try another time, and miracle, she restarts, as if nothing happened.. This problem never reappeared since...

A bit of history, my silver VFR had at least 3 different owners. One of them had had a computer fan installed on the lower side (left) of the dashboard. This, I believe, to cool off the R/R. The girl I bought it from (who brought the bike back from France to Reunion island) told me she took it off because she thought it was useless.

One previous owner lived in the Alps, where winters are long and snow can be heavy... This may explain the low mileage, not necessarily a good thing a mechanic told me once (that is, better more mileage & better maintenance than the opposite).I don't have the bike history, nor the printed user manual, nor the tools (yet).

What you say is really useful (and clear). Also, we are alike, I take great joy in improving my riding skills, trying to ride better, faster, safer. And what I enjoy most : getting more pleasure, more emotions.

After my CBR 600 F, changed to a 2010 BMW R1200R. Once I tried my buddy's red VFR (with laser exhausts...), got hooked. My 1200 R seemed like flat (!). Felt less fun, less pleasure, having less emotions. Not 20% less, 60 % less... 1st time I sat on his VFR, I thought there was a fighter jet engine under me... And in the revs', my... Well, I felt like I was 25 again... Could not take the smile off my face. It's like, a bit, a nice cup of (smooooooth) champagne, compared to a glass of apple juice... Even if (before repairs...) I could have bought 2 VFRs and still have some change left in my pocket after selling the BM...

VFR is fun on roads like this one :cool:

Life is strange. Did you bring me luck ? I met somebody through my work, a VFR 5th Gen owner, living in the same city. 1. He had the same message as yours : don't sell your bike, you'd make a mistake. 2. He was skilled and happy to help, and told me he'd do just that :

Someone (...) who knows VFRs should proactively clean and inspect all of the switches, wiring, and connections.

Will keep updates of progress towards a healthy bike (not the case now..)

This is a summary of possible solutions I found on the forum related to electrical problems (not necessarily mines) on VFR’s 6th Gen :

• First verify the battery is good

• Check all connectors and ground. Make sure the grounds are touching metal

• Check the lower connector on the right side (post #74 on p.8 of « Vtec electrical problems info post »). if needed, rewire

• Check if the harness does not rub through the protective cover (insulation) and short out against the bike

• Clean everything with contact cleaner, and use dielectric grease. For the ground connections - especially those in the engine compartment where the ground leads are fastened to aluminum surfaces like the intake manifold, use one of the conductive greases like OxGuard (aim : sealing the terminals against oxidation which creates a high resistance barrier and moisture and dirt which can result in shorts and ground paths)

• Check wires are not hot

• Check your stator outputs on all three phases + check resistance as well as see if any of the 3 are "communicating" that is, short circuiting between them... the specs are in the workshop manual

• Check if stator-R/R connector is OK. If yes, cut out the connector from the equation and hardwire stator to R/R

• Replace stator & R/R

• Install a new 30 amp fuse connection

• Connector bypass with thicker wire (RE : Kanadian Ken fix) + likely improvement (see post #76 on p.8 of « Vtec electrical problems info post »)

• Monitor Wire fix (also Kanadian Ken, name of the topic on the forum : « 6th Gen Monitor Wire Fix »)

• 30amp Fuse Wires fix (1st page of « Vtec electrical problems info post » on the forum), to fix a wire going to the starter that is carrying too much current for its size

• Do a mod/upgrade to fix any under or overcharging problems, and improve the Regulator/Rectifier (R/R) to battery charging wires and grounds

• Rip the bike apart to rewire everything, so that your R/R is getting an accurate read on the voltage hitting your system so it doesn't overcharge and blow electronics

• In the same vein, something similar (?), install « VFRness » with Accessory Fuse box

• Also, set idle when warm at 1400-1500. (post 95)

AlainReunion

Also, set idle when warm at 1400-1500. (post 95)

Great post! It is cool to hear that you enjoyed the VFR so much more than the BMW.

I found post #95 regarding idle, and I found some info that the bike tachometer might read too low. If you can borrow a tachometer or a Power Commander you can check the bike tachometer's accuracy.

You will want to tune the starter valves which involves setting the idle. This procedure sets the idle vacuum for 3 of the 4 cylinders. It requires a 4-column manometer or 4 separate gauges. This procedure assures the smoothest idle and throttle response.

Also, check the cold idle RPM and temperature against the manual to make sure the wax idle unit is warming the bike up properly.

Great news on finding a VFR friend. I don't know, I had a strong feeling there was someone right around you. Weird huh? :cool: I wonder if your new friend is on this forum? If not maybe he'll join!

I love paper manuals myself, so I picked up a used factory service manual on ebay and a Honda Common Service manual at HelmInc. The Common Service manual is general talk about Honda systems. I think it is very cool, but it is not bike specific.

Switchblade

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Lennie03

Switchblade

Hi found the culprit at last. The new stator was bad so i had my old one rewound and it works 100% ever with the old R/R. The new stator didn't give enough amps thru to charge when the lights was on

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Wow that's crazy that a new VFR stator was bad!

Jip and no return on elecrical parts is SA

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Just wanted to feedback the forum. Since KanadianKen fix done more than 1 month ago, I rode more than 1300 km (800 + miles) and did not have one problem. I have yet to clean and inspect all of the switches, wiring, and connections (it is planned). But it seems, so far so good. Will let you guys know of any further issue linked to that should they arise. Thanks to all of you :happy:

Lennie03

Switchblade

Hi found the culprit at last. The new stator was bad so i had my old one rewound and it works 100% ever with the old R/R. The new stator didn't give enough amps thru to charge when the lights was on

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Sweet ah I guess at least now you can plan on a ride .

Also did the bridge across the blue plug for the green wire , then decided to check voltage drops and all electrical issues ... O boy , was I in for a surprise....

My headlight voltage measured ON THE CONNECTOR was 9.5 Volts with all 4 headlight on.

The fuelpump fuse basically melted and the plug on that line  that goes to the battery also gets very hot and the plug that goes in vertically just behind the battery also has one connection that was getting so hot it melted the side of the plug.

I had a voltage drop of 0.8 volts to headlights just on earth side. I have now run 4 DECENT 20 Amp plus  wires from battery directly to EACH headlight earthside and also to the frame in front .

Also 2 DECENT 20 amp plus wires to the low beam and high beam into bottom of connector for those relays. Now headlight voltage is back to 13.4 Volts with battery at 13.5Volts , DECENT lights eventually.

REMEMBER to remove the headlight fuse from fusebox otherwise bike ignition stays on. cos it seems that all the positive wires runs via ignition . I am very sure it could have been done much different .

will do some more repairs on those weak fuse holders.

Well... My bike "died" tonight. Just after refuelling, I started it. It worked for 3 seconds. Then turned off. Even the time shut down on the LCD, as if the bike had no battery was connected. Just like last time, except it stayed like that... I connected an external battery to my battery to start it. Nada. Nothing... So, I'll take it the garage and will let you know the verdict. Most probably he'll tell me I have a problem with the harness... Had I clean and inspect all of the switches, wiring, and connections... this would probably not have happened...  :blush:  Knight was certainly right...

Knight, 8 mars 2016 at 9:53 PM

7-10 years of age have corroded a lot of the switches and connectors, so they run hotter, and will cause problems if not inspected, and cleaned or repaired

My mechanic is good. He'll find the problem. However, if it's the harness, he won't fix it... So I'll have to ask my buddy for help. But he told my finding the problem involves ripping the bike apart. So a few days work... Hum...

I am sorry to hear about this. Note that many of us have been stranded, and of course are rooting for you.

How many miles have you put on since the last repair?

Possibly cheaper and easier to just replace the entire harnesses and have peace of mind??

I swapped the front one out for a new one that I improved before installing it for ease or comfort of working on it on a bench instead of on the bike.

Bike is up & running. Thanks guys. :happy:  Short circuit was located under (& linked to) the « neiman » as we say in France, that is, the part in which you put the key in. Mechanic told me a connection was corroded. Took them 3 ½ hours of work to inspect, find & repair. (which translated into a 220 USD invoice...). Quite long I thought. He answered they had to take off the tank, etc. , and also try the bike & recheck during the work, hence the time. 

The thing is, they did not check every connection, switch and wiring, everywhere (this would take them much longer time wise ; 2 or 3 times as long ? I don't know).

What I'm thinking is that, as one of my connection was corroded, why another one, somewhere (where they did not look), would not be corroded (or starting to be…) ?   :unsure:

So, I asked him how long it could take them to change the entire harness ; he answered 7 / 8 hours. I would like to ask the forum for advice. Do you guys think I should get a new harness and invest the money to have it replaced ? Other solution, I can stay like that & hope all is going to remain fine. Until, maybe, another problem (like this I guess) appears...

I do it all myself so it's just the cost of the parts... and my time.

Disheartened... Got stranded, one more time, today. Nearly the same story as last time, just that it died just before engine ignition. Dead. Nothing. So, getting gasoline and a match is an option...  :mad:  Or,(e I can give it to somebody (better). Or maybe (even better, maybe) change the whole harness. Hum...

It's the VFR's weak point. If it is economically viable for you I would whack an entire new wiring harness in and enjoy the bike. Paying by the hour for mechanics to hunt for a needle in a haystack will surely cost you more, even if they are good with a multi-meter, which many aren't.

Of course this is just my modest, humble and amateur opinion. Not a guarantee.

Thank you for your help. This is what I'm going to do : get a VFRness and have it installed (+ the Starter Relay Repair Kit, as my cables near the battery look like they heated up a little bit). I'll also ask my mechanic also to put some Ox Guard on all connexions etc. Any advice to help me have a bike that will not broke down again would be welcome ! Should I ask him to check or to check something else ? He told my my R/R was fine.

So, this is how my story with Honda will end. I will not burn the bike. Just will get rid of it, the quicker the better.

Bike looks amazing. Feels amazing… But does not work. It’s a jewel outside, a diamond when you’re on it (when it works). But inside, it’s full of shit. 

Sorry to hear about your bad experiences Alain. If you were still looking for a new wiring harness here is one for about US175 that is new.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/electrics/auction-1166275868.htm

I have two brand new wiring hardness I will let go for 30 dollars each. They came with the bike which is an 02. That is almost half price.

 http://www.wiremybike.com/vfr-specific-parts-2002-2009-vfr-parts-2002-2009-vfrness-p-266.html     

AlainReunion, 22/09/2016 at 2:57 AM

So, this is how my story with Honda will end. I will not burn the bike. Just will get rid of it, the quicker the better.

Bike looks amazing. Feels amazing… But does not work. It’s a jewel outside, a diamond when you’re on it (when it works). But inside, it’s full of shit. 

After months of consulting and research, many thanks to Auspanglish, to Knight, to friends, to my mechanics, to the forum, to the Internet & to Honda dealers here and elsewhere… this is what I concluded :   - Wire harness is fucked up ; too complicated / impossible / too time consuming to fix. Bike works now, but is just waiting to fail. Not if. When.   - Solution 1.: change the wiring harness with a new one.  But, Honda does not make it anymore. Of course, this is understandable, as this part did not have any recall, ever. It was flawless, perfect… (reality : some countries like the US and Canada got the recall for a harness problem. Others, like France, no). Being ironic again, it must be because the harness in bikes sold in France (and in other smaller countries) was perfect !   - Solution 2. : change the wiring harness with a second-hand one Would be easy. Just that it looks nearly impossible to find, anywhere… (False, found one on Ebay, "2002-2009", specific year not specified, goes at 358 USD with shipping, a detail), And oh, version differs according to countries it seems... Why make things simple when you can make it otherwise. And of course, it’s a quick fix, changing a harness, just ½ hour work. Quick easy and cheap.   What I could end up with  : a bike with a « new » harness that (may) work. Until… the RR fucks up… the strator fucks up…   And oh, my bike makes a shit noise at idle ; been told it’s normal (and complicated to fix)   Bye Honda. I’m gone. Forever

Hello I'm having similar issues but you can get the wiring much cheaper I bought one for 39£ in Ebay. I will use it to make the upgrades outside the bike like ground blue connection fix RR reading cable etc and keep my original wiring for spares. A VFRness will also be mounted. Here in Portugal Honda does not recognize recall issues for wiring only for the dual cbs issue. I guess the changed the wiring at the border right?!... Don't give up on this bike,  I had several Alfa Romeo trust me those had electrical mysteries. VFR the issues are known and we can solve them.

The noise at idle: Search this site and youtube for audio of a bad vfr800 cam chain tensioner. Does the sound match what you are hearing? Or record your bike and post a Youtube video here for others to examine.

A 2002 needs cam chain tensioners periodically, right around your mileage of 28,000 miles. If that is the problem, it is standard maintenance and it is not the end of the world. 

Can't see any if the pictures?

Do the electrical gremlins in this post also occur in a 2010 VTEC of did Honda fix them?

Love to see the pictures. Not a message from photobucket. Any chance? Love the site. Trygve in Australia.

Honda replaced my front harness under warranty free after 16 years of not doing so. It’s always worth a call to the dealer. 

Urbanengineer Honda replaced my front harness under warranty free after 16 years of not doing so. It’s always worth a call to the dealer. 

I live in the USA!

[image: 12CD8CBD-E371-4010-8634-E54F746BB388.jpeg]

Richie,

It's worth asking at a dealership.

It is improved but it still has a weak link which I encourage everyone to apply a fix to. It's a crappy common ground connector in that front subharness which the only difference this component has being it's orange instead of yellow... and it was orange on the 5th gen and the 5th gen ones fail significantly less often but Sod knows why.

Look on the site for Kentucky Fried Connector or BYC where I explain my fix for the 6th gen one... There's even a thread by vfrkanuk called Eurethra or something to that effect where he explains his fix for the 5th gen one when it failed on him...

richiegHi Urbanenginner

Where do you live? I'm from the UK and Honda don't know anything about a harness recall. I solved my electrical problems using the blue connector fix but would prefer a replacement harness if it's improved...

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Here are the links to the two threads I mentioned. I highly recommend you do this fix.

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?url=https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/forums/topic/62525-faulty-ground-connector/&share_tid=62525&share_fid=35196&share_type=t

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?url=https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/forums/topic/66045-urethra-i-found-it/&share_tid=66045&share_fid=35196&share_type=t